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@madconvictions-blog
Louvre-- thanks to art looting in times of war
After visiting the Louvre, in particular the Etruscan section, I realized just how grave of an issue art looting really is. The museum, can't possibly tackled in one day, let alone the couple of hours that we decided to devote to it. Of the 15 plus wings, we made it through two. The Etruscans (native to the middle regions of Italy) and the Egyptians. Thanks to Napoleon, Paris has a better collection of Etruscan art than any Italian museum. I left pissed off, understanding that it happened in a different era, but angry that the art hadn't been returned to its homeland even after so many years. Why haven't countries fought harder to repatriate stolen masterpieces?
PARIGI!
Second day in Paris. Just popped a cappucino macarone in my mouth. It's made of eggwhites, sugar and almond flour. And the middle is ganache (a chocolate sauce with hot milk stirred into it).
To get to Paris with a Ryanair flight, you have to fly to Beauvais, which is about an hour outside of Paris. Then you take a handy bus to the city center where they plop you down at the metro station. I was quite proud of myself having gotten onto the metro, going the right way, when some french guys in yellow suits told everyone to get off at the next stop. There I was, mapless, with no french, and no option 2 to get to Kristine's apartment. I stopped a french man, who wagged his finger at my english, and asked him how to get to Bastille. He rambled off some french directions, with some english words stuck randomly in, and then grabbed my elbow and started walking me towards the escalator. I didn't know how to ask what was happening so I decided to just go with it. He ended up taking me on another metro with him that got me directly to Kristine. She was waiting behind the exit doors, arms outstretched and ready for a big hug!
Kristine's neighborhood, Bastille, was my first Parisian experience. It was like a french las vegas, with neon lights buzzing from kebab joints, indian restaurants, and french brasseries. The streets mumbled in French and Arabic. And nestled into the doorways of closed banks and clothing shops, gypsy families set up camp for the night, laying out their mattresses and constructing their tents. We grabbed a kebab to go and went up to Kristine's apartment to eat and catch up! It had been nearly a year since we had seen each other!
The weekend was jam-packed with sights and events, so I've set apart just a few that I especially don't want to forget--
Cafe Divan - French Onion Soup, Salad with arugula, pesto olive oil dressing, toast drilled with honey with a round herbed goat cheese atop. They served tap water! And there is no sit down fee in France! What a treat!
Marais- The jewish quarter and gay neighborhood combined. These manicured streets, with high class coffee shops and brasseries, contemporary art galleries and clothing boutiques is where I would live in Paris.
Kristine's French cheeses and wine party in her high class closet of an apartment- packed like pickles, Kristine and I, with 9 over her best friends, listened to old french music, and ate stinky cheeses, quiche lorraine with ham and cheese, cherry tomatoes, and french pastries. I got to know two of her friends, Lionel from Paris, and a girl from Spanish whose name is slipping me. We also discussed the film, Drive, which has apparently become a cult classic in France. I felt slightly stupid when they guys started talking about the soundtrack genre, Italo-electro, which I had never heard of. I found out later, talking to Italian friends, that most Italians don't know what it is either because it isn't popular here. Italians are much more pop-y or rocky on the whole. Any electronic music made here is sustained by the French and the Germans. Interesting stuff.
Montmare, with its Taj Mahal like church up on the hill overlooking the city. The winding cobble streets are punctuated by Boulangeries (bakeries) with crossants, èclairs, pain au chocolat, mille feiulle cakes, brioche with apples, apricots, or rhubarb. Windmills dazzle the passing tourists, while formageries (cheese shops) offer them eye burningly stinkly cheeses. On our way down the hill, we paused to see the cafe where Amelie worked, and to take pictures in front of the Moulin Rouge.
Arc d'Triomphe- it marks the center of a round about from which radiate the boulevards of the city, including the widest and most famous, the Champs-Elysées. The arc, is also known as the L’etoile, because of the star-like effect created by the surrounding streets. From the windy viewpoint, we were able to see the whole city, including the marathon taking place on the Champs-Elysées. All of the runners were clad in blue panchos.
Walking down the Champs-Elysées we stopped to get Macarons at the place where they were said to have been invented, Ladurèe. The flavors ranged from classic; pistacchio, raspberry, cappuccino, chocolate; to more original-- rose petal, orange blossom, black currant, salted caramel. We also passed by what looked like a palace, complete with black and gold oversized gates, pruned hedges and pink tulips. A mob of people collected behind a security guard, anxiously awaiting the turn to enter the store with another privileged few. The store, you ask? Abercrombie and Fitch. Apparently its popularity stems from the fact that originally a garmet from A&F meant that one had been to the US, and thus demonstrated a certain level of social and economic status.
Last lunch in Paris- escargot in a mushroom and cream sauce. The restaurant was famous for Southwestern French specialties.
Mesa Verde, Colorado
Talking about Native Americans with an Italian
Today I discussed Mesa Verde (anasazi ruins in Colorado) with one of my students. She is the director of the region of Tuscany's cultural sites, museums and events and it seemed pertinent to watch a video about the history of one of my country's cultural treasures. But what left me shocked was that the first and only man to take an interest in the ruins, was a not American, but Dutch. And when he tried to sell the 100 artifacts that he had taken (at that time it was allowed) he was unable to find a buyer. He ended up selling them to a museum in Finland, where they remain to this day. These events got me thinking about Americans' view of their own history. Was it the fact that they didn't have ancestors rooted to the land itself that has caused their complete disinterest in it? Italians have experienced mass immigrations and been subject to foreign rulers, but their connection with the land is something innate for them, and the protection of its history, unquestionably important. What is it about Americans that leads Americans to go into an Etruscan museum in Italy, but shy away from entering a Native American one in Walla Walla? Is the issue one of race relations that stems from the colonization of the land, or does it have to do with the fact that we were essentially a transplanted people?
When Italians discuss American history, they scoff at the fact that the American conception starts with the colonization. They find it inconceivable that we know little about Native American culture, and even more shocking that we exclude it so freely. And it is shocking when you start to think about it.. that we, as a nation, define ourselves not by the traditions of our ancestors in Europe, nor the land that we live on, but rather by an abstract concept of independence (or even an extreme aversion to being told what to do)
Piero della Francesca's depiction of the Resurrection, Sansepolcro Italy
Pasqua, the resurrection of my interest in religion
This past weekend was Pasqua (Easter), quite easily the most important holiday in Catholic Italy. To celebrate, Antonio and I went to visit his mom and her boyfriend in a small town between Assisi and Perugia. Friday night we went to see the procession in Assisi. I couldn't help but think of the Ku Klux Klan when I saw all of the walkers dressed in white gowns with coned heads, and the flaming crosses jabbed into the lawns of common homes. But, that association is a testament to my own religious ignorance.
We watched as 15 life-sized crucifix crosses were marched into the lower church, followed by the Madonna, dressed in mourning. On our way home, we passed houses with tea light candles lining the streets where the procession had passed. Even the Fiat car lot had shown their respect..
On Easter sunday, we had the neighbors over for dinner. The wife is Japanese, the husband from Umbria. They have two children, both quite young, the youngest out of control. Most of the lunch he spit out food that he didn't like, made animal sounds, and ran around the table. Alba cooked traditional Pasqua dishes. Pigeon, which I ended up trying but not liking much, was one of the meats. It was dark in color, and tasted funky to me. The lamb, on the other had, was incredible. There were some bones that she had deep fried in crumbs with herbs which were super moist inside and crazy delicious. And the rest was over cooked and equally yummy. Then we had gatto, which is cheesy potato puree cooked in the oven. Then there were artichokes, cheese bread, bread in the shape of doves, lasagne, and straggly, wild asparagus filled manicotti. For dessert we had the traditional dove shaped desert (normally it is like a sweet orange bread) but alba did a different kind that was pink and had a sweet liquorice flavor. And of course, we had perugina eggs. There were HUGE with plastic container of baci inside and a key chain.
In the afternoon, we went to a town nearby and watched the recreation of the moment when Mary sees the resurrected Jesus. The priests form two groups, one holding a statue of a queenly Mary dressed in a white, bejeweled gown, and one of a billowing Jesus, holding his white flag triumphantly. The two groups walk towards each other and when the two statues are near, the bow towards one another. Not all that eventful, but the discussion that arose afterwards was. Antonio explained that sometimes, once in a blue moon, the priests drop the statues for whatever reason, and this means a year of bad luck for the city. A curse really. Then he showed me this youtube video (see next post) and I couldn't help but crack up at the absurdity of the crowd's reaction.
So I was wrong.. Saffron doesn't come from just any crocus. It comes from the Saffron Crocus, that looks like this...
Stamping horses, purple crocus and a town called Brenna
Its been a while. Happy to be back a tumblin.
Yesterday, Antonio and I went to the countryside to visit Antonio's cousin and girlfriend, Armando and Marielena. It was a quick ride from my point of view-- I crashed on Antonio's lap when the discussion turned to architecture, and woke up as we were pulling up the gravel drive. The ghost town where Armando has lived for the past month, would be completely deserted were it not for the massive pharmaceutical plant 5 minutes down the road. His apartment has a small kitchen and bathroom and a nice sized bedroom with a window overlooking a chicken yard with hens and white geese. Armando demonstrates his disgust of the birds by throwing them food scraps doused in Calabrian red pepper oil. I attempted to start an animal activist rampage against this practice when I saw it myself, but for the sake of being a respectful guest, I looked on unapprovingly and kept to myself.
An hour outside of Siena, Brenna, is neither a destination, nor a pit stop.. the towns inhabitants keep to themselves, coming out only to drape their sheets on sunny afternoons, or get into their cars on the way to work. Apparently in the summer, however, when it hot, people from all over the regione come to bath in the creek and hike in adjacent woods. It was hot yesterday so we did a miniature hike ourselves. While we didn't see any wildlife, there were purple crocus blooms breaking through the mass of dead leaf cover. I told everyone that saffron comes from the inner stigmas that a orangish red in color, but maybe I'm wrong. I need to do some research on that..
We also saw hairy chestnut balls scattered along the path, fallen pine cones, and rich red soil. Ribby horses eyed us curiously as we huffed up the hill. At the top, we sat for a bit. The girlfriends watched the boys as they played baseball with a twig and some pinecones. I find that when we do couple activities, the boys end up doing one task while girls wait around or clean up. Like the other night, all the guys went up to the bar to get Whiskey shots for St. Patty's Day and left all the ladies to finger their nails and check nonexistent text messages. Anyways, all in all, the day was good. We ate Marilena's creations-- lasagna, white beans, a chocolate cake with almond nut chunks. Before each dish she told us how she has messed it up regally, and then explained how her mom had taught her the perfect recipe.
I've attached some pictures from Brenna, including the nearby stream.
Arnold Boecklin's famous interpretation of the British Cemetery of Florence. 'Island of the dead' 1883