Last weekend was quite an incredible time, all thanks to my MEF placement the previous week. I was assigned to check out translation equipment along with Bilguun, a senior international management student at MIU (Mongolian International University). After working together for 2 days, she proposed to me something of an adventure: a trip to her hometown of Darkhan, the 3rd largest city in Mongolia. I was incredibly touched by her offer and jumped at the chance to get outside UB and see the Mongolian countryside. Early Saturday morning, Bilguun, Nara, and two of their Chinese friends, Song jia and Shu, picked me up and we headed to Darkhan, stopping innumerable times along the way. The Mongolian countryside was just as I had expected--barren yet beautiful, dotted with horses and herders.
In Darkhan, we were greeted by a beautiful spread prepared by Bilguun’s mom (even vegetarian items were on the menu!) After feasting, we set out to explore the city and managed to see all the major sites (the Morin khuur statue, Golden Buddha and bridge, as well as a local monastery). Despite being the third largest city in the country, Darkhan is a mere fraction of the size of Ulaanbaatar, with around 75,000 residents to UB’s 1.4 million.
I mentioned that I had never slept in a ger, so we decided to do so for the night and drove up to Selenge, a border-province, passing through forests and deserts and stopping at all the minor attractions along the way. The further north we drove, the more pronounced the Russian influence was, as it made more sense to import items from Russia, rather than send them up from UB. By the time we made it to Saihani Hutul, it was getting quite late so we cooked dinner on our traditional stove, took a walk through the nearby forest, and played card games from our respective countries into the night.
I should probably mention a few things. First the ger was incredibly warm and cozy. Secondly--and more surprisingly to me--the ger camp lacked indoor plumbing. Let’s just say it was truly an authentic experience, from the traditional music we listened to on the drive, to the traditional outhouse that I had to get accustomed to for the night. (I would complain more, but as Oyumaa later mentioned to me, over a million Americans lack indoor plumbing, with a majority residing in my home state of Arizona, not to mention the fact that I’m Indian and India is notorious for its lack of restroom facilities)
The next day was really exquisite as well--we drove to the Russian border and climbed up a mountain from which we had a panoramic view of both countries’ terrain. It was definitely one of the most unexpected little trips--and views I had ever come across.
After taking a fair dose of photographs, we headed back toward Darkhan, first stopping at Eej Mod, a tree believed to grant wishes to the faithful. Scores of believers made offerings of milk, butter, scarves, and candles to the wish-fulfilling tree while shamans communed nearby and I tried to observe and partake in the ritual.
We ended up eating lunch in Dulanken, a tiny village where Bilguun’s father was born. We ate at her aunt’s house, a tiny dwelling lacking both plumbing and electricity! I had never been in such a rustic place and was really touched by her aunt’s hospitality--because of my vegetarian constraint, she made me Kash, a really tasty Russian baby food. (Apparently I was sharing the meal with her 9-month old grandson) Living in central UB, I was unaware of the situation of most Mongolians. I even made multiple comments to Oyumaa about how Mongolia didn’t feel like a developing country to me. However, it turns out that most of the amenities that I take for granted are not available to families who live in rural areas, who reside in gers, and especially nomadic herders.
After making a stop for afternoon tea at Bilguun’s mom’s place in Darkhan, we finally made the last leg of the journey back to UB and arrived back home around 7 PM on Sunday evening. The entire experience was such a blessing--accompanying a new-found friend across 4 provinces, visiting all sorts of dwellings and landscapes, camping in a ger 10 kms from the Russian border. When I told my parents of the trip, they were skeptical--roadtripping through a country with girls I hardly knew? I told them that I would be fine; after all, what’s life without a little adventure? And perhaps more importantly, I always choose to believe in the kindness and goodness of others. It is a belief I am sure will lead to more wonderful experiences like this one.