Glorious Gems of MP - The Temples of Gwalior Fort
The spectacular history of Gwalior Fort is one that can mesmerise almost anyone. While treading through the breathtaking pathways and historic temples that make up for its awe inspiring architecture, I heard the stones speak to me of the stories that survived through testing times.
At various places along the way to the Gwalior Fort’s hill are rock-cut statues of the Jain pantheon with Tirthankara saints dating back to 15th or 16th century. The best known among these are two major statue groups along the western approach route up the hill through Urwahi valley. Most of these Jain statues on the hill had been chiseled during the 15th century when the fort was under the control of Tomar kings, though a few are thought to date back as far as the 7th Century AD.
The rich culture from the past seeped through these magnificent rocks. But there was something amiss! These temples had also witnessed desecration by the Mughal dynasty. And looking at the damages made my heart sink for a minute. While, numerous idols from many of the niches were missing, one can’t help but notice the massive figure of Adinatha - the first Jain Tirthankara that stands 17 m tall and is undoubtedly one of the the tallest Jain statues n North India.
The small figure of a reclined lady is seen on one of the rock seemingly of Lord Mahavir’s mother, Trishala. Scriptures say that when she was bearing Lord Mahavir, she had a number of auspicious dreams. Scholars went on to interpret these and tell the virtues of the child which are now inscribed on the rocks.
There are many such huge stunning sculptures all around the pathway which strike you with their serene sense of divinity.
Later, I walked to the Saas-Bahu Mandir (the mother-in law and daughter-in-law temples). The pair of temples are made entirely by the interlocking of sandstones that dated back to the 11th century.
The Kachchapaghata King Mahipala built the first temple for his mother who worshipped Lord Vishnu. Originally it was known as Sahastrabahu - meaning one with thousand arms, another name for Lord Vishnu. Later he built another temple beside it for his daughter-in law, who worshipped Lord Shiva.
I circled around the two temples adorned with beautiful carvings of gods and goddesses. Some of them are - Ganga and Yamuna on each side of the door, Brahma with Saraswati, Vishnu and Lakshmi, Garuda, Shiva and Parvati and Navgraha above the door. These temples too were defaced and buried by the Mughals in the 17th C. It was only when the Britishers found them, that they excavated and restored the temples.
Another marvel I walked past was a stunning rock carved temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The 100 feet tall Teli ka Mandir, was built in the 9th century and it is believed to have been made by the Teli community (oil traders). The temple stands out because of its Dravidian and Buddhist architectural influence, especially the vaulted roof. It is adorned with sculptures from Hinduism.
Walking past these immutable sculptures, there was only one thought running in my mind. Hundreds of centuries may pass by, but these stories will remain forever.
Neethi Goldhawk is an independent illustrator and textile print designer who loves drawing all things dreamy, inspired by nature and life. She has illustrated for platforms like Redbull Amaphiko and Launchora. Her pen name (Goldhawk) was concocted in the crowded space of her mind full of absurd characters, who are but little children at heart. She is an avid Tumblr blogger and can be found here
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