Pal's Pet Project

Former pet store employee with a passion for pets and their care. Got a question about pet care? Send an ask! DISCLAIMER: I am not a professional, and my posts should not be taken as advice, professional or otherwise. Any opinions expressed are my own. When in doubt, consult with a veterinarian.

[pals-pet-project]

Can you write a post on mental stimulation for cats to go with the dog one? 🥺

Context: I have two littermates who just turned a year old and they *do* play with each other a lot but they also like me and want me to engage with them!

Context 2: I have chronic pain/fatigue so Jackson Galaxy is a bit too ambitious for me. 😂

Absolutely I can! I’m gonna break this into two parts: hands-off methods and more hands-on methods. I’ve tried to list options that will be low-energy for you!

Also, note that cat brains and dog brains are very different, so it’s a little harder to provide structured stimulation for cats. 

I do not have any affiliation with the attached links! I just thought they were good resources <3

Mental Stimulation for Cats

Part One: Hands-Off Methods

Puzzle toys: just like dogs, there are a variety of puzzle toys out there for cats! There are treat dispensers they can bat around, or puzzles where they have to move things around to get to their snacks. This gives them the illusion of “hunting” for their kibble or treats and activates the problem solving parts of their brain. Just like with dogs, you’re going to have to train them how to use these; it isn’t a skill they’ll naturally know.

Cat TV: youtube is FULL of cat videos, and also videos for cats. Try a few of them out! My cats LOVE watching squirrels and birds run across the TV.

NOTE: make sure your TV is stable and secure and won’t fall on your kitties if they bat at it!

Toy variety: there are SO many toys out there for cats. Ball tracks, kicker toys, tunnels, smaller toys they can bat or carry around, wand toys, motion activated toys… the list goes on and on. Try a variety of toys for your kitties. This not only will show you what kind of toys they like, but will also offer different types of enrichment!

Scratching surfaces: We all know that scratching is important for cats (keeps their claws honed AND is important for their kitty brains!) but you can take it to another level by offering a variety of textures and surfaces for them to scratch. There’s cardboard, twine, carpet… try different textures out and see what your cats like!

Window bird feeders: did you know they make bird feeders that suction to the outside of your window? We have two, and my cats go crazy for them. One of my kitties will sit there and stare at the window and wait for a squirrel to climb up, or a bird to land. Hours of entertainment for them. And for you, if you wanna watch. 

Part Two: Hands-On Methods

Wand toys: wand toys are probably the easiest way to be hands-on with your cat. And while you CAN run across your entire house, you definitely don’t have to. It can be just as effective for you to sit on the couch and wave the toy around as your cat chases after it. Also, there are so many different TYPES of wand toys. There are ribbon or string toys, or toys with feathers, or toys with plushies at the end for your cat to pounce on. If your cat doesn’t like one type of wand toy, try another! (If you want a super cheap option, there’s the cat dancer that’s literally cardboard at the end of a wire and cats go crazy for it. I believe it also comes with something that you can hang it on your wall when you’re not actively using it so cats can still play!)

Clicker training: Okay. I know you said Jackson Galaxy is too ambitious. BUT. Hear me out. Clicker training is sooo good for mental stimulation. It’s a very gradual process, but once you teach your cat that the click is a good thing, you can shape any behavior you want! This is essential for the next skill, too. Here is a video on clicker training, and here is a link to a clicker. (She says they’re different from dog clickers, but I don’t really think there’s enough of a difference to justify the price point difference.)

Fetch: this is a skill that takes a while to teach, because you have to do something called shaping the behavior. Still, even training your cat to fetch can be a great bonding experience! And once they learn how to do it, it’s more low-effort for you. Here is a video I found that covers step-by-step fetch training from the beginning.

NOTE: Avoid laser pointers! The problem with laser pointers is that cats want to hunt them, but they can’t actually CATCH them. And this is very discouraging for our little hunter friends. It’s not good for their kitty brains, and so I recommend trying other methods, even though laser pointers seem like an easy way to wear your cat out.

[pals-pet-project]

Pal's Pro Pet Tip #5: Mental Stimulation for Dogs

Tiring out a puppy or high-energy dog seems like an impossible task. It feels like they can run or walk or play fetch forever. And you’re so TIRED. How does this dog have more energy than you do?!

Don’t get me wrong; moderate physical exercise is still important, especially for a growing puppy. But relying solely on physical exercise is not recommended for a few reasons, including:

Overexercising a growing puppy can damage their growing joints and muscles

The more you exercise a dog, the stronger it becomes and the more endurance it has. So then you have to exercise your dog more, and more, and more, and more…

The general rule of thumb is 5 minutes of structured exercise for 1 month of age. So, an 8 week old puppy needs ten minutes of structured exercise, a 3 month old puppy needs 15, etc. 

But have you ever met a 3 month old puppy? They have so much more energy than 15 minutes of exercise is gonna burn.

That’s where mental stimulation comes in.

Working a dog’s brain actually burns MORE energy than physical exercise. It’s also a good form of enrichment! Think about it: if you spend a day focused and working, you’re more tired than a day doing nothing, right? It’s the same with dogs. So the secret to burning more energy is to use those doggy brains of theirs. 

How can I do that?

There are just about unlimited ways to keep a dog’s brain busy. Here are a few good ones:

Using their Noses

Sniffing walks: take your dog on a walk not focused on exercise, but instead on letting your dog sniff as you go. 

Treasure hunts: hide treats around the house or in the yard and have your dog sniff them out, like an easter egg hunt but with their nose. Make sure the area you’re using is clear of things that could be toxic to your dog!

Snuffle mats: these are mats that contain little pockets and flaps that you can hide treats in, and then the dog has to sniff them out. (Note: my dog figured out immediately that he could just pick up the mat and shake it, so now we duct tape our mats to the ground)

Solving Problems

Training: make your dog work for their food! Meal time is a great time to work on training, with a few pieces of kibble as a reward. Working through meals this way is a great way, especially for a food motivated dog, to work on brain stimulation, enrichment, AND bonding. Plus you’re hammering in those good behaviors you want to see!

Puzzle toys: pet stores sell plenty of puzzle toys you can teach your dog how to use! Something to note is you DO have to train your dog how to use them—they won’t instinctively know. There are also treat balls, which are another great option!

Destroying things: destruction is good for doggy brains! It’s enrichment and instinct for them. I know we all hate messes, but every once in a while, your dog needs to make a mess.

Cabbages: I’ve heard some dogs love ripping cabbages to shreds! You could also tuck treats into the layers if you wanted for them to find as they rip up.

Cardboard: my dog LOVES destroying cardboard specifically.

Cheap plush toys: you can get cheap toys at thrift stores (or on sale at pet stores) with the explicit purpose of letting your dog destroy them. Just be careful to avoid toys that have tiny pieces your dog could accidentally swallow! Embroidered faces are best. 

Chewing and Licking

Frozen treats: you can buy premade treats that you just need to stick in the freezer, or you can make your own! Dogs love Greek yogurt, peanut butter, and wet dog food, and these all work great frozen. Throwing in small amounts of fruits or veggies is also an option, if that’s something your dog enjoys!

Kongs: Kongs and similar toys are such great tools. You can fill them with just about anything: peanut butter, Greek yogurt, wet dog food… If you freeze them, it’ll take them even more time to work through them!. 

Chews: At some point, I’m going to make a whole post on chews. In the meantime, bully sticks and beef cheek rolls are great options, or there are toys (like Starmark) that you can refill with edible chews. 

Lick mats: work your dog’s brain by getting lick mats with different textures for them to lick clean. Spread their favorite liquidy treat over the mat (again, peanut butter, Greek yogurt, and wet food are all good options!) and either let them go at it, or freeze it to make it last longer.

Things to Avoid

People on tiktok and reddit have all sorts of tips and tricks for doggy mental stimulation. A lot of these are great! But there are some things to be cautious of when trying new things:

Things that are inedible that your dog can destroy and ingest. Lots of people suggest wrapping treats in towels for the dog to find, but I’ve heard too many stories of dogs eating the towels to be comfortable doing this myself. This really does depend on your dog, though! If your dog is older or very chill, the towel trick may work well for you!

Leaving your dog unattended. Especially with new activities, make sure you’re supervising your dog. This way, you can step in if they’re doing something they’re not supposed to or about to get hurt.

Rawhide, chews that are too hard, or bones that can splinter. Again, I’ll make a post on chews at some point. But all of these options pose potential danger or health risks to dogs. In general, if you can’t indent the chew with your fingernail, it’s too hard and should be avoided as they can chip teeth.

[pals-pet-project]

Kitten Starter Guide: Part III

A friend that's never had a pet before has been considering getting a kitten, but she has no idea what to expect. This is my attempt at a comprehensive kitten guide.

Things to avoid:

String/Hair ties—String and hair ties can be lethal to cats and kittens. Both can knot around tissue or organs or cause internal blockages that can be deadly.

Plants—I’m not going to say you have to avoid plants entirely, but research every single plant you have or bring home to make sure they are safe for cats. Lilies and poinsettias, for example, are fatally toxic to cats. Even houseplants like the pothos can cause adverse reactions. If you do have a cat and a plant in the same space, make sure the cat isn’t eating or chewing on the plant. 

Medical Concerns

The following should be considered urgent. If you notice any of these, you should contact a vet immediately

White/blue/pale gums—Can indicate blood circulation or oxygenation issues

Straining/inability to pee, especially in male cats—Can indicate urinary blockages, which can be fatal if untreated

Labored or irregular breathing or open-mouth panting—if it’s not immediately after playtime, or is excessive, contact a vet.

Extreme lethargy—lots of sleeping is normal, but being nonresponsive or sluggish is not.

Extra Info:

I’m going to say something, and it’s going to sound crazy: get two kittens. It sounds like it would be more work, but the kittens actually entertain each other and tire each other out, so it ends up being LESS work in the long run. Playing enough with one kitten can be exhausting. 

Vet—Even if you get your kitten from a shelter that gave it a medical exam beforehand, take your kitten to a vet within the first few days of bringing them home. This helps you establish care, both in case of an emergency and for regular check-ups as your kitten grows. 

Pet insurance—I highly recommend getting pet insurance as soon as you bring your kitten home. You pay a monthly fee (which, if you get it when your kitten is young, is actually very low). In turn, you have a deductible of a couple hundred dollars, and then pet insurance will reimburse you up to 90% for non-routine medical care. This means if your kitten gets sick or hurt, you don’t have to worry quite as much about money. It has really brought me peace of mind to have on my pets, and I can’t recommend it enough. Some plans are way better (and cheaper) than others, so I recommend doing your research before committing. 

Do not declaw your kitten—Declawing is inhumane unless medically necessary. When a cat is declawed, the first joint of their finger bone is removed. This can lead to arthritis as the cat gets older and causes pain. Plus, scratching is a natural behavior that cats need to be able to engage in. In fact, declawing is illegal in many countries and many American vets will not declaw anymore.

Your kitten is safer being an indoor cat than an outdoor cat. Indoors, there are no coyotes or hawks or cars. Additionally, outdoor cats are detrimental to the environment as they are non-native and highly effective hunters. Cats are not “missing out” by being indoor-only. They are being given a chance at a longer life AND you’re protecting the environment.

When bringing any new pet home, remember the 3 3 3 Rule. It takes three days for a new pet to decompress/destress in their new environment, three weeks for them to settle into a routine, and three months for them to feel at home. At each stage, you will notice behavioral changes, and you won’t see your kitten’s full personality until after those three months have passed.

Catnip doesn’t work on kittens! It doesn’t have any negative effects, but they won’t really be interested in it until they’re usually between four and six months old. 

PART I | PART II

[pals-pet-project]

Kitten Starter Guide: Part II

A friend that's never had a pet before has been considering getting a kitten, but she has no idea what to expect. This is my attempt at a comprehensive kitten guide.

Behaviors:

Kneading—A lot of cats, especially kittens, do a behavior called kneading. This is when they stretch their claws on a soft surface such as a shirt or blanket, then pull back and repeat the motion. It might include suckling, where they suck on the fabric as they go. This is normal and does not have any negative behavioral effects. Some kittens will grow out of this, and some won’t.

Play—Kittens have a LOT of energy. You’ll have to play with them for 1-2 hours throughout the day. Break this into 15-20 minute intervals. Kitten playing can look like lots of things: running around the house, batting things around, jumping, and climbing. High-energy spurts are normal and often called “zoomies.”

Sleeping—Kittens need about 20 hours of sleep a day and are most active at dawn and dusk, so don’t worry if your kitten is taking lots of naps. (Lethargy, on the other hand, is different. If your kitten isn’t playing at all, is hiding, isn’t eating, or is having any other symptoms of illness, give your vet a call).

Scratching—Scatching is a totally normal cat behavior. It relieves anxiety, stretches muscles, hones their claws, and is good exercise. The best way to deal with scratching is to give your kitten lots of different textures to scratch. If you’re worried about your furniture, you can get all sorts of furniture protectors online. 

Grooming:

For all grooming, get kittens used to it early! Make it a positive experience so they learn to tolerate these things as they get older (and bigger and stronger). Use lots of treats and take things slow.

Clipping nails—Wait until the kitten is relaxed, then gently spread the paw pad and clip one nail at a time. Give a treat for each clipped claw. I suggest cutting one claw every day so they get used to the routine of it. 

Brushing—Use either a metal comb or a slicker brush for best deshedding. If you’re using a slicker brush, the ones without the plastic ends work better, but either is fine. Most of the work for long-haired cats should be done with the metal comb. Brush daily to avoid tangles and matts, which can pull on the cat’s skin and cause pain. 

Bathing—Cats don’t really need baths. They’re very good at keeping themselves clean. Still, it’s good for them to be used to being handled in this way, because if they get into something and need a bath, the experience will be traumatizing for all parties involved. Cleaning their ears with a cotton ball and cat-safe gentle ear cleanser is a good way to get them used to being handled a little more.

Training:

With all training, consistency is key. If you don’t stay consistent, your kitten isn’t going to learn. 

Cats don’t really understand negative reinforcement. For this reason, things like spray bottles aren’t effective training methods. Instead of telling a kitten what they can’t do, you have to teach them what they CAN do. 

Sleeping at night—You’re not going to be able to teach a kitten to sleep through the night, but you can teach them to leave you alone. To encourage sleeping at the same time, have a rigorous play session before bed to exhaust them, and give them a snack or a small meal. If your kitten wakes you up in the middle of the night, no matter how obnoxious or loud they are, ignore them. If they learn they can meow enough to wake you up, then they’re going to start doing MORE of that. 

Being gentle—Never use your hands or feet as toys with a kitten, because this will teach them to see these things as toys, which means more scratching and biting. There are a few different methods you can use to train a kitten to be gentle. First, redirection. If your kitten starts trying to play with your hands or feet, pull yourself away and offer an appropriate toy. This will teach them what they are allowed to play with. I recommend always having something on-hand so you have it immediately available. Second, make a pained meow/”youch” sound every time your kitten scratches or bites. This will teach them that what they’re doing hurts. 

Scratching—If your kitten is scratching something you don’t want them to scratch, pick them up and move them to one of their scratching surfaces and encourage them to scratch there instead. This gets repetitive. You’ll have to get up a lot. But it’ll keep your furniture or door frames safe. If a kitten is insistent on scratching on a certain area, put one of their approved scratching surfaces in that area. 

PART I | PART III

[pals-pet-project]

Kitten Starter Guide: Part I

A friend that's never had a pet before has been considering getting a kitten, but she has no idea what to expect. This is my attempt at a comprehensive kitten guide.

Supplies:

Wet food and dry food—more on this below

Pet fountain—cats are more likely to drink from a moving water source than an unmoving one.

Saucers for wet and dry food—if the sides of the bowl are too high, cats can experience “whisker fatigue,” where they get overstimulation from too much sensation on their whiskers

Toys—You’ll want lots and lots of toys for your kitten. Get a variety to see what they like! Wand toys are great for bonding, but kittens also really like kicky toys, toys to bat around, tunnels, and ball tracks.

Scratching surfaces—get a variety of surfaces for scratching, such as cat trees, scratching posts, cardboard scratchers, and scratch pads. Scratching is important for kittens, even with well-maintained nails! It will also keep your furniture a little safer from getting clawed. 

Beds—kitties of all ages love comfy places to sleep! Different cats prefer different sleeping places, so I suggest some covered and some open beds. Also be aware that even if you get the best bed in the world, your new friend might never use it, or might prefer a cardboard box instead. You just never know. 

Cat tree—cats love to climb! Cat trees come in all sorts of sizes, so you’re likely to find something that lives in your living space. 

Carrier—It’s good to have a carrier on hand for vet visits, moves, and emergencies. I recommend keeping it out all the time in a place your kitten can engage with it. This way, they’re comfortable with it instead of being afraid. Soft carriers tend to be more comfortable, but hard carriers are safer in the car. 

Collar and name tag—even with an indoor kitty, there’s a chance they’ll get out. 

Litter box and litter—there is a separate section on all this!

Cat nail clippers—Even if your cat is good about scratching, you’ll still want to clip nails about once a week. Cat-specific clippers are the best tools for the job.

Brush or Comb—you’ll want to keep your kitten well-groomed, especially if they’re long hair. More on this later. 

Litter boxes

The best course of action is to have one more litter box than you have cats. So if you have one kitten, you want two. If you have two, you want three. This gives kitties options on where to go and, if you have more than one pet, lessens territorial disputes.

Litter—there are a lot of different types of litters out there! There are pros and cons to every one, but my suggestion is to start with clay litter, even if you plan on changing it, because your kitten is likely used to this kind already and will be more likely to use it. 

Always have at least three inches of clean litter in the litter boxes so kittens can adequately cover their waste. 

Scoop litter boxes daily, and ALWAYS wash your hands afterwards.

Don’t put food and water directly next to a litter box! Cats will be less likely to eat and drink if it’s near their waste.

Feeding:

You really can’t overfeed a kitten. I’d offer two small cans of wet food a day as well as unlimited access to dry food.

Wet food is essential because cats get most of their hydration from their food. 

Feed kitten food until your kitten is between six months and one year old. Then, switch to adult food. 

There’s a lot of debate about what makes a good cat/kitten food. My take is that the science-backed brands are the best. Science says that it’s not grain that’s bad for cats, but carbohydrates. Ironically, some grain-free foods are higher in carbs than grain-in. For these reasons, I stick to WSAVA-approved foods. These foods have to meet rigorous scientific and nutritional standards. 

IAMS

Purina (this includes Pro Plan, One, Friskies, Fancy Feast, and Cat Chow!)

Hills Science Diet

Royal Canin

The best way to avoid a picky eater is consistency. You can offer a small variety of wet food flavors, but you don’t need to do more than maybe four. If a cat knows they have infinite options, they’ll start getting particular about what they eat.

PART II | PART III

[pals-pet-project]

A little update hehehe I revamped his set up a teensy tiny bit by adding EVEN MORE bedding so I think his sleeping area (before it slopes down into his dig box area and sand bath area) now has like... 11 inches of bedding?

But he's a happy little baby!! He came out and ate some white millet while I was there 😭 and when he noticed me, he didnt zoom away? Little man actually started dosing off hahahaha

Void o r b

YAY I LOVE ALL THE BEDDING!!! He already seems to be getting comfortable! I hope he's making lots and lots of tunnels 💖

[pals-pet-project]

OH also!! I found out his love for whimzees

Play pen time tonight and little guy yoinked it

And him exploring the "snuffle mat" which is just birch logs with floral forage and sunflower seeds in it for him to figure out

WHIMZEES ARE SUCH A GOOD HAMSTER TREAT!!!! I think that's something not everyone knows about, but I LOVE suggesting the brusheez for hamsters. And I LOVE that snuffle mat! I hope he's doing well adjusting to his life with you!!

[pals-pet-project]

Heyo!! I was actually the anon who wrote about my new hamster and I'm getting brave hahaha but this is my little guy!! His name is Smokey and he's my baby boy ❤️ I got the new wheel, a Funstertail 30cm, delivered today for him to replace the pets at home one cause the wheel part it was wobbling back and forth everytime he ran and stopped on it so he didn't use the wheel much so hopefully the Funstertail will be more stable ❤️

He was having playpen time and I was using his carrier as a makeshift safe hide so I could look him over for his health check cause he's not comfy with being stared at in the measuring jug 😭 I use the measuring jug to have him climb into it and then I transport him using that but the moment I dared to move him a bit closer to my face, he was like "absolutely not" and started chittering a bit

He's got a piece of dried banana I got from Hopeshealthytreats as a bargaining chip but I only give him a sweet treat (the dried banana or strawberry or fresh fruit suitable) once a week and then it's a tiny piece of a veggie every 2-3 days

I'm so glad I adopted him because I learn newer and newer things but here's his enclosure right now!! And I'm getting some pagima sprays and more oat sprays coming tomorrow to add more clutter but hes got flax, sorghum, Sudan grass, broom corn and even the hyacinth tunnel and I got him a water well too so he has the choice between bottle on one end of the enclosure and the water well on the other side :]

This was from last night but the wheel is the Funstertail one now cause I changed it this afternoon hehehe

But I love my little guy who lives rent free in my flat 🥹

This makes me SO happy!!! Thank you for the follow up! What a lucky (and adorable) hamster. His enclosure is beautiful! So many safe things for him to do! So much enrichment! It truly sounds like you're doing everything right by him. Thank you for doing your research, and thank you for giving the little guy such a loving home! It brings me so much joy to see a hamster living a life like they deserve.

[thehmn]

One of the most heartwarming things I’ve ever heard a dog trainer say “A pushy pet who makes small demands and communicates their needs to you is a safe pet. It means they trust you and aren’t afraid of your reaction if they misbehave and push your buttons a little”

[pals-pet-project]

Hell yeah, ethical pet care blog 😎😎😎 so recently I got a hamster from my work and im wondering if there's anything else youd recommend for his care?

- he has the bucatstate 3.0 with 9-10 inches of bedding on one half and it slopes down towards his sand bath which is a niteangel one with reptisand in it. I wanted to create like a natural hill terrain so he still has a ton of burrowing space but he has a little slope experience for exploration

- he has a ceramic hide, a burrow starter, a water source (i got the niteangel water bottle and I'll get a slate tile soon to put it under it so his nails can be safely worn down), and 11-12 inch wheel (its the large pets at home silent runner), platforms so nothing sinks and harms him

- I have a cork tunnel too that I baked in the oven to remove any ectoparasites or anything harmful

- Wooden chew sticks for his teeth

- I have 2 sprays right now but I got more from Hopeshealthytreats like their spray starter and statice flowers.

- thinking of getting a hyacinth tunnel just cause I know hamsters love clutter for safety

- also thinking of getting a multichamber hide BUT he's already built a burrow under the platform that the wheel is on and hes only been with me for like 3 days now so I don't want to destroy his work

- im feeding him the pah muesli as thats what he was on but I'm gonna wean him onto the mixerama Syrian mix

I just hope he pees in the sand bath 😭 cause with spot cleaning i dont want to disturb his burrow if he pees in there

Im gonna also get a playpen in like a month's time when he gets more comfy, after settling in, to be handled and lifted out with a mug or a jug

Is there anything else I'm missing?

Hey! I'm glad you found my blog ❤️It sounds like you've done your research, and you're gonna have a VERY happy hammy. The setup sounds like a dream, the food you're switching to has a good seed variety as well as a protein source—you should be very proud of yourself! Hamsters DO love clutter, so the more of that you get in there, the better, but it sounds like you have a plan in place for that too!

It makes me really happy to hear about hamster owners like you! I hope you and your new little guy have so much fun together 🐾

[pals-pet-project]

Pal's Pro Pet Tip #4: Hamster Enclosures

Today we're gonna touch base on how to set up an enclosure for another pet care underdog: the hamster.

I'll be real with you--until I started researching them a few years ago, I was really afraid of hamsters. I got bit by my neighbor's syrian as a kid and it scarred me.

Turns out that most hamsters--including the one that bit me--don't receive the proper care. I'd be mean too, if I were living in such unfit conditions.

So how do you get a happy hamster? You give them a good home!

Step One: Choosing an Enclosure

I'm gonna be real with you.

I have never seen an appropriate cage for a hamster at a chain pet store. In fact, I don't think I've seen one at privately owned pet stores, either.

That's because 1. hamsters aren't climbers, and so anything with tubes and levels is inappropriate and 2. hamsters need WAY more unbroken space than people realize.

How much space? Depends on the hamster. I'd recommend 800 sq inches of unbroken floor space for a dwarf hamster and 1000 sq inches of unbroken floor space for a Syrian (also known as teddy bears or fancy bears). Note that bigger is always better, and you can't really make an enclosure too big.

"That's too much space! I don't have that kind of room!"

Me neither! And that's why I don't have a hamster.

There's a few avenues you can take to get enough space for your hamster:

handmade bin cages

DIY detolf cages

Purchased cages

(thank you r/hamsters for the links!)

Step Two: Bedding

Hamsters like to burrow! And as such, they need a large amount of bedding so they can dig and tunnel. I recommend at least 10 inches of bedding.

You're looking for a bedding that is unscented, dust-free, absorbent, and can hold a burrow.

Your best options for this are kiln-dried and dust-free aspen or unscented paper bedding.

Even if your hamster ends up being the type that decides not to burrow much, you still need this much bedding! At the very least, it absorbs their waste and the ammonia smell.

Step Three: Exercise

First thing to know: Hamster balls are bad!

They make it hard to breathe for the poor things, and the vents that's meant to make it easier can get their little feet stuck. Plus they can fall off things or get bumped or kicked. I do not recommend balls at all.

But your hamster DOES need a wheel!

It's important that your hamster's back doesn't arch while they're on the wheel. For dwarf hamsters, this means an 8 inch wheel or larger. For syrians, I'd go at least 12 inches.

I know people really like Niteangel wheels!

If you notice your hamster's back is arched when they're running, upgrade to a larger wheel to avoid skeletal damage and back pain.

A wheel is essential--this is what gives hamsters the ability to run as much as they would in the wild!

Step Four: Enrichment and Decorations

Hamsters like clutter! It not only gives them things to do, but it also makes them feel safe. Clutter can include:

Lots of hides (made of wood or ceramic, because they WILL chew on them)

A sand bath (not fine sand. You can use play sand, but it needs to be baked and sifted first)

Sprays of seeds and hamster-friendly dried plants (stuff like barley is great)

Wooden chews and toys

Wooden platforms and bridges for them to climb over, under, and through

And then hamsters obviously need water and food as well.

You can also use cardboard and wood glue to build your own enrichment for your hamster! Stay away from cloth and plastic, because you don't want your hammy digesting these.

You can't really over-clutter a hamster's enclosure, so go wild!

And that's it!

It's a far cry from the brightly-colored bar cages we know and hate. Hamsters are a much bigger commitment than people realize--even with their shorter lifespans. In my opinion, they're not necessarily great pets for kids, but that's how they--and their enclosures--are marketed.

[pals-pet-project]

Pal's Pro Pet Tip #3: The Nitrogen Cycle

One thing that drove me crazy working at a pet store was this idea that we pushed where you could add a fish to a tank after running it with a water conditioner and filter for 24 hours. Like, that was all it took to make a healthy tank. And then people's fish would die, and they'd be mad, and it was a whole thing.

That's because it's not that simple! There's a whole thing we're forgetting (or ignoring, I guess.)

The Nitrogen Cycle!

"Pal, what the hell is a nitrogen cycle?"

Oh boy, am I glad you asked. Basically, the living things in your tank--fish from their waste and extra food, plants in the form of decay--release ammonia. Ammonia is very harmful to living things. Luckily, there's bacteria that feeds on ammonia and turns it into nitrites, which are less harmful than ammonia but still not great. But there's more bacteria that feeds on that and turns it into nitrates, which are only harmful in high amounts!

Keep in mind that Nitrates don't go anywhere, so that's why water changes are important. We'll touch base on that in a bit.

So basically, when you set up a new tank, you want to get this cycle established so that it can handle the waste your tank produces and keep it within safe levels for the fish. There's fish-in cycling too, but I'm a big proponent of fishless cycling to avoid potential harm to the fish (unless you got the fish already, in which case you should do a fish-in cycle the best you can!)

How to Cycle a Tank

Cycling a tank is, in my experience, a lot of fun. It makes me feel like a scientist. What you're gonna need:

An ammonia source (either cheap fish food or straight ammonia meant for aquariums--I used Dr. Tim's brand)

A testing kit (the liquid API Master Test kit is going to be the most accurate and is well worth it)

I'm gonna give a pretty surface-level summary here, but here's a page with a more in-depth explanation

Basically, you're gonna add an ammonia source (but not too much! You want between 2 and 5 PPM on your test kit) as much as necessary until the tank is cycled. You'll test as you go to make sure you're within the correct parameters. After about a week, you'll start checking to see if your tank has nitrite in it. If it does, your cycle has started! The bacteria is starting to grow! If not, just keep on keeping on. It'll show up eventually. After the ammonia goes down and the nitrites go up, you'll eventually get nitrates, and you'll know your cycle is almost over.

Your cycle is complete when you an add a full dose of ammonia and after twenty-four hours, you have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and a higher level of nitrate.

(That means it's safe for fish).

When I cycled my tank, I used ammonium chloride. I didn't need to add some every day, but I did test my water every day to see where it was at.

Be patient! It can take up to two months for a tank to cycle.

(Pro tip though: If you know someone that has an established tank, take some of their filter media to move your cycle along faster!)

How to Keep a Tank Cycled

So, after your tank is cycled, it needs two things to keep going: a continued source of ammonia and things for the bacteria to cling to.

The ammonia source is easy. Just add your fish! I recommend not adding too many at once and making sure your tank isn't overstocked. This will prevent an ammonia spike, which could be deadly.

The surfaces thing is a little more nuanced, but it's just some general rules of thumb to keep in mind:

Don't break down and clean your tank completely like, ever. The bacteria lives on your filter and in your substrate and on your decorations. If you clean everything, all that bacteria is going to die and your cycle will crash.

Don't do a 100% water change!! There's bacteria in your water column too. I recommend 20-30%. 50% in case of emergencies at MOST.

If you clean your filter, clean it in a bucket of tank water and not under a faucet/untreated water. The chlorine in tap water will kill the bacteria, and you'll have to start your cycle over.

The Importance of Water Changes

Nitrates are, in small amounts, harmless. Unfortunately, they can still do some damage if there's a lot of them! (I'm talking 80+ PPM)

They have nowhere to go--they don't turn into anything else--so the only thing to do is get rid of them. Live plants can help a lot with this, but the fastest way to remove nitrates is with a water change. Again, I'd do 20-30% every week or two depending on the size of your tank (smaller tanks need more frequent changes!).

This also has the added benefit of fresh water being added to your tank, which keeps those trace minerals in the water column that fish and snails and shrimp need to be healthy.

My recommendation for water changes is to get a siphon/gravel vacuum so you can get the debris out of the substrate as you go--this is where most of the waste is gonna hide that'll cause ammonia and such to spike.

Easy, right?

Okay, okay. I know that's a lot of information. But it's important to know! Any pet needs regular attention and care, and keeping your cycle going strong is an important part of that for your fish! With this, at least, it's very easy to fall into a routine. Your fish will thank you!

[pals-pet-project]

Pal's Pro Pet Tip #2: Setting Up a Betta Tank

The betta fish is my favorite fish of all time. They're spunky, they're sassy, they're smart. But there are so many misconceptions about them that most don't get the quality of life they deserve.

Step One: Choosing a Tank

When I worked at a pet store, so many people came in and would tell me "I have a betta in a half gallon tank/vase/cup :)" and I would have to tell them "Hey. That's no good." The analogy I like to use is to imagine living in just your bathroom. You don't have much space to move around and you're surrounded by your own grime and waste. Is that how you'd want to live? Why would your fish want to live that way?

The bare minimum I recommend for a betta is 5 gallons, and even then I would only recommend that for a long-finned betta. Their fins weigh them down and make swimming harder. If you have a short-finned/plakat betta, I'd go 10 gallons or more. I had a plakat in a 36 gallon, and the only reason I moved him was because he was getting bullied (and tank mates are a whole other can of worms). But he used every inch of that space.

Bowls are not appropriate tanks for any fish! Including bettas!

Step Two: Supplies

Bettas need, at the bare minimum, a filter, a heater, and a thermometer.

Filters are important because they keep the water flow going and because they help establish a nitrogen cycle (there will be a separate post on this later) to keep your betta safe and healthy.

Wild bettas live in bodies of water with little to no water flow. They're not good at keeping up with a current. So if your filter is too strong, it's going to stress out your little guy and make it hard for him to swim. Especially in a smaller tank, I highly suggest a sponge filter! They limit the amount of flow in the tank while still cleaning the water.

As for heaters, I suggest an adjustable one. They're a little more than the preset ones, but they're more... you know. Adjustable. The ideal temperature range is 76-82 degrees Fahrenheit.

I prefer glass thermometers, but I hear digital ones are relatively accurate as well.

Step Three: Decorations

Bettas love clutter!!! It gives them things to do! Imagine an empty room. Now, imagine a room full of places to explore. Which room would you wanna live in? You can't really overcrowd a betta tank!

Some rules of thumb for decorating your tank:

Avoid any decorations that are rough or sharp. If you wouldn't be able to drag pantyhose across it without it ripping or tearing, it isn't appropriate for a betta's fins.

Lots and lots of plants! Live plants are best because they better replicate the natural environment of the betta. They're also WAY easier to keep alive than people realize! I don't have a green thumb with dry plants, but both my tanks are fully planted and it's one of my favorite parts of fish keeping. Still, if the idea is too intimidating, stick to silk plants and not plastic ones. The plastic ones can be too sharp for the little guys' fins.

Give them hiding places! I have driftwood for my little guy to swim in and around, as well as a few cute little swim-throughs and hides. There are so many hides out there--both natural and artificial--that you'll have plenty of options!

Have stuff towards the top of your tank! Bettas--especially those with long fins--are not the best swimmers. They also have an air-breathing organ called the labyrinth, so they need to have easy access to the top of the tank. I personally have some anubias plants on suction cups and a floating betta log, but you can also buy artificial leaves meant to stick to the side. Bettas love to sleep near the surface, and it's really cute!!

Step Four: Chemicals and Water

When you are finally ready to fill your tank with water, it's still not ready for a fish. First off, tap water has chlorine and other trace minerals in it that aren't safe for your fishy! So they need to be removed. Pet stores are really good about branding products specifically for bettas--but guess what! You don't need betta-specific products! They're usually lower quality and higher price. Some even contain aloe, which can coat the labyrinth and be harmful to bettas.

Get yourself some Seachem Prime and call it a day. It's a water conditioner that I trust above all others for all types of fish, bettas included (but there's no affiliation between me and them beyond how much I enjoy the product). You're gonna add one drop per gallon of water into your tank.

Then, you're gonna cycle your tank completely so it's safe for your fishy. Again, I'll make an in-depth post on this later--but basically you're establishing an ammonia cycle, so you should have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and somewhere between 20 and 40 nitrate. It can take a month or two to get here. But it's worth it to keep the little guys safe and healthy, right?

Oh, and another thing--don't use distilled water! It doesn't have essential minerals in the water--because it's been distilled--and can actually be harmful to your fish.

And that's it!

Put all of that together, and you've got a perfect little Betta house. When they're happy, you can really see their personalities come out, and their colors will be more vibrant!

[pals-pet-project]

Pal's Pro Pet Tip #1: Dog Food

We're gonna start this blog off with a bang: selecting the right brand of food for your dog.

"But Pal," you say, "That sounds really boring. Surely it can't be that important."

Wrong.

There's a lot of nuance to dog food. It can get really complicated. But, luckily, it's also really simple.

First, what to avoid.

A lot of people think that the more "natural" foods are best. After all, dogs are descended from wolves. Shouldn't we be feeding them like wolves?

No <3

Here's a PDF of the potential dangers of feeding raw

TL;DR: There's a higher chance of bacterial contamination in uncooked foods. Additionally, there is a serious danger of nutrient deficiency when feeding homemade, refrigerated, or raw diets.

Even if you're not feeding raw, lots of brands will advertise themselves as "holistic" or "natural." In my opinion, this is a good reason to run away. Those are buzzwords. They mean nothing. They're not good for your dog because they're focused more on the marketing than the research behind their products.

Second, what to look for.

Lucky for you, there's an easy answer to all of this. But I'm gonna go through the finer details first.

What do we want, then? If natural is bad and raw is bad, then what is good?

Science. Science is good.

So, when you're looking for a food, I always recommend following WSAVA guidelines. (And we trust WSAVA because they're a global organization that has put decades into researching pet foods in order to make sure their needs are being met) I'm gonna summarize this below, but if this is too much to read, I'll simplify things at the end.

Basically, you want a brand of food that:

Has an Animal Nutritionist on staff. They have a nutritionist--who either has a PhD in Animal Nutrition or is certified by either the American College for Veterinary Nutrition or European College of Veterinary Comparative Nutrition. Many, many brands are like "Yeah we have a specialist :)" But fun fact: That's a title anyone can give themself. It means nothing. Another important distinction is that they are on staff--not an outside consult. They are always there overseeing the research and the process.

Has a trustworthy pet food formulator--someone with a Masters or Doctorate in Animal Nutrition. Maybe their Animal Nutritionist is cross-trained. Maybe it's someone else with a PhD. Regardless, it's not just anyone--it's someone that knows the intricacies of not only nutrition, but also how to handle raw materials and process food. These are things not taught in veterinary school, and they're certainly not things readily available to breeders or trainers.

Has a good quality control process. First off, do we know they meet Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) or European Pet Food Industry Federation guidelines? (That just means they meet the profile of nutrition a dog needs.) How do we know that? They should be running tests on their food pretty much constantly--ingredient validation, final diet nutrition analysis, toxicology, bacteriology, and packaging/shelf-life screenings prior to these foods being released.

Bonus: Dedicates themselves to product research and nutrition studies. This isn't a requirement of WSAVA, but it does show a dedication to the health of the animals they're feeding.

"Wow. That sure is a lot of information. How the hell am I supposed to check all that?!"

Good news.

Kind of.

Out of the hundreds of brands of pet food, there are five brands--FIVE--that meet all these requirements. Those brands are:

Iams

Purina (ANY purina brand--so Pro Plan and One are both good!)

Hills Science Diet

Eukanuba

Royal Canin

That's it. Those five brands have put in the necessary money, hours, and experience to make sure you're getting a science-based food that's good for your dog. Other companies may claim to be WSAVA approved, but don't be fooled. That's not a thing. It's not an accreditation organization. They simply offer guidelines that a brand does or doesn't meet. There's a sixth brand that funds the WSAVA, but they do not meet the guidelines!

Bottom line?

When recommending a brand of food, I stick to those 5 brands. There's a wide range of affordability within those brands, so there's something for everyone!

That being said, I also never shame someone for what they're feeding. Fed is best at the end of the day, and lots of people don't know better. You can educate and redirect, but the most important thing is that a dog is eating.