PARIS BLOG

Life and times of a former New Yorker living, working, and going to business school in (and around) Paris. Expat life in France. ALL PHOTOS ARE MY OWN UNLESS I SAY SO. (This is a portrait of Karl Lagerfeld's cat, Choupette, one of the most spoiled Parisians). Instagram: SupParis My Paris Map: Paris Paris blogs written by my friends: Creative Croissant Wanna Feel Local Blogs that I like: Shut Up and Go Roads and Kingdoms Stuff Parisians like Rachel Khoo Manger Les Lolos

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FOR THE PUZZLE NERD IN YOU: ESCAPE GAME ROOMS IN PARIS

We were running out of ideas to entertain ourselves during the latest Parisian canicule. Like I said, movies are only 2 hours long! Enter: escape games in Paris. We just happened to walk by The Game in Paris and we were intrigued.

Escape game premise: you are locked in a room and you have 60 minutes to find clues, solve puzzles, and get out! Most of the rooms have a theme (a classic detective office, a submarine, a casino, a living room, and even a replica of a metro train!). 

Apparently, Escape rooms are pretty popular in Paris right now. I checked The Game, HintHunt, and a few others on the top of the TripAdvisor list, and all of them were fully booked. Finally, Gamescape had one slot available for Saturday. For 4 players, it was 27 euros each (usually the more players you have, the cheaper it is per person). 

It was our first escape room and we had so much fun that we are ready to try some more! I can proudly say that we solved our first room in 54 minutes, not too bad. The staff was friendly and we got some accessories to help put us in the belle-epoque mood. 

Gamescape offers 3 different levels of room: beginner, medium, and advanced. Our “Interview with Gustave Eiffel” room was medium. It had enough puzzles to be challenging but not impossible to finish in 60 minutes. 

Know before you go: -Booking in advance is advised -You don’t need to have super gumshoe abilities, just come with an open mind and be ready for some fun -You will find out a lot about your friends! hahaha.  -In case you get stumped, there is a game master watching and listening to help you along -Many escape rooms are French and English-language friendly -Fun for teenages and kids too

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PISCINES IN PARIS: HOW TO BEAT THE PARIS SUMMERTIME HEAT

This is my second summer in Paris. While the weather is not nearly as bad as last year’s seemingly perpetual canicule (heat wave), temperatures are rising. If you didn’t already know, you should take note now: Paris is not a city of air conditioning. Many a times I walked into a shop hoping to be blasted by some cool a/c and instead walked into an oven even hotter than the street temperature. Only some of the metro lines have air conditioning, and none of the buses do. 

So, where does one go to beat the heat? Answers: 1. Movie theatres (but movies are only 2 hours long at most! What else can I do?) 2. Les grands magasins (department stores such as Printemps, Galeries Lafayette, shopping center Beaugrenelle) 3. Upscale hotel lobbies 4. Starbucks 5. The public pool! 

There are 39 public pools in Paris, find the closest one to you here. The pool I frequent is Piscine Keller in the 15eme. It has a retractable sun roof for the summer time, is one of the few Olympic size 50m pools, and well - it’s close to me. 

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: -The entry fee for Piscine Keller is 3 euros. Yay! Affordable.  -Men: no bermuda shorts allowed! You must wear something form-fitting. If you don’t have the proper swimswear, you can purchase at the pool.  -Swim caps are a must-have! Lifeguards will chase after you if you don’t have one. -Swim camps, swimsuits, and goggles can be purchased at vending machines. Bring cash and coins. -Piscine Keller has free lockers with a digital lock, other pools you need a euro coin -BRING FLIP FLOPS.   -Don’t be surprised if half the crowd isn’t swimming, but is sunbathing instead -While there is a dedicated “fast lane”, no one really respects it. As in - there’s plenty of leisurely kickers and floaters. You won’t get any Olympic training done here. 

For a more detailed guide on Paris Pools check out pret a voyager. 

Photo Credit: Paris ZigZag

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WEEKEND TRIP: RETURN TO CASSIS

Cassis is the antithesis of Marseille. Marseille is a commercial city in its own right, with large ports, forts, museums, and cathedrals. Cassis is a small holiday town, with narrow streets, ice cream shops, boutiques, and restos crowded along the picturesque port.

If you are visiting Marseille, it’s worth a stop to neighboring Cassis too. We enjoyed drinks and dinner here after our long hike through les calanques. 

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WEEKEND TRIP: HIKING THROUGH LES CALANQUES

According to Wikipedia, a calanque is “a narrow, steep-walled inlet that is developed in limestone, dolomite, or other carbonate strata and found along the Mediterranean coast”. Parc National de Calanque is situated between Marseille and Cassis, and is absolutely scenic - inlets of striking aqua blue water between craggy white cliffs dotted with trees.

Last April I took a boat tour departing from Cassis, passing by many of the calanques, but we were not allowed to stop and swim. This year when I revisited Marseille, I pledged to hike through the Calanque National Park and go for a dip in its crystal blue waters. 

There are many calanques that you can visit, Sugiton and Morgiou being two of the easiest to reach by foot. You can drive to Luminy, park the car, and depart from there. We decided to go to Sugiton. 

Tips: -Check the weather conditions before you go. When it’s too hot, they don’t allow hikers because of forest fire concerns -The hike takes an estimated 55 minutes and is mostly easy - there are some very smooth paths that give way to more wild, steep, and rocky parts -Bring all of the water and snacks that you will need (plus sunblock, and a towel if you want to swim) -There is a small cafe stand in the Luminy parking lot, otherwise you can get more variety at the local Paul cafe in Luminy -Be respectful! Take your trash with you when you go -It’s pretty crowded, especially on the weekends -The water is COLD. Was not prepared for that! 

At the end of the hike, my friend’s iphone app had recorded us hiking 10.6km and the equivalent of 62 flights of stairs (we did a few paths, one going all the way up to the top to the scenic part, and then another one going all the way down to Sugiton). 

After a few dips in the sea (and some cliff jumping!) we drove a very scenic route from Luminy to Cassis and treated ourselves to some drinks in the port of Cassis. More on that in the next post. 

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WEEKEND TRIP: ODE TO MARSEILLE

For the long 14th of July weekend, a few friends and I packed ourselves into a car and made the 7 hour drive from Paris to Marseille (9 hours if you include traffic and our stop for lunch). If you ask most Parisians if they have been to Marseille, they might give you a strange look. When Parisians flee Paris for holiday, they mostly think of Bretagne or Normandie in the north or Avignon and Nice in the south. Marseille as an escape? No way! 

Marseille has made a lot of effort to up its image, investing heavily in redefining the waterfront and making it more pedestrian and tourist-friendly. Even though it was my second time in Marseille, I discovered many new things and sides to the city. 

As the extra cherry on top, we had an extremely generous airbnb host who took us on a private 3 hour tour of les iles de frioul on his boat! Not every airbnb host can provide that kind of service. We discovered even more new secret spots of Marseille and les ils de frioul that would be hard to reach on foot. 

Not to be missed in Marseille (in no particular order): 1. Fort Saint Jean and MuCEM: for spectacular views of the sea and rotating exhibitions 2. Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde: the highest point of Marseille, for wide vistas of the city. Take the le petit train that departs from Vieux Port if you don’t want to make the hike up the hill.  3. Vieux Port: the bustling hub of Marseille, with many restos, bars, and of course - boats. We found our airbnb loft right on vieux port! It had an amazing view. 4. La Cantinetta: maybe one of my top favorite Italian restaurants of all time (well, I haven’t explored much of Italy yet).  5. Cours Julien: walk up the colorful steps to Cours Julien and enjoy a drink in this plaza 6. R2: this bar is connected to les terrasses de Marseille, one of the new developments along the sea. Enjoy a drink while watching the sunset from this large terrace. 7. Vanille Noire: try the peculiar, smoky, and almost slightly salty “black vanille” flavor at this ice cream stand 8. Les Calanques: See my following post about that! 

There are many, MANY other things to do in Marseille, but these were some of the highlights. 

Tragically, on our first night there on Bastille Day, the deranged attacks on the promenade des anglais in Nice occurred. We were extremely saddened to hear the news. May the victims and their families and friends find peace. 

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DAY TRIPS FROM PARIS: FONTAINEBLEU

If you value your sanity, skip Versailles. Go to Fontainebleu. Yes Versailles is grand and its scale is breathtaking, but its also extremely crowded with noisy queues that stretch from the palace entrance all the way to its golden gates. Fontainebleu in comparison is peaceful, quiet and queue-free. 

The Chateau de Fontainebleu has been home to many French royal families throughout the centuries. Highlights of grandeur of the chateau include the throne room, the emperor’s and empress’ private chambers, the library, the grand ballroom, and the illustrious chapel. 

After a relaxed tour through the chateau of and gardens of Fontainebleu, you can easily take a small balade through the great forest of Fontainebleu. There are over 20 hiking trails. We took our car to drive to one with big rocks that you can climb. Stop by the tourist office to get a map with all of the trails and find one that suits your fancy. 

Fontainebleu is accessible by train, although by car is probably easiest to avoid weekend train delays and to access more hiking trails. Highly recommended if you need a break from the city and want to avoid throngs of camera-toting tourists.

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BONNE ADRESSE: GRAND TRAIN 

Fancy a drink outside this summer in Paris? Check out le grand train, a sprawling 6000m^2 bar hosting rotating food stations in an old train parking lot. Food options include pizza, chicken and waffles, hot dogs, ceviche, chicken wings, korean food, and more. And yes, there are actual vintage sncf trains! Open until October 16th, 2016. 

Address: Grand Train 26ter, rue Ordener Metro line 4, marcadet station 11am - 11:30pm

Tips: -Go early, this place closes at 11.30pm because of its proximity to residences -Even though there’s plenty of seating options around, the place does fill up quickly -Make sure to explore! There’s lots to see. 

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THINGS THAT HAPPEN WHEN YOU MOVE TO PARIS

You eat tons of carbs like you never did before (bread with every meal, yes please!).

You say “bonjour” and “au revoir” to everyone.

You eat your eggs runny.

You buy groceries for only 1–2 days at a time.

You are so used to bureaucracy and red tape that when you don’t have to provide a complete dossier to accomplish something, you are really shocked.

You curse reflexively in French.

You get used to drinking tiny espressos and can no longer finish giant cups of coffee at Starbucks like you used to.

You have at least 1–2 items from Picard in your freezer at all times.

You have once brought something from Picard to a party.

You have enjoyed a proper meal of apero, starter, main dish, and cheese plate/dessert, capped off with more conversation at the end over coffee and/or a digestif.

You have had your life inconvenienced by a strike (or 2, or 3…).

You know some bus routes in addition to the metro lines.

You can survive without air conditioning, even in stores (although really, sometimes it is just still too hot).

You have learned a little bit of “verlan” (c’est ouf! = c’est fou! ma meuf = ma femme).

You shorten a bunch of French words (dejeuner = dej, ordi = ordinateur).

You wear Adidas sneakers (preferably Stan Smiths or Superstars).

You have a strategy for the twice a year soldes.

If you are American, people ask you about Donald Trump and shootings.

You line up to buy a baguette from the boulangerie.

You have rode the Eurostar or other Thalys train.

You have hopefully made at least one French friend who helps you navigate life in France.

You have gone to the bank on a Monday or during their 12–1:3opm lunch hour, only to discover that the bank is closed. Rookie mistake.

When you meet up with your friends, you greet each and every one with “bisous”. And when you leave, you do the same thing.

You can drink good wine for under 5 euro. You can drink great wine for under 10 euro. You can drink excellent wine for under 20 euro.

You have learned the names of at least 5 different cheeses.

You know how to slice the cheese properly.

You still enjoy watching the Eiffel Tower sparkle at night on the hour.

You think the Tour Montparnasse is ugly.

You start to call CDG “Roissy” instead of “Charles de Gaulle”.

You have learned to watch out for and avoid dog poop on the sidewalk.

You have drank 1664 beer.

You have ate an entire baguette by yourself.

You have driven through many round-abouts.

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ESCAPE FROM PARIS: EXPLORING THE CHAMPAGNE REGION

While my parents were in town for graduation, I took them on a day trip to the Champagne region. In case French people didn’t already beat the message into your head, only wine made from vines grown in designated land in Champagne may bear the label of “Champagne.” The certification of Champagne is controlled by its own association and the government. 

There are two main options for exploring Champagne: Epernay, with its impressive Avenue of Champagne, and Reims, with its stately cathedral. Both are home to big names in Champagne such as Taittinger, Ruinart, Moet and Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Vranken Pommery, and Mercier. The aforementioned houses happen to offer cellar tours that give you an insight into the champagne-making process. Reserving in advance is recommended and can usually be done online. 

I picked Reims for this trip because I had already visited Epernay with my school. I booked an English-speaking tour at Vranken Pommery, which someone on TripAdvisor dubbed as “more of an art tour than a cellar tour.” Frankly, all of the champagne tours are a bit touristy, but I feel it’s a must for anyone’s first visit to champagne. 

Tips: -Some champagne houses accept drop-ins, but booking in advance guarantees the tour/language of your choice. -Champagne is accessible by train, but it’s advisable to book a car so that you may drive around the region and explore some of the vineyards as well as the smaller champagne houses. -The tour was fine but my family enjoyed the drive through the vineyards the most! Stop by the local tourist center to pick up a map with all of the scenic driving routes. You will see black signs on the road with “route touristique” that guide you. -The temperature in the cellars can be chilly, around 50 degrees Farenheit. Bring a sweater.  -Cellar tour prices range from 10 euros (Mercier, Mumm), to 70 euros (Ruinart). Most tours are between 17-25 euros (Veuve Clicquot, Pommery, Taittinger, Moet & Chandon). 

Champagne Houses in Epernay (not exhaustive!): Moet & Chandon, Mercier, La Fond, Pol Roger, Perrier Jouet, de Castellane, de Venoge 

Champagne Houses in Reims (not exhaustive!):  Ruinart, Veuve Clicquot, Vranken Pommery, Taittinger, Mumm, Charles Heidsieck, G.H. Martel

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ICE CREAM BREAK: MAGNUM POP UP SHOP

Last weekend I took my friends to visit the Magnum ice cream bar pop up shop to customize our own ice cream bars. After we finished our ice cream masterpieces, we sat down and finished them in the nearby Jardin Rosiers-Joseph Migneret. This small garden is a little bit of a hidden piece of the marais for some peace and quiet. 

How it works: 1. Choose your ice cream flavor (vanilla or chocolate) 2. Choose the coating (milk chocolate, dark chocolate, or white chocolate) 3. Choose 3 toppings (many to choose from! I couldn’t resist making my bar pink themed) 4. Choose your chocolate drizzle for extra panache (again, more chocolate options)

Each ice cream bar costs 5 euros. There’s usually a queue but the line moves quickly. Open until September 11th, 2016. 

Magnum Pop-Up Shop 3 rue de Rosiers 75004 Paris

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BRUNCH IN PARIS

Remembering life back in New York, I always likened brunch to a bloodsport: the competition was fierce and all of the spoils (usually in the form of bottomless mimosas and a prime seating spot) went to the victors. 

Brunch in Paris isn’t quite such a big thing, but that doesn’t mean that the spots that are known don’t fill up quickly. Here are a few of my favorite places:

Ellsworth (pictured above) near Opéra This cozy resto fills up fast, I usually try to grab a spot at the bar. It’s “tapas style”, so order a few dishes and share.

Holy Belly near the Canal (pictured above) Best get here EARLY or don’t even bother. Always packed on the weekends. I came here on Monday at 9am and every table was filled! Simple menu, great food. 

Cafe Oberkampf in the 11eme (pictured above) This coffee shop serves simple and hearty breakfast and brunch fare: shakshuka, grilled cheese sandwich, and avocado toast. I also always order the chai tea. 

Eggs & Co. in Saint Germain de Pres (pictured above) Each dish (eggs benedict, eggs florentine, etc.) on the brunch menu comes with juice, coffee, pancakes, and fresh fruit! Come hungry. Cute farmhouse decor. 

On my list to try: Rachel’s, also near the Canal

Unfortunately, most of these places aren’t that big. Go early or expect a little bit of a wait :)

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WORTH A VISIT: THE MENAGERIE AT THE JARDIN DES PLANTES

Just like the Central Park has a small zoo, the Jardin Des Plantes also has a menagerie. It’s much bigger and has way more animals than it looks! There are definitely surprises around every corner to delight even the most jaded adult. 

Maybe next weekend I will make it out to the larger and recently refinished Parc Zoologique. 

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PRINTEMPS À PARIS

It’s official: it’s definitely springtime in Paris. The tree-line avenues are starting to get their green back, and the parks and gardens are coming to life. Grab your allergy meds, a good book, and head outside to read in a park. 

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SEEING CIRCLES

When you walk around Paris enough times, you start to notice certain things...

via Instagram

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PARIS LA NUIT

Random shots from walking around Paris at night. One thing my friend noticed when she came to visit me: “Paris is so quiet!”. I suppose it’s true - if NY is the city that never sleeps, then Paris is the city that values its apéro and a decent night’s sleep. 

Follow me on Instagram.

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LIFE AMONG THE TULIPS: DAY TRIP TO GIVERNY, HOME OF MONET

I love Paris, but every so often one needs to escape the city. Giverny is about an hour drive northwest out of Paris, making it an easy 1-day trip. The city is located in “high Normandy” and is known for the gardens and family house of the impressionist painter Monet. 

Monet invested a lot of time and effort in building his gardens, creating his own pond and building bridges to recreate some of the scenes he saw in Japanese woodblock prints. His friend and fellow painter Caillebotte lived nearby; both were avid horticulturists. 

Tips: -You can buy tickets online in advance and skip the line if you wish, it’s a tiny bit more expensive. We did not do so, opting for the house + museum ticket combo student rate for 10 euros.  -Enjoy lunch at restaurant Baudy, in the spring and summer there’s an outdoor terrace. Avoid the museum café (slow service and and not such great value) -There’s something to see in every season: right now it’s the prime time for tulips, but in the summer the famous water lilies and many roses are in bloom -The impressionist museum doesn’t actually have that many works of Monet (for that you will have to visit Musee D’Orsay, the Louvre, or the Metropolitan Museum of Art in NY), but there is a great collection of works by Caillebotte and other impressionist painters -No animals allowed! Sorry, leave Fido at home. 

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TEA, PASTRIES & CHILL IN PARIS: LA GRANDE MOSQUÉE DE PARIS

For a relaxing afternoon of tea, coffee, and shisha, install yourself in one of the many spots at La Grande Mosquée de Paris. Getting a coveted garden spot on a busy weekend can be tough, but it’s worth the wait and the random stalking of people who look like they are done with their shisha and tea...

There’s also a hamam and a full-service restaurant. If it’s crowded, don’t let that deter you. Just linger around until a table frees up and pounce. There’s no point in asking the waiter to put you on a list. It’s every person for him/herself in this bustling place. 

La Grande Mosquée de Paris 2bis Place du Puits de l'Ermite, 75005 Paris

For more pics, follow me on instagram! @supparis. I promise you, no pictures of kale salads, yogurt, or coffee.