wordscene

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Nero's deadline

I haven’t translated any Cavafy for a while, so here goes with this little poem on a historical theme from 1918: Nero was not at all concerned when he heardthe Delphic Oracle say:‘Beware the 73 years.’He has time enough to enjoy.He’s thirty years old. More than enoughtime the god has given himto take care of future dangers. Now he will return to Rome a little tired,but exquisitely tired by this…

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Visting a Florentine paper marbler and bookbinder

In a narrow alleyway called the Via dei Velluti, off the road that runs past the Pitti Palace, lies a little gem of a shop that is not well signed. Giulio Giannini e Figlio has been in business since 1856 when it was founded by Pietro Giannini. There’s no sign on the outside and just two windows one looking into the stationary and paper shop, the other into the little bindery. A massive, old…

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The King of Asine by Seferis

‘and Asine…’ The Iliad All morning we looked around the fortressbeginning with the part in shadow there wherethe green, lustreless sea – the breast of a dead peacock –received us as if there were no time gulf.The veins of the rock descended from on hightwisted vines, naked and with many branchescoming back to life at the touch of the water,while the eye following them struggled to evadethe…

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William Morris and the Book

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Wells Cathedral West Front – a close encounter

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Exploring the world of William Morris – Kelmscott Manor 2

This is the second in a series of posts about William Morris – the first was published here Continuing a walk around Kelmscott Manor, the home that Morris rented from a local farmer, we go upstairs On the first floor is Jane Morris’s bedroom with a four poster bed covered with a rather chintzy (and unMorris-like) canopy and valance. A jewellery box made by Rossetti sits under a glass case on a…

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Exploring the world of William Morris - Kelmscott Manor 1

Visiting William Morris’s home, Kelmscott Manor, in high summer it is easy to see why he regarded it as ‘heaven on earth’. Just 3 miles from the town of Lechlade, it seems to be buried deep in the west Oxfordshire countryside. The Manor is only open 3 days a week (Thursday to Saturday) and has timed entries, so there is restricted access which, from my two visits over the past year seems, to…

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New portrait found of the last Emperor of Byzantium

Image courtesy of the Greek Ministry of Culture On his excellent podcast about the history of Byzantium (Byzantium & Friends), Professor Anthony Kaldellis interviews Anastasia Koumousi (Director of the Ephorate of Antiquities of Achaea) about the recent discovery of a portrait of the last Emperor of Byzantium. Constantinos XI Dragases Palaiologos died in the Ottoman siege of 1453 which ended in…

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Two poems of Cavafy's

I’ve just translated a couple of Cavafy’s poems, both on historical themes. The first one is a fictional tomb inscription for a young Alexandrian youth called Iasis; Iasis’s tomb Here lie I, Iasis, a youth of this great cityfamed for his beauty.Wise men admired me and also thoughtless,ordinary people. I’m equally glad for both of them. But because people considered me too much like Narcissus…

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Dodona - Greece's most ancient oracle

The ancient site of the Oracle of Dodona lies just off the Egnatia Odos motorway, the ancient Via Egnatia that connected Dyrrachium on the Adriatic coast of Greece with Constantinople. It sits on a plain surrounded by mountains, about 60 km from the port of Igoumenitsa and 20 km south west of Ioannina in north west Greece. According to ancient sources it is the oldest of the Greek oracles…

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Encountering the Marie Celeste

Came across this sailing ship just out of Corfu harbour on the way to the mainland Greek port of Igoumenitsa.

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Avoiding the crowds at Palaiokastritsa in Corfu

Palaiokastritsa is set on a beautiful cove on the west coast of Corfu, north west of Corfu town. We drove slowly through the town looking for somewhere to stop for a drink as visitors swarmed across the road to the beach. Giving up hope, we headed out on the road the other side of town that was so narrow that traffic lights had been installed to control the flow of cars. The road climbs steeply…

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Sun worshippers in Corfu

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Exploring the mountain village of Giannades in western Corfu

On a rainy day in mid September, we went to the little mountain village of Giannades, west of Corful town. As we sat drinking an excellent coffee above the main square taking in the view over the Ropa Valley towards the mountains opposite, the rain stopped and it began to brighten up again. The main square is in the newer part of the village, but just along the main road as it narrows there are…

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A Glimpse into Village Life at Sinaradhes Folk Museum in Corfu

It’s quite hard to find the Folk Museum in Sinaradhes, hidden as it is down a side street near the main church with few obvious signs to it in the village, but it is well worth a visit. It offers a glimpse into life in a mountain village between about 1860 -1960 and contains a wonderful collection of items, most donated to the museum by proud Corfiots. The museum occupies two floors. The first…

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Discovering the Kaiser's Throne in Corfu

Just outside the mountain village of Pelekas in western Corfu, on one of the highest points on the island, lies The Kaiser’s Throne, a viewing platform that gives a magnificent panorama over Corfu Town and the surrounding mountains and coast. Apparently it was Kaiser Wilhelm II’s favourite spot on the island. I’m not sure why it’s called the Kaiser’s throne in English as in Greek it translates…

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Sissi's Palace - exploring the Achilleion in Corfu

In mid September this year we visited the Achilleion, a few miles south of Corfu Town. As it was pouring with rain we thought it would be a good opportunity to spend some time inside and dry off a bit. Unfortunately, the Palace was closed due to renovation work so we had to shelter as best we could while looking round the gardens. The Achilleion is a palace built by Empress Elizabeth of Austria,…

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