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The Dior Autumn-Winter 2021-2022 Haute Couture Show
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The Making of Moordale
In this video, we show you how our latest yarn, Moordale, is made. Available to purchase from 6th January 2019, Moordale is a premium blend of the finest British wool and British Alpaca. Available in a pallete of complimentary shades ideal for colourwork, but equally the knitted fabric, using a single shade is special enough to make a favourite piece of knitwear. To find out more, go to knitrowan.com
juno embroidery
Roanna Wells
Kim McKechnie / handwoven and stitched in silk, pine and linen
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Elementary Wrap In Tussock
If you’ve ever savored the first sip of strong steaming coffee or celebrated the discovery of a twenty in an old jacket pocket, then you know that joy can be found around any corner. Our Elementary Wrap in our newest yarn, Tussock, celebrates simple surprises and uncomplicated pleasures.
Holding two strands of our mohair-silk Tussock together, this knit flies off your needles in a glowing, soft halo. We love using two different colors for a marled texture that adds depth to an otherwise super simple flat piece.
In our version, brilliant Bright Thistle glimmers through rich Ripe Boysenberry, but we also love combos like Blue Lagoon and Balsam Green, as deep as the ocean, and Orange Pekoe with Wild Guava for a reflection of fall’s beauty.
Often, simple doesn’t mean easy, but with our Elementary Wrap in Tussock you get both. For yourself or a loved one, this wrap is rich and deep, curiously luminous and absolutely beautiful!
Materials
Yarn A: 3 skeins of Purl Soho’s Tussock, 60% super fine kid mohair and 40% silk. We used Bright Thistle.
Yarn B: 3 skeins of Tussock. We used Ripe Boysenberry.
You will also need…
US 6 straight or circular needles
And four more color combinations that we think are just as pretty!…
Gauge
24 stitches and 26 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Size
Finished Dimensions: 18 inches wide x 73 inches long
Notes
Throughout this pattern you will hold two strands of Tussock together as you work. The easiest way to do this is to pull from two balls at once.
Pattern
NOTE: We followed our original Elementary Wrap pattern but with a few tiny changes. Here it is exactly how we did it for this Tussock version…
Holding Yarn A and Yarn B together, cast on 108 stitches.
Row 1 (wrong side): K1, p1, k1, purl to last three stitches, k1, p1, k1.
Row 2 (right side): K2, p1, knit to last three stitches, p1, k2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures approximately 73 inches, ending with a wrong-side row.
Bind-Off Row (right side): Bind off in pattern.
Weave in the ends and wet block flat.
Strathendrick
The landscape which surrounds my home provided perfect inspiration for something I’ve long wanted to design - a statement allover sweater in which vintage colourwork combines with a contemporary look and shape.
Sizing Finished bust circumference: 164 (174, 184, 194) cm / 64 (68, 72, 76) in Sweater should be worn with 51-81cm / 20-32in positive ease Shown in the first size with 81cm / 32in positive ease at bust
Gauge 28 sts and 36 rounds to 10cm / 4in over colour work pattern and stockinette in the round using gauge-size needle. Gauge was achieved with 3.25mm / US 3 needle
Yarn Kate Davies Designs Milarrochy Tweed (70% Wool; 30% Mohair; 100m / 109yds per 25g ball) A: Hirst; 9 (10, 10, 11) x 25g balls B: Ardlui; 2 (2, 2, 2) x 25g balls C: Lochan; 5 (5, 6, 6) x 25g balls D: Garth; 2 (3, 3, 3) x 25g balls E: Campion; 2 (2, 2, 2) x 25g balls F: Stockiemuir; 1 (1, 1, 1) x 25g balls
Needles and notions Gauge-size and below gauge-size circular needles of appropriate length for working body. Below gauge-size circular needle of appropriate length for working neckband.
Gauge-size and below gauge-size needle(s) of your preferred type for working small circumferences. 6 stitch markers. Waste yarn for provisional cast on and reinforcing steeks. Optional: ribbon or bias tape for finishing steek edges
Pattern notes The sweater is cast on provisionally and worked in the round to just below the underarms, where sleeve shaping is worked outward. Armscye steeks are added, followed by another steek to create the neckline shaping, and the sweater body is worked up to the shoulders, whose stitches are then grafted. After cutting the armscye steeks, sleeves are worked from the top down, and ribbing worked around the neckline after cutting the final steek. The sweater is finished by adding ribbing for front and back hems separately. Where only one number is given this applies to all sizes.
Special techniques (explained in pattern, or via linked tutorials) Steeks; two-colour grafting; keeping pattern correct; working shaping in pattern; provisional cast on.
Two shade Strathendrick in Milarrochy Tweed
15 (16, 17, 18) balls shade A (Ardlui) 3 (4, 5, 5) balls shade B (Horseback Brown)
Daybreak Scarf
In The Odyssey, the goddess Dawn is invariably called “rosy-fingered Dawn,” and as such, she tends to bring good things: brightness, blooms, birth, sky-touching. The rosy warmth of our Daybreak Scarf embraces the same optimism, bringing with it substance, depth, and a heady outlook on a new day.
Our Daybreak Scarf, knit up in Rose Granite Cashmere Merino Bloom, is a super soft layer for any kind of odyssey: over mythological seas or through early-morning subway commutes.
We suspect it will become a new classic for chilly days both close to home and on epic adventures. The stitch, the same one traditionally used for sock heels of socks, makes for an exceptionally cushiony, lofty, cozy scarf.
Plus the pattern is simple and speedy. If only Penelope, at her loom, had access to such craft. It’s an easy two-row repeat, where both rows are just knit one, slip one. From there, it’s your tale to tell: “Soon Dawn appeared and touched the sky with roses!”
Designed for Purl Soho by Joelle Hoverson.
MATERIALS
6 skeins of Purl Soho’s Cashmere Merino Bloom, 75% extra fine merino wool and 25% cashmere. We used the color Rose Granite.
US size 6, 24- or 32-inch circular needles or 12-inch straight needles
GAUGE
25 stitches = 4 inches in stitch pattern
SIZE
Finished Dimensions: 15 inches wide x 82 inches long
NOTES
Stitch Multiple
You can cast on any odd number for this pattern.
Shape
This scarf will tend to roll in on itself a bit. That’s why we made it extra wide, and we think it’s super cozy and beautiful how it curves into your neck!
PATTERN
Cast on 101 stitches.
Row 1 (right side): K1, *slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, purl to last stitch, slip 1 wyif.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 82 inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 2.
Bind Off (right side): Loosely bind off in stitch pattern.
Weave in the ends and block.
MATERIALS
Our Soumak Scarf Bundle includes enough yarn to make one scarf. It includes….
Warp Yarn + Weft Yarn A: 3 skeins of Purl Soho’s Understory, 50% baby alpaca, 25% baby yak, and 25% silk.
Weft Yarn B: 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino, 80% extra fine merino wool and 20% mulberry silk.
Choose from three color palettes…
SILVER BERRY (Shown above, we used this palette for our sample): Understory in Silver Berry + Mulberry Merino in Peach Stone
WILLOW BARK (left): Understory in Willow Bark + Mulberry Merino in Field Mouse
PINK EARTH (right): Understory in Pink Earth + Mulberry Merino in Baby Fawn
You’ll also need…..
Schacht Spindle Company’s 15-inch Cricket Loom (and the 8-dent, 15-inch Reed that comes with it)
1 tapestry needle
STRUCTURE
Plain Weave + Soumak Weave
WARP
Warp Length: 96 inches (includes 26 inches of loom waste)
Warp Ends: 114
Width in Reed: 14 inches
Ends Per Inch (E.P.I): 8
Picks Per Inch (P.P.I): 10
SIZE
Finished Dimensions, Unblocked: 12 1/2 inches x 74 1/2 inches long with a 1/2 inch fringe
Finished Dimensions, Blocked: 12 1/4 inches x 74 inches long with a 1/2 inch of fringe
NOTES
Using The Cricket Loom
Cricket Looms come with a very user-friendly instructional booklet that walks you through every step of the weaving process, from assembling the loom to tying the fringe. For even more guidance, check out our Cricket Loom Tips.
Working Soumak Weave
To begin, place the heddle in neutral position and thread a tapestry needle with approximately 30 inches of Weft Yarn B.
Set Up
Starting from the right and moving left, pass the threaded needle over the first 2 warp threads.
Then moving right, bring the needle back under the first 2 warp threads.
Pull the yarn through, leaving a 3-inch tail lying on top of the first 2 warp threads.
Continue
Moving left, pass the threaded needle over the next 4 warp threads…
… then moving right, back under the previous 2 warp threads, coming out above the warp and creating a loop.
Pass the needle through the loop and pull tight.
Repeat by passing the threaded needle over the next 4 warp threads to the left, then back under the previous 2 warp threads to the right, pulling the needle out above the warp threads and through the loop.
Continue in this pattern across the width of your warp.
PATTERN
Warp The Loom
Set up the warping peg 96 inches from the front of the loom.
Tie one skein of the Warp Yarn to the back apron bar.
With a 8-dent reed in place, begin threading the heddle by pulling the first loop of yarn through the second slat from the right end of the reed.
Working from right to left, thread the next 56 slats, so there are 57 slats threaded in total.
Tie the yarn to the back apron bar.
Wind on the warp using paper to separate the layers.
Working from right to left, thread the yarn through each of the holes on the heddle.
You should have a total of 114 warp threads.
Tie the warp threads on to the front apron bar in groups of 6.
Weave
Wind a shuttle with Weft Yarn A.
With scrap yarn, or using the Weft Yarn doubled, weave a couple of inches until the warp threads are evenly spread out.
NOTE: When you pass the shuttle through the shed for the first row, leave a 36-inch tail, which you will use at the end for finishing.
**With Weft Yarn A, weave in plain weave for 16 rows.
With Weft Yarn B, weave a row of soumak weaving (see Notes, above).
With Weft Yarn A, weave in plain weave for 20 rows.
With Weft Yarn B, weave a row of soumak weaving.
With Weft Yarn A, weave in plain weave for 4 rows.
With Weft Yarn B, weave a row of soumak weaving.
With Weft Yarn A, weave in plain weave for 4 rows.
With Weft Yarn B, weave a row of soumak weaving.
With Weft Yarn A, weave in plain weave for 10 rows.
With Weft Yarn B, weave a row of soumak weaving.
With Weft Yarn A, weave in plain weave for 26 rows.
With Weft Yarn B, weave a row of soumak weaving.
With Weft Yarn A, weave in plain weave for 4 rows.
With Weft Yarn B, weave a row of soumak weaving.
With Weft Yarn A, weave in plain weave for 7 rows.
With Weft Yarn B, weave a row of soumak weaving.
With Weft Yarn A, weave in plain weave for 14 rows.
With Weft Yarn B, weave a row of soumak weaving.
With Weft Yarn A, weave in plain weave for 3 rows.
With Weft Yarn B, weave a row of soumak weaving.
With Weft Yarn A, weave in plain weave for 3 rows.
With Weft Yarn B, weave a row of soumak weaving.
With Weft Yarn A, weave in plain weave for 3 rows.
With Weft Yarn B, weave a row of soumak weaving.
Repeat from ** 6 more times.
With Weft Yarn A, weave in plain weave for 16 rows.
Leave a 36-inch tail of weft yarn for finishing.
FINISH
For a complete how-to on this step, visit our Finishing with Hemstitch Tutorial. Use the 36-inch tails to finish each end of the scarf with a hemstitch.
Make the hemstitch around groups of 6 warp ends across the width of the scarf.
Cut the fringe 1/2 inch from the end of the weaving and weave in the hemstitch tails.
Weave in the tails of each soumak row directly under the row, on the side of the scarf that wasn’t facing you as you were weaving. This will create a nice, neat row and make the tails practically invisible!
Gently hand wash your finished scarf in cold water, laying it flat to dry.