111

Retired blog. I'm not updating it anymore. Just keeping it for the archive.

[missmyloko]

Aside from the use of hikizuri, how else does kimono kitsuke in the karyukai differ from that of the Japanese public?

Short Answer: EVERYTHING, with like, 1 exception.Long Answer: The only items I can think about that are the same as regular people are tabi and zori. So, let’s look at the major parts (besides hikizuri).UnderwearWhen a normal person wears kimono they often just wear a juban and then the kimono, although it’s “proper” to wear the entire layer beneath that, which is the hada juban and slip. But, maiko and geiko will always wear the hada juban/slip and almost always use the two piece juban set comprised of a han juban and susoyoke. For some formal occasions they may wear a full juban (nagajuban), but this is only used by geiko. EriNormally when an average person wears an eri it’s sewn directly onto their juban. However, maiko will wear their eri as a completely separate entity from their juban, which is called a Shitate Eri. Technically there’s nothing stopping you from owning your own shitate eri, but most people find it to be a hassle. Maiko’s collars are also made with intricate and lavish embroidery that goes above and beyond what an average person would own (or could even buy).KimonoThis is specifically for when they’re not wearing hikizuri, so we’re talking about everyday komon to houmongi worn at ozashiki. Maiko kimono will always have shoulder tucks in them, which were originally sewn into the sleeves of kimono for children so that they could grow out into the kimono. Now they’re just symbols of childhood, but regardless of formality a maiko will always have them. Whether they’re in everyday komon or allowed to wear a houmongi as a senior in some districts you will always see the tucks without fail. When it comes to geiko the houmongi are of extremely high quality; this isn’t to say that you couldn’t buy houmongi like them, but that most people wouldn’t be able to afford that kind of kimono on a regular basis. Both geiko and maiko wear their everyday kimono and houmongi pulled down slightly at the back so that their neck is showing as this is a hallmark of their trade. This is accentuated when they wear hikizuri, but it’s a noticeable difference once you compare them to the kitsuke of regular people.ObiI know I’ve stated it before around here numerous times (the search bar is your friend), but even a geiko’s obi has significant differences when compared to your average fukuro or maru obi. Not only are they longer, but the patterns are also placed in a way called Hikinuki. Obviously a maiko’s obi is extremely long (6m/20ft) and contains a kamon at the end, which is something that hasn’t been worn by anyone outside of the profession in well over a century. ObiageOnce again, maiko obiage go above and beyond what a normal person would wear, not only with decoration but cost too (a “cheap” new maiko obiage for everyday wear will set you back $300 at minimum). While geiko do wear subdued obiage, especially after they’ve been active for a while, they’re still extremely high quality ones that are white with red shibori. You can go buy them at some stores around Kyoto but, like the maiko, the cost is extremely prohibitive ($200+ on the cheap side).FootwearThe maiko have the most obvious example with their extra tall okobo geta. Geiko also have special geta called Senryo Geta; although you could go to a traditional shoe store in Kyoto and buy them, it’s not exactly easy to find a pair of senryo geta for yourself. Plus, a new pair of senryo geta from said shoe store will set you back a cool $300 for a plain pair.

[missmyloko]

Hi! Could you give us more details about maiko and geiko's daily routines? I'm curious about what they do in the morning, since I remember you saying they start class in the afternoon. Also, you said it takes an hour to put on the oshiroi, and then they are dressed by an otokoshi. How long does it take them to get dressed? Is it included in the make up's hour? I'm having a presentation about maiko and geiko next week and I really wanna emphasise how hard they work. Thank you so much in advance!

When you start classes depends on your seniority. However, most lessons for maiko and geiko start in the morning and will continue past lunch after a break. Shikomi are an exception as they will have their lessons in the late afternoon once everyone else has had their lessons. Maiko and geiko will get up around 8am to be ready for their morning classes. It’s customary for maiko to do their rounds of thanks before classes start as most will not have time in the afternoon after their classes end. Most classes start between 9-10am depending on the teacher and classes will usually end between 2-3pm in the afternoon. Multiple classes are taught daily, usually 45-60 minutes in length, so once one class is finished a maiko or geiko goes to another one. Lunch is usually taken around 11:30 and lasts for half an hour.From 2-3:30pm (approximately) maiko and geiko will do their rounds of thanks if they didn’t already do them in the morning before classes. It’s customary that they thank the okasan of whatever establishment they entertained at the night before, will be entertaining that day, or even one that they met on the street between classes. Usually geiko will be the ones doing their rounds at this time as maiko will be the first ones to be dressed in the afternoon so they have to put their makeup on starting around 3pm. At around 4pm the dressing begins. This is when the otokoshi will begin their rounds to dress everyone, so maiko and geiko have to be ready with their makeup on by this time. Since it usually takes half an hour to do their makeup they tend to start around 3:30pm, with newer maiko starting around 3pm. An otokoshi can dress someone in as little as 5-10 minutes for everyday ozashiki, so it’s a fairly quick process.The first appointments of the evening in ochaya begin at 5pm sharp, so everyone must be ready to go by 4:30pm at the latest. An ozashiki lasts for an hour and a half on average. Maiko and geiko can be called to as many ozashiki or events that they can fit into their schedule, even if they don’t stay for an entire 45 minute duration. It’s quite common for customers to visit exclusive bars owned by geiko after ozashiki, so if a maiko or geiko is still free then she will accompany them there and continued to be paid for their time. The last ozashiki end between 12:30-1am, with most maiko and geiko returning to their okiya between 1-2am. Most will then take a bath and have a snack before going to bed around 3am. In total, they get about 5-6 hours of sleep each night and have lessons 6 days a week. Classes tend to be limited on Sundays, so they get a bit of a break then ^^

[missmyloko]

What are some good ways to determine the month a picture was taken for geiko? With maiko you can go by kanzashi generally, but geiko lack the flashy kanzashi. Are kimono motifs really the only way to tell or is there other ways?

Kimono motifs tend to be the only way with senior geiko or geiko who no longer wear any type of kanzashi. It requires a bit more research, but it’s not impossible ^^

[missmyloko]

Could you talk a little about what Maiko wear through out every day while doing chores, going to class, visiting and other daily activities (not ozashiki) . Are these every day outfits also displays of the micro seasons? How often would a Maiko change her "every day" look. Because that seems like it could easily add up to okiyas having a massive amount of kimono just for Maiko to wear during the day! Okaasans have a big job putting together so many outfits!

During the day maiko will wear simple komon kimono, which are of the lowest formality and are meant to be worn everyday. As such, everyday wear isn’t as codified as “nicer” wear, so items worn during the Summer (June - September) can be worn at any time during the months, and the same is true for All Season (October - May) items. In the summer they may also wear yukata instead of komon kimono due to the heat. Since these can be changed out at any time and worn by maiko of any rank there isn’t really any need for specific seasonal pairings. A maiko may wear the same everyday kimono for a week or two at a time, then that same kimono may be worn by a different maiko in the same okiya ^^

[missmyloko]

How does the day of a very senior geiko look like?

Very different from a normal geiko. Most senior geiko, who are natori either in dance or music (or both) will usually only take lessons once a week as that’s when they’re offered. They’re allowed to sleep in, and usually don’t require many courtesy calls (if at all) as their schedules are far more spread out. Most of these geiko run their own businesses, so they tend to look after them in the afternoon or just go out and enjoy themselves. Most senior geiko don’t work every day of the week (usually only a few days at most), so they have more time to enjoy outings with friends, or take up hobbies, or just do what they want to. The evenings are either spent at ozashiki or their own establishments ^^

[ponto-cho]

Interesting.

[missmyloko]

I want to pose a serious question: With so many great geiko (and sometimes maiko) leaving after 2 years or a long career of 10 years to get married, do you think that the tradition of a geiko must be non-married will ever change? Do (typically male) customers not want to be entertained by a married woman? Is anyone asking for this change?

That’s really hard to say as this is an issue that goes back to when geiko and maiko first became a legitimate profession. As stated numerous times before, geisha were opposites of housewives in that they were witty, entertaining, and outgoing. Men went to them specifically because they weren’t married, and thus were not expected to act like housewives. While society has changed a bit in the past 200 years, the overall social demeanor of a Japanese housewife hasn’t made too much progress. Wives are still expected to be subservient to their husbands, although this rapidly changing (I highly recommend reading The Asian Mystique by Sheridan Prasso for insight into this). So, for the time being I can’t really see any of the large kagai across the country changing this rule, although some of the smaller ones are far more relaxed and do allow for married geisha to work. For Kyoto in particular, I wonder if they’ll ever relax on something that’s so ingrained in their history, but for the long run it seems that tradition will win out over change.

[geimei]

What is the bag sort of thing that they usually are seen carrying toward them, in the higher part of their arm?

That’s a kago! The bottom part is basically a tightly-knit straw-basket, and the upper part is usually  made of silk and can be closed using drawstings.

(Source)

Maiko and Geiko use them to carry their personal belongings and things that they need for work, like dancing fans and veils, sensu fans or uchiwa fans, their businesscards (hanameishi), a pocket mirrow, powder, lipstick, a comb, a pen and a notepad, and depending on the Geimaiko and the type of event, maybe also a cellphone and their wallet.

Like any part of a Maiko’s or Geiko’s outfit, kago also have seasonal motifs on them and are matched to the season and the rest of the outfit.

[missmyloko]

In your opinion, what is 'hurting' the karyukai's future the most; less maiko / geiko recruits or less customers? Is there any way that this problem can be solved?

I’d say less customers as the economy, unlike the karyukai, is constantly in flux, and in times of financial stagnation or a major change in appropriating funds the effects are felt directly in the karyukai. By definition, the karyukai is a world built on dreams that are as lavish and refined as possible, so when people overall have less income to spend or choose to spend it in other ways then the karyukai is affected by this. The number of maiko and geiko has actually remained quite steady since the new millennium, which is a good sign as there had been steady decline ever since the 1960s and many feared that the karyukai would not survive in the 21st century; looking strictly at statistics, if the karyukai had continued its decline then the population of maiko and geiko in Kyoto by now would be around 100-150, rather than the 273 currently working (not including minarai or shikomi).On the issue of solving this problem, it’s one that’s actively been tackled since the reopening of the karyukai following World War II; as stated above, the customer base in the karyukai needs to remain constant in order for it to thrive, but how can the karyukai continue to survive when the waves of change continue to roll around? It is true that foreign interest in the karyukai is actually growing, but the “no first time customers” rule that the karyukai is built on is a giant factor in keeping them away. Places like Gion Hatanaka and Shigemori’s Maiko Theatre (and Gion Corner, to a lesser extent) offer tourists a chance to spend an evening with a maiko or geiko, but even now it’s usually only the girls from the “lesser” districts who actually entertain there. Gion Kobu and Pontocho, whose prestige is one of the reasons that it stays afloat, aren’t in immediate danger of failing as many people still want to become customers in the traditional sense. However, it’s also true that less and less people can actually afford ozashiki. Back in the days of the bubble economy in the 1980s and early 1990s the karyukai saw a bit of a resurgence in its customer base who were booking ozashiki at what was considered a “common” rate of at least one per month; nowadays the average customer, who likely does not even live in Kyoto, will host maybe 4-6 per year. That customer base is also aging, with younger Japanese people seeing the karyukai as too “old fashioned” and not worth the time and effort that it takes to become a regular customer. The younger generations are more content with hostesses, and it’s not exactly a secret that many maiko and geiko who have left the profession have gone on to become hostesses simply because the pay can be that good and they no longer have to undertake rigorous artistic training.In the end, both of these questions have been asked since the 19th century and will continue to be asked until the profession dies. How or when that happens in currently unknown, but the plans put in place to stop its decline must continue to be updated should the karyukai wish to stay afloat.

[missmyloko]

Why is an erikae considered to be so expensive? I thought it wouldn't be as the okiya needs to order a katsura only, with the kuromontsuki and other needed apparel being on hand... Why is the process so costly? *_*

It’s not just the katsura, which is quite expensive, but also the announcements and gifts that have to be handed out, and other new items, such as geta (which are also expensive). They also have to tip the person who’s going with them on their walk, and the person who dresses them as it’s a special occasion. The gifts that are given out are meant to reflect the wealth of the okiya and the new geiko, so how much is spent correlates to this, which is usually given back in monetary gifts from the okiya and ochaya that they greet when they do their rounds. Think of an erikae like a wedding: it’s a gigantic party where venue, food, outfits, and more are required. In return, the guests who come are meant to give a gift that’s equal to the cost of their plate, plus a bit extra. In the karyukai, the “plate” is the announcement gifts, and how much is paid back is equal to how often a customer or even ochaya entertains said new geiko. Like, even if a mokuroku is sent, a cash gift is always expected too for an erikae in order to give the new geiko a boost towards becoming independent ^^  

[missmyloko]

How much will a maiko’s day to day life change when she gets promoted to senior status? Will she now be allowed to learn certain dances, or take on certain responsibilities, or stuff like that?

As a senior she’s expected to take a senior role in everything that she does; this includes dancing the senior parts in various dances and making sure to set a good example to all of the maiko who are junior to her. She’s also aware that everyone in her community now expects a bit more out of her, and the mistakes that she made as a junior will not be tolerated now that she’s a senior (ie: being late or not displaying proper manners).

[missmyloko]

Are there different color of kanazashi and kimono and obi for all 72 seasons?

It’s not so much about one specific color as it is color pairings. Kanzashi are exempt as they follow a monthly calendar whereas kimono and obi go by the 72 seasons which changes every 5(ish) days.

[missmyloko]

What are some rules that all maiko and geiko need to follow in the karyukai? ^^

That could probably fill an essay, so in order to not confuse and/or bore everyone I’ll try to keep it simple. Some of the most important rules that must be followed in the karyukai are:-Respecting one’s elders: The golden rule of the karyukai, the junior must always obey the senior, even if they believe that the senior is wrong. In the karyukai the senior is always right and individual beliefs and thoughts must be suspended in order to follow their direction.-Paying deference to one’s elders: Following on the first rule, this involves a junior going out of their way to pay their respects to a senior; this can be as simple as bowing and thanking the senior when they see them walking down the street or actually going to their place of residence and thanking them in person. To ignore an elder is a grievous sin that looks bad on the person who made the slight and anyone associated with them (eg. onesan, okasan). The junior must also hold the noren open for their senior and walk behind them on courtesy visits.-Always be polite: This goes for both inside and outside of professional appointments. A maiko or geiko must always mind their manners, no matter the situation.-All rulings are final: If an onesan/okasan/teacher/etc. says that something must be a certain way, then it will be done that way or not at all. If a geimaiko is told that they can’t perform a dance in public then they cannot perform that dance in public. If they’re told to hold their hands in a certain position then they must hold their hands in that position. -The needs of others come before your own: Special attention must be given to others at all times to make them feel better about themselves. As gracious hosts it is a maiko or geiko’s job to make their customers happy about being in their company and must find a way to make it enjoyable for all involved. They must also perceive situations quickly in order for the best possible outcome to take place; for example, if someone sees an onesan walking down the street then they must hurry and prepare a greeting and figure out exactly how low they must bow in the span of about a second. They must take in their surroundings and be able to respond to anything that may happen, usually for the sake of those around them.-Takamakura suck, but they’re the only way to keep your hair in place: this is a maiko only rule, but all of them lament about how uncomfortable takamakura are. There simply isn’t another way to sleep with such intricate hairstyles, so they just have to accept its discomfort as a trial that will make them into better people.-You never stop being a maiko or geiko: knowing what their role is, they must remember that their behavior will always reflect on their district and those around them, so they must compose themselves accordingly in each situation that they face. Even on a day off they are still so-and-so from certain-kagai and must make sure that what they do will not look bad upon the reputation of their kagai or the people around them.

[missmyloko]

I read that for example the color of the juban changes from red to pink when a geiko goes from junior to senior. Are the any other clothing or accessories that changes color as a maiko becomes senior or a geiko becomes senior?

Yes, there are many! Some of the most obvious are:-Obiage: Turns from red to white as a geiko becomes more senior.-Obijime: Will eventually get lighter as a geiko becomes more senior.-Chinkoro: When geiko style their own hair they have a very small, white chinkoro tied in their hair (maiko have long, red chinkoro).-Kimono: Senior geiko dress in houmongi and no longer wear hikizuri on a daily basis.

[missmyloko]

What are the things that must be done right after the shikomi pass her test? What must be done from the test 'till misedashi? What are the order of things? How long from test to misedashi? One more thing: I see the girls perform sansankudo some time before misedashi and again on the same day of misedashi... why that? Do they have different meanings? If I can ask one more thing... what must be done from the sakko cutting ceremony to the erikae? How long does it take from ceremony to erikae?

That’s a loaded question, so this may take a while to go through.Right after a shikomi passes her maiko test the day of her debut is officially recognized (until then it’s a “maybe” date) and she will go to the shrine with her okasan to receive her new geimei. From the passing of the test to the date of her misedashi can be anywhere from 4-6 months. During this time the shikomi has to make sure that she knows all of the required dances before her minarai period, must perfect her use of Kyo ben, and continuously practice her basic mannerisms. In this time her okasan will set into motion the misedashi celebrations, including choosing an onesan, preparing the necessary gifts, and choosing the right outfit for the occasion.San-san-kudo can be done twice: one on the day of recognition of onesan and imoto (when the onesan is officially chosen for the girl) and once on the day of the misedashi when the new maiko is officially an active member of the community. Most ceremonies will only be done for the latter, but there’s no rule against doing it twice.Skipping ahead to the end of the apprenticeship, the time between the danpatsu shiki ceremony and erikae is approximately 36 hours. Maiko are given the day off before their erikae so that they can relax before their world becomes super hectic once again, as the yakko shimada and sakkō phases are practically non-stop visits to as many ozashiki as possible in the span of up to four weeks. Not much is done during this time off except to make sure that all preparations are in place, including the katsura, the outfit, the mokuroku, and the gifts. 

[ponto-cho]

Ichisayo and Ichikiku. Ichisayo had her Erikae in 2000, Ichikiku around 1995. Both of them are Geiko up until this day, so it’s hard to put a date on this photo. You can clearly see Ichikiku is wearing a double-lined Hikizuri - these are worn from December to March and Ichisayo wearing a Shibori Hikizuri, which is common in winter.. Ichikiku’s white hikizuri with red lining has a rare colour combination, the only other time I saw this was on Mamefuji (Gion Kobu) in March 2014.

[geisha-kai]

January 2017: maiko Ichiteru of Pontocho performing a celebratory dance for her Seijin-Shiki (Coming of Age Day) by  iromonograph on Instagram

[ponto-cho]

Fuji Musume - Shinahide - March 2007

Fuji Musume is a famous Kabuki dance which is sometimes performed by Geiko (i. e. for Setsubun Obake).