on the edge of the Arctic Circle

Art. Travel. Residency days in Húsavík, Iceland and my creative journal.

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Polaroids IV - Last day, view from Reykjavik, Shots of Pingvellir - a viking national park right outside Reykjavik, possibly in Game of Thrones // Jokulsaron aka Glacier Lake (one of my top tourist spots to visit) // me in the hostel in Akureryi, day 4. Overexposed path of my favorite walk in Husavik. That Which is Past, That Which is Now. 

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Polaroids II - Roadtrip from Húsavík to Seydisfjordur // Seydisfjordur with two more from Húsavík // Through the East Fjords to Hofn, and some horses on the South Ring Road.

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Polaroids II - Residency House + Room on last day, view from the north side of Husavik, snow melted, Arctic Circle due 50 Kilometers // Trip to Akureyri to drop Emma off at a gas station for a ride share // lookout over the inlet at the edge of the coast // Church in oldtown Akureyri, roadtrip with the Captain to Asbyrgi/Mana - a landscape that looked like the moon. // Turf Houses/Folk Museums we passed on our afternoon trip to the greenhouses. 

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Polaroids I - Húsavík.

The docks // Gamli Baukur - the restaurant/bar, writing letters watching to snow fall on the docks outside // the lighthouse // back way path to the hot springs // the bay from the beach (just south of the fishery/south of the docks). 

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I felt once more how simple and frugal a thing is happiness: a glass of wine, a roast chestnut, a wretched little brazier, the sound of the sea. Nothing else. - Nikos Kazantzakis

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The last morning in Reykjavík, before my flight back.

I cannot say how wonderful Iceland was, for my work in this time and also the stark beauty of the land. It really solidified my pull towards nature. I grew up in the forest, yet have spent much of my twenties in big cities, mainly Oakland and Los Angeles. My heart yearns for bare feet in the grass, the smell after a heavy rain, sunlight through the trees. Iceland is a community that is based on the land. The ability to exist in such a culture that is well-educated, yet set so apart from the consumerist world allowed me to return to my own grounding. I return to a big city, to the rat race, and the essential marketing of myself and craft to just prove that I can exist as part of society. I wonder if it is not where I will make my best work. However, not only can I revisit moments of solitude and beauty from this trip, but I understand my own self more, in traveling there, and will bring that with me and to my work wherever I can provide a space for it and myself.

That which is past, that which is now had it’s struggles and failures, as well as discoveries and success. I am now an internationally showing artist. Thank you to all who supported me through this journey, as well as all the many simultaneous journeys I often find myself on. I cannot adequately express my gratitude for this life and all the people who have become a part of it. But I can say that I am grateful for this ever expanding and encompassing heart, of which Iceland has opened up even more with love for myself, mother nature and all it’s creatures.

As to my work, I am so excited to paint and paint and paint, and create a visual story relating my experiences of Iceland. First, I must relocate my art studio in Los Angeles, find a stable job, and move back into my apartment. I can’t get that job done fast enough. I assure you good things will come. Everyone who supported this and followed along has gifted me with the ability to make these dreams come true. Thank you, to the moon and back. Icelanders aren’t ones for proverbs but I will end with two: Kemst þó hægt fari. You will reach your destination even though you travel slowly.( We rode slow, but we ride sure.) and Sá vinnur sitt mál, sem þráastur er. He who is most stubborn will win.(God is with those who persevere; Persevere and never fear.)

And keep posted, I think I’m going to keep this blog going with more film and adventures.

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On Saturday I bought the ticket and drove the 40 minutes out into the 800 year old lava field to the geothermal sea water and silica bed called the Blue Lagoon. It was touristy, yes, and my ticket was 55 Euros, plus a $30 bus ticket if I didn’t have a car. But, I think it was worth it. They have great lockers and changing rooms with hair dryers, cotton balls, etc. Blue Lagoon shampoo, conditioner, and body lotion for free use. With the 55 euro price I had use of a towel, and extra mud mask, and a free drink too. The lagoon was huge, with some deeper areas and shallow areas towards the lava rock walls. There was a bar, and I spent my free drink on a fresh citrus juice. They had champagne, beer, and smoothies too. A mud bar was at the other end, with buckets full of silica for use. Silica is a great mineral for the skin, and it created a white marble like coating on the rocks around the lake. It would break off in slates, rather than chunks. Though a spa or pampered like atmosphere the natural components of the place still made me feel very connected to nature while swimming in the lagoon. There was a waterfall to play in, and two steam rooms and saunas. After the silica mask I was able to use an algae mud mask. There weren’t too many people there in the morning, but by afternoon it was a bit crowded. It seems like the keep the cap at a level to not completely overcrowd so it was nice. I was able to kick my sickness a bit, and have amazing skin for the next week. 

In the summer, I think there are more natural (less monitered) hot springs around the Reykjavík area, including Gamla Laugin and Seljavallalaug. I would have loved to check them out as well, but during the winter things can be difficult to get to, and potentially having no changing area wasn’t in my best interest. Many locals are bitter about how touristy the blue lagoon has gotten, and will sway you not to go, but the water is quite wonderful, and amazing for your health, so I would recommend it. It was quite lovely. The same company owns the Myavtn Nature Baths I visited in the north, which I think the view is better, much less spa-like feel, but with volcanic hot water, rather than sea. Both amazing. I am certainly going to miss the water quality and the weekly swimming pools/hot spring tubs/saunas when I return to the states. An amazing routine to keep toxins out of your skin and bloodstream. 

Note: these photos are from a pool right outside of the blue lagoon facilities. 

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The next 4 nights I spent at a lawyers place via couchsurfing.com. I love couch surfing. I’ve met some of my greatest friends, still to this day, through the website. It’s gotten me across the country (USA) numerous times as well as helped me out in situations where I’ve been stuck while traveling. It’s an amazing thing, and I’ve learned much about local culture through the people I meet on it. Johannes was quite delightful and was a wonderful host. We had a pleasant Thursday night introducing me to Icelandic TV as well as really breaking down my questions on the recession and state of economics and law within the country. 

Friday I was planning on taking a day trip slightly north to Snaefells Peninsula and a small fishing town I heard was quite beautiful. I was missing the countryside quite a lot. I woke up with a migraine, though, and was pretty much paralyzed for a few hours until a fever broke me out of it. I was able to get out before sunset and make a 45 minute drive to Pingvellir, a national park northwest of Reykjavík. It was a beautiful day, and I was so happy to pull over and just exist in an expanse of white, with steam raising from the earth in one direction and mountains in the distant other. Just rolling hills of pure white. Pingvellir  is the site of the old parliament, where many vikings put people to death by trial. I hiked through the stone, felt the dark green moss, and walked over top a frozen river to get to a waterfall. Sun set and again the world around me turned the brightest pinks, peaches, and violets. 

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My first day in the city I spent the day at the hostel, recuperating from the trip, writing letters and catching up on blogging. It was terribly rainy and cold, and though that wouldn’t have stopped me exploring in the least, I needed to catch up on certain responsibilities I felt behind on. The second day I visited many of the museums. Reykjavík has a great international art scene, including many spaces for contemporary art. I fell ill for the weekend so I wasn’t able to see everything I wanted to see, but I was able to gain some Icelandic art history as well as be exposed to a few contemporary artists. My favorite exhibition was at the Museum of Photography. A native Icelander documented the country, as well as another place he had lived many years in and felt very close to - New Orleans and Louisiana. The similarities between the depictions were quite beautiful, and intriguing. Friðgeir Helgason shoots on medium and large format, and prints in color. 

Perhaps a tangent but possibly something interesting to mention, is the Icelandic tradition of last names. Icelanders take their father (or mother’s) first name and add dottír or son to it. So, Erik’s son is named Johanne Eriksson. If he had a son but wanted to pass his or his father’s name on, he would name him Erik Johannsson and the grandson could again be Johanne Eriksson, and so on for generations. 

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As I neared Reykjavík, the worries the city brings came impending over my head with a storm cloud of all the things I needed to do. The country is so simple, with adequate time to do everything you need to do and still find time to just sit still, and enjoy being present; smelling the roses, if you’d like. One thing I’ve realized during this trip is how much my heart yearns for the land, for barefeet in the grass, the smell of moss covered earth, the sound of birds in the morning and crickets at night. I liked when the wind was so strong it blew me over, and when the snow fell in big chunks and the mountains across the bay were made invisible, without a horizon between the sea and sky. I like the extreme heat, and the extreme cold, and whatever whims of the earth. I watched a documentary at the Volcano House in Reykjavík chronicling the 5 month eruption in 1973 as well as the 2010 and 2011 eruptions. There is nothing comparable to the beauty, strength, and majesty of the natural world, including the small moments that humans often make invisible. 

The first two nights I stayed in the Bus Hostel. The common room was large and quaint, with vintage furniture, a record player, a small bar, and coffee for 150ISK (amazing!). Two kitchens, private showers, but large rooms. I stayed in a 5 bunk/10 bed dorm - $25USD/night. Unlike my large hostel experience in London, where it was a huge party, people were generally in and out early, going on day trips, etc. Sad Cars also had a hub at the hostel, and I was able to rent a car for $25/day for a small day trip. 

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The Southern Ring Road

Iceland is much different in the south. It is considerably warmer and flatter, and though rural, it feels a bit more suburban as it is the main route of tourists. There are many tall waterfalls dropping from the mountains and rivers heading towards the ocean, though unfortunately I didn’t get any photographs of the waterfalls. But, here are a couple shots between Höfn and Reykjavík. Many farms and expanses of white. We visited some horses right off the main road, as well as passed some in the distance that seemed to be playing King of the Hill. Lots of reindeer in the southeast, and lots more telephone poles too. 

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February 22, 2016

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2012 "R.I.P." Honest Jons Records

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Jökulsárlón - Glacier Lake, Iceland. These photographs are digital, shot on a Mark III 5D, and unedited. The colors look stunning, though I remember being frustrated as the pixels weren’t even close to capturing the depth and accuracy of the sunset.

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Jökulsárlón, Iceland

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Almost two hours west of Höfn is Jökulsárlón, the glacier lake. This was one of the main attractions I wanted to see. The other few in my top 5 weren’t accessible in the winter, unfortunately, but here we were able to go for a decent walk and see the sun set. Much of it was frozen, and the glaciers were stuck in the middle of the lake, unable to move towards the sea until the summer. Chunks of broken ice covered the water up until the shore. Seals greeted us on our way in, playful and soaking up some attention. 

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I’m in Iceland!!!!