Project Cosplay This blog is about the behind-the-scenes aspect of the hobby. The process that makes it happen, tips, tutorials, memorable quotes, and the little moments that make it all worthwhile. Brought to you by mods (Xaynie & ElfGrove) and our cosplaying cohorts. Common Tags Armor Ask Us Cosplay Culture Make Up Taking Photos Tips & Tricks Tools Tutorials Quotes Resource Links Rules Sewing Shoes Wigs Works In Progress Finished Costumes Cosplay Moments
I was re-reading the conversation on body paints (for the life of me I couldn't remember where I'd read it the first time till you popped up on my dash, so thank you!) Anyhow, I was wondering if there were any recommended sealing products or tutorials? Most of the ones I've found are... lacking.(Or confusing?) Perhaps I'm simply not very good at searching, but I was hoping there might be some good recommendations. (If it matters I'm using Kryolan’s Aquacolor and some Ben Nye.)
I personally use Ben Nye’s Final Seal then powder over it with the Transparent Finishing Powder. It’s usually best to use the same sealing stuff that is recommended by the body paint you’re using as your primary as they’re designed to work together. Check the manufacturer for what they recommend.
Generally, I feel that the preference and experience of different sealers varies widely from person to person and that likely has to do with varied skin types and variations in personal application methods. Much like finding the right eyeliner, your mileage will vary.
How would you make a vega mask from street fighter?
Trying to cover some backlog here.
My first thought is to grab one of the blank plastic masks at your nearest craft store, use tape or foam to modify the shape to what you need, and then use Papier-Mache to make the Vega mask using the mask as a base form. Just seal with gesso or mod podge and paint. It’s an old school tried and true method for custom mask making.
Of course, there’s a few folk on Etsy that sell the mask pre-made and finished. There’s also a classic Venetian “Vega” mask that is exactly what he uses if you can find it affordably.
To use newer methods, I recommend pepakura. Folk have made and shared free models that work for Vega’s mask. Again, paint it once built.
I would also recommend using adhesive vinyl to cut out his blue logo for the cleanest finished look.
Photo of a shoulder pauldron for Lina Inverse from Slayers.
My favorite method of making armor or accessories nowadays has been the vinyl over foam method. I’ve used this method in the past. And it still continues to be my favorite method because it’s fast and lightweight.
In this pauldron, I used both foam and Worbla. The bottom piece is made from 10mm eva foam and vinyl wrapped. The tube holding the resin gem was made with worbla. I then added a layer of 2mm foam over the worbla, and then vinyl wrapped it. That way, I could remove the texture of the worbla without much work. Gone are the days of smoothing, waiting, sanding, and priming worbla! (I wish- I still use that method because some things just can’t be vinyl wrapped).
The vinyl I got from this batch was not in good shape so you can see the lines and grooves if you look very close, but it’s good enough for now! If you use this method, please make sure you get good quality vinyl! It’s essentially your “paint” so you want to make sure it is good quality.
Here is a quick way to create resin gems for your cosplay.
1) Buy clear cabochons in the size you want
2) Use metallic nail paint and paint a few layers. Make sure you use metallic paint as I’ve experimented with a few others and they do not provide the varying color effects.
The last picture compares ones painted with metallic paints vs ones painted with regular nail paints. Bottom left has metallic gems. Ones with glitter and ones without. The upper right has gems painted with normal nail paint except for the yellow gem which was painted with metallic paint as well. See the difference?
3) Glue polystyrene, silver scrapbook paper, or aluminum foil for backing so your paint doesn’t chip or tear away. Most use hot glue but I just use a very thin layer of Sobo (fabric/craft glue) and it does the trick. Enjoy!
We Are Glad to Help, But Please Provide Reference Pics!
We are more than happy to answer cosplay related questions, and you are welcome to ask us anything! However, in order for us to help, please provide reference pictures and/or links in your submission. Any messages asking for personalized advice without reference pictures will be deleted.
Our queue is completely full so we apologize beforehand if we do not get to your questions in a timely manner. We are trying our best. Thank you for your understanding.
Got your hands on one of those My Hero Academia jumpsuits from Spirit but would rather have a two-piece uniform? Look no further! I was in the same boat, so I threw together this quick tutorial on how to convert your costume and make it more accurate to the uniforms the characters actually wear!
A couple of really important notes before you proceed:
-This will only work if your uniform is too big on you! I’m smol and even the small size was too tall for me by several inches, in addition to the huge waist. You’ll need those extra inches to hem the jacket and the pants, so don’t go cutting apart your jumpsuit if you don’t have them!
-This only requires some basic sewing knowledge - basically you just have to hem and maybe take in a seam. You can use either a machine or hand-sewing techniques.
-This method minimizes marking misalignment (those neat “U.A.” stripes!!) by putting the size alteration of the pants in the center back seam. You still have to replace the zipper fragment in the center front seam, so not only do you need a couple of extra inches in the waist – the front seam will probably end up looking a little bit wonky up close, so this tutorial may not be for you if you’re a perfectionist.
Now that that’s out of the way, happy sewing! Followed by happy villain conquering!!
So if you know me at Project Cosplay, I try to find cosplaying solutions that don’t require the use of power tools or expensive specialty equipment whenever possible. Today a podcast I follow on twitter (@FanBrosShow) was looking for recommendations on throwing together an inexpensive Riri Williams/Ironheart costume, and I provided some advice for a quick closet cosplay. I figured since Project Cosplay hasn’t been getting much attention from me lately, I’d also share that quick cosplay advice here.
Riri is a pretty simple costume to closet cosplay and it shouldn’t require much more than a little money, and some glue and scissors.
A quick note of caution: When cosplaying a character you do not share the ethnicity of, be sensitive and self aware of potential issues with the costume. Do not tape your eyelids nor do your make up with the intent to “look asian”. Do not darken your skin tone to imitate an ethnicity that is not yours.
Pants: https://www.amazon.com/Caringgarden-Womens-Leggings-Tights-Contrast/dp/B01JA1YBC2/ or https://www.amazon.com/Leggings-Fitness-Patchwork-Stripe-Polyester/dp/B0756Z12CN/
Arc Reactor:
Buy this from an Etsy artist: https://www.etsy.com/listing/184901817/iron-man-arc-reactor-replica-prop
Buy this light up USB with retractable connector and attach it using double sided foam tape: https://www.amazon.com/MARVEL-REACTOR-LIGHT-FLASH-DRIVE/dp/B00CDZN0PW/
Cut out white adhesive reflective vinyl in as little or as much detail as you want and adhere it directly to the shirt: https://www.amazon.com/Avery-Hi-Energy-Reflective-Vinyl-Silhouette/dp/B076FCLK1L/
Wig:
It’s not difficult to find inexpensive wigs with a little searching, but here are some quick tips in choosing what to buy.
Always look at the on a wig head pics. Never trust the pics on a model, they’re usually stolen and not using the wig being sold.
When in doubt, but longer than you need. It’s easier to trim a wig than weft hair in.
Look at reviews and customer pics before purchasing. When that’s lacking, look for specific wig product reviews on you tube.
Be conscious of the shipping time and cost as a lot of the less expensive options are shipped from overseas.
When possible, look for wig stores and manufacturers you can trust to provide a consistent product and look for them by name.
Remember you usually get what you pay for. A lot of cosplay wigs are a case of “nice for the price”, not daily wear wigs.
I encourage searching more on Amazon, eBay, AliExpress, for a wig that suits the look you want, your price limitations, and shipping time.
Prop Iron Man Helmet:
Go to your local toy store and pick up a kid’s Iron Man Helmet, potentially on clearance: https://www.amazon.com/Rubies-Costume-Captain-America-Civil/dp/B01B8WW36C/
Make a papercraft helmet using a free pattern, scissors, cardstock/thin cardboard/poster board, and glue:
If you go the papercraft helmet route you’ll either want to paint it or use adhesive sheet vinyl to get a smooth final look. Adhesive vinyl is recommended that you use a fancy cri-cut machine, but for our purposes, scissors cutting the same pattern as the papercraft and careful application should do the job. I recommend Happpy Crafters for your vinyl and you should only need two large sheets in metallic god and red. https://www.happycrafters.com/oracal-651-glossy-adhesive-vinyl-large
If you want to see an example of adhesive glossy vinyl over papercraft, I did it for a low-polygon lion mask earlier this year.
Hey, could you help me figure out how to make the Catwoman mask. I'm struggling cause of the ears
I need more information on what materials you’re working with and what version of the Catwoman mask you’re attempting before I can help. What is it that’s not working?
Did I get your attention? Sometimes the best place to go for cosplay tips and tricks is the historical costuming community, and this one is a winner for all those school uniform and sailor scout skirts.
Now they don’t actually have to be permanent, depending on whether or not you use steam and press cloths, I recommend reading this article especially: [link].
Use anywhere from a 2:1 to 10:1 ratio of water (more) to white vinegar (less amt.) -- I also see a 50/50 or 75/25 balance recommended by other bloggers using a paper bag or press cloth application method. Some folks recommend adding a teaspoon or two of vinegar directly into the water tank of your iron.
Fill a spray bottle first then add the vinegar.
The strength of the scent of the vinegar will depend on how much you use but the smell will fade over time and within just a few hours.
Pleat up the fabric or trim in the Perfect Pleater and/or with pins or cards.
Spray solution directly onto cottons or linens.
Spray solution onto a press cloth and lay the cloth over the pleats.
PRESS pleats with iron on the fabrics heat setting; do not ‘iron’ the pleats by moving the iron – press down and hold
LET COOL! This is the one best hint to pay attention to.
Move trim out of the pleater and/or unpin the pleats; press again if desired
Apply to your costume and look beautiful!
Once the crease is set, all you have to do is hang your trousers, pants, jeans right out of the dryer, folded along the crease line and hang them up to avoid ironing touch ups. The odor of the vinegar will evaporate along with the steam, so you won't walk around smelling like a pickle all day.
If you mess up when setting your vinegar steam crease, you can also undo that crease with the same mixture, let the garment cool down, and start over again until you get it right.
Please note, the vinegar will only leave a permanent crease if the iron is hot enough to produce steam. This is another good reason to use a press cloth.
Iron your cosplay. I cannot stress this enough. If it can be ironed, take the time to iron it before putting it on. Take it out of your bag or box and iron it. It's a mundane detail that makes your costume look leaps and bounds better.
I'm not sure if this blog is still active, but.... Hey so me and a friend are doing a cheap-off. Basically, who can spend the least amount of money and get the best costume. We're doing Link and Zelda from OOT and I need a cheap as possible Zelda wig. Do you have any tips for making a $8 Walmart wig look like $30 good wig? (I didn't buy anything yet so don't berate me for Walmart!)
Haha. A lot of us do those cheapo solutions for fun occasionally.
To start with, scour your wal-Mart carefully for the best of the cheap wigs. The less modifying you need to do, the better. Keep in mind it’s probably not going to look very much like the photo on the front, but depending on your goal look, a blonde wig with blended colors is probably going to look nicer than plain party yellow. – There’s only so much you can do with lesser material as your starter because chances are it’s not going to be made of heat-resistant synthetics and thusly it can’t take the same tricks nicer wigs do. – What I’m saying is, it’ll probably melt if you try to take a curling or straightening iron to it, so don’t do that.
So you’ve got your Wal-Mart/Party City/etc Wig…
Try it on. Brush it out with a wide tooth brush. Look at what you’re working with.
Trim it to the lengths you need. Add layers and face-framing cuts if you think it’s appropriate. Between short and long wigs, get one that’s longer than you need and trim it, don’t try to add hair with this type of wig.
Reducing the shine on the wig will go a long way towards making it look nicer. Putting a little dry shampoo or baby powder on the wig then brushing it through so it doesn’t look “dusty” will reduce the cheap high-sheen look of a cheap wig. You can also rub down the fibers with a dryer sheet to a similar, but lesser effect.
If you need to style it (and you almost certainly will need to), use a round brush and your blow dryer on a low setting to style. Be ready to spend some time doing this, slowly.
If the wig has really difficult to remove kinks in it, a warm water bath followed by a low temp blow dry may be necessary to get them out. Again, given halloween wig materials, do not use high heat treatments
Hair spraying the wig while holding it upside down and waiting for the spray to dry before flipping it back (then styling further) will help add lift and body to the wig. Some texturizing spray or volumizing gel can also aid with styling. – Spray the wig with with a “freezing” hair spray to get it to stay styled once you’re happy.
https://www.facebook.com/events/152545745283574/
When: Friday, September 1st, 4pm EST
Where: Hilton Atlanta, Back Patio Steps D
Hey Voltron fans! Are you coming to Dragon Con 2017?
So are we! LET’S FORM VOLTRON at DragonCon 2017! This event is for Voltron fans to meet up, hang out, and take photos together.
We’re going to gather at 4pm on the Hilton back patio steps D. If you go out the back of the Hilton, it should be just outside the center glass hallway doors on the right side.
EVERYONE IS WELCOME! Any version of Voltron canon, crossovers, genderbends, alternate versions, etc as long as it’s themed around Voltron!
There will be a Voltron mini plushes giveaway provided by ElfGrove, so try to arrive on time! Winners will be chosen from names drawn from a hat.
More details about the gathering, photo pose requests, photographer info, and rules for the mini plush giveaway are posted here: [link]
HAVE YOU HEARD ABOUT THE GOOD NEWS OF OUR LORD AND SAVIOR, CHICAGO SCREWS??
Ya’ll…if you haven’t ever used these, sit down and take a peep. I needed to redo the belt covers for Leliana’s armor due to the fact that it took me, like, 15 minutes to put that stuff on when it should have taken less than 5. Originally, I bucked at making actual functioning buckles because I didn’t have time and I was hella lazy. (OHHOHOHO HOW THINGS CHANGE)
Enter CHICAGO SCREWS.
They’re the magical little bits of hardware often used in making belts and doing other leather work. They come in two parts - a male end and a female end (don’t laugh, it’s the truth).
I found a sizable pack on Amazon for a good price and bought that prompto. The finish isn’t the prettiest, but they were cheap and this is cosplay. ;)
I used my Dremel to drill small holes through the foam of the armor. I made some straps ahead of time with the intention of them becoming new belts and just reused the bridle buckles from the old covers. Added the buckles, stitched as necessary and punched a hole where the screw would go.
The female screw I inserted through the back side of the foam. It takes a little effort and can be tricky to do. Widen your holes if needed. Add the prepared strap over the top, secure with the male end and TA DA functioning belts that look good and will actually stay on your armor.
I used foam for my armor but you could absolutely use chicago screws with Worbla builds and the like. Just check the post length to make sure it’s long or short enough to accommodate your materials.
Available for Pre-Order: The Omni-Blade Cosplay Weapon
The Omni-Blade replica is made of K-Resin and includes an adjustable strap and a locking mechanism for displaying/securing the blade. The Omni-Blade also includes a display stand with the Mass Effect logo.
Okay, so I previously answered this question, but apparently people want this in more detail.
Note: My Shiro arm was basically made over a 3 day weekend (minus final gluing of hand pieces (drying time included, this takes a week or a week and a half) immediately after Voltron Legendary Defender season 1 was released. It’s not perfect, but I’m happy enough with it I have no plans to remake it. That also means I didn’t take a lot of progress pics. There is not a pattern, I free-formed it. Additionally I am a terrible influence and this is probably not a healthy example in so far as glue usage.
Things you’ll need:
Worbla Thermoplastic
Heavy Duty Scissors (for the Worbla)
Heat Gun
Mod Podge/Gesso/or other primer
Silver Spray Paint (of your choice)
Matte Black Acrylic Paint
Brushes and paper towels (or a rag)
Small sponge brush
A black stretch glove that fits as far up your arm as you want the “prosthetic” arm to go.
#0) Please read through all of the instructions before starting work to make sure you’re not missing anything you need.
#1) Try on your glove and make sure it fits without too much looseness at any point or excess material in the fingertips. If it doesn’t, modify it until it fits properly.
#2)Cut out your thumb joints from Worbla, using this pattern [source: Amethyst-Angel]. Using the heat gun, assemble the joint pieces, making certain they fit on your thumb over the glove. (You do not need to use Amethyst-Angel’s trick with the elastic cord here. Just create the loose pieces right now.)
#3) Cut the forearm pieces. so that when attached, they can wrap around your arm (over the glove) comfortably with enough overlap to allow room for your Velcro Dots to be used to connect them at the seam. There was no pre-planned pattern for these, so I will draw roughly what the pieces looked like.
These are not to scale and should be roughed out on paper and adjusted to fit your own arm. Cut two of the Black Outer Forearm shape, and sandwich them together using the heat gun for thickness. Cut two of the Red Inner Forearm (4 if you prefer to sandwich this part also) and attach them to the Outer forearm piece as shown in the diagram so that the overlap has the Outer piece on top of the Inner piece. Using the heat gun, set the entire piece in a bend so that it will wrap around your forearm like a bracer. The U shape at the top should match up to go around your elbow, and the two flat long sides of the Inner Forearm should match up and overlap on the inside of your arm.
SCROLL DOWN at any point to see the assembled but unpainted arm (no glue or velcro yet).
#4) Cut out the pieces for the upper arm cuff. In addition to the basic shapes shown below, cut a long ¾ inch wide strip of Worbla. The upper arm cuff should go all the way around your arm snugly, the combo of the glove and folded end of your shirt sleeve should keep it in place for wear. The slightly longer side of the cuff should line up with your elbow and the U shape of the forearm piece without actually touching them.
Heat up the upper arm piece and curve it into a solid circle that fits your arm (I doubled-up this piece, but it’s probably not necessary. Heat up the ¾ inch strip and attach it along the top (flat side) of the upper arm cuff, bending it outward slightly to create a better seam of prop to arm and sleeve. Cut off any excess.
Heat up the upper arm prongs and attach them to either side of the widest part of the cuff so that the prongs line up and sit underneath the upper parts of the U on the forearm when worn together and your arm is held straight out. (This will create a rectangle round your elbow..)
#5) Cut out and assemble the back of hand pieces. This is where I urge you to work slowly and carefully (and in increments) as to avoid burning yourself.
Please recall these are very general shapes, not exactly what I used as I did this without a pattern except for the thumb joints in step 2.
To assemble, heat =up the thumb side piece just enough to be malleable, not hot. Wrap it around the outside of your thumb, creating a depression between the thumb and index finger to create a better hand shape. this may take several tries, wrapping it, letting it cool into a shape, reheating it and shaping again. Do to rush this step and burn yourself. Repeat this method with the main hand piece over the back of your hand, creating indentations around your knuckles to create a better hand shape. The far side of the main hand piece should wrap around the side of poor hand a little bit to keep flush to the shape.
Try on both pieces together at the same time, making certain you can wriggle your hand both in and out out without the pieces being separated. Mark this configuration with a pen, then heat the Worbla fuse the two pieces into a single piece. (If you have a larger hand than I do, you may need to re-work this configuration.)
Take your Worbla scraps and heat and press them into four small 3D diamond shapes Attach these to the main hand piece over your knuckles, curling them in slightly to match your hand. Test wearing this to make sure they don’t dig into your fingers when they’re extracted straight out. Use the heat gun to adjust until satisfied.
Trim a U in to the thumb wrap to match the thumb joints and create an opening around the knuckle of your thumb. (see image)
You should now have all of your pieces assembled and looking more or less like this:
#6) Take your Mod Podge/Gesso/or other primer and paint several thin layers onto all of the Worbla pieces. Sand inbetween as appropriate. We’ve previously shown you how the different primers take to Worbla. [link]
#7) Get your silver spray paint and paint these suckers. Inside and out where you can. Don’t leave edges or loose overlaps exposed as that cookie dough color.
#8) Take your black acrylic paint and a brush, paper towels, and or rag, and antique your paint job. It make s a huge difference in the look for a real person wearing it over a cartoon. [link: paint antiquing tips]
The diamond knuckles should get a light coating of black so that they’re more of a dark gunmetal silver color to match the cartoon arm.
#9) Hot glue your Velcro dots onto the forearm piece. so that it closes and sits snugly around your arm. You may want to spot pain the edges of the velcro dots to ensure they’re not visible.
#10) Make sure you don’t need to do anything with your right hand for a while. Put on the black base glove. Take your small small sponge brush and the Jacquard Paint – Lumiere #563 Metallic Silver. Sponge paint the silver over the entire thumb section of the glove. Multiple thin layers (you do not have to wait for these to dry completely between). Make sure it remains flexible. Wait for it to be dry enough to the touch that it doesn’t bleed significant paint onto you. Remove the glove and place it flat on tin foil or wax paper. Let this dry and set for at least 48 hours. Go wash the silver off your hand.
#11) AGAIN. Make sure you don’t need to do anything with your right hand for a while. (this is where my glue practices are questionable, but bear with me.) Once the glove is dry and ready to go, put it on. Try on all of your hand and thumb joint pieces. Using the Fabric Glue, glue the thumb joints in place on the glove, and put glue just on the main part of the hand piece where it’s in contact with the flat back of your hand. Wait for this to mostly dry. Once your sure it’s more or less set, you can remove the glove and hand pieces as a single unit, and set them aside to dry completely for at minimum 48 hours. Go wash any excess glue off your hand.
#12) Your Shiro Galra Arm is done, and here is the order of assembly for wear. (I assume you’re already wearing any tight-fitting shirt that goes with this. Slide the Upper Arm Cuff on first, but not all the way into place. Put in the glove with attached Hand and thumb Pieces. Slide the glove all the way up, tucking your sleeve into the top of the glove. Slide the Upper Arm Cuff into place. Open the Forearm piece at the seam and wrap it over your arm from the side, using the velcro to secure it tightly.
TAH-DAH. You’re done. Enjoy.
Photos of the finished costume at Dragon Con 2016 by Jason Rock [link] Cosplayer: @elfgrove
if the anon uses a glaze, that helps a lot to strengthen any clay. also possibly layers of paint or s/t? something that would thicken the base a bit.
Regardless, this is a cosplay blog, and thusly really not the appropriate venue to ask for advice in making household daily use items. It’s not what I do, and I hesitate to make any recommendations in that sense.
I don’t know if the clay they’re using will take to glaze well, and most glazes for pottery (to my knowledge) do need to be kiln fired. Paints and lacquers get into potentially toxic areas, and that I don’t want to touch with a 20 foot pole as far as telling them what to use, especially if this is getting anywhere near holding food.
How to strengthen air dry clay. I am making clay bowls and they are very fragile and break easily. I would like to strengthen them. What would you use?
Well, the first question should really be what air dry clay are you using, because they have very different durability levels and component make ups.
Secondly, this is a cosplay blog. I don’t generally make bowls or other things designed for daily household use. Kind of the wrong blog for that.
BUT IN GENERAL – I don’t think air dry clay is going to be a suitable medium for making bowls you intend to get any use out of. Most air dry clay is effectively a toy, like play-dough. It’s not toxic, but neither is intended to be used to eat off of. It’s not designed to stand up to heavy wear and tear. My friends and I do use it sometimes for armor, or small detail items, but anything the least bit delicate or expecting to need to handle much wear and tear is used as a smoothing/detailing component over a much sturdier base. I think this is a case of the wrong tool for the job.
