The Punisher Collection !

My name is Blake. I like fashion and Phoebe Bridgers and I'm here to run with that 🐎

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Boygenius played a new song tonight!! Ahhh!!

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Aaaand here's the final sketch of the Apocalypse Jumpsuit!

When I went back and more clearly defined this idea, I made the jumpsuit a little more boxy / masc. I really like the little details I added, like the pleats and the pockets. I can't wait for this one to be real! I want to wear it!!

I imagine it would be made out of a denim or canvas, dip dyed to create the ombre effect. The chemtrail lines would be bleached, and the planes embroidered.

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Meet the Apocalypse Jumpsuit! Here's my initial sketch of it (lol peep the facial expression) + some inspo images.

This look is Chemtrail Dress's cousin. Chemtrail Dress depicts the yellow/blue sky above a Goodwill parking lot on a normal Saturday, or a simple sunset from you backyard. Predictable, happy. Apocalypse Jumpsuit is the sky I imagine exists in "I Know The End." The skies of Hell. Even though they depict a bleak dystopian place, I think they're a damn cute idea! This is a look I would definitely wear.

The jumpsuit idea comes from this Big Bud Press jumpsuit PB has worn. She gives jumpsuit energy in general. I thought a more workwear aesthetic would be a good foil to the classically feminine silhouette of Chemtrail Dress.

Included an inspo image of '50s women's pants. Pants 4, 5, and 6 are exactly what I'm going for with all of the pants in this collection.

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A wee sketch I did on the train long ago. This is an idea that didn't make it into the collection.

I wanted an elbow length sleeve with the detail of height markings down the center. The idea comes from Garden Song, when Phoebe sings "I don't know when you got taller."

I liked the idea of that motif only on one sleeve of a dress, but I never figured out what the rest of the dress would look like. Here it's a simple 50's inspired fit n' flare with a neck tie. Perhaps I'll revisit this thought one day.

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I'm OBSESSED with this little white top PB wore at Coachella.

It inspired the neckline of my Winona dress. I like the off-the-shoulder look of the Winona's iconic Edward Scissorhands dress, but wanted to do something a little different.

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I added facings + a lining to my Chemtrail dress muslin!

They came out oookay. I'm trying to eliminate the tucks from the main body of the dress in the lining, hiding bust fullness in the seams instead. Because of this, the lining came out a bit too small, and pulled at the dress.

I gave the lining a slit (as seen in the above pics) to see where I should add more material. Going to edit the patten / recut this lining piece and see if shifting the fullness helps at all. If it doesn't, I think I'll give it a standard bust dart.

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An alternate sketch I did of Lonliness. I really like the way this looks, but I still don't think it's as effective as the original.

The buttons on the back, the red asymmetrical straps, and the quote on the back are all details I find beautiful. Maybe in an alternate universe I'd make this version (also I'm a simp for Moon Song lyrics).

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Early mishmash mood board. My first Lonliness dress sketches and some Overgrowth inspo.

At first I though the simple legs of Lonliness weren't enough, and felt like I had to add more elements. I tried tiers, ribbons, color swapping, etc. It all felt too messy. I determined that the simplicity of the first Lonliness sketch is part of what makes it so effective.

I've always loved imagery of green, overflowing life piled on top of decaying structures. "Punisher" is about being haunted by your past, but having to grow whether you want to or not. The passing of time.

The far right image of a spattered green surface inspired the idea of the collaged body of the Overgrowth jacket.

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Here are two of my mood boards from the very beginning of my collection that I haven't posted yet. Exploring the themes of death, blood, and decay in Phoebe's work / brain storming how to translate those ideas into clothes. Also some inspo pics from Edward Scissorhands, a movie that lent some strong vibes to this collection.

I loveee bloodstains on clothes, but it's difficult to use them in a way that doesn't feel too literal or Halloween.

I didn't stick too strictly to my mood-boarded ideas while sketching and designing my looks, but it's fun to look back now and review the origins of some of my ideas.

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Finalized design / sketches of Overgrowth :)

I can definitely imagine Miss PB wearing this look on stage, which excites me. I didn't go into designing this collection thinking of Phoebe wearing any of the garments I'm designing / designing them FOR her, so it's cool looking back and thinking about how well they might suit her.

The suit jacket is the main event, but I've included sketches of what the other pieces would look like too.

The blouse would be made of a sheer silk chiffon in off white/ivory. It has a placket with hidden buttons. The collar would be curved and doubled. There's a little blood stain, likely beaded on. I want it to be a bit oversized on the wearer, billowing off their body. The sleeves would be very dramatic and full at the end, gathered into a tailored cuff that buttons.

The pants are fairly simple. The color would match the blouse. Maybe a wool? Or suiting fabric? High waisted and pleated.

This is a look I'd definitely like to make in reality! I hope to find the right person to model it for me.

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This is Overgrowth! One of the earlier looks designed in my collection.

The first image is the initial sketch I did on my phone. I wanted to capture the feeling of a vegetation that has overtaken a building. However, I chose not to include the color green in this collection, which complicated my ability to do that.

Image #3 is of a tulle heart that was part of my senior thesis. It has “dreaming of you” embroidered on it. I liked the idea of having tulle masses like this / patches of dyed fabric / stitching collaged on a suit jacket. I’m hoping it will have the feeling of that decaying building, both bustling with life and falling apart.

The “overgrowth” idea came from Garden Song and Graceland Too. Images of green vegetation and landscapes permeate my mind when I listen to those songs, as do haunted houses and old trauma.

I added a little blood at the neck of the shirt collar too, as a nod to the vampiric vibes of Savior Complex.

Suits remind me of Phoebe, so I had to include a number of them in the collection. I chose to give them a broad 1950s business man-like shoulder. The suit jacket has a hip that pops out and accentuates the silhouette. Most of my suit pants are pleated in the center, again creating that vintage look.

Image #4 is called Abandoned House by Mathieu Gasperin. Image #5 is a work by Armelle Blary. Both of these were on my Pinterest board when designing this look.

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Lil sketch lady I found on my phone today. One of my initial Winona sketches. Kept her low waist line, but gave her a silly little capellet. Glad I didn't go with this design, it's a bit too Little Red Riding Hood for me haha. Fun to look back though :)

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Latest version of my chemtrail dress! The pleats are directionally laying correctly now. I had to add a dart to the CF so that the fabric would lay flatly on my bust. Dealing with the fullness in the front has been a bit tricky, but I like how things are looking now! Overall this has gone more smoothly than I thought it would.

My next step is patterning the sleeve, facings, and lining. I was originally going to add a built-in crinoline, but I like the way the fabric hangs naturally on me so I think I’ll leave it. Excited to have a 3 day weekend to work on this more!

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First muslin of the chemtrail dress! The pleats came out a little wonky, but I was still super excited by the fit when I tried it on.

I draped this dress on my size 8 form, then laid the drape on top of the dress pattern slopers I made for myself. I slashed + spread the drape to fit on top of my sloper. I figured it wouldn’t come out quite right since this isn’t the correct way to grade a pattern up, but it turned out better than I expected!

There was a bit too much room in the back waist, and the front pleats were angling way too far inward. I decided my next step would be to straighten out the front pleats on the pattern + edit this muslin in accordance.

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After somewhere between 30-40 hours of fiddling with patterning and sewing, I finally came up with a set of slopers I'm happy with!

I'm sure there is still a lot of room for refinement, but this feels like a good starter set for me. I'm both surprised and unsurprised they took so long to get right. Regardless, they took me longer than I would have liked, so I'm feeling antsy to get started patterning the actual dress I'm making for myself.

Stay tuned to see that!

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Earlier 9S sketch w/o color :) love the way I drew her face / hair (not to flex)

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My finalized 9S look!

I posted my preliminary design of this look on July 29th, 2022. The look overall didn't feel strong enough for me, so here's the revised version. I wanted to go more in a shorts-suit direction ( a la 9S himself), pump up the romance and drama.

The print is of a swirling sky, inspired by the swirling stars that are shown on screen when Phoebe Bridgers performs "I Know The End" live. I saw her in June of 2022, and the visuals of her show definitely inspired moments in this collection.

If I were to make this look physically, I think the suiting would be digitally printed, and then beaded in places by hand. Perhaps painted on top of a bit to add depth. I wish it could be a velvet, but it would probably just be a thick sturdy suiting. It has some asymmetrical moments, some subtle red lacing, etc.

I think this is the last look I designed for the collection! It has a special place in my heart. I'm not sure if this is one I will end up making, but I would love the opportunity to make it eventually.

The first image is my latest sketch of 9S. The second image is one I took when I saw PB on her Punisher tour last summer. The third image by Rick Berk. The last image is from 1894 by Stern Brothers, via the V&A Museum.