April Wine of the Month “Springtime in Venice”
Greetings all and welcome to this month's Wine of the Month write-up where we are pleased to be featuring wines from the famous Veneto region in Northern Italy.
The wines are perfectly suited for Easter meals and early springtime cook outs. Whether you are doing a traditional Easter ham or a rosemary and garlic crusted leg of lamb, we have you covered on the wine front. The Gran Passione Rosso is a non traditional IGT Blend and the Remo Farina Bianco Custoza and Ca' La Bionda Valpolicella Classico are excellent examples of traditional wines being produced in the region.
The Veneto, located in the north-east of Italy, is a region that contributes a significant percentage, nearly a quarter, of the country’s total wine industry. Several of the major DOCs, including Soave, Bianco di Custoza, Valpolicella and Bardolino, plus Amarone, are produced here. The beloved sparkling wine Prosecco, while produced all over the country, has its origins and its best expression in the Veneto and is its own DOC.
The history of wine-making in the region can be traced back as far as a few centuries BC in the Bronze Age. The Romans eventually took over, as they were wont to do, and began dividing plots of land into more organized vineyard sites. They also established the cities that would become Venice (Venezia) and Verona, both major hubs for fashion, art, trade and wine. There are 6th century written documents by Cassiodoro, a magistrate of Visigoth King Theodorus, describing a sweet wine made from half dried grapes in Verona that is mostly likely an early version of Amarone or Recioto. “Straw wine,” the process used to make these wines by drying grapes on straw mats before pressing, is a style of wine-making that was passed on from the ancient Greeks. Both Amarone and Valpolicella, the table wine version using the same grapes (Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella), became popular Veneto exports. As was likely some version of Bardolino, which is now officially a blend of the same grapes with a small percentage of others such as Rossignola, Sangiovese or Garganega.
A trade embargo with the Ottomans in the 16th century forced local agriculture to broaden its domestic scope. More attention was paid to viticulture in hopes of reviving the industry by putting more emphasis on quality local wine production. The success of this effort paid off both domestically and abroad with other European countries, the New World and China.
The Veneto was hit hard by the Phylloxera crisis in the late 19 the century, but because trade was so vital to the region, especially with the construction of modern trade routes such as the Suez canal, viticulturalists acted quickly once the “cure” of grafting American root stock to local vines was discovered.
Veneto in Northeastern Italy
Sadly, the region had garnered a poor reputation between the 1950s and the later half of the 20th century for importing a lot of mass-produced wines, especially Soave (Soave Bolla anyone?), sweet and skunky Proseccos and some very fruity, insipid versions of Valpolicella. But things turned around by the late 1980s and 1990s. While those wines still exist, there is far more emphasis on quality production for local consumption and imports.
The Veneto is comprised of many different terrains and microclimates, which account for its range of varietals and styles. The topography divides itself into three sections where wine is produced: the province of Verona to the west (between Lake Garda and Soave town). The hills in the center surrounding Vicenza, Padova and Treviso. And the much flatter plains of Piave Tagliamento river basins, along the Adriatic coast, to the northeast of Venice. In all there are now 24 DOCs within the region.
Gran Passione = Amarone della Valpolicella?
Not quite! Our featured wine the Gran Passione uses similar methoods as the traditional Amarone but uses 60% merlot and 40% corvina grapes and isn't grown within the strict Amarone region.
Here is a quick look at how Amarone is made:
Grapes are harvested ripe in the first two weeks of October, by carefully choosing bunches having fruits not too close to each other, to let the air flow. Grapes are allowed to dry, traditionally on straw mats. This process is called appassimento orrasinate (to dry and shrivel) in Italian. This concentrates the remaining sugars and flavours and is similar to the production of French Vin de Paille.
The pomace left over from pressing off the Amarone is used in the production of RipassoValpolicellas.
Modern Amarone is now produced in special drying chambers under controlled conditions. This approach minimizes the amount of handling of the grapes and helps prevent the onset of Botrytis cinerea. In Amarone, the quality of the grape skin is a primary concern as that component brings the tannins, color and intensity of flavor to the wine.
The process of desiccation not only concentrates the juices within the grape but also increases the skin contact of the grapes. The drying process further metabolizes the acids within the grape and creates a polymerization of the tannins in the skin which contribute to the overall balance of the finished wine.
Grapes drying for Amarone
The length of the drying process is typically 120 days but varies according to producer and the quality of the harvest. The most evident consequence of this process is the loss of weight: 35 to 45% for Corvina grapes, 30 to 40% for Molinara and 27 to 40% for Rondinella. Following drying, end of January/beginning of February, the grapes are crushed and go through a dry low temperature fermentation process which can last up to 30/50 days.
The reduced water content can slow down the fermentation process, increasing the risk of spoilage and potential wine faults such as high volatile acidity. After fermentation, the wine is then aged in barriques made from either French, Slovenian or Slavonian oak
Gran Passione Story & Process:
The Botter Wine Company started in 1928 selling barrels of wine to restaurants. The second generation of Botter’s decided to bottle the family wine in the 50’s. In the 70’s they incorporated and began to pursue the international market and more vineyards and wineries. In the 90s the third generation took over and began the intense restructuring of the properties and increased it’s exports to be 98% of their product. It remains a family run business with a penchant for making superior wines at reasonable prices.
The grapes come from selected vineyards harvested at the beginning of October, to get a level of maturation leading to a high sugar level and good potential alcohol content. This late maturation gives the characteristic notes of ripe fruits, such as plums and raisins. To further concentrate flavors, the stems of the grapes bunches are cut 10 days before harvest. This begins to dry out the grapes which help further concentrate the wine — a process known as appassimento, the process by which Amarone is produced. After the selective hand harvest, grapes are pressed and the fermentation starts at temperatures of about 78° F; the skins are left in the must for a long period to extract flavors and the characteristic ruby red color and Amarone like flavors.
Tasting Notes and Food Pairings
Gran Passione Rosso – Veneto, Italy – 2012
Color: Deep dark red/purple with a blue rim
Aromas: Ripe dark cherry, dark plum, vanilla, some pepper spice hints of mocha and coffee
Taste: Ripe red raspberry, melted red licorice, dried cranberry and fig with milk chocolate
Food Pairings: Roast leg of lamb, grilled beef filets, pot roast, mushroom based dishes, braised short ribs, risotto, robust pasta dishes, venison, game birds such as duck
Remo Faina – Bianco di Custoza – Veneto, Italy – 2011
(40% Garganega (the main varietal in Soave), 25% Trebbiano, 20% Malvasia, and 15% Fernanda.)
Color: Straw yellow color with a clear rim
Aromas: Wonderful nose of fresh white flowers, citrus, pear, and hints of spice
Taste: Bright crisp flavors of green apple, pear, stone fruit, mineral and hints of honeysuckle.
Food Pairings: Easter ham, light green salads with goat cheese, fried calamari, white fish, grilled chicken breasts stuffed with herbs, scallops, sushi
Ca' La Bionda – Valpolicella Classico – Veneto, Italy – 2010
(80% Corvina and 20% Rondinella)
Color: Ruby red with a blue rim
Aromas: Fresh red cherry , red apples, fresh violets
Taste: Juicy mouthful of cherry, tart cranberry, hints of mineral follow on the finish
Food Pairings: Pizza, red sauced pasta dishes, pork dishes, roasted chicken, hard cheeses, grilled burgers, meat kabobs, veggie dishes, grilled chicken.