An American Dream.
Around the states in 8(0) beers.
A musical accompaniment to this story can be found,nay, rocked out to, at: http://grooveshark.com/#!/playlist/An+American+Dream+Musical+Accompinament/100721574
.....
It’s April, August (such is the level of my procrastination) September and I’m dusting off a winter jacket I bought to battle an incredible icy blast through the southern United States. We got back from America at the end of January, that’s almost twice as long ago (and the rest), than the time we spent there.
I promised myself and others that I’d write down my thoughts on that trip, thoughts on beer and thoughts on a culture I think I’ve feared, loved, loathed and defended all within a breath. Many memories of the trip are vivid, some are already forgotten, some need jogging. I distinctly remember watching a Bald Eagle flap and glide over a marshy truck stop in Mississippi, sauntering past Beyonce on a misty New Orleans evening and watching her peddle away down Frenchman St, the distinct Jus D’Orange tang and intoxicating aroma of those hops. Fresh, fresh American IPA’s in Portland. Then again I try harder and harder to remember what happened on this particular day or what we ate at that place, America is steadily becoming a haze of JC Penny’s, great family meals, burgers and big skies. Dreamlike, I’m struggling to pull apart what was actually real and what is my imagination, of a land, that grabbed it.
‘Lets not beat about the bushel’, I’m thinking of well known phrases, inserted with beer related ingredients, ‘you’ll get the grist.’ We’re sat in a Waffle House, it’s a delight, like I’m on a film set. Mike chops and chews his breakfast and says “yessir” and “yes ma’am.” The larger than life waitress is only too pleased to help, I say “thank you” for my top up of inky coffee and automatically sound like a Bond baddie or more befitting for modern telly a ‘Stark boy.’ Liz points out things about plastic,and corn syrup and grease, lots of grease and batter. Outside it’s starting to spit. We’re heading to America’s 2010 and 2011 ‘Beer city’, Asheville, North Carolina.
Burial Beer is a shed, a tool shed on Collier Avenue. An industrial street like any other with warehouses and plastic molding companies. Though this area houses two breweries I’ve been itching to see and taste beers from. At Burial there’s a homely feel inside, homely in a reminiscent sense of a grandpa’s workshop. Cast iron work tools adorn the walls, and a picture of Sloth from the Goonies draws my attention. The bar is simple, the roof is all patched corrugated steel. The beers are served in jars, hipster chic, probably, do I care, possibly, until I see a young lady behind the bar juggling a little one, dealing with all the stuff we bartenders do naturally without anyone else seeing, and still listening to some guys story about Allen Keys. She’s a whizz, another chap introduces himself to a couple at the bar, he’s talking brewing, someone else in a Burial hoodie arrives with boxes. The Burial team beam beer, they wear their pumping passionate hearts on their sleeves and its infectious. Well it is to me, the two lads at the bar are still talking about Allen keys. The temperature outside has plummeted, I can see Liz is concerned about driving as a thin layer of sleet begins to fall. I plumb for a swift jar of the Amber…..its great!
Burial: Shovel head Amber, 5.1%, Keg
(Notes)
Nicely balanced with a chic malt lining, the hops then turn up, Simcoe, Amarillo? Its all freshly squeezed ‘pithy’ orange juice in the finish.
Burial: Surfwax IPA, 6.8%, Keg
(Notes)
Grassy, tastes like a good session PA, no obvious big alcohol note, well balanced. low malt backbone, a little biscuit. Finish is; Hops Hops Hops, maybe kiwi?
We leave Burial behind, with a few days in Asheville I hope to be back. There’s a candle in the window as we turn and head toward Green Man Brewing some 50 paces around the corner.
Green Man pulls off a unique trick of being a brewery, a bar and a mock English deciduous woodland all in one, there are lads playing darts, all manner of green man wood carvings, a Yoda statue. Then tanks and hosepipes and a humongous chiller covered in beery ephemera. There’s a green light casting a glow all around. Its tight at the bar and there’s a seasonal pouring.
Green Man Brewing: 1850 East India Pale Ale, 7.6%, Cask
(Notes)
Almost ‘meady’ aroma, a sickly showcase of malts is backed up by a resinous hopping regime. The definitive ‘chewy’ beer. It’s heady and powerful and I’ve forgotten about the snow.
I wipe my nose again as tangy pickle meets paprika and ranch dressing. I’m eating a white sauce, I must be ill! Asheville is long gone, the beer dried up after I came down with the mother of all flu-ups. Half the family got it, Liz has me dosed up on Kombucha and medicines I’ve never heard of. AsalaphetopinetreeconcordMINE pron. AsalfffaphactotrudectolMEEEN.
We are in Nashville, TN and I’m miserable as sin. It’s minus 32.8 Million degrees Fahrenheit. We’re at ‘Burger Up’ and meeting Liz’s friends Natalie and Matt perks me up. My senses are awakening and I’m hungry for the first time in a week.
Nate Ross of Kernel/Good George fame told me quite strictly “It ain’t a burger without a Brioche Bun” I thought he was being a trumped up Aussie that had spent too much time in London. In this instance he couldn’t have been more right. The off sweet bread is perfect with the savoury, almost metallic, unctuous Bison patty. Skin on truffle fries, with specs of crystalline sea salt are a natty compliment. All this umami is cleansed, near drowned out, by an equally addictive sour spear of dill pickle.
We leave Burger Up behind and brave the cold, I’m starting to feel like billions of bacteria in my stomach have been crying out under an empirical regime of probiotics and fermented things, the tide has turned. The alliance of meat, fat and chips destroys any hope of a return to the dark side. Illness is abated, I’m back in the game.
Walmart has a vast array of plungers, classic orange headed ones, ones that look like weird sex toys, ones like weaponry from DOOM. I’ve embarrassingly blocked our hosts toilet and we need to rush back through Nashville evening traffic to get home and do some reverse plumbing before they return from work. I’m embarrassed, run down, cold, tired and miserable. I look at Liz as she negotiates rush hour traffic, I struggle to understand how she puts up with me. That night we book to stay in the ‘Heartbreak Hotel’ in Memphis.
“Graceland was smaller than I thought it would be”
“Hmmm” I’m annihilating a huge bag of peanut butter filled pretzels, as Liz drives down Highway 61, Memphis peels away behind us. A day in the life of Elvis has made me think about eating myself to death.
It’s mid afternoon, a chill in the air, the great Mississippi river tantalizingly bends in and out of our view to the right. The road is open, hard, and clean with salt. The sky is a thoughtful grey. The music is Howlin Wolf.
We stop at a visitors center, as Liz uses the bathroom, two helpful African American girls with laughs like slide guitars discuss where New Zealand is, we all decide it’s near enough to Chile and I turn the conversation to their part of the world, “Where should we eat in Clarksdale?” they look at me like I’ve pulled a gun and answer in unison. “Abe’s”
END OF PART ONE.










