5. Putting the Logo onto Fabric
As one of the final outcomes of this project, my group and I have decided we want to sell clothing and patches with our logo on them, with the fabric we use having different colour schemes and characteristics, so that it keeps to the idea of freedom. Having our logo on different styles of clothing and patches allows the wearer to keep their freedom of expression, whilst also being part of a bigger group of people who want the same thing: Freedom.
Initially I experimented with using fabric paints to put our groups logo onto fabric. I tried painting onto denim, thick cotton, calico, and jersey fabrics. I found it easiest to paint onto the jersey and light cotton fabrics. I found the thick cotton/denim fabrics quite difficult to paint onto, as there were larger bumps between the threads of the fabric, stopping the paint from spreading as evenly. With darker fabrics, multiple layers of paint had to be added to make the colours stand out. The different sections of the design would have to be done individually rather than painting over sections, as the paint from underneath shows through, discolouring the design intended.
Aside from the problems faced with the actual painting of the fabric, this process is also too time consuming to be used to make enough work to use in the final exhibition. After painting the design, I would have to wait at least 24 hours before ironing the design into place; following this I would then have to wait 48 hours for the design to set before washing it.
[Fabric painting samples]
After finding that using fabric paints wouldn’t make for a successful outcome, I decided to try using the AMAYA embroidery machines at University. This would allow me to directly stitch my digital design for the logo onto fabric, which I could then make into patches, or simple stitch straight onto different items of clothing. Before I could use the AMAYA, I had to redo my training for it, which I found very helpful, as I haven’t used it in a couple of years, so I was able to note down how everything works, meaning when I got to the machine, I was able to pick up how to use it relatively quickly.
With my first samples on the AMAYA I didn’t put the embroidery hoop in correctly, but once I had realised my mistake, I was able to quickly get other samples done. After doing a couple of samples, I attempted putting the logo onto the back of a denim jacket. I liked how the logo looked on the jacket, however, the collar had folder under and got caught in the stitching, making the jacket unwearable. Though this was disappointing, I know now to double check that no excess fabric can get caught in the stitching; I used hair ties to hold excess fabric away, which worked well, leaving me a top and shirt that the logo was on. However, when I stitched into the shirt, I forgot to turn the design around on the computer before starting, meaning that the logo was stitched onto the shirt incorrectly. I will know for my next sessions on the AMAYA to double check these things before starting stitching onto items of clothing.
[Photographs from my first session on the AMAYA]
I began putting multiple logos onto the same piece of a fabric, which I found useful for making patches. When I had completed the stitching onto the fabric, I was able to cut the logos out and make them into patches. I used my own sewing machine at home to make the patches, but for the next batch, I will try using the sewing machines at the University as they are better quality machines, and the patches I made with my own didn’t looked as professional as I was aiming for. The edges of the patches were uneven, and the satin stitch over the edges wasn’t as aesthetically pleasing as I had wanted it to be.
[Photograph of the first patches I have made]
Using the AMAYA, given that I am able to book the machines for days I am available, I should be able to create a collection of patches and clothing in time for our exhibition.
Another campaign where slogans were used on clothing to raise money for charity was ‘This is What a Feminist Looks Like’. The collaboration between Elle Magazine, Whistles, and The Fawcett Society, saw celebrities donned in the t-shirts and sweaters to raise awareness of the cause in 2014. However, ethical issues emerged when it was found that the garments where being “made in a Mauritian sweatshop by women earning 62p an hour.” (Hoskins, 2014). When it comes to the making of our products, we will have to be careful to meet high ethical standards given the nature of the work. In the article, Hoskins (2014) goes on to warn that anyone looking to use raise money for charity in this way should make sure to conduct their own research into ethical practices in the fashion industry. Though we can avoid ethical issues through the clothing we use being donated and by adding the logo to the garments ourselves, we may find it best to look further into the brands of the clothing that have been donated to us to avoid accidentally supporting or promoting an unethical brand by adding our logo to their clothing.
Figure 1 Benedict Cumberbatch, actor, ELLE cover star and feminist (ELLE, 2014)
Figure 2 Emma Watson, actor, ELLE cover star and feminist (ELLE, 2014)
ELLE. (2014). Benedict Cumberbatch, actor, ELLE cover star and feminist [Photograph]. Call Yourself A Feminist?. elle.com/uk/fashion/celebrity-style/articles/g23464/feminism-t-shirt-tom-hiddleston-benedict-cumberbatch-emma-watson/
ELLE. (2014). Emma Watson, actor, ELLE cover star and feminist [Photograph]. Call Yourself A Feminist?. elle.com/uk/fashion/celebrity-style/articles/g23464/feminism-t-shirt-tom-hiddleston-benedict-cumberbatch-emma-watson/
Hoskins, T. (2014, November 3). The feminist T-shirt scandal exposes an entire system of exploitation. The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/sustainable-fashion-blog/2014/nov/03/feminist-t-shirt-scandal-exposes-entire-system-exploitation-elle-whistles-fawcett-society