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2025 on Tumblr: Trends That Defined the Year
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Oh-oh! Someone has stepped into the fairy circle!
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Ego finis et principium 🌅🩸
The 1970s absolutely WENT OFF with sundresses
Afternoon Dress, 1895
Cape
1795-1800
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
"The extraordinary embroidery of this cape shows the delight of the British in the age-old tradition of representing nature in embroidery. The whimsy and pleasure expressed in the embroidery is evident."
I just love how fancy this cape is. Whoever owned it must have really had fun wearing it, with is incredibly fun images of both nature and leisure. I wish I could get more up-close images of the embroidery!
Dress
1805
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
While dresses of this era tend to be monochromatic solid white, this dress shows how colorful embroidery could be used to create lively decoration.
Doucet evening dress, 1890’s
From the Mint Museum via the Google Art Project
Walking Dress
Liberty & Co.
1906-1907
Gemeentemuseum Den Haag
Selkie fall 2023, inspired by Lucy of Bram Stoker’s Dracula
Dress
1868-1869
The Victoria & Albert Museum
Green means nature.
Central Florida Emergency Trans Care Fund
Equality Florida
ACLU Florida
Tampa Bay Abortion Fund
Dress
1892
The American Museum and Gardens
Yellow means sunlight.
Central Florida Emergency Trans Care Fund
Equality Florida
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Coat
Yves Saint Laurent, 1983
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Pink means sex.
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Shoes
Carel, 1984
The Museum at FIT
Red means life.
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Rodarte fall 2023
Tartan and Check Cloaks, Coats and Dresses
Linennaive on Etsy
chinese hanfu fashion for men by 道定汉服
I am still kinda confused about the differences of TieLi 贴里 and YeSa 曳撒 They are both from Ming Dynasty but they also have the pleated skirt and similar print. I tried to see the differences, but I can’t, thanks for your attention!
Hi, thanks for the question!
Tieli/贴里 and Yesa/曳撒 (also known as Yisan) are different Ming dynasty men’s hanfu styles that look very similar. This is because tieli is actually a variant design of yesa. Torguqin wrote an informative article on yesa and tieli here, which I’ll summarize:
On Yesa (x):
Yesa is a distinctive hanfu design from the Ming dynasty. As a Sinicized version of the Mongolian jisün (banquet) robe, the function of this robe changed greatly as it changed hands to the Han. Yesa was worn by imperial eunuchs, servants, and street-running pages, and as martial and military parade regalia. The large pleated skirt in front greatly enhances the hip and thigh profile, and with the robe sometimes worn short enough to expose the entire boot, it exemplifies the masculine prowess of the wearer. Below - yesa in Ming painting (x):
The distinctive feature of yesa is the construction of the outfit itself – while looking from the front it consists of a cross-collared top sewn together to a pleated skirt, the back is a straight long robe. The skirt is not sewn shut to the back piece, but rather use two large outward-extending “flaps” or “ears” to cover the side slits, creating a unique side and back profile that allows unrestrained leg movement and access to the inner layer of clothing. Below - yesa pattern:
On Tieli (x):
Tieli is a variant design of yesa, but instead of its unique bottom design, it is a pleated skirt attached to the top. Its name comes from the Mongolian term “terlig”. Both yesa and tieli serve similar functions and offer similar freedom of movement, and hence were loved by commoners and elite alike. Moreover, tieli is often seen in paintings as the outer clothing of young boys and servants of pre-adolescent age. Below - 1) tieli in Ming paintings (x), 2) tieli pattern:
Here’s a handy slide that summarizes the differences between yesa and tieli (in Chinese), via:
So as you can see, the easiest way to tell yesa and tieli apart visually is by looking at the skirt. If there’s a large flat center panel in the front & back of the skirt, it’s yesa. If it’s evenly pleated all around, it’s tieli. For example, in the Ming painting below, the little boy in green is wearing tieli. Everyone else is wearing yesa (x):
Another clue is the presence of “waibai/外摆” - the “flaps” on the sides of the skirt that yesa (below right) has due to its construction, and tieli (below left) doesn’t have:
Finally, here’s a quick quiz - can you identify which of the below four outfits are yesa and which are tieli? (answers below):
Answers (top to bottom, left to right): 1) yesa, 2) tieli, 3) tieli, 4) yesa.
For more information on yesa and tieli, Newhanfu has an in-depth article here. There are also Wikipedia articles on yesa & tieli. And you can check out my tieli and yesa/yisan tags.
If any followers have more information, please share. Hope this helps!