Another Issue, Another Procession (or at least the seeds of one)…
Sicily is a land of volcanic rock, aloe and palm, enveloped by the Mediterranean.
Mt. Etna in her dramatic majesty...
the gardens of Palermo...
translated to a wall in the city's la Kalsa district...
It lies closer to the African continent than to the European one, and as I was told, “Without Arabic culture, there would be no Sicilian culture,” which is palpable in the sounds of the dialect spoken, the ubiquitous presence of lemon trees, the rhythms played on frame drums.
my idea of a fruit stand...
why do we not continue to adorn all the things of daily life?...
yes, it's the tourist stuff, but still...
And as with other millennia-old cultures, Sicily is where a lot of life exists in public space, as folks gather in piazzas to talk, to drink, to play music, to take in the warm summer night (my New York self was struck to see even a police car patiently wait to pass through the multi-generational crowd, as I’ve grown accustomed to the increased revoking of the common spaces where I live).
There’s much more to the story than wine and guitars on the steps of a crumbling medieval cathedral, of course. For example, there’s also the truth of a population that must contend with entrenched corruption in most institutions, a historically unequal distribution of resources, and an ongoing struggle to maintain the basics of life that has trained so many folks to expect little in the way of change.
However, there also exists a large segment of that population that nonetheless is determined to act on behalf of the world they wish to be part of, and despite habitual discouragement and great risk. And I got to meet and to work with a most wonderful, welcoming, brilliant small group of them. These folks are part of the many Sicilians who are committed to protecting their local economy, their health, their self-determination, and their environment, from being compromised by the plans of the U.S. Navy to install MUOS (Mobile User Objective System) onto Sicilian soil.
found on balconies all over the island...
MUOS is a military satellite communication system, with one of four ground stations under construction in the Sicilian city of Niscemi, designed to facilitate the employment of “mobile user” warfighters (especially drones) worldwide (the other three are at U.S. military bases in Virginia, Hawaii and Australia).
Which means that in addition to the devastation of the farmland and the cork oak forest (vital in preventing desertification) in which it sits, and the heightened exposure of the population to electromagnetic waves, the U.S. base at Niscemi also violates many Sicilian’s opposition to the increased militarization of the island, and their desire for peace.
this will make sense shortly...
And the response of the people? There are the Mothers of NO MUOS, who have blocked the road leading to the base, cutting off soldiers’ and construction workers' access. There was the August 9 demonstration, some 5000 strong, at the Niscemi site, which met with a violent reaction from Italian police.
the view from Niscemi from War Resisters International...
There are the U.S. intellectuals and artists (Noam Chomsky, Chris Hedges, and Patti Smith among them) who have asked the Obama administration to immediately stop the installation and condemn the brutality against protesters.
And the response of our small group? To use the power of images and performance and our creative ideas to contribute to the conversation, relay our message, and affect the tone of the actions we are engaging in, to speak to what we are doing this for, not just what we are against.
And so we laid the foundations for a NO MUOS procession.
In Sicily, the concept of procession is a particularly religious one, not associated with demonstration. But public pageant, as well as puppetry and cantastoria (the “sung story”), elements that function in processional art, are deeply familiar traditions, ones that we referenced.
carried in the procession of Palermo's Sant'Agata...
a cantastoria, kinda, from Teatro Ditirammu's folkloric museum...
We began with a night at La Fucina, an independent social space off a cobblestoned piazza, considering the intersection of arts and activism used by groups such as Bread & Puppet theater (http://breadandpuppet.org) and Occupy Wall Street, especially the OWS Puppetry Guild (https://www.facebook.com/OWSPuppetGuild).
And then we set to work. ARCI, a local community center, so graciously invited us to hold our laboratorio there, and so we had a full week given to us, to plan, to build, to come together as a new family of sorts.
We looked at the basic issues connected with the installation of MUOS at Niscemi, located the most striking visuals within those, and began to flesh out a narrative, again, choosing to focus on what we need so urgently to protect. Because that aspect can get lost amidst so much struggle and conflict.
We decided upon a joyous, raucous, funeral procession for NO MUOS, inspired by Bread & Puppet’s “Funeral for a Rotten Idea”, an army of trees, a field of artichokes (the main crop in jeopardy), a block of children in tree-sprite masks laying it to rest, accompanied by the village brass band, and led by a cantastoria depicting with song and paint the history and implications of the project.
We used our limited time together to at least build prototypes of each visual element, learning how to create three-dimensional forms from the ample supply of corrugated cardboard we found;
why, it's the head of a tree, of course...
how to strengthen them with glue and colored papers from the stationery shop around the corner;
tree sprite production line...
not all leaves grow on trees...
giving life to cardboard and paper...
and how to fashion an armature from wood and wire for the largest tree puppet.
each of us bringing a particular expertise in...
The week was not about mounting a fully functioning procession, although I certainly look forward to that happening and contributing to the NO MUOS efforts. Instead, it seems to me that it was about entering into the often messy world of working collectively, learning to give voice to, and find consensus around, potentially opposing visions and needs, and empowering each other to assume possibly unfamiliar leadership roles.
When we have the tools to handle those moments skillfully, the bonds that are thus strengthened are profound to me, as is the recognition that the beautiful results of our laboratorio were fully dependent upon the presence of each and every one who participated, who showed up daily, who brought fabric and drills and hardware from home, who cooked vegan food to share at our potluck lunches,
To me, this is the good stuff, the way I want to go down regardless of what the road ahead looks like.
If you are interested in learning more about NO MUOS:
https://www.facebook.com/NoMuosInternational
And on our shores, Code Pink is organizing a summit on drones to be held in Washington, DC in November:
http://codepinkalert.org/article.php?id=6457