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#extradirty
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@skellyjingles
see this is exactly what I'm talking about. this labour is so incredibly invisibilised that there are real human beings, walking about amongst us, leading normal lives, etc., who earnestly believe that machines can make an item of clothing from start to finish.
Hey just in case someone on here doesn’t quite understand how labor intensive making a garment is, here is a list of things that (to the best of my knowledge) cannot be done by machine alone, from a costumer/tailor in training
Cutting - in my opinion, the most labor intensive part of the process. The amount of time/effort needed varies depending on the pattern and if seam allowance is included or marked separately, but no matter what this process can not be done by machine. Each and every panel and piece of fabric that goes into a garment must be cut by hand by a person.
Pinning/clipping - pinning (or clipping) is the stage at which you align the pieces you are going to be stitching together and hold them together with — you guessed it! — either pins or clips. This can not be done by machine.
Stitching - the actual sewing. This can be done by a sewing machine, but that machine still needs to be operated by a human being.
Ironing/pressing - two words that mean the same thing. The iron itself is a machine, but once again, it needs to be operated by a human being.
Finishing - depending on the technique you use, there are certain finishing techniques that can only be done by hand. But, let’s assume we’re talking about fast fashion, which is usually just finished with a simple overlock/serger. Once again: these machines need to be operated by people.
These are just the basic steps to making a garment, and don’t include textile arts that I am not as knowledgeable about, such as weaving, knitting, and crochet. Also, it is important to note that there are a lot of things that can only be done by hand, such as certain stitches and decorative techniques.
Also, the machinery being operated in textile factories is not equivalent to a domestic sewing machine. We’re talking about one of these guys:
See that gray cylinder under the table, behind the knee pedal? That’s the motor. These machines can sew through your fingers bones and all and not even stop. The people in these factories and sweatshops are operating heavy machinery, and are subject to all the risk that comes with that in addition to all of the work I mentioned above.
Please respect textile workers and continue the fight to eliminate the use of sweatshops and exploited labor in the fashion industry!
Reblogging with some additions from a different post o'mine:
" I'm taking a sewing class and I asked my teacher about how much machines can actually do. She said that while a lot of actual fabric we use in our projects is machine-woven, and sometimes there are machines for particular knitting patterns or for the same small thing over and over and over (i.e. socks), the overwhelming majority of pieces of clothing are in fact just sewn together by humans. Usually women. Underpaid and overlooked. Thousands and thousands of them, working 12 hours a day or more in huge warehouse-factories. You're probably wearing something one of those women created right now.
Most of the students (including me) were horrified. We had *no* idea. We figured that, given that we have supercomputers and massive industrial systems for almost every type of product you can buy, surely we would have figured out a better way? Surely there are machines that can put a t-shirt together by now?
She said, no, that's why fast fashion is really so bad. It's not simply about the quality of the product, it's about the human cost.
When you buy a cheap tee that says "Made in Bangladesh", this is where your clothing came from (and these are from one of the nicer factories):
(By Fahad Faisal. CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=89582692)
Don't want to believe it? I understand. Here is the wikipedia page, you can read it in your own time https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textile_industry_in_Bangladesh#Readymade_garment_(RMG)_industry
By 2014 the RMG industry represented 81.13 percent of Bangladesh's total export.[30] Much of the tremendous growth of the sector and its role as an economic powerhouse for the country is attributed to the availability of "cheap" labor. Of the four million workers employed by the RMG industry, 85% are illiterate women from rural villages.[27] The working environments and conditions of the factories that produce ready-made garments has undergone criticism in recent years concerning worker safety and fair wages.[31][32][33]
Holy shit.
I think there is some confusion about the definition of "by hand". In this context, by hand doesn't mean without power tools. If you make a chair using a table saw and a bandsaw and a mitre saw, it's still "by hand" for the most part.
If you feed fabric into a big die-cutting machine or a large plotter to cut panels, that machine still needs to be operated by somebody. You probably won't have people cut fabric with scissors when it can be avoided, but that doesn't mean that the machines that cut fabric just take large rolls and spit out panels on the other side, and even if they do, it's not like you can funnel panels of fabric into the next machine.
It's like everything else. Sure, you can still make a chair completely by hand, with muscle power, and you can knit socks completely by hand, or bake bread in a wood-fired oven, but using power tools, a sewing machine, or a stand mixer hardly counts for "no longer by hand".
Why should I find those pictures of factories frightening?
Because of general working conditions. It's like when one posts a picture of an amazon warehouse, the facility itself doesn't look bad and everything looks functional. It's only when extra context is added (low pay, lack of benefits, not being able to take breaks/use the bathroom) that it goes from an understandable workplace to a large scale display of the abuse of a workforce.
A shift from 'that looks pretty normal' to 'how many people are being exploited in that one photo?'
Whatttt is with the tendency of Tumblr users to seek absolution from every single person who offhandedly posts about disagreeing with something they do
This just happened at the end of SF trans march
That foreboding sense. Happened right at the end as we were DANCING. they pushed past us as we were leaving, batons and those non-lethal guns alr out. Whatever their story they were alr sending trucks up the backway on McAllister. Actually i dont remember even seeing any vehicles other than trans bikers cus thats our destination every time.
Multiple trans ppl arrested after being assaulted w/ no explanation. Whoever was left was pushed out of the Trans District or out of the march area.
Anyways everyone be careful this weekend if this is how it’s starting.
ICE is bigger and worse than ever, although the major media have stopped reporting on it. Not only is ICE’s reign of terror intimidating many undocumented immigrants and their families — preventing them from seeking the healthcare they need or attending school or going to court — but ICE is also sweeping into its maw many American citizens who are protesting Trump’s police state. Do not lose sight of this. More thoughts on how we should respond on my Substack (in my story).
Okay I JUST realized I never posted these on here—- BUT BASICALLY, about a year and a half ago I started doing these experimental black hairstyle posts that were threads long on Twitter, to give artists a source of inspo for their black ocs whose hair they wanted to try something new with! There’s more to black hair than just the selected styles portrayed in media, and I thought it would be fun to show people how much texture, shape, fades, length, and style can be combined when drawing black hair—-cause it’s a kind of manipulation our hair can do irl! The OG thread from when I made these a year ago were lost with the hacking of my original Twitter account (@/bagels_donuts) but I’ve since reuploaded the whole thread to my new Twitter (@/ItsDonutsFR)! I hope artists on tumblr find these useful, sorry it took me so long to post them here😭🙏🏾 I’ll upload them all in parts!
Part 1: Long masc hairstyles + playing with fades
💬 2 🔁 715 ❤️ 1008 · Part 2: shape, style, and length with femme styles!
acrylic on canvas 60*70 cm “lace over the river” 2022 #river #volkslovers #art #painting #sky skylovers
magical girl gangle design n illustration i made for ep 9!! 🎀 goose thought my gangle sketch from spudsys fit gangle’s art style so i got to design her anime oc!! i rlly wanted ribbons to make her feel gangle-y lol 💕 u can also spot my spudsys sketch on her drawing table!!
Oh, yeah, I wonder how that map's progressed si--wait MISHA COLLINS?
Tags passing peer review, gonna share.
Anyway, homie is, like all wealthy white dudes, egregiously imperfect, but he’s definitely fucking trying. So in that regard, he’s valuable because he’s reaching audiences that you personally probably wouldn’t be able to reach, and if you find he has specific stuff on topics you need to persuade people on, he’s a valuable avenue.
Alvin is a raging narcissist and Simon and Theo are held back from their musical potential because of misplaced fraternal loyalty. It is no secret in the industry that Theo's vocals and Simon's lyricism carry the group but Alvin's attention-seeking behavior was exploited by their agent
this is a DEEPLY unfair interpretation of their musical identity that valorizes public scrutiny teebeeache. There’s an urge towards overcorrection amongst critical voices that can identify the undervaluation of Theo and Simon as contributors and subsequently develop a narrative of antagonism between them and their frontman and to some extent that’s understandable, given how big his little shadow is. but the group has always been structured around performance and spectacle in a way that greatly benefits from the strong identity and stage presence granted by such a large personality
It only took 2 seconds on your blog for me to know I could dismiss everything you said. For those who don't know, red icons are a dogwhistle for crypto-Alvinists who, as we saw from the AatC Midwest Fan discord, sought to sow mistrust in the fandom by insisting on "nuance" while secretly attempting to downplay Alvin's public scandals and shit-talking Simon and Theo.
Tell me this, if the group "benefits" from the strong identity, why is it Alvin has to contractually bar Theo and Simon from pursuing solo careers? Why did he veto the proposed name change to "The Chipmunks" in 2013? Hell, if this is all about the group, as you claim, why is it that Alvin features on 67% of all AatC merch while only making up 31% of overall merch sales (and, as if the stats following his disgusting behavior during the 2022 Oscars is to be believed, dropping lower and lower to even 26%)? Admit it, Dave Seville's excuse that Alvin's presence adds any kind of shine to the group is a transparent lie to conceal the fact that Alvin's disastrous public life makes for cheap sales boosts.
It always comes down to the personal attacks with the separatists! as if red isn’t at the core of not only the debut album’s visual identity but also thematically relevant throughout the whole project… but once someone has a favorite they start thinking everyone else must also be projecting signatures and solo-fan lockdowns onto their Chipmate accounts.
anyway solos love to bring up A’s “behavioral issues” as if he didn’t spend half of last year absent from promotions trying to smooth over T’s violent confrontation with the paps. (which, because I’m an actual Chipmate, I would never turn into some theo hate train. this is what I’m saying, the scrutiny and narrativization of their project has created the justification to infringe on their personal lives in a way that keeps getting cyclically encouraged by people who are in it for the sport and moral victories, not the actual music or the art. I think we can all agree that the real villain is the exploitation of their passion for the craft that roped them into a lifetime commitment to careers they were not prepared for and they literally cannot escape 😕)
op is literally a thimon truther so I don’t think we should bother listening to what they say anyways :/
That is not even fucking true? I shared ONE Theo/OC fic in the Theo Chipmates Discord and the author happened to have also written Thimon WITHOUT MY KNOWLEDGE. I made this very clear (with receipts!) in the Google doc. This is yet another example of a transparent smear campaign against Alvin-critical fans. A patently hypocritical act, BTW, given that you guys are literally constantly shipping Alvincest
Oh my god you guys
You if bugs didn't exist
penny is such a good name. hello my name is dollar bill
just got an idea for a banger couples shirts design
Put in the tags the completely finished (whether cancelled or wrapped up on its own terms) TV series that has YOUR perfect ending, however you define that
Please don’t include huge spoilers for the specifics of the endings, and it would also make me happy if people don’t use this to talk about the shows whose endings they hated
thank you