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Fully repaired and rebuilt Lancelot face after someone tried to superglue his broken nose back on.
The original listing, sold for fodder.
The remaining fodder that came to me.
Fully rebuilt the nose using flex resin and charcoal acrylic paint. Washed and repainted the white of the eyes, touched up the silver and purple with enamel paint. And repainted the miscolored arm (now on the left)
Luckily the damage from the superglue didn't penetrate that deeply into the plastic, I was able to scrape most of it off without having to rebuild a chunk of his face.
I KNEW I took progress photos. I just couldn't find them.
I had it in my color match album. Since i was trying out my new mix of Testors enamel paint. I mixed 1134 purple gloss with 52714 grape pearl to touch up the scuffed paint. I still need a bit more work to get the right level of pearlescence, but this is my closest color match yet. I was able to easily scrape off the super glue and drill out the old nose. Touching up the silver edges and the white of the eyes is easy, its the purple that kills me.
I never took a picture of the fodder when it arrived, but the paint did a lot to protect the plastic from the suger glue burn. You can tell its the same figure because I never fixed the spot on his helmet where the red meets the point of his visor. It still has that little factory flaw. I meant to fix it when I repainted the scuffmarks, but it works out since now I'm posting the pictures out of order XD
I use 1181 Aluminum for the metallic areas because it really pops on Purple Shadow, and 1104 Dark Red for his markings. Once his nose hole is drilled and sanded i can fit it to a replacement nose. I use blax flex UV resin in a small silicone mold.
It needs to be extra long, its important that the nose sits inside the head, don't glue it ontop of a flat surface.
I like to use a dip needle to add the adhesive, but you can also use a precision applicator. Its easier to add more glue than to remove excess glue from a painted figure. Also my prefered glue (loctite) has its activator in a marker style tube, so the dip needle is kind of important for small drops.
Different glues work for different plastics. For this i used an epoxy plastic filler glue so it would fill in the gaps between the hole and nose and not cause offgassing burn. I originally believed I'd need to build up parts of the face from the glue burn, and a gap filler style plastic glue is perfect for that.
And here's the result. Glue dries clear, nose is flexible and won't break off or catch on the visor.
He went through a few hands before getting to me. But now he's fixed and ready for his next home.
If they are, in fact, the colors and I do end up having to buy it in quarts I will create small touch up kits for the figures so everybody can have access to them.
Hey gang, I'm currently going through my collections and selling off a bunch of stuff for some funds and I was wondering if there's any interest in my satbk figures? I have Lancelot (purple version) and Excalibur (glow in the dark sword/caliburn version). Very cool.
I have Lancelot (opened but with his original box) and Excalibur (originally bought without his box) but all pieces are included with both (visors, swords, etc).
I'm honestly so bummed it's come to this since I've taken care of them for nearly six years and they've brought me so much joy but I'm hopeful that they'll bring someone else joy too.
Finally found an affordable Grey variant Sir Lancelot.
His pearlecent blue-grey coloring is so pretty. I understand the Purple is supposed to represent him using his powers, so like the Superform equivalent, but the Grey paint on this figure is very pleasing. Theres a reason these figures are $200 more than the purple.
Mine was $350 because the knee joint broke and they fucking superglued it.
So now I have to carefully disolve the glue without damaging the shin armor. I don't care about the thigh, I have so much fodder for his black limbs. His arms are actually grey plastic, which explains the factory flaw in one of the arms I keep as fodder that had miscolored plastic.
I noticed this before, but his Grey sword doesn't have the knotwork painted on it.
Now I just need to paint my 4 inch custom and I will have 3 different Lancelot figures.
I think I will paint it grey, then get another set for my Super Shadow and paint it purple.
Fully repaired and rebuilt Lancelot face after someone tried to superglue his broken nose back on.
The original listing, sold for fodder.
The remaining fodder that came to me.
Fully rebuilt the nose using flex resin and charcoal acrylic paint. Washed and repainted the white of the eyes, touched up the silver and purple with enamel paint. And repainted the miscolored arm (now on the left)
Luckily the damage from the superglue didn't penetrate that deeply into the plastic, I was able to scrape most of it off without having to rebuild a chunk of his face.
Got a new storage container for my SATBK figure parts now that they have outgrown the small tins.
I sold 2 figures recently for $350 each, but turned around and aquired a few more broken and half bodies using those funds. As well as some new Enamel paint.
So while I'm working on finally letting them go to new homes, I'm still out here rescuing more.
Today as I set up my new organizer I also got to work salvaging joints from the broken figures.
These joints are irreplaceable. They only are available for these figures, and are worth half the total value. A figure with no visor and no sword and even no feet or hands or head can still be worth $150 if it has all 8 ball joints instact. A half body is still worth $100 if it has at least 6 ball joints. Anything less than 6 intact ball joints will drop to $75-$50 and rot there on the sale site.
To safely remove the ball joints, heat a cup of water to boiling, around 200f, and drop them inside.
This softens the plastic quickly without damaging the paint the way a heat gun would at this high a temp. The paint can handle up to 200f in water, it gets soft but holds together and will not flake or peel unless its already severely compromised.
Also, PAINT CAN BE REPAIRED, these ball joints cannot. Don't let the fear of chipping paint be the reason you break a joint.
Here is some chipped arm paint, easily filled with my custom enamel paint. Took photos with and without flash on since my phone likes to auto-correct the color.
Placed a thick line of paint along an undamaged arm to show how it when dried. Normally the paint is applied in a thinner layer. I mixed Testors Gold Flake with Amber Turn Signal at 3:1 and its practically invisible.
Now I have successfully removed all ball joints.
Separating out the broken peices and sorting the remaining. I start testing their rotation.
These joints have a gear-like design that clicks when you turn them. If you wear down the internal spokes, the joint will be loose and not hold a pose.
There are replacement joints on the market that look like they could be the same size. However these are too thick for the holes, you would have to widen the holes to fit (lowering value) or sand down the peg (weakening the peg)
Sorting them into loose and firm joints. I now have all my spare ball joints for figure repair.
The extra peices will be stored for the next broken figures.
Time to finally get around to customizing my DC figures. I wanted to update the head of my Jazwares Knight of the Wind to the modern Jakks design.
First, stealing the head off a figure whose joints keep popping off. Sonic is notorious for this, I managed to get a lot of his figures for cheap because his knees or hips just fall apart at a touch. This seems to primarily be a problem with the 4 pack. The little ear lightning bolts trim off easily under a hobby knife, and once you sand it down you can smooth it out with a cotton square and acetone.
The eyes are not painted on, but decal transfers that hold up well to washing, so I wasn't worried about protecting his eyes on the first layer. A cotton square and rubbing alcohol clear any smudges with the acrylic paint.
Couldn't find my masking tape, so I cut up a bunch of extra spice container labels I've had for forever and slapped it over them.
If you are new to painting figures, they make masking tape for nail art that is perfect for small figures so you can gather those perfect crisp edges and protect the parts like eyes.
Finally a few dots of thick white paint over the mask to fill in his eyes. Once this dries I'll add more until its smooth.
And there he is! (With replica Caliburn i need to finish painting)
Modern Sonic head replacement complete. No more funky eyebrows.
(I do not own a 3d printer, so i used a clear silicone mold and clear uv flex resin)
There was a little, but noticable, amount if shrink with the flex resin, but since the DC head is pretty round it ended up looking more like the 4 inch figure as it narrowed, so I'm pretty happy with it. Also didn't hinder the peg at all.
(Painted DC vs Painted Resin)
In fact, since the DC peg was already a little loose, this made it fit perfectly. The flex resin also has a PVC feel to it and took the paint really well.
Compare it to the older picture of the DC head on Excalibur Sonic. I'm really happy with the results.
Now I can make more expressions without buying out the enture stock of Flash!Sonic.
I'm also working on Lancelot using the DC Shadow head, but his peg is too far back and his quills interfere with his armor so it needs a little more modification.
I need them to make more 5 inch Sonic figures just so I can steal their heads without completely painting over them. I need to be able to swap expressions.
Completed another head from the Sonic X DC figure.
I buy these broken, often in very rough condition, and combine them into the full figures. Most of these still need paint touch-ups, and one Lancelot needs his helmet rebuilt at the tip. Most of the swords also had broken or missing hilts.
Honestly I think I've only ever bought one figure that was complete and not damaged.
I keep all the broken ball joints in a little tin, I'm experimenting on repairing them.
Its a lot of fun to repair them. I know I need to at some point put them back up for sale, =_= but I don't wanna just yet.
Sonic 5 inch Movie Figure Bicep and Butterfly joint
Did a few quick repairs on Thursday. And remembered a post i was meaning to make.
On my previous Amy Figure post I commented on the Butterfly Joint design in her figure and how difficult it is to repair the Bicep Cut on the Sonic 3 figures when they break, and this is the most common area to break in the figure series.
So we're doing a quick guide on this specific joint and why it is so fragile, what it looks like, and how to repair/replace it.
I have the Sonic 3 Super Shadow light up figure for example. This is the figure you will find with the broken joint the most, it comes in a 2 pack with Sonic, and the peg almost always cracks during shipment.
This is because of how they are placed in the box, fists raised, and being a 2 pack there is very little structural support around them to prevent pressure from stacking items to go right onto the fists and bend the arm backwards, snapping the joint.
You will find no shortage of listings for this 2 pack with a snapped arm.
Here I have the intact joint and the joint with the outer molding removed so only the disc remains
This is a Pinless joint. That doesn't mean it has no pin to hold it in place, just that the regular "pin" has been replaced with soft pvc plastic molding that fully encase the disc.
A typical Pin joint is what we see in the old Jazwares figures. These are joints held together by a simple pin, they have great bending range and are usually easy to remove, but the look is a little off for some people. The move to Pinless joints is all about esthetics as more people want posable picture ready figures they can post online.
The pinless joint is a variation of this pin joint, which I'm using from a much larger figure to see better. Here you can see the center disc that the rest of the limb attaches to, and the peg to insert into the body one one side.
The bicep of the figure slides into place over the disc, and a pin is inserted to keep it there.
A pinless design is the same thing, except the area around the disc is no longer a cut out, but a full encasement in a very thin layer.
Below is the outer casing, inner disc, and how it looks put together. Like Pac-Man is eating it.
Because the plastic is very soft and the peg secured firmly between the body's shell instead of popping in and out, this joint is very frustrating to fix.
This isn't such an issue for the non-light up figures, since they have a soft body and a Butterfly Joint.
Importantly the peg for the bicep is comically long for this figure, so heat slowly and thoroughlyto soften the joint and prevent damage when separating it.
However unlike Amy's DC figure the Butterfly Joint doesn't come out easily. It fully rotates inside the body, I heat it up until soft as putty but it wouldn't budge so I assume there's a pin holding it in place.
Regardless, the shoulder joint comes out easily and can be replaced or pinned back together in the regular figures. Its just the Light-Up figures that are so difficult to fix.
This is because the light up figures have a hollow plastic body, the joint fits insude the body similar to the way they sit in the 4 inch here.
So pulling out the broken joint means cracking open the body to get to it.
Often I just decude to drill through and turn it into a pin, since the risk of trying to glue it back together means freezing the joint in place. Once the new pin is done I use UV flex resin to cover the hole, or use a plastic soldering iron to carefully melt the plastic back over it.
Quick fix. Forgot to take before pictures so using the listing photo
Found for $60, normally wouldn't get it for that much but I don't have a grey variant and I had a little wiggle room in my Affirm account.
Please, PLEASE don't ever use regular super glue on your figures. Just get some UV resin.
If you have a sword and you are afraid the handle will break, take the time to make a clear silicone mold of it now so you can put the peices in with some transparent resin and let the mold do the work for you.
I scraped the remnants of superglue off, sanded away all the ruined plastic from the chemical burn caused by the glue, and sanded extra to give the resin something to fill and grip to. You want deep scratches to give it lots of grip.
This is a like-abs standard uv resin for 3d printers, it comes in a $10 bottle and works great in a clear silicone mold with a tiny nail polish uv light. You want a resin with a little flex to it so its not too brittle.
Filled the mold to a little past the level of the break, inserted the renaining part of the sword hilt, the resin fully covered the hilt all the way up to the wristguard, filling in all sanded grooves.
Scraped away any overflow, especially in the slot where the blade fits in, and put the sword bavk together.
Just the first coat if paint but here it is next to an unbroken sword. I have a sword with a small indent where Lancelot's thumb sits in his reverse grip so it doesn't slide off, and thats the one I use for all my molds so I can identify which ones are replaced and repaired hilts vs the original. So if you see a little indent on the very tip of the sword, its my repairwork.
Its also interesting that the grey variant doesn't have the knotwork painted on the sword.
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