SUSTENANCE

Adventures in eating, from one end of the Metroplex to the other.

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Sundown at Granada - Dallas

Last night was my second visit to Sundown at Granada and, I am pleased to report, I was not disappointed.  The only displeasure I have is that I forgot my camera and, alas, have no photos to share.

On my first visit, I was seated at a patio table.  The weather was still a bit chilly, even for Dallas, and I was initially concerned that the wait staff would not be as attentive to the outdoor patrons.  My fears were quickly put to rest as my waitress was extremely prompt AND attentive without being overbearing.

I ordered the Sitting Duck flatbread.  Duck confit, goat cheese and apple slices were placed above a fig reduction and lightly garnished with micro greens.  The description led me to believe that I would also receive roasted garlic, however, I was unable to find it in the dish.  The duck was cooked and seasoned perfectly and the tartness of the goat cheese blended extremely well with the sweet earthiness of the fig reduction.  The flatbread was scored in squares and my only complaint was that the apple slices were almost too large for the squares they were placed atop, making it a little difficult to munch on.  I paired my flatbread with a glass of the Hayman & Hill Cabernet and was delighted at the pairing.

On my second visit, I opted to sit inside, as the weather had, unexpectedly, turned a bit cooler.  Dim lighting made it difficult, but not impossible, to see the menu.  My waitress approached almost immediately, but appeared stunned when I asked for a few moments to review the menu.  As I was left to sip on my water, I quickly scanned the menu and was ready to make my decision, however, I didn't see her again for about 15 minutes.  Unbeknownst to me, this would be a trend that would continue throughout the evening.

My ravenous stomach decided to opt for the Free Bird (I see a poultry theme growing here).  Marinated, grilled chicken breast topped with bacon and brie and accompanied with sweet potato fries and a tarragon dipping sauce that I wanted to slather all over everything.  Again, however, the description stated my sandwich would also have honey-mustard sauce, but I was unable to detect even the slightest hint on my sandwich.  The bread was soft, but stood up to the moisture heavy ingredients.  Excellent melding of flavors.  My only complaint would be the poor service I received.  I am not sure if English was a second language to my server or if she always moves at a glacial pace, but I certainly hope I am not seated in her section the next time I visit.  

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Kitchen LTO - Trinity Groves, Dallas, Texas

I was lucky enough to hear about this spot, dubbed a "Permanent Pop-Up Restaurant" from a friend of mine.  Every 4 months, a contest is held to nominate a chef-in-residence along with an interior designer.  The dynamic duo has a chance to showcase their talents for a "Limited Time Only" (hence the name, LTO).

The night that I dropped in for dinner was exceptionally crowded.  A good sign, I thought, until the hostess informed me that a marketing event was being held and the majority of the patrons were simply enjoying happy hour beverages.  Once this crowd was ruled out, the dining room contained a mere 1/3 of its capacity.  Not to be dissuaded, I picked a table out of the way and began to peruse the menu.

What you see above will be detailed here:

1. Avocado "Hummus" Toasts - The shrimp were excellently poached and there was a slight hint of lemon to the radish slaw, giving an almost-sweet finish.  The toast was a nice, textural change to the smoothness of the avocado and provided a welcome amount of crunch to an, otherwise, creamy dish.

2. (L) Pan Roasted Market Fish - In this instance, the "market fish" was described as being local, Texas redfish.  The fish was cooked to a perfect consistency, however, lacked any true flavor or seasoning.  The "braised" baby carrots were a crispy al dente and I received no hint of the lime brodo listed in the description.  The farro was cooked extremely well, but also lacked seasoning.  All in all, a tad bit of a disservice to an excellent piece of fish.

3. (R) Salmon BLT - I was told that this was the signature dish that won Chef Eric Shelton his 4-month stint at LTO.  Hopes were high as my waiter placed it before me.  Hopes were dashed as I took my first bite.  Again, an excellently cooked piece of fish, highlighted by the maple sweetness of the crispy, albeit very small, piece of bacon.  The "LT" part of the deconstructed dish left quite a bit to be desired.  Adorned with edible flowers (a nice surprise), the field greens seemed to have been overdressed with the lemon aioli.  The confit tomato tasted as if it had been drenched in vinegar and was unpalatable to my tastebuds.  The description stated there was a balsamic glaze, however, the only evidence of balsamic I could see was a thin line streaked down the center of my plate.  The presentation appeared a bit sloppy and I would have preferred my salmon sitting atop a small bed of "LT".

4. Velvet Hammer Glazed Belly - I love a well-executed pork belly.  The glaze was rich, but perfectly suited to the heartiness of the mostly fatless pieces of pork.  The panko poached egg had no flavor and, again, the bed of greens it was sitting atop tasted to have been drenched in vinegar.  The description made mention of apple, but, if included in the dish, definitely escaped my powers of detection.

Chef Eric Shelton's menu contains interesting pairings and innovate ideas.  My dining experience, on the whole, was enjoyable.  The flavor profiles of each dish's intended star were spot on, but the sides lacked some much-needed attention. 

I am afraid I will not be returning to LTO during Chef Shelton's tenure, but I do look forward to seeing where he heads next.

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Twenty-4-Chairs - Dallas

Not too long ago, I had the distinct pleasure of making the acquaintance of Chef Joe Letteri.  Italian born, Boston raised and Dallas transplanted, he was buoyant and bursting as he detailed the fine dining experience he was seeking to cultivate in the Dallas area.

The idea is simple: an intimate "dinner party" where the guest list caps at 24 people, involves, at least, 7 - 9 courses and features fresh, local ingredients. Guests are encouraged to dine lazily, the European way, savoring each bite.  Communal dining is required and conversation is encouraged. Dinner service begins promptly at a predetermined time and guests are forewarned that a late arrival does not guarantee their entry into the dining room.

I arrived at the secret location, only disclosed upon a confirmed RSVP, and was pleasantly surprised to receive a warm greeting and welcome from the Chef himself.  The floor staff consisted of two individuals, neither of which, to my dismay, introduced themselves as such, but were involved in serving, bussing and attending to the needs of the diners.  Their attentiveness throughout the evening waned only once, as my finished plate continued to linger before me even as the next course arrived.  Whether out of necessity or desire, Chef Letteri maintained a presence in the dining room throughout the evening, conversing with guests and answering any questions, and was quick to correct the oversight. 

While tastefully appointed, minimal decorations made it clear that Chef Letteri intended to focus on the food and the experience, not the dining room.

Eight courses were presented for consumption and below you will find the highlights and lowlights of the evening.

The first course to arrive was a potato leek soup with walnut pesto and white truffle oil.  The dollops of pesto lightly floating on a sea of white beckoned to me as I slowly dipped my spoon.  The texture of the soup was thick and creamy as it coated my tongue, but the flavor was light and airy, with the only interruption being the slight crunch of walnut, adding a nuttiness to an otherwise decidedly "leek-y" dish.  The truffle oil added a nice finish and lent a hint of earthiness that captivatingly complimented the bright punch of the leeks.

A Swai fillet arrived, sitting atop a blue crab cake and drizzled with truffle cream.  The first thing I noticed was the amazing carmelization on the outside of my Swai.  A slight glimpse of the crab cake underneath, revealed a perfect sear with a gorgeous crust.  The fillet was cooked to perfection, flaking gently with the pressure of my fork and seasoned only with a modicum of salt and pepper, allowing the freshness to shine.  The crab cake was a delicate mix of fresh crab and breadcrumbs, providing for a texture and taste that practically melted in my mouth and the touches of truffle cream provided a nice finish.

Beef tenderloin was served on a bed of cauliflower mousse with a side of roasted asparagus.  While the combination may sound pedestrian, do not let the simplicity fool you.  The cut, quality and preparation of the beef tenderloin did not require the use of a knife and allowed the meat to melt away the instant I placed the fork in my mouth.  The mousse was velvety smooth lending a heavenly note to the dish.  The slight crunch provided by the asparagus gave a necessary punch to the dish.  The flavor profiles were spot on, with seasonings kept to a minimum, allowing the quality of the ingredients to come through.

One disappointment to the evening was a Maine lobster with roasted chick peas and a pindi chana masala.  At first glance, the dish piqued my interest and I was intrigued by the pairing.  At first taste, however, I was let down and instantly confused about the decision to serve these ingredients together.  If the aim was to evoke an Indian flavor profile, Chef Letteri failed.  Instead, the overwhelming taste of cumin leant itself to a dish that was born and bred in Mexico, slightly reminiscent of a store bought packet of taco seasoning.  To add injury to insult, the lobster was completely drowned out by the seasoning, and, being perfectly cooked, would have shown nicely otherwise. 

Chef Letteri also served a dish combining venison back strap, poached pears, wild mushrooms and hand-rolled gnocchi.  The dishes were originally conceived as separate entrees, with the gnocchi being served on its own, and should have stayed that way.  The venison rested atop the poached pears, which were drizzled with a sweet caramel sauce.  The gnocchi and the mushrooms, however, appeared to have been placed on the dish as an afterthought, lacking any flavor, including salt or pepper, and coming across as dull and lifeless on my palate.  The saving grace of the dish was the combined bite of the venison, pear and caramel sauce.  The sweetness of the pear and caramel served as a delightful pairing to the gaminess of the venison.   

As the final course, a potato gelato was served, garnished with a ruffled potato chip and drizzled with chocolate sauce.  The gelato was firmer than I would have anticipated and lacked the creaminess I expected, however, to my surprise, the only hint of potato that I detected was in the slightly grainy finish.  The dish was adequately sweet and did not have the starchy quality I expected, with the chocolate sauce giving an extra sweet kick.   

By the conclusion of the dinner, my appetite was satiated and I had walked away with a gaggle of new friends, courtesy of the communal dining.  Chef Letteri is innovative and forward-thinking, using commonplace ingredients in unexpected combinations.  I eagerly anticipate my next invitation and give a hearty, "Optimo!" for his efforts, concluding, as he would, with hopes to see you all...at the table.