Portraits of Zagreb

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Črnomerec 7:00 am

Črnomerec is considered the crossroads of Zagreb. It is a train and a bus station which connects all of the small parts of the city together. People arrive early in the morning and often leave late at night. The weather conditions do not matter, it is always crowded.

-A cloudy morning at Črnomerec, one of the main public tram & bus stations in Zagreb.

-An elderly couple tries to buy tram tickets. They are confused because they cannot find place to buy their tickets.

-On a wall by the tram tracks, Suvada sells stuff that her friends give her. Three years ago she lost her business. On a good day she can get 300 kunas.

Dino Zurak, Ivan Štengl, Nikola Noah Zorica  

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DOLAC MARKET AND BAN JELAČIĆ SQUARE - Friday, May 6, 2016, 8 a.m.

It’s 8 a.m. While Zagreb is waking up, the kumice at Dolac Market are already working hard. Dolac is the most famous farmer’s market in Zagreb, located just above the main square. Begun in 1926, this gastronomic oasis has offered the best domestic produce from Croatian farmers for 90 years. People from villages near Zagreb come here every day to sell their fresh domestic products. On one corner you can find vegetables and fruits, and just a few steps further you can buy hand-made souvenirs and traditional food such as home-made honey and a variety of local cheese. The picturesque atmosphere of Dolac, the different aromas and flavors and always smiling sellers are probably the main reason why people always come back here.

Dolac – kumica Đurđica and statue of market woman Barica

Dolac is well known for kumice, market ladies, who are a symbol of Croatia’s markets. The legendary kumica from Dolac, Đurđica, who was a model for the famous statue Barica, has worked here for 54 years. Kumica Barica, the well-known statue that stands at the entrance to Dolac, represents all the market women at Dolac. The main problem is that less and less people buy fresh and domestic products at markets. They replaced the tradition of shopping at the open air market with shopping in supermarkets.

Dolac/Ban Jelačić Square – Flower sellers

Dolac is not only about food products, it is a place filled with colorful flowers. Just below Dolac, on the way to ban Jelačić square, is another small open market where you can buy flowers. A young girl buys flowers for her house from the ladies that sell them in the passageway from Jelačić Square to Dolac. The girl is immersed in the choice of what flowers to buy. There are several kinds of flowers: tulips, roses, chrysanthemums.

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Ban Jelačić square is one of the most well-known places in Zagreb. If you want to see a lot of tourists taking pictures (mainly Asians) or talking about the big statue of ban Jelačić this is the place for you. But Jelačić square isn't just a place for tourists, it's a place where all the locals frequently pass through while going to the places around the square, like Tkalča, Dolac and Flower Square. The square has a prominent place called 'the clock.' At 'the clock' you can always see people waiting to meet friends, family and dates.

Also, Jelačić Square is very well connected with Zagreb’s tram system, so it’s always busy. People always mill around there, even in the coldest winter and the hottest summer. You can see a diverse amount of people. Some are happy, others are bored. Also, you can see really weird fashion choices that might make you question the sanity of the person wearing it.

But, all in all, people are what make Jelačić square a lively and buzzing place.

Ban Jelačić Square – the statue of ban Jelačić on a horse

The central square in Zagreb was named Ban Jelačić Square after ban Josip Jelačić. The heart of the square is the proud statue of ban Josip Jelačić on a horse, that many tourist and even some locals like to take a picture. While “under the clock” is not the only popular meeting point on square, “under the horse’s tail” is also popular meeting point for locals.

Ema Duljaj/Petra Mrkoci/Antonela Petrov/Emina Prljača

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Student dorms “Stjepan Radić” (8.30 a.m)

The student dorms are a place where almost all students have the best days of their life. They spend at least five years there, arriving as teenagers and leaving as grownups. A lot of students make long life friendships and relationships, but also they learn how to take care of themselves. Usually, the dorms are always filled with laughter and noise, but this morning it is quiet and calm.

88 years after death of Stjepan Radić, his statue guards one of the biggest student dorms in Zagreb. Named after him, the student dorms “Stjepan Radić,” are more popularly referred to as “Sava.” They were built in 1961.

The day in the dorms starts when trucks deliver groceries and food to the canteens and grocery store. For most students this is the time for them to go to class.

The hallway is empty in the morning because students are at their faculties or in bed. Only cleaners walk down the hall, doing their job.

There are twelve buildings inside the dorms. Number 2 is the most popular because it has a great view of the courtyard, where there are usually organized events. But whoever wants to live in building 2 must be ready for noise and music all day and all night because all the clubs and cafes are on that side of dorms.

Anja Ćurić and Lucija Eichler

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Central Railway Station, 8-9am

The Central Railway Station is one of the spots in Zagreb always full of crowds, from early morning until late at night. Despite all the crowds, there is always room for good causes and humanitarian actions. As a first stop in Zagreb for suburban commuters and tourists who arrive by train, the Central Railway Station is the place where you can meet people with all kinds of stories. Some of them are waiting for the trains, some for the trams and some are waving goodbye or welcoming their loved ones back. Central Railway Station is all about waiting.

Daily communication between employees of railway station makes train traveling possible and pleasant every day.

The first thing you probably ever do when you come to Zagreb’s Main Railway Station is check the tram schedule and find out when the next tram should arrive. When it rains, make sure you have an umbrella, because you might have to wait a bit longer for your transport to arrive.

“Some of the books have ridiculous prices, from 5 kn to 200 or 300 kn. People only buy cheaper ones and try to steal the more expensive ones. We have to be like hawks to prevent it,” says the book seller for a humanitarian action for a hospital for war veterans. Their location is also on the Central Railway Station where they stay in tents and try to sell books. The sellers claim to have a good time while they do something for a good cause.

Nikolina Sedmak, Iva Tadić, Jelena Pankretić, Ines Švagelj, Matea Vidić, Katarina Šapina, Mateja Vukomanović

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Upper Town in the morning

Once a home for the free citizens of Gradec, the Upper Town today is a place where the past of Zagreb is most vivid. So, it is not surprising that many museums are found there. Even the scene of politicians going to Banski dvori and the Sabor can't spoil the beauty of old buildings, unique churches and famous monuments that make the Upper Town.

Where the upper and lower town touch the sky

People come to the Upper Town when they want to relax from the noisy streets of Zagreb. Almost a thousand years separate these two parts of the city. Because of its long history, tourists are likely to go there and explore the Upper Town.

Through locked love stories the neo-gothic cathedral towers over the city

It's a beautiful spot for locals and tourists to enjoy the view over the whole capital. The additional magic and romance is created when couples decide to lock their love stories. The neo-gothic cathedral, Kaptol, that towers over the city center is one of the most famous symbols of Zagreb.

The light of candles illuminates the most sacred part of the city

The light of candles shines and illuminates the dark gateway which leads to the Upper Town. The gate is a part of the old town Gradec and it was built in the 13th century. The statue of Dora Krupiceva stands there when people come to find comfort and hope. The light of candles is a symbol of wishes, thoughts and prayers.

Anita Juričan | Paula Latinović | Anita Kelava | Ines Ivaniš | Toni Lukić

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Sava bank, morning

Even though the bank of the Sava isn't usually on the top of tourists’ must see list, it's a place most people living in Zagreb often visit. Built as a safety net to protect the city of Zagreb from floods, it has come a long way. It's a perfect place for jogging, walking, exercising, and relaxing. Other than its recreational features, it hosts a variety of shows throughout the year, varying from music to art. Beautiful at all times of the year, it really is a must see for every visitor.

 ‘Jimmi Hendrix’ looks over the Sava river. Even though it's officially called the railway-green bridge, this bridge has colloquially been known as the Hendrix bridge for years after a youngster graffitted the rocker's name on it in 1995. 

A weeping willow sheds its tears into the Sava river. With the river flowing untamed and free, its biodiversity is genuinely diverse.

Johnny on the spot runs at the empty Sava Bank. It's a popular jogging spot throughout the day, but mornings are perfect if you prefer serenity. It can really get crowded past noon on a sunny day.

Tena Tuzla, Silvija Valjin

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Mirogoj

Located on the slopes of Medvednica mountain, which towers above Zagreb, Mirogoj is Croatia's biggest and most beautiful cemetery. Being one of the most important landmarks of Zagreb, Mirogoj receives thousands of foreign tourists each year. Tourists from all parts of Europe and the world are drawn to this cemetery for its unique arcades, moss covered monuments and mausoleums, and tree-lined paths. Graves of famous Croats, such as the late basketball player Dražen Petrović, Miroslav Krleža, one of the most prominent Croatian writers, and the country’s first president, attract thousands of mourners and visitors who wish to pay their respects. Or take a few selfies.

Mirogoj, often called the Pantheon of Croatian history, hides beautiful scenes like these paths down the lanes of endless columns and trees. It's famous for its majestic 19th century arcades, a masterpiece of renowned Austro-Hungarian architectect Herman Bollé.

Busy workers rise early each morning to pick up litter, wash the tombstones and trim the hedges to make sure the cemetery looks neat and beautiful to all who wish to pay respects to their dead or simply visit and go for a stroll.

A little girl chooses flowers with her family. The ancient tradition of decorating loved ones’ graves with flowers and candles brings unusual life, charm and color to the otherwise rather melancholic place where only death and silence reign supreme.

Ema Bašić, Arian Čorlukić and Ivan Grgurić.

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UPPER TOWN

The Upper Town is a place where Zagreb shows its romantic side. During the day it is mostly crowded with tourists who visit the numerous galleries and museums, while in the evening it turns into a perfect spot for couples to share their love. Upper town is also one of the oldest parts of Zagreb and its historical value is what makes it so unique.

A family vacation: ''We came here for a trip, kids are enjoying this sunny day. This is our first time in Croatia and we are staying for three days. So far we've seen 'uspinjača' and we think it's amazing''

A day trip: ''We are from the elderly people association called INA and we are about to see Crnčić's paintings in Klovićevi dvori. Also, we have an official e-mail address, so could you please send us the pictures you took?''

In the Museum of broken relationships we met a lovely lady who is working on the front desk. Just when we started taking pictures she said: ''Could you please come back in two weeks, I just started a new diet and in two weeks I will look much better!'' Despite being nervous at first, she uncovered her real self very fast:  ''It is really cozy here and it's a really nice place to work at. People who come are usually on vacation so they transfer their good energy to me.''

Nika Mokos/ Nika Prpić/ Zlata Cetina Terzić

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The Upper Town at noon

The Upper Town, once known as Gradec, is one of the oldest parts of Zagreb. It offers many historical sites and museums. It is easy to climb up to using the many surrounding stairs, or you can use Uspinjača (funicular). Every day a cannon is fired at 12 o'clock. After that, everything seems to become more alive: the ZET workers have more rides on the funicular, the old architecture is embellished with the sun rays and the tourists fill the Upper Town.

The fence on the promenade is used as a place to put on the locks that represent the love between two people. After the key is thrown,  the lock symbolizes their everlasting love.

One path leading to the Gornji Grad (the Upper Town) are the Mlinske stairs on Tkalčićeva street. Easily found, the stairs are surrounded by blue walls illustrated with cats playing various instruments.

The Strossmayer viewpoint offers one of the most beautiful views of Down Town Zagreb. The red tiled roofs and towering cathedral are the center's trademark.

 Tijana Jakovljević/ Lucija Janković/ Marijana Krištof/ Nika Obučina/ Valnea Vrević

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Ban Jelačić square and Dolac market in noon

The heart of Zagreb and it’s most popular meeting spot, Ban Jelačić Square is a great place to start of discovering the city. Situated in the center of  Zagreb, this is also the city’s biggest square. Dolac, Zagreb’s most famous fresh food market, is located right above the main square. It’s definetly worth paying a visit to. Dolac will charm you with its lively atmosphere and picturesque corners, just waiting to be explored.

Zagreb’s cathedral overshadows the crimson umbrellas of Dolac market. The area vibrates with life and the murmur of buyers and sellers negotiating prices.

A spectrum of  intensely colored flowers can be seen on the upper part of the market.

A man dressed as an Egyptian pharaoh preforms on Zagreb’s main square.

Darija Ilić Estera Alić

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Dolac at noon

Dolac is the most visited market in Zagreb, (especially at noon) located in the city center.  If you want to buy fresh fish and salad, but also want to experience a traditional part of Zagreb, Dolac is the place to be 

The stairs to Dolac gather different generations and cultures.

The main entrance to Dolac is recognizable by a statue of the old lady sellers - "kumica"

Seeking the perfect thing to buy at Dolac might take a while.

 Eva Grgić / Ivona Grepo / Daniela Dolinar

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Student Center (12:30 p.m.)

The Student Center (SC) is the place shared by all students in Zagreb. It`s a place where they pick up their responsibilities but also enjoy being well-fed, careless human beings. Responsible ones, who find jobs, must come to SC to take student contracts so their employers can hire them. On the other hand, responsible or not, every ordinary student gets hungry- luckily there is a student „Menza“(cafeteria)  offering tasty, not so tasty, healthy and not so healthy but most important cheap food! Behind the, always crowded , main building is a peaceful and not so well known backyard. It is equipped with an old, but cool skate park, some modern graffiti and refreshing green surfaces where students can find a breath of peace in their sometimes young, frenetic lives. 

Behind the main building of Student Center is a wall with graffiti, depicting superhero and other characters such as a Ninja Turtle, King Kong, Spiderman a Storm Trooper, Dinosaur and a robot. The author wanted to share his childhood memory about how his toys came alive at night and switched positions.

Skate park - also a place behind SC where lots of young people hang out and practice their skills. Everything is colorful but not too big.

A lot of students come to the SC with their bike. They say it is easier and way cheaper.

Lines for menzas are often too long but everything is moving really fast so you don`t have to wait for a long time to get your food.

In front of the SC lots of young people hang out, sit on the benches, talk to each other or wait for their friends so they can go eat together.

Ariana Ladišić / Barbara Ravbar /Tea Uzbašić

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Tkalčićeva street (13 p.m.)

The most vivacious street in the heart of Zagreb, full of cafes and restaurants is definitely one of the most recognizable features of Croatia's capital city. ‘Tkalča’ clearly represents a big part of the Croatian lifestyle. Activities like drinking coffee and hanging out with friends fill this place. Tkalca is always alive, the atmosphere is great and the street is full of interesting venues that anyone can enjoy and relax in.

Crowded and lively

Taking a walk and drinking coffee on the open air terraces from the pubs and restaurants on Tkalča. is a must when in Zagreb.

I <3 Zagreb

The side of this cafe shows a love gesturing for Zagreb. 

''Fakin Ipa''

The Local brewery ''Mali medo,''  shown here with this creative mural, offers an excellent selection of traditional Zagreb dishes and of course beer, attracts tourists and local people.

Ana H./ Dora / Nikoleta

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Džamija

What once was a mosque, the Džamija, today is the Home of Croatian Artists and serves as a space for exhibitions and events. But “Džamija,” as it is called in Croatian, is both a cultural venue and a place to rest. It is located on the Square of the Victims of Fascism (Trg žrtava fašizma) and with its greenery it is a perfect place for the dog lovers. People usually come here to take a break from work and daily stress. Džamija was designed by famous Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović in honor of King Peter I.

A man and his dog use colonnades of Džamija as a refuge from the usual city rush

Since there are not many parks around, people who live nearby like to walk their dogs to Džamija. It is surrounded with the hedgerows, making a boarder with the road. Considering its concrete surroundings, Džamija is like an oasis in this part of Zagreb.

The simplicity of the round shaped architecture under the blue sky is a pleasure for the eyes

The round shape of Džamija stands out among the surrounding corner-shaped buildings. The light colors of the building goes well with the natural surroundings and the whole construction is encircled with staircases that lead to a circular exhibition hall.

Different generations gather around Džamija

Džamija is a place where all the generations like to spend time. It isn’t strange to see elderly couples along with the skateboarders, students and people getting home from the work. Džamija attracts people because of its accessibility and beauty. As well as a resting place, passersby can almost always see banners announcing a new exhibition.

Ivona Mikulčić / Ana Marija Palić / Mihaela Prnjak

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Croatian National Theater (2 p.m.)

The Croatian National Theater is a place where music, ballet, opera and drama become magic. If you visit it in the afternoon, you won’t find many people. Dancers, singers and actors prepare for their roles so the main stage is closed for the visitors. But this afternoon, it was European Opera Day so the Croatian National Theater was filled with guests and opera singers. Every room, corridor and every set of stairs was made into an opera stage and everyone who was there could witness a little bit of opera magic.

Gordana Galzina, Martina Nakić i Lada Sekulić 

A joyful audience captures moments from opera "The Marriage of Figaro" on European Opera day.

A chubby cherub hangs from the ceiling in the Croatian National Theater.

In the Croatian National Theater, one quarter of the string quartet likes her violin strings and heels thin.

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Central Train Station / Tomislav Square (3 p.m.)

Tomislav Square and the central train station are two of the busiest places in Zagreb, especially during rush hour. It’s possible to find two opposites here: people who cannot wait to get home and people who carelessly enjoy the warm weather.

THE MAIN ENTRANCE 

 Thousands of people pass through the station’s main entrance every day.

THE FOUNTAIN

In the middle of the bustling city, people rest after a busy day. The fountain is a refuge from the noise and crowds near the main train station. 

THE SPIRIT OF THE CENTRAL STATION 

Colorful flowers raise the spirit of the central train station and put a smile on the faces of passerby.

Antonija M, Zrinka, Anamaria M

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The Croatian National Theater (2 p.m.)

The place where cultural and social life mix is Maršal Tito Square, home to the Croatian National Theater, a breathtaking building that sits in the center of the Square. In the afternoon this vibrant place combines two types of people: one heading for culture and others who wish to relax and take a break from a busy day.

The Theater is one of the most beautiful buildings in Zagreb. Used for plays, operas and ballet, it dates back to the 19th century. 

 The relaxing atmosphere the greenery around the Theater gathers people of all ages who tend to relax and enjoy the architecture around them.

In order to have a green area around the Theater this woman changes flowers every May and October. She enjoys her job, as it makes Zagreb green 

Flowers planted around the Theater give a special touch to its atmosphere. 

Because there is no sea in Zagreb, young people tend to play their version of ‘Picigin’ on the grass in front of the Theater. Sometimes on that green area people lay out and enjoy the sun.

Arijana Tkalčec/Josipa Vrankulj/Silvija Vuković