2003 Burgundy not as crappy as expected
I can’t think of a single sommelier pal that thought highly of 2003 as a vintage in Burgundy. Overall, the wines of 2003 in rest of France and Europe for that matter were just not that great. It was too damn hot. 2003 Bordeaux and Rhône Valley wines were heralded by American critics, but why? Low acid, massive powerhouses, not my thing. I remember working at The Austin Wine Merchant when the 2003 Burgundies were on the shelves and tasting through many, thinking they tasted like Rioja. Quite a few went to the close-out table.
A couple of days back at the Beaune Imports tasting in SE Portland, the importer had one older selection, Domaine de Montille from 2003, its Pommard, Les Grands Epenots. It was not as crappy as I was as I expected.
The color was garnet-ruby with medium concentration and a wide rim variation. The bouquet was black tea, crème brûlée, fresh cranberry, cherry skin, raspberry jam [definitely a warm weather characteristic], citrus pith, warm brioche. The palate retained medium acidity [almost hit medium-plus], medium tannin, velvety texture with medium body and hard stone minerality on the long finish.
I was surprised to say the least, but a legendary producer makes great wine even when Mother Nature stacks the cards against him. Anthony Garcia http://twitter.com/wineisdivine