#300x

[becausethathappens]

this is official.

[merpmonde]

Japan's rail speed record holder: 300X

Sticking with the Tôkaidô Shinkansen and the SCMaglev & Railway Park, this is the (highly abridged) story of the fastest conventional train in Japan.

Following privatisation and sectorisation in the 1980s, and seeing France and Germany take the lead in the high-speed train department, the three JR companies that had Shinkansen lines set about catching up to offer 300 km/h services where they could. The aerodynamics and sheer weight of the venerable 0 Series and its derivatives weren't going to cut it, so each company designed a prototype train to test new technologies.

JR Tôkai's solution was 300X, officially Shinkansen Class 955 - numbers starting with 9 are trains not open to the public, either prototypes or work trains like Class 923 "Doctor Yellow". Launched two years after JR West's WIN350 and JR East's STAR21, it featured two radically different end cars. The more elegant one, in my opinion, is on display at JR Tôkai's museum in Nagoya, while the other is preserved at JR Group's research centre in Maibara. The intermediate cars have all been scrapped.

The three prototypes took turns to hold the national rail speed record, and, 300X being the last, it took the record last, and holds it to this day. We mentioned the fact that the Tôkaidô Shinkansen still had too many relatively tight turns, but the Maibara to Kyôto stretch is the best part, and that's where this train hit 443 km/h in 1996. This video may, or may not, be that run, but it still looks very fast - note the unusually large, "flying saucer" pantograph cowlings.

Unless JR East decide to go completely bonkers with their ALFA-X prototype, it's unlikely that the record is going to be beaten any time soon. It's not in the spirit of these trains, they are pure test beds and run quite extensively with the aim of increasing service speeds. Records also require special preparation of the tracks, which is why the French TGVs made their 1990 and 2007 record runs before the opening of a brand new line.

But JR Tôkai have gone much faster with their Maglev programme, which holds the world speed record for passenger trains outright with 603 km/h. Behind 300X at the museum is a predecessor of that record holder, MLX01, the first Maglev train to clock over 500 km/h. Again, this is not (just) showboating, the lengthy test programme's main aim is to prove that consistent service at very high speed with this technology is feasible, so that the Maglev Chûô Shinkansen can achieve this when it opens (if Yamanashi-ken can agree on a route).

[iconsratedr]

Rihanna via Instagram Stories

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[aerospaceage]

One of the World's most sharpest Tele Lenses, showing a 300x Zoom on Moon! 4K, UHD, Leica 2.8/400 mm.

[uscarssince1935]

1966 Chrysler 300X Concept

My tumblr blogs:

www.tumblr.com/germancarssince1946 & www.tumblr.com/frenchcarssince1946 & www.tumblr.com/englishcarssince1946 & www.tumblr.com/italiancarssince1946 & www.tumblr.com/japanesecarssince1947 & www.tumblr.com/uscarssince1935 & www.tumblr.com/swedishcarssince1946

[rc-helicopter]

Hi all,

I've noticed that my Align T-Rex 300x has some play in the swash plate:

If I adjust the pitch to have 0º angle

Then I can move the blade to 1.3º just by slightly wiggling it, without any amount of force, and without the servo protesting.

See the photos below

This is my first normal size helicopter, so I don't know if this is normal:

Should I change the swash plate, or can I keep going?

Can I fly until I receive the new swash plate?

What is the normal / safe amount of play?

Also, if some play is acceptable, then should I take it into consideration when I level the swash plate? Like, I should measure the average angle between two extremities of the play (for example, 0º and 1.3º, the angle is 0.7º)?

Well, any hint will be helpful.

Have a nice weekend.

[EDIT]

Before changing any piece, be sure that the play does come from it. Check for linkage going down to the servos: ball links on the head, servo links, ball links on the servo horns, servo horns, the servos themselves. Go also up to the head, checking for play in DFC links, DFC ball links and motor grips. Check for any loose screw, cracked ball link, etc.

[rc-helicopter]

The issue with elevator servo

The solution I’ve implemented so far is looking for a compromise where the servos are not very far from center, the servo links are within safe limits, and the swash plate is completely level: - Both aileron servo links: Fully screwed (no pun intended). - Elevator servo link: Fully screwed on both ends, and then unscrew 1 full turn the linkage rod. This is like unscrew 1x each ball link. -  Both DFC links (those attached to the rotor grip arms):  - Plastic ball link: fully screwed and CA glued.  - Metal-to-metal screw: unscrewed one full turn.

With this arrangement I managed to have: - Swash plate: leveled - Aileron servo arms: a tad lower than horizontal - Elevator servo arms: a tad higher than horizontal

When trimming the servos, I also achieved a “blue OK” light from the MicroBeastX, meaning that servo ranges are large enough.

Been flying 12 accumulators so far (a little above 1h), and this is my found no particular problem that I could relate to this issue: - The helicopter flies stable, - The only maneuver I dare to perform at full pitch is push ups and down, and the helicopter is stable also there. - But, when hovering, I can feel that it pull a little to the right and backwards.

I believe that the pulling is related to my lack of experience trimming the servos. I’ve ordered the official T-Rex 300x swash plate leveler to see if I can fix the pull.

Also, I feel that the elevator link rod is a bit on the scary side, so I’m not completely satisfied with the solution. I’m currently looking at other kits, see if I can find a suitable replacement part.

[rc-helicopter]

Cut the wires to the ESC connector real short.

The T-Rex 300x has very little space in the canopy. If leads are too long, It’s going to be difficult to close the canopy. This is particularly true if you’re using a non official LiPo battery like the Tattu, which has a XT60 connector with AWG12 wires. Instead of preparing yourself and calm your mind, you’re going to struggle with the canopy while the wires are making all sorts of crazy loops in it’s belly.

To solve this problem, I cut the wires real short, and I let them go outside of the velcro loop. As they’re so short, there is no risk they bother the motor (being an outrunner, nothing should touch it)

Alternatively, there is this solution (look at minute 7:00)