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Akil Chaymbers - GrassRoots
Akil Chaymbers – GrassRoots
Akil Chaymbers – Grass Roots.
Ammaar Dawson stage name Akil Chaymbers is a young aspiring artist coming out of the east end of Scarborough, Ontario. “I love expressing my creativity through music. I’m really looking forward to my journey as a new artist and all the experiences and new people it brings.” For some reason people love to think that to be a rapper you must have gone through some sort…
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Akil Chaymbers - GrassRoots
Akil Chaymbers – GrassRoots
Akil Chaymbers – Grass Roots.
Ammaar Dawson stage name Akil Chaymbers is a young aspiring artist coming out of the east end of Scarborough, Ontario. “I love expressing my creativity through music. I’m really looking forward to my journey as a new artist and all the experiences and new people it brings.” For some reason people love to think that to be a rapper you must have gone through some sort…
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*FREE* Street Style Portraits. DT, Toronto (Nov 30th & Dec 1st) #underground
IF YOU’D LIKE TO BE APART OF SOMETHING HUGE TODAY & YOUR IN THE DOWNTOWN AREA GIVE ME A SHOUT. I’ll be Downtown working on my final photography assignment for this semester.
What i’ll be doing is stopping interesting people on the street and taking a…
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#FashionFridays: "Summer Chic" - 60's Inspired Pool Pin Up | BTS Shoot W/ Jennifer Conley Images
A behind the scenes look at Jennifer Conley’s Photo-shoot submission for Elléments Magazine.
Photographed By: Jennifer Conley Images | @JenniferVConley (Twitter)
https://www.facebokcom/JenniferVConleyImages
https://www.JenniferConleyPhotography.tumblr.com
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#Underground #VibeOut W/ KEALEN - Lemons and Green Tea
A good friend of mine sent me an invite to FB “like” a page that she stumbled upon while she was surfing Facebook.
The name of the page is Kaelen (https://www.facebook.com/Kaelenx)
I was a bit sceptical at first because when I clicked the link a image…
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New Evidence of "Mermids" | #Underground
New Evidence of "Mermids" | #Underground http://wp.me/s3q0W6-mermaids
On March 6th 2013 Dr. Paul Robertson & Dr. Torsten Schmidt recored mind boggling footage of what seems to be some sort of underwater creature swiming 3000 ft below the earths surface off the shores of Greenlands Nature Reserve (the largest in the world).…
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Exposure Control
I think one of the most important things to understand in photography would be exposure. It controls everything about your images from the way it makes you feel to how sharp the image will turn out. Usually depending on how much light is available for the photograph but there are also other factors that control the exposure of an image. These factors make it able for us to achieve images with the same exposer but with different camera setting. You may be sacrificing things like detail for noise or shallow depth for a faster shutter. Learning how to control your exposure can help you become more creative with your photography. Even if your just taking a photo of someone riding a bicycle, with a slower shutter speed pan in the direction that the bicycle is moving to achieve a motion blur, your subject will be sharp and in focus while the background is blurred. Achieving the same exposure is possible with a faster shutter speed to freeze all the motion in the image by chaging to a faster shutter speed and compensating your ISO & Aperture
Factors that affect Exposure
1.Aperture 2.Shutter Speed 3.ISO
Aperture (f-stop) Refers to the opening in the lens that lets light through to the cameras sensor. It opens and closes similar to the iris of your eye. The lower the number, the wider the opening and therefor more light can reach the sensor.
Example: The Average 50mm Lens Ranges From f:1.8 to f:22 (Largest) f:1.8, f:2.8, f:4, f:5.6, f:8, f:11, f:16, f:22(Smallest)
f:1.8 is the largest lens opening & smallest f:# f:22 is the smallest lens opening & largest f:#
As you close down the f:stop (make it smaller), the amount of light entering the camera reduced by ½. Example - f:1.8 to f:2.8
As you open up the f:stop (make it larger), the amount of light entering the lens is increased by 2 times. Example - f:22 to f:16 Shutter Speed Refers to the length of time the cameras sensor is exposed to light. The job of the shutter is to freeze or blur motion, as well as opening and closing to allow light in to expose the sensor. The longer the exposure the more light there is to expose the image. The shutter speed on a camera can range from a 30 second exposure to 1/8000th of a second exposure time. Most cameras today come with a "B" or bulb mode. This Setting allows you to keep the shutter open for as long as you want. Bulb mode is great to use when photographing things like Lightning and Fireworks or just being creative.
Usual numbers on a shutter speed dial: 2, 4, 8, 15, 30, 60, 125, 250, 500, 1000. (These numbers are read in fraction) Example - 1/60th of a second
Shutter Speed Relationship to Light Increasing the shutter speed from 1/60th to 1/125th doubles the shutter speed by 2(2x) and decreases the light by 1/2 Decreasing the shutter speed from 1/500th to 1/250th reduces shutter speed by ½ and increases the light by 2(2x) ISO Refers to the light sensitivity of the sensor. All cameras have an ISO sensitivity rating. As the number increase, so dose the sensitivity to light for Example: 100 ISO to 200 ISO. The speed doubles (2x), so dose the sensitivity to light. Now it’s like doubling the amount of light hitting the sensor. The higher the ISO the more sensitive the sensor is to light meaning that your image will also start appearing progressively grainer (digital noise) as your ISO gets higher. Decreasing the ISO works in the opposite way. When the ISO Number is lowered so is its sensitivity to light.
Example: 400 ISO to 200 ISO. The film speed is cut in half (½) and so is its sensitivity to light. Now it’s like reducing the amount of light hitting the sensor. An ISO's that is 1600 or under are usually safe to take photos with out having to worry about grain.
Light Meter In camera light meters read reflective light (light that is reflected off of the subject) and help to make educated guess of the exposure. The sliding scale measures from -3 to +3 and each number represents 1 whole f-stop. The light meter and sliding scale work hand in hand to give you the most accurate exposure reading. Line up the indicator as close to Zero for a correct exposure. Minus means your photograph may be under exposed and plus means your photography may be over exposed. Under or over exposing an image can be done for an artistic feel.
Light Meter Modes Centre Weighted Metering - Average of centre plus surrounding Evaluative Metering - Evaluates all points equally Spot Metering – Reading of the center 3-6 degrees only
"Rule of Thumb" Freeze Motion - Fast shutter speed (may need high ISO) Show Motion - Slow shutter speed (may need low ISO) Night or Long Exposure - Very slow Shutter Speed (tripod recommended) Shooting in very dim light - High ISO Shooting in very bright light -Low ISO
When to "Ignore" the Meter Backlit Subjects: When there is more light behind your subject than there is illuminating it.
Backlight "fixes" Remove the backlight Change Positions Fill light on the subject with a flash or reflector Manually open aperture beyond what the light meter suggests.
Thank’s For Checking Out My Page, I Hope You’ve Learned Something.
- ADavyRaw
Understanding DOF (Depth of Field)
“Depth of Field” can simply be explained as to how much of your image is in focus in-front or behind your subject. DOF can be controlled through the camera with the use of a lens with automatic capabilities or on the lens if it only function manually.
Their are 3 things to Factor into Depth of Field.
1.Lens Aperture 2.Lens Focal Length 3.Focus Distance
What is Aperture?
Aperture refers to the space which light passes through an optical or photographic instrument, esp. the variable opening by which light enters a camera.
You might hear some people refer to aperture as “F-Stop” this is perfectly fine because they are the same thing. The “F-Stop” number refers to the size of the apertures opening through the lens.
Sizes range from f.1 which would be a large opening in the lens letting lots of light through also know as “wide aperture” and go all the way up to f.32 which would be a very small opening in the lens letting very little light through also know as “small aperture”.
The size of the opening is what ultimately controls the Depth of field. When the aperture is wide open the image would have a Shallow DOF meaning less area in front or behind the subject would be blown out & only the subject would be in focus. When using a small aperture their would be Great or Higher DOF meaning that not only would the subject be in focus, but also whats in front & whatever is behind.
Standard Full-Stop F-Number Scale
f/0.7 - f/1.0 - f/1.4 - f/2.0 - f/2.8 - f/4.0 - f/5.6 - f/8.0 - f/11 - f/16 - f/22 - f/32 Large Aperture < - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -> Small Aperture More Light Strikes Sensor < - - - - - - - - - - - - - > less light Strikes Sensor Shallow Depth Of Field (focus) < - - - - - - - - - > Deep Depth of Field (focus)
Lens Aperture •Main reason for changing a lens aperture is to adjust exposure •Aperture alters Depth of Field •The smaller the aperture the more Depth of Field
Lens Focal Length •Variations in Depth of Field resulting from focal length alone are due to image magnification •The wider the lens the more depth of field seems to increase •The longer the lens the more depth of field seems to decrease
Focus Distance •The closer you are to the subject the greater the reduction in Depth of field •The greater the distance you are from your subject the greater the depth of field
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Image #1: Canon 5D Mkiii with 50mm 1.4 - f/1.4 - 1/6400s - ISO 800 Image #2: Canon 5D Mkiii with 50mm 1.4 - f/16 - 1/50s - ISO 800
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Thank's For Checking Out My Page,
I Hope You've Learned Something.
- ADavyRaw
