ADavyRaw

I'm Andrew Davy, A 22 year old photographer from Toronto, Canada. I specialize in portraits, night life, family / corporate events, fashion & street photography. My Tumblr is an educational blog, I will be posting educational content that is photography related. I'll try to have at least 1- 2 post per week. If there is anything you'd like to learn just send me a note. Thanks & Enjoy.

[adavyraw]

Window Light Portraits

Window light is one of the readily available natural light sources irrespective of any other climatic factors and the one which doesn’t cost the photographer any extra bucks. Window lighting has always played a major role in the movies some few decades ago. In Fine art Portraits window light plays a major role in those sensational indoor photographs. We the Photographers should take inspiration from the artists whose splendid paintings were those of models lit by the window light.

Tips

• Use a Tripod 

• ISO lowest possible to reduce noise

• “Freeze” the subject 

• Use reflectors to bounce light to fill unwanted shadows

• Vary poses 

• Vary your viewpoint

• Spot meter provides the best skin tone light reading

Keys

• Move the camera not the light  to get the lighting effect you want

• The closer the model is to the light the “harder” the light 

• Use window as architectural detail or to shoot through

• Model reflected in glass can add mood

• Shallow Depth of field adds interest

• Vertical

• Pay attention to Background

• Shoot close ups and farther back

Focus on the Eyes!!!!!!!!  

[adavyraw]

Compositional Techniques

Good Composition is a key element of good photographs yet is something that can be very hard to define.

instead of looking at composition as a bunch of rules to follow try looking at it as ingredients used to make a great 'meal' at anytime. Rarely will a chef ever use all the ingredients and spices at his disposal  to make a dish, so you should also think of it that way and try not to use all of the techniques at once but use them selectively to add a bit of flare to your photography. Remember there not rules just things we consider when setting up a shot.

Today I’d like to look at twelve of the ingredients (or tools, or elements) of composition that I draw on in my photography. They’re not ‘rules’ – just things that I consider when setting up a shot

 Simplicity

Keep information in a photograph simple

Avoid lines or objects that may lead the eye away from the subject

Keep backgrounds simple and uncluttered

    Rule of Third

Imaginary lines are drawn both vertically and horizontally

Lines are used as a guide for placing subject matter

Intercepting points are also used as a guide for placing subject matter

Balancing Elements

Using Rule of Thirds can sometimes leave a void in scene

Balance the weight of your subject by including another object of lesser importance

The second, lesser object will help fill the void

Lines

Eye is naturally drawn to lines

Lines pull us into the picture towards our subject matter

Can be straight, diagonal, s-curves, zigzag, radial ect.

Symmetry & Patterns

Surrounded by symmetry & patterns

Can be both real & man-made

  Point of View (POV)

High angle

Low angle

Far shot

Close shot

Anything but eye-level 

Framing

The world is full of perfect natural frames

Trees

Doorways

Holes

Even people 

Cropping

Eliminates background

Less “noise”

 Subject has the viewers attention

Fill the Frame

Eliminates the “noise” around the edge of the frame

Creates a clean environment for the subject

 Subject has the views attention

Reflection

Helps create a 3D scene

More effective when used with Rule of Thirds

  Shapes

Geometric shapes can help create balance

Shapes can also help lead your eye into your scene

  Avoid Merges

Avoid objects in the background from interfering with subject

[adavyraw]

Two Bikes on Queen St.

For some reason one of my favourite things to take photos of while shooting on the street is bicycles. People riding bicycles & bicycles that are locked up on the sidewalks. I don't know what it is that intrigues me to capture theses images but when I do I always pay attention to the surroundings of the image. only because i feel as is they must compliment the photograph along with the composition of the image.

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St. James Church - King st. & Church st.

This photograph was taken for a school assignment on architecture at the St. James Church located in Downtown, Toronto. 

To achieve such detail I had to use a small aperture setting with a slow shutter speed. My main focus was to expose for the stained glass so

Camera Settings: f.22 / 30 Seconds / ISO 100

Those settings gave me an exposure I was comfortable working with along with the detail that I wanted. In post I darkened the shadowed and black areas.

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Split lighting

Exactly what the name implies - It divides the face into two equal parts leaving half of the face in light and the other half in shadow. Often used to create dramatic effects in images for things such as portraits of a musician or an artist.

It is more affective when creating an image with a male subject than it is when done with a female subject because the lighting style tends to be more of a masculine pattern. Keep in mind that there are no "rules" when it comes to being creative with your photography so if this lighting style works for you & your subject then go for it. 

 To achieve split lighting simply put the light source 90 degrees to the left or right of the subject, and possibly even slightly behind their head. Where you place the light in relation to the subject will depend on the person’s face. Watch how the light falls on them and adjust accordingly. In true split lighting, the eye on the shadow side of the face does pick up light in the eye only. If by rotating their face a bit more light falls on their cheek, it’s possible their face just isn’t ideal for split lighting.

NOTE: any lighting pattern can be created on any facial view (frontal view showing both ears, or ¾ face, or even profile). Just keep in mind that your light source must follow the face to maintain the lighting pattern. If they turn their head the pattern will change. So you can use that to your advantage to easily adjust the patten just by them rotating their head a little.

[adavyraw]

  Exposure Control

I think one of the most important things to understand in photography would be exposure. It controls everything about your images from the way it makes you feel to how sharp the image will turn out. Usually depending on how much light is available for the photograph but there are also other factors that control the exposure of an image. These factors make it able for us to achieve images with the same exposer but with different camera setting. You may be sacrificing things like detail for noise or shallow depth for a faster shutter. Learning how to control your exposure can help you become more creative with your photography. Even if your just taking a photo of someone riding a bicycle,  with a slower shutter speed pan in the direction that the bicycle is moving to achieve a motion blur, your subject will be sharp and in focus while the background is blurred. Achieving the same exposure is possible with a faster shutter speed to freeze all the motion in the image by chaging to a faster shutter speed and compensating your ISO & Aperture 

Factors that affect Exposure

1.Aperture 2.Shutter Speed 3.ISO

Aperture (f-stop) Refers to the opening in the lens that lets light through to the cameras sensor.  It opens and closes similar to the iris of your eye.  The lower the number, the wider the opening and therefor more light can reach the sensor.

Example: The Average 50mm Lens Ranges From f:1.8 to f:22 (Largest) f:1.8, f:2.8, f:4, f:5.6, f:8, f:11, f:16, f:22(Smallest)

f:1.8 is the largest lens opening & smallest f:# f:22 is the smallest lens opening & largest f:#

As you close down the f:stop (make it smaller), the amount of light entering the camera reduced by ½. Example - f:1.8 to f:2.8

As you open up the f:stop (make it larger), the amount of light entering the lens is increased by 2 times. Example - f:22 to f:16 Shutter Speed Refers to the length of time the cameras sensor is exposed to light.  The job of the shutter is to freeze or blur motion, as well as opening and closing to allow light in to expose the sensor.  The longer the exposure the more light there is to expose the image. The shutter speed on a camera can range from a 30 second exposure to 1/8000th of a second exposure time.  Most cameras today come with a "B" or bulb mode. This Setting allows you to keep the shutter open for as long as you want. Bulb mode is great to use when photographing things like Lightning and Fireworks or just being creative.

Usual numbers on a shutter speed dial:  2, 4, 8, 15, 30, 60, 125, 250, 500, 1000. (These numbers are read in fraction) Example - 1/60th of a second

Shutter Speed Relationship to Light Increasing the shutter speed from 1/60th to 1/125th doubles the shutter speed by  2(2x) and decreases the light by 1/2 Decreasing the shutter speed from 1/500th to 1/250th reduces shutter speed by ½ and increases the light by 2(2x) ISO Refers to the light sensitivity of the sensor.  All cameras have an ISO sensitivity rating.  As the number increase, so dose the sensitivity to light for Example: 100 ISO to 200 ISO.  The speed doubles (2x), so dose the sensitivity to light.  Now it’s like doubling the amount of light hitting the sensor.  The higher the ISO the more sensitive the sensor is to light meaning that your image will also start appearing progressively grainer (digital noise) as your ISO gets higher. Decreasing the ISO works in the opposite way.  When the ISO Number is lowered so is its sensitivity to light. 

Example: 400 ISO to 200 ISO. The film speed is cut in half (½) and so is its sensitivity to light. Now it’s like reducing the amount of light hitting the sensor. An ISO's that is 1600 or under are usually safe to take photos with out having to worry about grain.

Light Meter In camera light meters read reflective light (light that is reflected off of the subject) and help to make educated guess of the exposure.  The sliding scale measures from -3 to +3 and each number represents 1 whole f-stop. The light meter and sliding scale work hand in hand to give you the most accurate exposure reading.  Line up the indicator as close to Zero for a correct exposure.  Minus means your photograph may be under exposed and plus means your photography may be over exposed.  Under or over exposing an image can be done for an artistic feel.

Light Meter Modes Centre Weighted Metering  - Average of centre plus surrounding Evaluative Metering  - Evaluates all points equally Spot Metering  – Reading of the center 3-6 degrees only

"Rule of Thumb" Freeze Motion - Fast shutter speed (may need high ISO) Show Motion - Slow shutter speed (may need low ISO) Night or Long Exposure - Very slow Shutter Speed (tripod recommended) Shooting in very dim light - High ISO Shooting in very bright light -Low ISO

When to "Ignore" the Meter Backlit Subjects: When there is more light behind your subject than there is illuminating it.

Backlight "fixes" Remove the backlight Change Positions Fill light on the subject with a flash or reflector Manually open aperture beyond what the light meter suggests.

Thank’s For Checking Out My Page, I Hope You’ve Learned Something.

- ADavyRaw

[adavyraw]

Understanding DOF (Depth of Field)

“Depth of Field” can simply be explained as to how much of your image is in focus in-front or behind your subject.  DOF can be controlled through the camera with the use of  a lens with automatic capabilities or on the lens if it only function manually.

Their are 3 things to Factor into Depth of Field.

1.Lens Aperture 2.Lens Focal Length 3.Focus Distance

What is Aperture?

Aperture refers to the space which light passes through an optical or photographic instrument, esp. the variable opening by which light enters a camera.

You might hear some people refer to aperture as “F-Stop” this is perfectly fine because they are the same thing.  The “F-Stop” number refers to the size of the apertures opening through the lens.

Sizes range from f.1 which would be a large opening in the lens letting lots of light through also know as “wide aperture” and go all the way up to f.32 which would be a very small opening in the lens letting very little light through also know as “small aperture”.

The size of the opening is what ultimately controls the Depth of field.  When the aperture is wide open the image would have a Shallow DOF meaning less area in front or behind the subject would be blown out & only the subject would be in focus.  When using a small aperture their would be Great or Higher DOF meaning that not only would the subject be in focus, but also whats in front & whatever is behind.

Standard Full-Stop F-Number Scale

f/0.7 - f/1.0 - f/1.4 - f/2.0 - f/2.8 - f/4.0 - f/5.6 - f/8.0 - f/11 - f/16 - f/22 - f/32 Large Aperture <  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -> Small Aperture More Light Strikes Sensor <  - - - - - - - - - - - - - > less light Strikes Sensor Shallow Depth Of Field (focus) <  - - - - - - - - - > Deep Depth of Field (focus)

Lens Aperture •Main reason for changing a lens aperture is to adjust exposure •Aperture alters Depth of Field •The smaller the aperture the more Depth of Field

Lens Focal Length •Variations in Depth of Field resulting from focal length alone are due to image magnification •The wider the lens the more depth of field seems to increase •The longer the lens the more depth of field seems to decrease

Focus Distance •The closer you are to the subject the greater the reduction in Depth of field •The greater the distance you are from your subject the greater the depth of field

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Image #1: Canon 5D Mkiii with 50mm 1.4 -  f/1.4 - 1/6400s - ISO 800  Image #2: Canon 5D Mkiii with 50mm 1.4 -  f/16  - 1/50s     - ISO 800 

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Thank's For Checking Out My Page,

I Hope You've Learned Something.

- ADavyRaw

[golfcake]

Conquered, New York

[adavyraw]

Such an amazing photograph. I feel as if I'm being sucked into this photo, Great example of depth of field.

[adavyraw]

Welcome

Hello tumblr!

My name is Andrew Davy, I'm a 22 year old photographer from Toronto, Ontario.  I'm currently studying photography at Durham College.  I've never used tumblr or really blogged about anything before so bear with me this is all new to me.  I plan on blogging on things photo & video related.  Things like tutorials, product reviews, rumours & what not. 

I also encourage you to leave me a note or message with a photographyor video related topic that you'd like me to cover. 

Thank's for checking out my Blog!!!

- ADavyRaw

Take a look at my website.  www.andrewdavyphotography.com

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