The Gorgeous Arrow Collar Man
Around 1905, J. C. Leyendecker, a talented illustrator, convinced the advertising executive for Arrow Collars to opt for his idea of selling collars by having them worn by “an ideal American man.” It was during what we call the golden age of American illustration when artists created images from life for magazine covers, for posters, and for advertisements. Others included Charles Dana Gibson who gave us the Gibson Girl, and Norman Rockwell who did many Saturday Evening Post covers. But Leyendecker has gone down in history for creating the Arrow Collar man whom you see above.
He was a fascinating combination of athlete, beau, and scholar. He was set in leisured places like the theater and at home among books at college and out on the golf links. He was one of the first “soft sells” where a way of living was for sale as much as a specific product. Yes, we can blame him for the idea of “lifestyle,” a word which drives me nuts when students apply it to everything, like the New England Puritans. But the soft sell worked and the Arrow Collar made women swoon and men wish they looked so good through the 1910s and 1920s.
These collars detached from the shirt, so they were actually a great way to save time and money by avoiding laundering the whole shirt. Which means the leisured Arrow Collar man would probably not have needed them. Laundry became easier and soft collars became fashionable, so the detachable Arrow Collar went out of style. J.C. or Joe Leyendecker, who was gay, used as his favorite model Charles Beach who was actually Canadian, never went to college, and became Leyendecker’s life partner as well, but, my, he looked good. Their relationship was well hidden during their lives.
All this is in J.C. Leyendecker: American Imagist by Laurence A. Cutler and Judy Goffman Cutler & the National Museum of American Illustration. It is a big coffee table book, with hundred of images, and sections on his biography and his work. And you can find it here: https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/jc-leyendecker-laurence-s-cutler/1102015531?ean=9780810995215