#backpackingescapes

[akalittlemisscrazy]

Backpacking Escapes Video - Europe & Asia 2018

[akalittlemisscrazy]

Backpacking Escapes: Phnom Penh

Our first stop after the long drive (this is definitely a reoccurring theme, we’ve been on A LOT of buses during our adventures) to Cambodia was the capital, Phnom Penh. I had absolutely no idea what to expect here, the only thing I had heard was Cambodia is even more old school Asia than Vietnam. Unintentionally we seemed to have planned our South East Asia route as if we were travelling back in time step by step. Either way I was looking forward to learning more about this country.

And God did we learn a lot. I’m actually ashamed to admit I had no idea about the atrocities the people here have endured. I'm just going to share a few photos of the beautiful places we visited before I go into the hard side of the city.

Just a tip we wished we'd known: that trusty combination of Thailand pants, tank top and shawl you've been using for temples across the rest of South East Asia? It unfortunately won't cut it in Cambodia. You have to wear a shirt that comes down to your elbow. No sheer cover ups are allowed. Unfortunately as we were unprepared for this we couldn't go into the Royal Palace. On the brighter side we did manage to get into Wat Phnom which was beautiful:

'Dine In The Dark' restaurants are becoming a worldwide attraction. After finding one of these restaurants with a Michelin Star rating for only $18 in Phnom Penh, we couldn't resist. The whole idea is to help you learn what it's like to be visually impaired. All of the staff are either partially or fully blind. Without a doubt I can tell you the whole experience was BRILLIANT. I would do this again in a heartbeat. You don't realise how difficult it is to do something as simple as pouring your can of Fanta into your glass until you can't see. All of your other senses become 10 times sharper and you notice the smallest sensations you'd usually take for granted. I have a greater appreciation for how fortunate I am now, and massive respect for the visually impaired who still make the most of their lives. And in truth they are probably far more mindful and aware of their surroundings than we are. We could learn a lot just by slightly changing our point of view - something I'm going to try to do more often when I get home.

WARNING: This post may be a bit difficult for some of you to read, so stop here if you really need to but I swear it’s important. It’s important we all become more worldly aware so hopefully in the future we can stop these catastrophic acts of cruelty before they escalate this far.

Pol Pot was Cambodian Prime Minister, and one of the leaders of the Khmer Rouge Regime. From 17th April 1975 under his extreme communist rule, up to a quarter of the population (the exact number is unknown but may be as high as 1.7 million people) were killed in under 4 years. Through manipulation they managed to convince foreigner visitors such as Sweden that the refugees were lying about the cruelty & corruption and that the country was actually free & at peace.

It is heart-breaking how this was allowed to happen with no-one realising the severity of the situation here. Members of the Khmer Rouge were shockingly allowed to represent at the UN for 12 years even after the first mass graves were opened.

Formal schools were prohibited and turned into prisons, stables and warehouses. Pagodas were also closed and they killed any monks who refused to disrobe.

196 such prisons have been identified. S-21, also known as Tuol Sleng Prison, used to be Chao Ponhea Yat high school. 14,000-20,000 people were tortured and killed here – the exact number and the identities of many victims are still unknown to this day. Only 7 known prisoners survived after the Vietnamese invaded. The site receives 250 visitors every day, some of whom are survivors tragically still looking for answers about their lost family.

City people and the well educated were seen as threats, and the village people (who Pol Pot called the Base People) were viewed the most important. However they still suffered. Everyone did. False confessions of crimes such as working for the CIA or KGB were forced by torture. A few samples of these confessions are on display, horrifically written in old school books presumably left over from the days when the prison was a simple innocent high school. Another twisted use of something once so pure was the gallows: an old school climbing frame turned into a torture device where prisoners were hung upside down and dunked in cold dirty water whenever they lost consciousness.

After years of death & cruelty, everything changed when suddenly on 7th January 1979 the prisoners were gathered up by panicked fully armed Khmer Rouge guards and forced to walk towards the Killing Fields. Some prisoners were killed on the spot and left in their cells. Fortunately for a lucky few the Vietnamese army intercepted the movement and some prisoners escaped. Unbelievably a couple of these survivors still come back to the prison every week to talk to visitors; to share their first hand experience and try to help us understand the unspeakable. All I can say about this is I’m so so impressed – it must take a remarkable amount of courage to come back and relive such a dark time in your life.

Words can't describe this place. Whether you believe in the supernatural or not, you can’t shake the feeling of being watched as you go around the prison. We felt uneasy the entire time; it’s really no surprise a place as hell-like as this feels haunted. Several rooms are so distressing we felt physically sick and had to sit down to try & clear our heads. Despite all this I’d urge you to visit. I'm glad I went and can only hope that if enough people learn and try our best, we can help improve the world we live in by learning from our past.

Another upsetting but 100% worth a visit location is the Killing Fields. This is one of the hundreds of mass grave sites scattered throughout the country.

After sunset truck loads of people were brought here, told they were being transferred to prevent panic or escape attempts. Some people may have hung on to this miniscule ray of hope, despite the fact they knew everyone who was “transferred” never returned. When the numbers of people were too high to kill immediately they were held in a wooden structure overnight. All sorts of tools were used to save the expense of bullets, from tree trunks to ox cart bars. Chemical DDT powder was placed on the bodies to finish off any survivors and cover up the smell.

9000 skulls are stored in 17 layers in the giant stupa at the centre of the site. This is a combination of Hindu and Buddhist design, protected by mythical Garudas And Nagas. I pray that somehow these victims have found peace wherever they are now.

Sorry for such a depressing post guys – I cried whilst going around these sites and a couple more times whilst writing this post. I promise the next 2 will be much more cheerful: despite this dark chapter of its history Cambodia is truly a stunning gorgeous place. But as I’ve stressed again and again, it’s important we learn about the darker side of history. Humanity needs to improve. This is not acceptable. We have to learn, find strength together and move on. Hopefully to a better future.

[akalittlemisscrazy]

Backpacking Escapes: Nha Trang

After 11 hours on a sleeperbus that arrived in Nha Trang at 5am, we flopped at our hostel with no plans for the rest of the day other than the Thap Ba Spa. The sleeperbus was actually a pleasant surprise – it was essentially 3 rows of bunk beds with a small compartment for your feet and only a slight tilt to the chair. This meant you could stretch out and get comfy. Having previously anticipated a very uncomfortable night resulting in a painful back, I’m pleased to say I slept far better than I thought I would and felt absolutely fine the next morning. I would definitely take sleeperbuses again as they’re a bit of fun and a great way to save time (provided you’re not travelling a ridiculous number of miles from one end of the country to the other).

We decided to try Thap Ba Spa to relax after our journey and because Nha Trang is famous for its mud bathes. This experience was not at all what I expected. I walked in expecting a thick clay-like bath; instead I found myself in a silky milk-like fluid containing exfoliating minerals. I’m not exactly a spa kind of girl but I admit I did enjoy this (though not quite as much as I enjoyed the pools afterwards). Personally I wouldn’t pay to do it again as I didn’t really notice a difference in my skin but if you fancy giving it a try go for it! It’s hilarious if nothing else. The funniest thing is you sort of float...not the bobbing kind of floating you get when you’re in the sea, but a 'why won’t my legs stay still' like you’re under an anti-gravity ray kind of float. You’ll also get a good laugh at looking at each other's strange green-brown faces and trying to work out how the mud literally gets everywhere. I described myself in this photo as looking like a happy version of the Hulk (with boobs as I was corrected.... thanks Ed👍).

Nha Trang is also well known for its snorkelling opportunities. We went out on a trip that involved 3 different locations and were rewarded with a selection of gorgeous views such as these:

There’s not much that we wanted to do in Nha Trang compared to other places, so I've not got much else to say. Nether the less I enjoyed our brief visit here and so far Vietnam has been a joy.

[akalittlemisscrazy]

Backpacking Escapes: Hoi An (+ Da Nang)

The next day was almost unbearably long but after a grand total of three buses, a ferry and a plane covering 984 kilometres we arrived in the delightful village of Hoi An. This is another Pinterest dream, looking ridiculously idyllic like it’s straight out of those fantasised versions of old school Vietnam – complete with lanterns everywhere, Non La conical hats and street vendors with their wares hanging in baskets from yolks over their shoulders.

Between our flight from Hanoi and our final bus, we had a couple of hours to grab something to eat and have a quick nose around Da Nang. Crossing the river I didn’t know which way to look. This city gets a 10 out of 10 for mastering the balance of stunning neon lights without overwhelming you. There were beautiful bridges lit up in a multitude of colours in every direction. My favourite was our reason for coming – the Dragon Bridge. This 666 metre long dragon lights up at night wonderfully, a wave of gorgeous contrasting colours.

Hoi An is a popular tourist destination that drastically comes alive at night. It sits on Thu Bồn river which is covered with floating lanterns every night. As an eco-nerd, I was very pleased to see that the next morning nearly all of the lanterns that had washed up on shore had been cleared away. You can rent a boat to take you through this magical wonderland for a decent price if you haggle a bit (we got it down to 100,000 Dong each, probably could have gone lower but we were happy with this price. Everything in Vietnam is so cheap!). I'd recommend getting one close to the bridge as this area is the most beautiful to look at. After your boat ride take time to wander the bank of the little island as there are a selection of gorgeous structures.

Day time in Hoi An is a completely different world – at least 10 times quieter and a different feel about it. The tickets available from various points around town will allow you entrance into 5 different historical sites around the town. My favourites out of the five we chose were Phuc Kien Assembly Hall and Quang Trieu Assembly Hall. The colours were bright and fantastic, but balanced perfectly so they didn't clash or take anything away from the beautiful gardens in the courtyards. The dragon sculptures in particular were mesmerising.

Hoi An traffic is much calmer than what we’d seen in the cities and easiest to get around on bike. Luckily our hotel offered us free bicycles to take wherever we liked. Don’t worry about leaving your bikes in the town, we felt it was very unlikely that anyone would take them. However make sure you park it somewhere recognisable as there are many many bikes around town and you may find yourself in a 'needle in a haystack' situation.

We even took our bikes out to An Bang beach, an easy flat 4 kilometre ride from town. Whilst slightly irritated by the fact we were charged 50,000 Dong to park our bikes, I’m so glad we took the time to explore this beach. The endless white sands are lovely and I couldn’t resist a quick splash in the sea. Unfortunately the waves were unpredictable and it wasn’t long until my Thailand pants were soaked. But I'm an absolute water-bug so as you can see I didn't really care! (Photo courtesy of Rachel Westwood, the selfie queen)

I’d definitely recommend Hoi An, it’s perfect for a quick visit or for a slightly longer romantic getaway! Either way I know I'll be back soon.

[akalittlemisscrazy]

Backpacking Escapes: Cat Ba

I didn’t fall in love with Vietnam until we reached Cat Ba. Whilst the city of Hanoi had a certain strange charm I wasn’t really enamoured by this hustling city. In comparison, from the second our ferry arrived on this island in Ha Long Bay and our bus took us on a beautiful drive through the countryside to the town, my eyes were glued to the window with a goofy grin on my face. I started writing this blog post whilst still on the bus, before I’d even started thinking about the Hanoi post. I couldn’t help the thrill and inspiration flowing through me as I gazed at the towering rocky formations covered in jungle rising up sharply amongst the wetlands. This was our first taste of rural Vietnam and it looked amazing. There are few feelings better than when all your Pinterest dreams become your reality.

Cannon Fort is only a 30 minute fairly steep walk or a short scooter/bike ride from where we were staying on the waterfront. This is the highest point in Cat Ba town and provides the most spectacular views of sunset. Because of this it is insanely popular, so arrive early or be prepared to weave through the gaps to get a good spot.

The good part about it being popular is you never know who you’ll meet or what you’ll end up doing – that’s how our adventures with a guy called Ace started. Having been impressed by “the girls who hiked in pyjamas” (got to love Thailand pants), Ace offered us a ride home so we could stay longer and not worry about walking back in the dark. We happily agreed and soon we were distracted and learning each other’s full life stories (down to the smallest strangest detail), leaving the sun plenty of time to disappear from the sky and leave us in complete darkness.

With no clue about where we actually were we opted for the “what the heck let’s go this way” attitude to finding our way out of the old fort. This was great fun until Rachel decided to freak me out and tell me it felt like Slender Man (if you’ve never seen or heard of this, you’re very lucky! It’s seriously creepy). Thanks hun -_-

We eventually escaped and went back down the mountain with 3 of us on one motorbike. You might think this sounds crazy, but the locals will happily fit 5 people on one bike with the driver scrolling through Facebook and the last person holding onto a sleeping toddler (I mean seriously, I get told I’m impressive for being able to fall asleep anywhere but I think this sets new limits). We finished off the night with one of the many brilliant restaurants & bars around town. The food was amazing, the pool game entertaining and it’s always a win when you get 3 delicious beers for only 45,000 dong in total (at time of writing this is £1.50).

Cat Ba Ventures are one of the many tour companies on Cat Ba that provide trips out to Ha Long Bay, and it was the one we’d heard the most about from other blogs online. Putting our faith in our fellow travellers, we choose the day trip that includes swimming, snorkeling and kayaking through the nearby cave system for a brilliant £22 (lunch included) along with 2 friends we’d made on the bus journey over. This trip was truly worth every single penny and more – I can see why Ha Long Bay is one of the most highly recommended places to visit in Vietnam. Masked slightly by a thin veil of mist, the hundreds of mountainous islands rise up out of the ocean like something from Middle Earth or Skyrim. It’s clear to see why there are so many Sea Eagles around here; it’s the perfect territory and I was thrilled to see them doing so well.

We quickly gained a reputation on the boat for being the “crazy girls” – initially this was because when they stopped the boat for us to go for a swim everyone else hesitated because it was a bit chilly (yes we are apparently now cold when it's 23*C outside – coming back to the UK is going to be one hell of a shock). Of course living by our cliché 'you only live once' moto we quickly stripped off into our bikinis. Noticing that our new Aussie friends were stood at the edge but still hesitating (poor show boys 😜) I immediately vaulted over the railing and jumped off the top of the boat first! We then further surprised everyone by climbing out after swimming for a few minutes so we could jump off the top again!

We also visited the local fishing villages, which are literally floating houses with large 8 metre deep nets for breeding and raising fish.

We spent the rest of the day swimming with Sea Eagles & Ravens flying over us, and kayaking past one of the most endangered mammals in the world, the Cat Ba Langur! My wildlife watching skills kicked in when we heard the strange call echoing through the valley. I eventually managed to pinpoint the source and paddled over for a closer look. Spotting the movement in the trees I was describing to Rachel where to look and soon enough a large part of our group were floating in our kayaks watching these endearing creatures, unaware of how lucky we actually were to have seen them. In 2000, only 53 of these beautiful monkeys remained due to poaching and habitat loss. Their numbers have now slightly recovered but are still estimated to be between 75 and 100. Quite simply we feel like we’re truly winning at life ❤️

[akalittlemisscrazy]

Backpacking Escapes: Hanoi

Okay I take it back – Bangkok isn’t that crazy. At least not until you compare it to Hanoi. The traffic in this city is absolutely insane! There seem to be absolutely no rules here yet miraculously we haven’t seen anyone crash. You can go any way around the roundabout you feel like, and which side of the road you drive on seems to be interchangeable. Crossing the road involves stepping out looking as confident as possible whilst thinking “Don’t die don’t die don’t die” and weaving around the flurry of cars & bikes. Furthermore whilst the roadside cafes are super cute and brilliant to go to, the tables outside also block up the entire pavement meaning you constantly have to walk on the road. We had our sarongs tied tightly around our waists covering our bum bags as we had been warned multiple times about the motorcycle thefts here. Not the most relaxing time we’ve had during this trip.

Hoa Lo Prison was built by French Colonialists in 1896 after they chased out the residents of the old crafting village. It was built to hold thousands of revolutionary Vietnamese and soon became known as 'Hell on Earth'. I have to admit I didn’t know how much history and conflict there was between the French and the Vietnamese. It was distressing to learn how badly these prisoners were treated. The walls surrounding the prison are 4 metres high, 0.5 metres thick and topped with broken glass & high voltage electric grids. Prisoners were beaten, fed rotten scraps of food and had cold water thrown on them in the middle of winter. The Cachot cells where prisoners who’d been sentenced to death were held had slanting floors so that when the prisoner’s feet were shackled (which they were 24/7) their heads were lower than their feet – leading to blindness and oedema. Prisoners frequently died of typhoid, dysentery and malaria. It’s no surprise the prisoners fought back the best they could – making their own newspapers, organising schools within the prison and planning escapes to rejoin the fight on the outside.

In stark contrast to these atrocious cruel acts, between 1964 and 1973 the prison was used to hold American pilots who’d been shot down during the conflict. These prisoners were treated so well they nicknamed the prison 'Hanoi Hilton Hotel’. They were treated for their initial injuries and had regular health check ups. They were allowed to play sports, watch films and attend church at Christmas. One of the prisoners held here was John McCain. I have huge respect for the Vietnamese here, proving that you can break the cycle of violence and avoid spilling any more blood.

Train Street is literally what it sounds like – a train track running down the middle of a narrow backstreet. Every night from around 8pm the trains start running fairly regularly down here – leaving an incredibly narrow gap of about 30-50 centimetres between the wall and either side of the train. During the day this street is predominantly filled locals and backpackers with cameras as it is ridiculously picturesque. You’ll know when the train is coming as the locals will suddenly pick up their tables and move inside, well accustomed to this daily routine.

Ngoc Son Temple is one of the two island temples on Hoan Kiem Lake, the other being Turtle Tower. Unfortunately it was going under major renovations when we visited but the patio area behind the temple overlooking the lake was so peaceful and such a pretty sight. We sat here for quite some time enjoying the view.

We also visited St Joseph’s Cathedral and some of the other temples such as the Temple of Literature & West Lake Pagoda (Tran Quoc Pagoda). I’m afraid I don’t have much to say about these sights – they are absolutely lovely but unfortunately we’ve reached that stage of our trip where we’re comparing everything to all the other places we’ve been and these temples just didn’t quite blow me away. If you want stunning breath-taking temples, personally I’d recommend you go to Thailand or rural Vietnam.

Just a bit of warning the mausoleum where President Ho Chi Minh’s body is preserved and on display is closed from October onwards. We weren’t that bothered by this as frankly I find it a little bit disturbing and a tad disrespectful as he didn’t want to be laid to rest this way. Furthermore the Presidential Palace and the Citadel are closed on Mondays, which is when we were in the city. All well - you win some, you loose some.

The Ceramic Mosiac Mural is a 6.5km long tiled masterpiece. It reminded us of an Aztec style artwork and would have been a very pretty peaceful walk – had it not been for the 8 lanes of traffic behind us!

Whilst it was a good place to start our Vietnamese adventure, I must admit I was glad to run away to the countryside! Ha Long Bay, here we come.

[akalittlemisscrazy]

Backpacking Escapes: Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai. Our last stop in Thailand. This and Koh Phi Phi were by far my favourites. The whole city had a much more relaxed vibe than Bangkok so I actually enjoyed walking around. It was fairly low and flat, which again suits me better than the towers of the capital. As one of our longer visits, I’ve got so much to talk about here.

The Monk’s Trail is an ancient trail that was once part of the pilgrimage route to Doi Suthep Temple. The first half of this trail was fairly easy – the path was (mostly - we occasionally got distracted by waterfalls) easy to follow and not too steep. Wat Pha Lat sits in the middle of the mountainside and can only be reached by hiking the trail. This means it is more peaceful; no weaving through crowds and no annoying tour groups. This temple had a gorgeous serene spiritual feel. In addition to being beautiful and quiet, this site sits on top of a waterfall. The sound of running water always relaxes me and it would have been truly wonderful to sit and meditate here for an hour or two. 

Unfortunately we already had other plans. Time for the second half of the trail – which we had already been warned was more difficult. By “more difficult” they meant scrambling up almost vertical slippery slopes, over fallen trees and into the true depths of the jungle. We eventually made it, after trekking a non-existent path and accidentally coming in through the back entrance (and therefore accidentally avoiding the entrance fee….oops?). Doi Suthep, whilst pretty, was overrun with disrespectful tourists who unfortunately ruined it slightly for me. For those of you who don’t know – you shouldn’t turn your back on Buddha images, you shouldn’t show the soles of your feet to Buddha or to other people and you shouldn’t disturb people who have come to pray (you’d hope this is common sense but you wouldn’t believe the number of people taking selfies in front of people praying and shouting loudly). On a more positive note the view definitely made the hike worth while. It also surprised us how high we had climbed. Upon Googling when we got back to the hostel, we discovered we had essentially climbed as high as Snowdon in 35*C humid weather fully covered (as you dress for the trail as you would for a temple, with your knees and shoulders covered) in about 2-2.5 hours. Not bad if we do say so ourselves.

Elephant Nature Park was AMAAAAAZZZZZZINGGGGGGG. I’ve written a whole blog post purely on this so if you’re interested please scroll down to read it. In summary, this park is the tranquil sanctuary to over 30 rescued elephants where they are rehabilitated, healed and allowed to roam freely as close to wild elephants as possible. Minimal human interaction is used unless the elephants choose to approach you themselves. This magical place is well worth a visit and Chiang Mai is 100% the place to go if you want to interact with Asian Elephants relatively safely and eco-friendly. There are several charities all trying to stop elephant riding but from our research (which was extensive) ENP is the one where animal welfare is truly at the heart and soul of every single thing they do.

Zip lining through the jungle is another popular activity in Chiang Mai – this again took thorough research before we choose Jungle Flight for a combination of reasonable prices, good safety record and great TripAdvisor reviews. Again our research paid off. I’ve been zip lining before but this was somehow entirely different. The guides were friendly and hilarious, making the whole experience even more enjoyable whilst making sure everyone stayed safe. One of the highlights of our day was the 1000 metre zip line flying over the jungle canopy. This is longest zip wire in Thailand and I was doing my terrified excited high-pitched laugh (if you’re friends with me you know exactly which one I’m on about) all the way down. 

We chose the Ultimate package, meaning that we also got to go on the jungle rollercoaster. When we booked this we were expecting one of those old carts you sit in and go down a set of rails on the forest floor. The reality we were met with was a single rail suspended from wires twisting through the jungle branches and a set of handlebars with a wheel mechanism which sat on the rail. Now don’t panic parents – our harness safety lines were strapped onto the handle securely. However this didn’t mean you could relax. You still had to hang on for dear life as you were flung around corners so sharply you thought you might genuinely do a 360 around the pole. Before we got on, our guide asked did we want to go fast or slow. Thinking what the heck we’ll only do this once we chose the fast one. He repeatedly asked us if we were sure; we are only itty bitty girls after all. Feeling confident I hopped on first – not long after cue more of that screaming laughter. This was absolutely epic but dear god it was terrifying. A voice in my head kept screaming at me ‘why on earth did you pick the fast one?’ or something along the lines of 'AHHHHHH DODGE THE TREE!’. We then continued with a few more zip lines before we reached the final station – a roughly 100 metre drop straight down, putting all your trust in the guide holding the other end of your rope at the top. As I’m not the biggest fan of heights and after all our escapades up in the trees I was glad to reach the bottom in one piece. All in all I would definitely recommend this and I would gladly do it again – at least I know what to expect next time.

Temples wise we only visited the top 2 recommended Wats (Wat Chedi Luang and Wat Phra Singh) but there are 300 to choose from in Chiang Mai. Wat Chedi Luang was particularly interesting to visit as the site has the new modern temple as well as the ruins of the original temple behind it. An earthquake has destroyed the dome but a large portion of it is still standing and in fairly good condition. 

Overall Thailand was one of the most wonderful places I’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting. Despite the fact we only left 24 hours ago I can’t wait to go back. I found the Thai people very respectful and very welcoming. Their culture is fascinating and so appealing. The food was absolutely delicious of course – now getting to used to a knife & fork again instead of a spoon & fork may be interesting. And without question the countryside, beaches, cliffs & forests were out of this world. It was an amazing life changing experience that I can’t wait to build on. As cheesy as it sounds I feel I’ve grown as a person and have several new things to add to my bucket list for the next time I visit. See you again soon Thailand!

[akalittlemisscrazy]

Backpacking Escapes: Koh Phi Phi

I’m currently writing this whilst lying in a hammock looking out from the viewpoint at the crystal clear turquoise waters surrounding the lush green paradise that is Koh Phi Phi. Quite simply – I’m in heaven. Life really couldn’t get much better right now. From the second we stepped onto this island it’s been like walking into a postcard. Everywhere you look is ridiculously picturesque.

Our first day & night was spent on the Maya Sleepaboard boat tour which normally holds up to 25 people. Thanks to the low season and a seriously good stroke of luck, we ended up having the entire thing to ourselves!!! 

Now don’t get me wrong – I absolutely adore meeting other travellers. But having the boat to ourselves meant we had free use over all the equipment (snorkels, kayaks, etc.) and could spend as much time in each location as we desired. The tour started by taking us to Viking Cave, an old pirate cave which is now used to collect bird’s nests for bird nest soup. If you’ve not seen this before then YouTube it. The workers climb bamboo poles up to the nests. I don’t know whether they’re brave or just plain crazy. Next we kayaked in the bay off Phi Phi Leh and went snorkelling through a cloud of fish. 

After a few more kayaking stops, watching the sunset on the beach and food we rested for a while watching a distant lightning storm under the stars. As soon as the last rays of light had disappeared below the horizon we got back in the water with our snorkels to enjoy the spectacle that is the bioluminescent plankton. Whilst this doesn’t look like it does online it was still magical. We were confused and initially disappointed as we got into the water but couldn’t see anything. But the second the boat lights switched off we were in another world. Pale blue specks of lights surrounded us. The plankton react to when you move your arms and legs. Rachel described it as feeling like a Tinkerbell and I have to agree, whilst I’m not a girly girl there was definitely pixie dust everywhere. Reluctantly after half an hour of floating in this haven we climbed back out and of course how else to finish the night than with drinking on the beach and on the top deck. Whichever genius came up with serving drinks in a bucket – I love you. Not only do I have to refill less often, I also have a handle which is ideal for drinking while dancing! After teaching the Thais some new dance moves (they absolutely love that one with the imaginary rope lasso) we settled down on the top deck for a peaceful night sleeping under the stars. An early start and beautiful sunrise meant by the time we got to Monkey Beach around 8am we had the whole thing to ourselves. 

Don’t feel discouraged if you can’t find the monkeys at first – there are actually 3 beaches where you might find them. We found them at beach 3 along the cliffs. As long as you move slowly and stay quiet you can get ridiculously close to the monkeys and simply watch them enjoying their breakfast. We were floating in our kayaks about a metre away. And that’s the end of the tour. I’m not usually a fan of these tours as normally organising to see all the sights on your own is cheaper. However Maya Sleepaboard is 100% a bargain, tons of fun and I would highly recommend this trip to anyone. They are buying a new bigger boat later this year and I can’t wait to see it on my next visit!

Our second day was spent walking around the shops and enjoying the relaxed atmosphere of the island. We climbed up 186 metres to the viewpoint and we’re rewarded with this:

I don’t think I’ll ever tire of just looking at this island. It’s so clear why it was used for movie sets such as The Beach and James Bond films – no editing is needed when nature provides you with a place as beautiful as this. To celebrate our last night we headed to Ibiza House Pool Party by the beach to meet up with our guide from the Maya Sleepaboard tour.

I can’t wait to return and dive back into these idyllic waters. The only negative thing I have to say is it is such a shame the famous Maya Bay was closed for restoration and that other areas such as Monkey Beach are covered in litter. I’d strongly advise that everyone should travel more whenever they get the chance – but be responsible tourists guys. I know the shortage of bins in Koh Phi Phi is frustrating but don’t just throw your rubbish in the ocean. This is killing our wildlife and ruining the island for the rest of us. Koh Phi Phi are trying to clean up the area (you’ll pay a small tourist environmental fee when you arrive) but it’ll really help if we don’t add to the mess that’s already there!