First of all, let me state that Hanoi is by far the most delicious city I have ever visited. At least, if you don’t mind eating all of your food off the street…and I literally mean, OFF THE STREET:
This gentleman is a grillmaster of Hanoi!
As with everything else in Vietnam, they cook off the street just like the fix motorbikes. Sometimes in the same square meter of space!
But boy, is that cooking tasty. There are approximately a zillion people selling food this way - much in the form of soup or noodles, served in a bowl. Sometimes it’s random things cooked and dumped over rice. The broth tends to be exquisite. Even the worst dish I had still overflowed with enough flavor to make a french chef weep. I have a feeling it’s because it’s the same broth that’s been cooking since the war ended…so it’s got the kind of richness and depth of flavor that only a decade or two of simmering in the air, redolent of life, can bring it.
Remember the picture of the meat delivery in the last blog post? There seems to be a lot of that going around; I can’t tell you how many times I saw somebody delivering a huge chunk of pork, or beef, or chicken to a waiting cook. The women deliver meat, veggies, noodles, etc. Sometimes on foot, sometimes on motorbike. It’s then chopped and prepped from those same little stools on a cutting board resting on the sidewalk, or if it’s a higher-end place, on a small plastic table. One or two big pots are involved, either over a propane burner or often a type of cast charcoal burner.
Lots of cooking is done over charcoal, actually. As you walk around town, you can see lots of the clay charcoal burners discarded (and picked up for recycling) next to the little mini-BBQ stations that people are rustling up their tasty vittles.
Even though the places go from nothing more than a chair on the sidewalk all the way up to an actual “restaurant”, with a tiny prep kitchen to go along with a few tables wedged into a space scarcely a couple of meters across, they all have a pretty similar feel, and I would qualify all of the same as the same fabulous street food that Hanoi has become noted for.
So - how do you order? Well, you sidle up, find a seat (or indicate your interest in the general area, at which point somebody will identify themselves as the proprietor and find a spot to plop you down, usually knee-to-knee with everyone else already chowing their meal). There might be a written menu - in vietnamese - but what I have been doing is just pointing to something that somebody else is eating, and they bring me that. English tends to be limited to prices and a common courtesy. You must know how to say “bia hoi”, which is the name for the local light brew that’s served with pretty much anything (say beer hoy with a bad fake British accent, and you’ll be about right).
People on top of the stool, cats underneath, please.
A BRIEF DISCUSSION ABOUT SANITATION. Actually, let’s not and just say that most of these places are not going to pass any sort of health inspection. EVER. Between the lack of refrigeration, the cooking directly on the ground, the non-potable water, the questionable mixing of utensils, etc., I would recommend accepting it as it is and noticing that it doesn’t seem to be killing any of the people eating it. It has not killed me yet, either…I haven’t even been inconvenienced, shall we say, even after eight square meals directly from the street.
Do not ever complain about the lack of space in your kitchen triangle again.
So, what have I had so far?
- Many, many bowls of phở, which is what I consider the national dish of Vietnam - thinly sliced beef, chicken, or other mystery meat, in a fantastic broth, with rice noodles
- A variation on that theme, for breakfast, but lacking the broth
- Several random meats and tofu, served over rice with green veggies
- An amazing grilled seafood dinner, consisting of geoduck, sea snails, clam congee, and the largest two shrimp I’ve ever seen (although to be fair, this was the most expensive meal I has in Vietnam, almost $20)
- Squid…just, squid. More Chinese, I would say, but tasty none-the-less
The price…ah, that, my friend, is the best part. You can eat a proper vietnamese meal for $2 without even trying hard. Add on a cà phê sữa đá to start your day off for $1, a beer or three for $0.75 a pop, and you are well on your way to three square meals for $10/day, with room left over for your $2 pack of Marlboroughs.
Phở on the way home from beer corner, my last night in Hanoi
I would be remiss if I did not talk about the coffee in more detail. I am enchanted with Vietnamese coffee. It’s a little odd to think that a coffee snob like me would be so silly as to enjoy a fine, dark, coffee mixed with condensed milk from a can (of all things)…but damn, you take that and pour it over ice, and you have the most perfect drink in creation. Women are set up everywhere, with their pail of ice, a thermos or bottle of coffee, and a can of milk to whip that up for you. I also learned that when you run out of coffee, they will bring over a bottle of tea, which you pour over the ice and then drink to mop up the last of the flavor. Yummy.
DISTRESSING SIDE NOTE - I saw a bike with a cage of cats on the back. This caused me to raise an eyebrow. I later found out that cats are a delicacy on the menu here. Along with their canine brethren. Caveat emptor.