What cookbooks to buy for Christmas.
Over the years, I started asking myself how many dishes do I see myself cooking when I hold a cookbook in a book store and if I can’t answer more than three I put the book on the shelf. By doing that I’d managed to curb my cookbook purchasing enthusiasm.
Last week I’d surprised myself by buying two books in a row.
The second one I pre-ordered without demo-ing (and it would later prove to be a bad move.)
Since Christmas is around the corner I thought I’d write a post to prove this blog useful by recommending a couple for your food-loving friends:
The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science
J. Kenji Lopez is influencing modern cafe food just like how Yotam Ottolenghi did 5 years ago. Don’t believe me? Go to any new cafes and I bet you will find a ‘smashed burger’ on their menu. If not a special waffle or a fried chicken dish. He is the mythbusters of cooking, experimenting with different recipes and showing his results on his personal website - seriouseats.com
Here’s a guy who does all the research on thermometers, kettles, the best way to cook eggs, a fool-proof salad vinaigrette, all with tight experiments and plain explanations to back up his conclusions. If he’s your friend, you will take advantage of him yet feel sorry for his lack of life at the same time.
(Don’t worry he has a wife and probably is rolling in Google ad money.)
Thing is, he is an average Joe version of Heston Blumenthal and should be getting his own tv show by now. But I’m guessing he is too hands on, too ‘rogue’ for mainstream media. (Recently he started gopro-ing his cooking process.)
His book is a really good time stamp of his philosophy. It is HUGE, probably the second biggest cook book I have and it reads like a textbook. He goes through the basics of cooking, and the tools, and ALL his approaches in a very down-to-earth tone. He questions, challenges and debunks a lot of conventional way of cooking and I have to say it works for me because I am anti-loving, anti-Nigella, and anti-intuition when it comes to cooking.
The good (and bad) thing about the book is that it only cover the basic like eggs, meat, pasta, salad etc which is too American for me. At times I also feel ‘tired’ of all the science behind cooking. Like, dude, just relax and burn your eggs once in a while. Take it easy.
Buy this book for your anal retentive cook friends.
So I’m not sure if you know that Chinese food can be categorised into eight regions - Anhui, Cantonese, Fujian, Hunan, Jiangsu, Shandong, Sichuan and Zhejiang.
So context: The McSweeneys published this book, written by a non-Chinese (Carolyn Philips, has a blog titled Madame Huang’s Kitchen, married into a Chinese family), attempting to explain all eight regional food, covering over 300 recipes.
This is the book I ordered without previewing at the local Readings.
And of course, when I opened the book I would be greeted with no pictures; just illustrations. That is so McSweeneys I’m not even mad. Can you imagine photographing 300 Chinese dishes?
I scratched my head a bit with this book as I’m not sure who is the target market. It is too intimidating to serves as an introduction to Chinese food for beginners (read the last paragraph: no photo), yet as a Chinese, I roll my eyes a bit with recipes like green onion pancakes and zhajiangmian.
I guess it’s hard to explain, but imagine an Asian writing a book about the history of pies in the UK. As a Brit you’d probably appreciate someone going through all that trouble, taking interest in your historical culture yet at the same time amused to see ‘ fish and chips ‘ in a serif font, like a bible.
Flipping through the book, I got hit by a huge wave of nostalgia. Carolyn, bless her soul, must have gone through so much trouble categorising each dish to match the region / country with the proper analogy. It is like my memory of Chinese food, materialised into an index.
I haven’t tried the recipes yet but you know, Chinese food is always Shaoxing wine, black vinegar and soy. Truth is I don’t trust any Chinese recipe because my uncle’s neighbour’s auntie will always have a better recipe. The best recipe online will always be the blog still using geocities.com
My point is, buy this book for your friends who are trying to feel smarter than they are (or marry into a Chinese family), which I guess is the core audience of the McSweeneys publications.
Treat this book like a story book before cooking is a good start.
Bonus: NIgel Slater
If all this technical drilling and no-picture Chinese history nonsense make you feel claustrophobic, just grab anything by NIgel Slater. He looks out of his window, reaches into his drawer, grab some ingredients, writes a haiku with his fountain pen, and voila, a baked dish inspired by his memories from autumn leaves with a beautiful photograph.
If all else still fails, buy the new Anthony Bourdain one.