Hi Anea! I was searching for "antique" chinese fabrics on the web and found there were many cheap brocade/embordered fabric on TaoBao that is similar to the fabric in the mandarin coat. Would it be a good idea to remake the mandarin coat using the fabrics? (0 experience first timer)
I mean, why not? I think the main thing about the costume is that it needs texture, surface, embroidery, fringes, details. And using brocades and embroidered fabrics will add to that. But I would make sure the base is made of solid fabrics. Chinese brocades are good in this aspect. Fragile, flimsy materials can be saved for the decorations, where they are put on another surface.
Apart from rich Chinese brocades and embroideries, you can also cut out motifs from suitable fabrics and apply them on to your robe / tabard. Add trims around it, maybe some sequins, and it's a super effective and sometimes money-saving feature.
The costume itself consists of four main features:
The main robe, straight, with long wide cuffs and a standing collar. This is often made of Chinese brocades, with some additional details on the cuffs and maybe collar.
The tabard, the sleeveless overgarment reminding of a long, loose waistcoat. This one can be straight or pointed, it may or may not have a collar, it can be open + tied at the sides, or sewn together, and the back is usually richly ornamented. Many versions also do a fringe or tassel trim at the hem. Sometimes the main robe and tabard is merged into one, or at least it's hard to tell where one ends and the other starts.
The cloud collar, a pointed, rounded and decorated collar. This is not done in all versions, as for example the US costumes only tend to indicate it with trims.
The round, pointed hat (which I won't really address here).
When they built a new costume for Ben Lewis in West End the base of the robe, tabard and collar was various Chinese brocades, but then slowly adding texture to the collar and the back of the tabard, using trims, embroidery, fringes, appliquees etc. The main robe itself doesn't need much decorations apart from the pattern and colours of the fabric. With the exception of the cuffs, of course. They are usually made of different rows of fabrics and trims.
Here's the Ben Lewis costume in making:
I didn't think that costume turned out super textured on stage. I would have liked to see a dash more surface to the collar. But I do like the various blue shades, especially that reminding of peacock blue. Here it is worn by David Thaxton some time later:
A new costume they made for Scott Davies and Tim Howar around the same time also had a base of chinese brocades, and with various structured trims, appliquees, embroideries etc. Again I don't think the collar is the most textured one in West End, but it is still cool to see it in process from costume workshop to stage.
The one they made for Marcus Lovett was more textured. Especially with that embroidered dragon back, but also the ornamentation of the collar. Here it is in making:
And as it appeared on stage, here worn by Ben Lewis:
I would also say the same logic can be applied to other versions of the costume around the world: Chinese brocades as a base, and various embroideries, trims, tassels and appliquees adding structure and bling to make it rich-looking.
Here's the Danish one, as worn by Tomas Ambt Kofod and John Martin Bengtsson. I love the bold blue nerve in the collar, cuffs and lining. It's also not super visible, but there is a lot of antique embroideries in the back and inner collar.
Many versions follow this composition, though with different colours, fabrics and details. Some will have a separate cloud collar, while others indicate a collar by the use of trims. The US is a good example. They do various trims around the neck and tabard, or the trims illuded a cloud collar that is an integrated part of the tabard. Here's Laird Mackintosh on Broadway:
And the back of what I think is the same costume, as worn by Hugh Panaro on Broadway:
The cloud collar shape is even less present - or rather, not at all - in the 1990s versions of the costume. Here's Michael Lackey and John Cudia in US Tour runs. Even if we're not talking the same costume, they are both made of a black and gold Chinese brocade for the main robe, and blue Chinese brocade with large, round ornaments for the tabard. The standing collar is accentuated by trims.
Same goes for the Australian and early World Tour ones. They did the main robe and tabard, but rarely the cloud collar. They did however do amazing vintage gold embroideries and silk-painted details. Here's one worn by Jonathan Roxmouth in his South African run. I love the wing pattern coming to view in the collar and back:
Same also goes for the Japanese ones. They do a main robe with a tabard on top, and the tabard has trims and details denoting a collar rather than a separate cloud collar. They have used many types of fabrics and colours throughout the years, but this recent purple one will forever remain a favourite. The first photo is Yuta Iwaki in Tokyo. I wanna say the second photo shows Osamu Takai, but don't quote me on that...
A final version I will post is this elder German one. Again, the cloud collar shape is only indicated by trims. But they have also added frog fatening in front, which I think is a nice detail. Depicted is Thomas Schulze in Hamburg:
I hope this at least gave you some inspirations on materials used, possible shapes, colours etc. :)
Side by side comparison of the old and new countess/rooftop dress
1 and 3 is from ceris Donovan’s twitter week
2 is from Akgcostume on Instagram (picture taken by Emma Louise/Christine dresser)
