Great crested grebes carry their chicks on their backs to keep them safe from cold water and predators. The chicks stay warm and safe, tucked under the parent’s wings. This keeps them protected until they can swim well on their own.
seen from United States

seen from United States

seen from Austria
seen from China
seen from United States
seen from China
seen from China

seen from China

seen from United States

seen from United States
seen from United States

seen from Russia
seen from Australia
seen from United States

seen from Singapore

seen from Singapore
seen from Sweden

seen from Malaysia

seen from Italy

seen from Singapore
Great crested grebes carry their chicks on their backs to keep them safe from cold water and predators. The chicks stay warm and safe, tucked under the parent’s wings. This keeps them protected until they can swim well on their own.
Pasty Butt Problems: Welcome to Pasty Butt Jail
If you raise chicks, you know pasty butt can sneak up at the worst times. One of our newest additions was struggling with it, so it was time for a trip to pasty butt jail. For those unfamiliar, pasty butt happens when droppings stick to a chick’s vent, blocking them from going to the bathroom. It’s uncomfortable for the chick and can be dangerous if not addressed quickly. Our solution is…
E + chick care powder is a fortified nutrition with balanced electrolytes for dehydration and transportation stress control along with amino acids(methionine & threonine) for growth stimulation and to boost immunity. It also contains Vit. C to reduce stress and energy source to promote early life growth of chicks.
Baby Chick Care 101
Baby Chick Care 101
Baby Chick Care 101 What do you need BEFORE you bring your chicks home?Heat source– Whether that’s a heat lamp, pad or plate. I personally prefer the heat plates. I have one large one that I used for my first chicks it is VERY long. I let it follow them to their out side coop for cool nights. In my opinion the smaller plates are better for control of size and room for your chicks to grow…
View On WordPress
Early 3Cs | Saifevetmed
Early 3Cs fulfills the need for water and electrolyte during chick transportation, thus preventing dehydration in the birds especially during summer. Early 3Cs also provide essential vitamins. For more information please visit https://bit.ly/2L7K262
here’s a chick medical issue i often come across: curled toes.
this chick was one of two who hatched with this issue. in where the toes dont stretch and straighten out after hatching, rather they stay in their curled state and the chick ends up walking on the side/top of its ankle rather than the correct position. (i forgot to snap a “before” photo, sorry. google it if your curious)
i’ve read that this is caused by a vitamin issue, and i dont doubt it. but in my experience, this happens to chicks that hatch days later then they were due. sometimes in one foot, sometimes in both, like this lil guy. but as you can see i’ve corrected one foot already and im working on the other with the use of masking tape.
chicks do not hold still, but with some care the tape can be secured in place to hold the toes in the correct position until they strengthen enough to be walking around like the happy lil chicks they should be.
gently spread out the toes and stick them in place on the tape, not including the small back toe. you want the ankle to be able to bend. then fold the tape over the other side of the foot so the top and bottom of the toes are held by the tape. then, VERY CAREFULLY, trim the tape so it resembles a duck’s foot. i’ve found if you hold the chick in front of a light so you can see through the tape it makes trimming easier. too much tape and the chick will constantly trip and not be able to walk, trim the tape further if need be. the chick should be able to walk around with little difficultly. it may take the chick several minutes to figure out how to walk with this new “bootie” on its foot.
i leave the bootie on for approx 6hrs at a time before carefully peeling it off. if the tape doesnt easily come off, a bit of baby oil helps. observe the chick walking for a while to see if the foot has been corrected. 90% of the time it has, if not make another bootie and try for another 6hrs. so far i’ve always been able to fix them. sometimes a toe or two may be a little bent still, but that will correct itself in time as long as the chick is walking on the pad of its foot like it should be.
if the chick has curled toes in both feet, only do one foot at a time. doing both at the same time will leave the chick unable to stand and it will develop splayed legs, which is a whole new problem thats harder to fix and can lead to even more problems that usually results in having to cull the chick.
alternatively, you can massage the toes every hour for five minutes. i’ve found that also works but it can take days to fix that way.
Hi- I'm planning on getting chickens next year some tim- possibly silkies. Only thing is- I'm hoping to get young birds, possibly chicks, so that they'll bond better to me. I've only looked after my uncle's chickens briefly and own other birds, but have never outright owned any chickens. I've planned out their coop and run, do you have any advice or tips for me? particularly towards the young birds part, because I'm not sure what I'm doing.
Oh, jeez. Where to start?
- Make sure their heat lamp is not too close or far away, take note of whether they’re clustering directly under it (meaning they could probably use it a bit closer) or are moving as far away from it as possible (back it off a bit).
- Have a shallow water dish, especially for tiny chicks, to prevent hydro-tragedies. I usually had one of these slightly elevated a bit up off the ground.
- Handling, all the handling you can muster (with ample time for them to sleep and do chick things, of course). For them you’ll be a space heater, a perch, a safe place in a sometimes scary world (my birds will still sometimes dive under me if they see something frightening while we’re hanging out outside). You’ll also be pooped on a lot when they’re younger. Have cleaning materials at the ready.
- Your coop/run — predator proof the shit out of it; do not underestimate a hungry animal. Look into where other people have succeeded and failed. I cannot stress this enough.
- They’ll be ready to live out in their coop once they’re fully feathered, so around 5 weeks old or so?
- Make sure they have plenty of space in proportion to their numbers. Overcrowding can lead to picking, which most often ends very badly.
And here’s a great page on caring for younger birds.
Anyone else have some tips?