#christopher wilton steer

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1. Ceiling details from the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, Samarkand

2. Ceiling details from the Shah-i-Zinda tomb complex, Samarkand

By Christopher Wilton-Steer, from ‘Ceilings of Uzbekistan’ (source)

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Ceiling details at the Tash Hauli Palace, Khiva Christopher Wilton-Steer

More stunning photos at Ceilings of Uzbekistan

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In a remote valley of Naryn province in eastern Kyrgyzstan, not far from the border with China, you can find the remains of a 15th century caravanserai called Tash Rabat.

Caravanserai were where travellers and traders would rest, recuperate, wash, pray, tend to their horses and camels, share news and gossip before continuing along the old Silk Road; the network of trading routes that connected China to the Roman Empire from the 2nd century BC to around the 1500s.

What makes this caravanserai unique is how isolated it is. Usually, caravanserai were built at 30km intervals - a day’s journey - but Tash Rabat is in the middle of nowhere. The nearest town, Naryn, is 115km away; a 2.5 hour drive. Perhaps there were other caravanserai on the way that have since disappeared.

For travellers from China, Tash Rabat would have provided an opportunity to rest after crossing the treacherous Torugart Pass before taking on the next leg of the journey through the Tian Shan Mountains.

Christopher Wilton-Steer, ‘The Lonely Caravanserai at Tash Rabat’ (source)

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Looking out on the Taklamakan desert, the view for 18 hours.

On the train from Kashgar to Urumqi by Christopher Wilton-Steer, from ‘Kashgar, ancient Silk Road trading hub’ (source)

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The Turabek-Khanum Mausoleum from a distance.

Konye-Urgench, Turkmenistan, by Christopher Wilton-Steer (source)

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Salamat (pictured here), who employs eight female workers, makes souvenirs for tourists in Murghab, Tajikistan.

 Photographed by Christopher Wilton-Steer for AKDN (source)