work in-progress on a lacey semicircular shawl. knitting with a long change gradient yarn. gonna knit till i run out of yarn, hopefully the piece looks decent!
more wip previously progress and yarn shots. shop is the blue brick here in canada, colorway is based on last year’s eclipse.
my skein definitely has less blue in it, it’s much more grey. and i went with the non-sparkly option.
Although I begin with the photo of a fascinating cardigan by Virginia Woods Bellamy, its pattern is not in this issue. Sigh. But we do have her Butterfly Wrap, a simpler example of what she called “number knitting,” her use of simple geometric shapes, here triangles, in order to create garments and accessories. Unlike some of the unfortunate shapeless “modular” knitting and crochet patterns of the 1970s and 1980s, her work made a point of fitting to the body which makes sense as she patented her technique in the 1940s and wrote her book in 1952. The fitted silhouette marked both eras when it came to knitted garments. The article by Ann W. Braaten and Susan Strawn explains both her life and her technique and I am hoping they manage to publish patterns for more of her work.
The shawls in the next image are from Estonian patterns and an article by Nancy Bush which is followed by the pattern direction for a pelerine or circular shawl using these traditional techniques. Then you see the knitted tam designed by Laura Ricketts and inspired by Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris, and finally Deanna Hall West’s sample of the Rhodes stitch for cross-stitch which has an appealingly, puffy appearance as you can see. There are more articles on other needlework traditions, including embroidery, plus a pattern for a Shetland shawl from Carolyn Wynborny.
You can find it in local bookstores and on newsstands and online here: https://pieceworkmagazine.com/subscription/
Might as well try again. I keep meaning to make a circular shawl, then I get sidetracked.
Screenshot from Antique Crochet Patterns. The entire original pattern book is posted here by Antique Pattern Library.
Commencing at the center of the circular shawl, make 8 ch., join the 1st to the last with 1 s.c. to form a ring.
1st Round – Make 3 ch. (this standing throughout the recipe for the first tr. stitch), then work 1 tr. and 1 ch. thirteen times, finishing this (and each succeeding) round with 1 s.c. in the top of the 3 ch., continue without turning.
2nd Round – Miss the space from which the 3 ch. is made and work 1 tr., 1 ch., and 1 tr. and 1 ch. between each tr. of the previous round, finishing with 1 tr. and 1 ch. into the same space as the 3 ch., making 28 tr. altogether.
3rd Round – * 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr. and 1 ch. in the 1st space (after the 3 ch.), 1 tr. and 1 ch. in the next space, repeat from * all around.
4th Round – Work a loop tr. into the 1st space (after the 3 ch.) as follows: *wool over the hook and draw a loop through the space, wool over the hook and draw a second loop through the same space, wool over the hook and draw a loop through all the stitches on the hook, 1 ch., repeat from * once more into the same space; 1 tr. and 1 ch. in each of the next 2 spaces, repeat from the first * of this round until the end of the round is reached (there should then be 14 groups of loop trebles, with the 2 tr. and 1 ch. between each).
Continue repeating this round, always working the groups of loop tr. into those of the previous round and working 1 tr. and 1 ch. into each space between the groups; there will be an extra 1 tr. and 1 ch. between each space in every additional round.
Border for this Circular Shawl
When there are 22 tr. between each looped tr. rib, commence the border as follows:
1st Round – Work the 2 loop tr. as before (using the light steel grey, or natural, if a shaded border be required), * miss a space, 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr. and 1 ch. in the next, miss a space, 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr. and 1 ch. in the next, miss a space, 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr. and 1 ch in the next, miss a space, 2 loop tr. in the next repeat from * to the end of the round.
2nd Round – Work the 2 loop tr. as before (using the darker grey or natural in the case of a shaded border), * miss a space, 1 tr. and 1 ch. in each of the next 2 spaces, 4 tr. with the 1 ch. after each in the next space, 1 tr. and 1 ch. in each of the next 2 spaces, miss a space, 2 loop tr. in the next, repeat from * to the end of the round.
3rd Round – Work the 2 loop tr. as before (using the lighter wool for a shaded border), * miss 2 spaces, 1 tr. and 1 ch. in each of the next 2 spaces, 4 tr. with 1 ch. after each in the next space, 1 tr. and 1 ch. in each of the next 2 spaces, miss 2 spaces, 2 loop tr. in the next, repeat from * to the end of the round.
4th Round – The same as the 3rd round, but working 6tr instead of 4, with the 1 ch. after each, in the centre space (and, for a shaded border, using the darker wool).
5th Round – Work the 2 loop tr. as before (using the lighter wool for a shaded border), * miss 2 spaces, 1 tr. and 1 ch. in each of the next 3 spaces, 4 tr. (with the 1 ch. after each) in the next, 1 tr. and 1 ch. in each of the next 3 spaces, miss 2 spaces, 2 loop tr. in the next, repeat from * to the end of the round.
6th Round – The same as the 5th round (but using the darker wool for a shaded border).
7th Round – Like the 5th round, using the white wool both for this and for the remainder of the shawl, whether the border be plain or shaded.
8th Round – Like the 4th round (except that the wool is white).
Repeat the 4th and 5th rounds until the circular shawl is the required size, then work the following edging:
Work the 2 loop tr. as before, miss 2 spaces, 1 tr. in the next * 7 ch., 1 d.c. in the first of these ch., 1 tr. in the next space, repeat from * until only 2 spaces are left before the loop tr. rib, then, repeating from the beginning of the round until the edging is complete, fasten off.
Notes: Tr. means modern double crochet. I would start round 1 with chain 4 instead of 3, so you can count the chain 4 as 1 dc and a chain space.
The Delineator, vol. 57, 1901. Ladies’ Umbrella Cape, page 988.
The umbrella shawl has been greatly admired and justly so, for it is certainly a thing of beauty. It is also utilitarian, being light in weight, at the same time warm enough for a shoulder protection on cool summer evenings. Any of the light shades may be selected, although white seems to be the popular favorite.
To make a shawl the size of the one here illustrated requires nine skeins of Shetland floss or split zephyr. Color can be used in the border, if desired. Use a large hook and work very loosely, as much of the beauty depends upon the fluffy effect thus gained. Make a chain of six stitches and join in a ring.
First Row – Work 12 d. c. in this ring, and join, pulling the thread out loosely each time.
Second Row – Work 1 d. c. between 2 d. c. of previous round, 2 d. c. in next space, 1 in next, alternating each space until the round is complete. The double stitches thus worked make the seams or ribs.
Continue thus, putting 2 d. c. in each of these places, and 1 d. c. in each place between, working round and round until the body of the shawl is the required size. The one here shown is fourteen inches from the center. If the shawl is desired fuller work according to these directions: When about one half is made, put 2 d. c. in one hole halfway between the ribs, thus starting another gore and forming ripples in this part of the shawl.
For the Border – Ch. 10, and with s. c. catch it into every other one of the holes, regardless of the ribs.
Second Row – Into each ch. of 10 make a shell of 2 loose d. c., 2 ch, and 2 loose d. c. Make 4 rows like this all around the shawl. Then three rows with a shell made of 3 d. c., 2 ch., and 3 d. c. Then one row with shells made of 4 d. c., 2 ch., and 4 d. c. Then put a scallop of 10 d. c. in each shell. The border can be carried out as wide as desired; but this is a nice size if only a shoulder wrap is wanted.
This shawl or cape, as it is often called, is circular in shape and when adjusted on the figure falls gracefully from the shoulders, with the border of shells disposed in flutes or ripples all around. The upper section is often thrown over the head, when a hat is not worn.
[Sales pitch for The Art of Crocheting removed. I have changed “scollop” to “scallop” to modernize the spelling. Commas added in the border directions to indicate that the dc and chains are all worked in the same loop.]
MODERN DIRECTIONS. First thing - buy ALL the yarn. Buy more than you think you will need, then add another skein. This thing eats yarn like nobody’s business. Also keep in mind: To wear a circular shawl you fold it in half.
Chain 5 and join to form a ring. Round 1: Chain 4 (counts as dc, chain 1 throughout), * dc in ring, chain 1; repeat from * around until there are 12 dc and chain-1 spaces. Join to 3rd chain of beginning chain 4. Round 2: Slip stitch in first space, chain 4, dc in same space, * chain 1, dc in next space, chain 1, (dc, chain 1, dc) in next space; repeat from * around. Join to 3rd chain of beginning chain 4. Round 3: Slip stitch in first space, chain 4, dc in same space, * (chain 1, dc in next space) twice, chain 1, (dc, chain 1, dc) in next space; repeat from * around. Join to 3rd chain of beginning chain 4.
Repeat like this, working increases in the increases of the previous round. The photo shows the shawl folded in half and tacked to a vertical surface. The only way to make it flare upwards/outwards like that is to add additional sets of increases. I tried a second set like it says in the directions, and it still didn’t flare like that, so I just kept adding until it flared in a way similar to the photo. These directions begin with 6 increase points. I worked like that for 12″, then I added a second set. I worked 5 rounds, then I added a third set. I worked 4 more rounds, then I added a FOURTH set of increases. Remember: You need an even number of spaces between the increase points in order to start new increases. If I’m doing the math right, I had 24 increase points around the outer edge of this beast, and I worked going around and around for several feet. The original photo looks like it shows 21 dc between increase points. (Yes I enlarged the pic and counted.)
Border Round 1: Slip stitch in first space, chain 11, * skip 1 space, sc in next space, chain 10; repeat from * around. Join to 1st chain of beginning chain 11.
Border Round 2: Slip stitch in 3 chains, chain 3, (dc, chain 2, 2 dc) in same loop, * (2 dc, chain 2, 2 dc) in each loop around. Join to top of beginning chain 3.
Border Rounds 3 - 5: Slip stitch to chain-2 space, slip stitch in chain-2 space, chain 3, (dc, chain 2, 2 dc) in same space, * (2 dc, chain 2, 2 dc) in each chain-2 space around. Join to top of beginning chain 3.
Border Round 6: Slip stitch to chain-2 space, slip stitch in chain-2 space, chain 3, (2 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in same space, * (3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in each chain-2 space around. Join to top of beginning chain 3.
Border Rounds 7 and 8: Slip stitch to chain-2 space, slip stitch in chain-2 space, chain 3, (2 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in same space, * (3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in each chain-2 space around. Join to top of beginning chain 3.
Border Round 9: Slip stitch to chain-2 space, slip stitch in chain-2 space, chain 3, (3 dc, chain 2, 4 dc) in same space, * (4 dc, chain 2, 4 dc) in each chain-2 space around. Join to top of beginning chain 3.
The directions state that the border can be made to any size. After squinting and counting, the original looks like it has 9 rounds total for the border, counting the 10 dc cluster edging below. Not sure how to enlarge the border. I suppose you could always work 4 -5 rounds in each size of scallops.
Edging: Slip stitch to chain-2 space, slip stitch in chain-2 space, chain 3, 9 dc in same space, * 10 dc in each chain-2 space around. Join to top of beginning chain 3.
