#transcribed pattern

[victorian3]

Peterson’s Magazine, 1878 issue, page 983. “Knitted Cuff.” 

Original text: Cast on eighty stitches, and knit to and fro, as follows: Eighteen rows of which three times alternately three appear purled, three knitted. The foundation counts as the first row, so that it must be purled off in the second row. Then for the row of loops twenty-five new stitches must be cast on in the fourth row, and these must be knitted in the fifth and sixth rows, and cast off in the seventh, and at the end of the tenth and twelfth rows the last stitch must be knitted together with the marginal stitches of the loop part of the work; repeat ten times first to eighteenth rows, and in order to join the separate loops knit together the fifth to the eight stitches, which are cast on for the next loop, with the twenty-first to the eighteenth cast on for the previous loops, and also the last loop must be joined to the first. Then take up the foundation stitches on to a fresh needle, and knit them off together with those of the last row. The purled stitches of the loops form the right side of the work when it has been folded back en revers. A cuff like this is almost indispensable for winter. 

[victorian3]

“Horizontal Couch Afghan,” The Columbia Book of Yarns, 1915 edition pg. 112; 1916 edition pg. 114. The top image is a screenshot from the 1916 source. The bottom image is my trial piece to make sure the directions were right. Note the little vertical columns. They run horizontally in the original image. 

1915 text: With Brown No. 6 work a chain of 301 stitches, work 300 Sg. C. on chain.                 

Row 2 – Work 1 Sg. C. in each of the first 2 stitches, taking up the whole stitch of preceding row, * yarn over hook, insert hook in next stitch, draw up a loop, yarn over, draw up a loop in same stitch, yarn over, draw up a loop in same stitch, yarn over, draw through all 7 stitches on hook, skip 1 stitch, 1 Sg. C. in each of the next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end of row, chain 1, turn.

Row 3 – 1 Sg. C. in each stitch of preceding row, chain 1, turn.                 

Row 4 – Work 1 Sg. C. in each of the first 2 stitches, * yarn over hook, insert hook under puff of second row, draw up a loop, yarn over, draw up a loop in same stitch, yarn over, draw up a loop in same stitch, yarn over, draw through all 7 loops on hook, skip 1 stitch, 1 Sg. C. in each of the next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end of row, chain 1, turn.                 

Repeat rows 3 and 4 for all the work and these 2 rows will be spoken of as one row, colors to be used as follows: 

2 rows Brown No. 5

2 rows Brown No. 4

2 rows Brown No. 3

2 rows Brown No. 2

2 rows Brown No. 1

2 rows White Princess Wool

2 rows Salmon No. 0

2 rows White Princess Wool

2 rows Brown No. 1

2 rows Brown No. 2

2 rows Brown No. 3

2 rows Brown No. 4

2 rows Brown No. 5

2 rows Brown No. 6.                 

This completes one strip, work 4 strips.                 

Border – With Brown No. 3 work 1 row of Sg. C. all around, increasing at the corners.                 

Row 1 – With Brown No. 3 chain 1, yarn over hook, draw up a loop in first stitch, yarn over, draw through 2 loops, yarn over, skip 1 stitch, draw up a loop in next stitch, yarn over, draw through 2 loops, yarn over, draw through 3 loops, * chain 2, yarn over, draw up a loop in same stitch where last stitch was made, yarn over, draw through 2 loops, yarn over, skip 1 stitch, draw up a loop in next stitch, yarn over, draw through 2 loops, yarn over, draw through 3 loops, repeat from * all around, working 3 D. C. in each corner.                 

Row 2 – With Brown No. 4 work 1 D. C. in space, * chain 3, yarn over, draw up a loop around D. C. just made, yarn over, draw up a loop in same stitch, yarn over, draw up a loop in same stitch, yarn over, draw through all 7 loops on hook, chain 1, 1 D. C. in next space, repeat from * all around, working a cluster in center D. C. of the 3 D. C. in corner of preceding row.                 

Row 3 – With Brown No. 4 work same as row 1, working the stitches in the spaces formed by the 3 chain of preceding row.                 

Row 4 – With Brown No. 5, * 1 Sg. C. in space, chain 4, skip 1 stitch of chain just made, draw up a loop in each of the next 3 chain stitches, yarn over, draw through all 4 loops on hook, chain 1, 1 Sg. C. in next space, repeat from * all around. 

Modern Directions: Multiple of 4 + 3. Row 1: Skip first chain, sc in each chain across to end. Row 2: Chain 1, turn. 1 sc in next 2 sc, * yarn over hook, insert hook in next sc, draw up a loop, yarn over, draw up a loop in same sc, yarn over, draw up a loop in same sc, yarn over, draw through all 7 stitches on hook, chain 1, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc; repeat from * across. Row 3: Chain 1, turn. Sc in each sc and chain 1 across. Row 4: Chain 1, turn. 1 sc in next 2 sc, * yarn over hook, insert hook under/around previous row’s puff (make sure to pull the loops out long enough so that they’re even with the current row - this will make sense when you have work in progress), draw up a loop, yarn over, draw up a loop in same stitch, yarn over, draw up a loop in same stitch, yarn over, draw through all 7 loops on hook, chain 1, skip 2 sc of previous row, 1 sc in next 2 sc; repeat from * across. (Note: Please count carefully on this row. Otherwise the puffs start slanting to one side and you’re a stitch short at the end.) Repeat rows 3 and 4 for pattern. 

As always, I have not tested the border. 

[victorian3]

“Knitted Quilt with Border.” Source: Godey’s Lady’s Book, vol. 108 and 109, Jan. to Dec. 1884, page 771, 842, and 843.

Original text: Materials required: Three-thread knitting cotton No. 8, and two long knitting-pins No. 14. The design for the counterpane is shown in miniature in F, and the border in the full size in E. The border worked in wool will make a very nice carriage blanket; it can be worked in stripes, and the open edge added on the second side. For the square commence with one stitch. 1st Row: Make one, knit one. 2d Row: Make one, knit two. 3d Row: Make one, knit one, make one, knit one, make one, knit one. 4th Row: Make one, knit one, purl three, knit two. 5th Row: Make one, purl two, make one, knit three, make one, purl two. 6th Row: Make one, knit two, purl five, knit three. 7th Row: Make one, purl three, make one, knit one, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over the two knitted together, knit one, make one, purl three. Repeat the sixth and seventh rows alternately five times more, continuing to increase one stitch at the beginning of every row, which will make one stitch more to purl before and after the raised pattern in each row. 18th Row: Make one, knit eight, purl five, knit nine. 19th Row: Make one, purl nine, knit one, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over the two knitted together, knit one, purl nine. 20th Row: Make one, knit nine, purl three, knit ten. 21st Row: Make one, purl ten, knit three together, purl ten. 22d Row: Make one, purl to end of row. 23d Row: Make one, knit to end of row. 24th Row: Make one, purl to end of row. 25th and 26th Row: Make one, knit to end of row. 27th Row: Make one, purl to the end of the row. 28th Row: Make one, knit to the end of the row. 29th Row: Make one, purl to the end of the row. 30th Row: Like twenty-eighth row. 31st Row: Like twenty-ninth row. 32d Row: Make one, * purl one, slip one as if for purling, keeping the cotton in the front of the work. Repeat from * to the end of the row. 33d Row: Make one, purl to the end of the row. Repeat these two last rows five time more. 44th Row: Make one, knit to the end of the row. 45th and 46th Rows: Make one, purl to the end of the rows. 47th Row: Make one, knit to the end of the row. 48th Row: Make one, purl to the end of the row. 49th Row: Make one, purl to the end of the row. 50th Row: Make one, knit to the end of the row. 51st Row: Like forty-ninth row. 52d Row: Make one, purl two, * make one, knit one, make one, purl five, repeat from * eight times more, then purl to end of row. 53d Row: Make one, knit two, * purl three, knit five, repeat from * eight times more, knit three. 54th Row: Make one, purl three, * make one, knit three, make one, purl five, repeat from * eight times more, purl three. 55th Row: Make one, knit three, * purl five, knit five, repeat from * eight times more, knit four. 56th Row: Make one, purl four, * make one, knit one, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip stitch over the two knitted together, knit one, make one, purl five, repeat from * eight times more, purl four. 57th Row: Make one, knit four, * purl five, knit five, repeat from * eight times more, end with knit five. These two last rows are repeated alternately five times more; of course always increase by making one stitch at the beginning of every row. 68th Row: Make one, purl ten, * knit one, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip stitch over, knit one, purl five, repeat from * eight times more, purl to end of row. 69th Row: Make one, knit ten, * purl three, knit five, repeat from * eight times more, knit to end of row. 70th Row: Make one, purl eleven, * slip one, knit two together, pass the slip stitch over, purl five, repeat from * eight times more, purl to end of row. Now repeat from the twenty-second row to the seventieth row, being very careful to make the regular increase so as to have seventeen raised patterns at the repeat of the fifty-second row. In the sixty-first row you begin to decrease for the second half of the square by taking two together instead of making a stitch at the beginning of every row; with this one exception, the second half of the square is worked precisely the same as the first. The border is worked shortwise; the lace edging is worked separately, and is sewn to the border with a needle and cotton. For the border: Cast on thirty-two stitches. 1st Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, knit to the end of the row. 2d Row: Purl thirty, make one, knit two together, knit one. 3d Row: Like first row. 4th Row: Like second row. 5th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, purl four, * make one, knit one, make one, purl five, repeat from * three times more. 6th Row: Knit five, * purl three, knit five, repeat from * three times more, make one, knit two together, knit one. 7th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, purl four, * make one, knit three, make one, purl five, repeat from * three times more. 8th Row: Knit five, * purl five, knit five, repeat from * three times more, make one, knit two together, knit one. 9th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, purl four, * make one, knit one, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip stitch over the two knitted together, knit one, make one, purl five, repeat from * three times more. 10th Row: Knit five, * purl five, knit five, repeat from * three times more, make one, knit two together, knit one. Repeat the 9th and 10th rows five times more. 21st Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, purl four, * knit one, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over the two knitted together, knit one, purl five, repeat from * three times more. 22d Row: Knit five, * purl three, knit five, repeat from * three times more, make one, knit two together, knit one. 23d Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, purl four, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over the two knitted together, purl five, repeat from * three times more. 24th Row: Knit five, * purl one, knit five, repeat from * three times more, make one, knit two together, knit one. 25th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, knit to end of row. 26th Row: Purl thirty, make one, knit two together, knit one. 27th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together. Purl to end of row. 28th Row: Like twenty-sixth row. 29th Row: Like twenty-seventh row. 30th Row: Like twenty-sixth row. 31st Row: Like twenty-fifth row. 32d Row: Like twenty-sixth row. 33d Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, * purl one, slip one as if for purling, keeping the cotton at the front of the work. Repeat from * to the end of the row. 34th Row: Purl thirty, make one, knit two together, knit one. 35th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, * slip one as for purling, purl one, keep the cotton in front of the work. Repeat from * to the end of the row. 36th Row: Like thirty-fourth row. Repeat these four last rows twice more. 45th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, knit to the end of the row. 46th Row: Purl thirty, make one, knit two together, knit one. 47th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, purl twenty-nine. 48th Row: Knit thirty, make one, knit two together, knit one. 49th Row: Like forty-seventh row. 50th Row: Like forty-sixth row. 51st Row: Like forty-fifth row. 52d Row: Like forty-sixth row. Now repeat from fifth row for the required length. For the lace cast on seven stitches. 1st Row: Slip one, knit four, make one, knit two together. 2d Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, make one, knit two together, knit one. 3d Row: Slip one, knit one, knit one and purl one in the made stitches, knit two, make one, knit two together. 4th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, knit four. 5th Row: Slip one, knit five, make one, knit two together. 6th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, make one, knit one, make one, knit two together, knit one. 7th Row: Slip one, knit one, knit one and purl one in the made stitch, knit one, knit one and purl one in the made stitch, knit two, make one, knit two together. 8th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, knit seven. 9th Row: Slip one, knit eight, make one, knit two together. 10th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, make one, knit two together, make one, knit two together, make one, knit two together, knit one. 11th Row: Slip one, knit one, knit one and purl one in the made stitch, knit one, knit one and purl one in the made stitch, knit one, knit one and purl one in the made stitch, knit two, make one, knit two together. 12th Row: Knit two, make one, knit two together, knit ten. 13th Row; Cast off seven stitches, knit four, make one, knit two together.

[victorian3]

“Roman Stripe Afghan.” Source: Home Needlework Magazine, vol. 10 and 11, Jan. 1908 to Dec. 1909, page 641. Second image is a mock-up of the stripe pattern in Excel using black, white, sky blue, yellow, and pink. 

Original text: An afghan which make a good slumber robe for a couch is knitted in Roman stripe effect with black, white, blue, yellow, and pink Germantown, on No. 13 amber knitting needles. In the instructions a rib means over and back, or two rows. Cast on 100 stitches. 1st row – P. pl., turn. 2d row – K. 1, * pass wool over needle, k. 3, pass 1st st. over 2d and 3d st.; repeat from * to end of row; turn. 3d row – P. pl., turn. 4th row – * K. 3, pass the 1st st. over 2d and 3d, wool over the needle, and repeat from * to end of needle, ending with wool over needle, k. 1, turn. Repeat from 2d row to 5th row for the entire afghan. When color is to be changed, break off and tie on new color before knitting the row, purl plain. Colors to be used in the following order: 4 black ribs, 1 white rib, 1 blue rib, 1 pink rib, 1 blue rib, 1 yellow rib, 1 white rib, 6 black ribs, 1 white rib, 1 pink rib, 1 blue rib, 1 yellow rib, 1 white rib, 1 pink rib, 1 yellow rib, 5 white ribs, 1 blue rib, 1 white rib, 1 pink rib, 1 blue rib, 1 yellow rib, 1 pink rib, 1 white rib, 8 pink ribs, 1 white rib, 1 blue rib, 1 pink rib, 1 yellow rib, 1 pink rib, 1 white rib, 6 blue ribs, 1 white rib, 1 pink rib, 1 yellow rib, 1 blue rib, 1 pink rib, 1 white rib, 5 yellow ribs, 1 pink rib, 1 white rib, 1 yellow rib, 1 blue rib, 1 pink rib, 1 white rib, 6 black ribs, 1 white rib, 1 yellow rib, 1 blue rib, 1 pink rib, 1 blue rib, 1 white rib, 4 black ribs. A border of shells of 6 d.c. with black wool around entire afghan, or fringe 7 inches deep can be made at each end of black wool, and only the shells at the sides. Five skeins 8-fold Columbia Germantown, black, 3 skeins each white, blue, and pink, and 2 skeins of yellow were used in working. The border was crocheted with a No. 6 Crochet Hook.

Note: Home Needlework Magazine was very nice and included a stitch guide in most issues, and this one says that “d.c.” is what we call a single crochet today. Unfortunately, I have never been able to work a shell border using single crochet stitches. I think this is the time period when terms were standardized to what we use today. The main body of the afghan is knitted using a 4-row star stitch pattern, multiple of 3 + 1. Row 1: Purl across. Row 2:  Knit 1, * yarn over, knit 3, pass 1st knit stitch over 2nd and 3rd stitch; repeat from * across. Row 3: Purl across. Row 4:  * Knit 3, pass 1st knit stitch over 2nd and 3rd stitch, yarn over; repeat from * across, end with yarn over, knit 1. Repeat rows 1 - 4. A rib means 2 rows. You will have to follow the pattern and count the rows very carefully.

[victorian3]

Roman Stripe Afghans

Once in a while this term shows up when I read. I assume it means an afghan made with brightly-colored stripes. So far I have found a few complete patterns, and a few brief mentions. Black, white, pink, yellow, and blue stripes were extremely popular. 

Knitting and Crochet: An Illustrated Manual of Home Industry, 1880, page 15. Complete pattern. I have not seen directions for a Roman Afghan in the column, and send the following: The stripes are arranged thus: Black, Roman, black, Roman, and black – five in all. There are fifty stitches in each stripe, 275 ribs in length. Crochet stripes together with four stitches of black, four of white, and four of yellow. Germantown yarn. Needles about No. 8. Plain knitting. The Roman stripe is worked thus: One double row or rib of white, 1 of blue, 1 of pink, 1 of blue, 1 of yellow, 1 of pink, 1 of white, 12 blue. One rib of white, 1 of blue, 1 of pink, 1 of blue, 1 of yellow, 1 of pink, 1 of white, 12 black. One rib white, 1 pink, 1 blue, 1 yellow, 1 of white, 1 of pink, 1 of blue, 10 white. One rib blue, 1 white, 1 pink, 1 blue, 1 of yellow, 1 pink, 1 white, 16 pink. Repeat this to end of stripe. Mix the thread of the yellow with three of black in the fringe on the ends of the Afghan. The first stitch is knit by putting forward thread and taking it up as in seaming. Crochet on the edges, as between the stripes. This is a very handsome afghan. I find that the “Columbia” Germantown is the best.

New Outlook, vol. 28, July to Dec. 1883, page 520. Complete pattern. In answer to several requests we repeat the directions for making a knitted Roman afghan: Use nice Germantown wool, and medium or small sized bone needles. The stitch is plain “garter” stitch – that is, plain knitting back and forth. One across and back is called a purl. Cast on fifty-five stitches, and knit one purl white, one purl blue, one purl pink, one purl blue and yellow, one purl pink, one purl white, twelve purls blue, one purl white, one purl blue, one purl pink, one purl blue and yellow, one purl pink, one purl white, twelve purls black, one purl white, one purl pink, one purl blue and yellow, one purl white, one purl pink, one purl blue, ten purls white, one purl blue, one purl white, one purl pink, one purl blue and yellow, one purl pink, one purl white, sixteen purls pink. To knit the blue and yellow purl, join both colors on at once. Knit first a blue stitch, then yellow, then blue, and so continue across. Returning, begin with the blue, and then bring the blue thread forward and knit the yellow stitch, bringing then the yellow forward, and carrying the blue back to knit the next stitch. The threads are thus carried across on the wrong side. Four patterns, if the needles are not too coarse and the knitting not too loose, will be required to make the strip long enough, and the four black stripes, only forty-two inches wide, must, in length, exactly match the Roman stripes. When four black stripes and three Roman stripes are completed, join them by crocheting the two edges together with black, yellow, and white, two stitches of each. The colors are light pink, light blue, yellow, white, and black. The quantity of wool required varies so much with the good or poor weight of the skeins, the coarseness of the needles, and the looseness of the knitting, that it is difficult to assert how much to get. Two skeins yellow, fourteen skeins black, two of white, three of blue, and three and a half of pink, are probably what would be used. For the fringe, the worsted is cut into lengths varying from eight to twelve inches, according to the depth you desire your fringe to be: four strands of this length are doubled in the middle, drawn through the edge of the afghan, and the ends of the worsted drawn through the loops thus made; put these bunches in at intervals to make the fringe look well, and an additional ornament may be given to it by taking half of one bunch and half of the next to it and knotting them together, thus making a sort of network. On the Roman stripes put the colors pink, white, and blue alternately; where the stripes are joined together, black and yellow; and on the black stripes, according to taste, either plain black or three strands of black with one of yellow – that is, if the afghan be joined by black, yellow, and white.

The Art Interchange, vol. 14 - 17, Jan. 1885 to Dec. 1886, page 69. Mention. There seems to be nothing newer than Roman stripes in Germantown wool crochet. These may be alternated with stripes of a single, deep, full color. Deep old blues, old reds, golds, golden browns and olive are desirable colors. Garnet and olive are handsome for the alternating stripes. Open work stripes with ribbons run through would be tasteful and pretty alternating with solid stripes. Braided stitch stripes are also attractive.

The Art Interchange, vol. 14 - 17, Jan. 1885 to Dec. 1886, page 84. Mention. Roman stripes alternating with deep maroon and olive stripes will make a handsome carriage Afghan. The coloring of the Roman stripes should be quiet – say in old-blues, deep old-golds, olives, and maroons. Some directions will accompany samples if you so request. Knit or crochet in stripes, then crochet stripes together.

NEW!!! Dorcas Magazine, 1885, page 109. Mention. Fifteen rows of pink, one row white, one row yellow, one row dark blue, one row white, one row black, one row pink, one row black, one row light blue, one row white, one row yellow, nine rows light blue (reverse with green), one row white, one row yellow, one row dark blue, one row pink, one row green, one row yellow, one row light blue, one row dark blue, one row pink, one row white, seven rows pink, one row white, one row blue, one row white, seven rows pink, one row white, one row yellow, one row dark blue, one row light blue, one row white, one row green, one row pink, one row yellow, one row dark blue, one row light blue, seven rows of white. This makes one-half of stripe. Repeat backwards, beginning one row light blue, one row dark blue, one row yellow, etc. 

The Delineator, 1903. Mention (in a longer pattern). Separate post here.  

Three Hundred Things a Bright Girl Can Do, 1903. Complete pattern. Separate post here. 

Home Needlework Magazine, 1908 and 1909. Complete pattern. Separate post here. 

[victorian3]

Crocheted Crazy Afghan

Source: Godey’s Lady’s Book, vol. 108 and 109, Jan. to Dec. 1884, page 641.

Original text: Make one or two large balls by tying old pieces of all colors together in short lengths; the more variety and the brighter the shades, the better. The centre, or crazy stripe, should be fully a half-yard wide. Upon each side of it should be a still broader stripe of some very dark color in afghan stitch. Star or spider-stitch is the best for the variegated centre, and a deep fringe, introducing all the shades in it, should be tied into the bottom of the fancy stripe (the others are finished differently). Across the top of the same stripe may be worked, in shell crochet, an inch-wide border of the plain color. The plain stripes are left that much shorter than the other, but may be kept from curling by working, in color, a row of close crochet. The bottom of each plain stripe is bordered by working nine double crochets in 1 edge stitch, skipping 6 edge stitches and fastening down the last one of the 9 double crochet stitches to form one scallop. After working across once, add another row of scallops, made by putting 9 double crochets in the caught-down part of the first row of scallops; fasten the new scallop to the centre of the one below. Work a third row the same way. The fringe on centre stripe should fall at least four inches below the scallops on each side, and should be very heavy indeed. The stripes can be joined by sewing or crocheting them together.

Modern directions: Quick summary - afghan made of 3 strips. Center strip about half a yard (18″) wide worked in star stitch using variegated yarn or leftover scraps. I think the rainbow variegated yarn would work for this. The 2 solid strips on either side are wider than that and worked in Tunisian crochet “of some very dark color.” Let’s call it black to be simple. The star stitch strip has fringe made from those colors on its lower narrow edge. The rest of it is bordered with scallops worked in black.The fringe is at least 4″ past the edge of those scallops. Note how the directions mention using a plain border in “color” to keep the Tunisian crochet for curling. 

The original author wasn’t thoughtful enough to include directions for star stitch, but there’s a nice version here. The foundation chain is any odd number. Row 1: Beginning in 2nd chain, insert hook and pull up a loop until you have 6 on the hook, yarn over and pull through all loops, chain 1 for eye. Insert hook in eye, in last spoke of previous star, in same chain as last stitch of previous star, and next two chains for another 6 loops. Work stars like this across to the last chain, hdc in last chain. Row 2: Chain 2, turn. 2 hdc in the eye of each star across, hdc in top of last star. Row 3: Chain 3, turn. Beginning in 2nd chain, insert hook and pull up a loop until you have 6 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through all loops, chain 1 for eye. Insert hook in eye, in last spoke of previous star, in same hdc as last stitch of previous star, and next two hdc for another 6 loops. Work stars like this across to the last hdc, hdc. Repeat rows 2 and 3 for stars. If you’re working solid stripes, change colors after working row 2. On the star rows, work the first 10 or so stars tightly and the last 10 or so loosely. This will help control the edges.

[victorian3]

“Fichu for the Neck or Head (Crochet).” Source: Godey’s Lady’s Book, vol. 80 and 81, Jan. to Dec. 1870, page 80.

Original text: Materials. – Two colors are required, or one color and white, in Pyrenees wool, and half an ounce of each color in Andalusian; No. 12 crochet hook. IF worn on the head, it should be so folded that the fichu is 3 doubles in the centre, with a small point formed by the corner on each side; the other corners then hang down in the shape of lappets. It is placed on the head in the same manner as the little morning caps so much in vogue. It can be used square, as a neck handkerchief, and we recommend the stitch most strongly, working in eider yarn or Shetland wool for a shawl. The pattern is worked in gold and maroon; 2 skeins of gold, 1 of maroon. Make a chain of 12, unite (with gold), 7 chain or ch, 1 plain or double crochet dc in first of the 12 ch, 7 ch, 1 dc in the 3d of 12 ch, 7 ch, 1 dc in 4th of 12 ch, 7 ch, 1 dc in 6th of 12 ch, 7 ch, 1 dc in 7th of 12 ch, 7 ch, 1 dc in 9th of 12 ch, 7 ch, 1 dc in 10th of 12 ch, 7 ch, 1 dc in 12th of 12 ch. 2d round. Work 4 single crochet on the 1st 4 ch of the first loop of 7, then 7 ch, 1 dc in 4th ch of 2d lp of 7, 7 ch, 1 dc in 4th ch in next lp of 7, 7 ch, 1 dc in the same chain as the last dc (this is to form the increase for the corner), 7 ch, 1 dc in the 4th ch of 4th lp, 7 ch, 1 dc in 4th ch of 5th lp, 7 ch, 1 dc in same ch as the last dc, 7 ch 1 dc in 4th ch of 6th loop, 7 ch, 1 dc in 4th ch of 7th loop. Work another loop of 7 and dc in the same chain as last dc, 7 ch, 1 dc in 4th ch of 8th loop, 7 ch, 1 dc in the 4th single at the commencement of the round, 7 ch, 1 dc in same loop again. Continue the work in this manner, always increasing each round on the corner loops by making an extra loop. Work 15 more rounds in gold. 17th. Join the dark shade, and work 4 rounds. 21st. Join the gold; work 2 rounds. 23d. Join the dark shade, and work 4 rounds. 27th. Join the gold and work 2 rounds. Fasten off neatly. THE FRINGE. – Take 6 very long lengths of both shades of Andalusian wool, 5 or 6 yards each length. Fasten the ends together. Wind off on a ball one longer length of the dark color. Tie the 12 lengths together tightly with this ball, without cutting the wool on the ball every half inch. Leave the wool rather easy between each tie; then there will be no fear of cutting the wrong thread. When the whole length is tied cut across the 12 threads, exactly in the middle of the distance between each tie, leaving little fluffy knots on the thread that tied them together. To mount the fringe on the fichu tie the connecting thread with the same colored wool into the middle of a loop of 7. Miss 8 tufts of fringe, tie again just under the 9th tuft in the 4th loop of 7 from the last. Tie all round in this manner. A second row is put on in exactly the same manner, but must be tied to the 2d of the 3 loops left between the connecting links in the 1st row of fringe. The wool sewn over is cut between each tie.

ALL HAIL RAVELRY. Using this as a base to start with, I worked out these nice modern directions: Chain 5 with gold (IF YOU CAN FIND IT) and join to form a ring. This appears to be worked using very fine thread, so please use something like baby weight yarn. Maybe you can use embroidery floss. If you use standard worsted weight yarn with a size I hook (my default!), you will wind up with something much too open to be of any practical use. Round 1: Chain 8, sc in ring, (chain 7, sc in ring) until there are 7 loops total. Chain 7, join to 1st chain of beginning chain 8. (It will look somewhat like a flower with 8 petals at this point.) Round 2: 1 slip stitch in the next 4 chains, slip stitch in same loop, chain 8, sc in same loop, chain 7, sc in next loop, chain 7, sc in next loop, chain 7, sc in same loop, chain 7, sc in next loop – work like this around, alternating 2 plain loops and 1 increase loop. Join to 1st chain of beginning chain 8. By now you should see a clear pattern: Begin each round with 1 slip stitch in the first 4 chains. Slip stitch in that same loop and chain 8. Chain 7, (sc in same loop, chain 7) across to next corner loop. Only work (sc, chain 7, sc) in the corner/increase loops. You will need a safety pin to mark the beginning/end of rounds. There are 17 gold rounds for the center. Then 4 rounds in a contrasting color. Join gold and work 2 more rounds. Join contrasting color again and work 4 more. Join the gold and work 2 final rounds. 

I stand by my earlier statement that ball fringe is the devil. 

[victorian3]

“Triangular Handkerchief (Crochet).” Source: Godey’s Lady’s Book, vol. 92, Jan. to June 1876, page 369.

Original text: THE original is crocheted with white mohair wool (double strands), and with a coarse wooden needle, in scallops of chain stitch, bordered with rosettes. It is begun from the centre with 4 chain, closed into a circle with 1 slip stitch, and then crocheted very loosely in the round as follows: 1st round. 4 times alternately 3 chain, 1 double. 2d. 2 slip stitches, 3 chain to increase at the corner of the work, 1 double where the last stitch was work, 3 times alternately 3 chain, 1 double in the centre of the next 3 chain, 3 chain for the next corner, 1 double where the last was crocheted, 3 chain, 1 double in the 2d slip stitch. The next 50 rounds are crocheted like the preceding round. The increasings are carried out in the same directions as the first increasings, and 1 chain scallop is added between every increase in each successive round. The 52d round completes the ground of the work. The rosettes for the border are worked separately as follows: Take a piece of white Berlin wool, and wind it about 8 times around the forefinger of the left hand, then draw the wool from the finger, holding it carefully in place, and crochet over it with a four-fold strand of mohair wool 26 trebles and 1 slip stitch. 2d. With a two-fold thread to fasten the others, 13 times alternately 7 chain, 1 double in every other stitch. 3d. 4 slip stitches, 13 times alternately 7 chain, 1 double in the centre of the 7 chain. 4th. 4 slip stitch, 7 chain (for increase), 1 double where the last slip stitch was worked, then 3 chain scallops of 7 chain, 1 double in the centre of the 7 chain, 7 chain (for increase), 1 double where the last double was worked, then 10 scallops of 7 chain as before. The 32 rosettes of the border are worked in the same way, not including the four corner rosettes, which must be one round larger. These rosettes have the 3d round crocheted twice over, and in the 4th round 2 instead of 3 chain scallops are crocheted between the 2 increasings, and 11 instead of 10 chain scallops are crocheted. Of course, the rosettes are joined together where required. For the round which joins the rosettes to the groundwork, proceed as follows: * 1 double in the centre stitch of the scallop of chain before the increase at the corner of the groundwork, 7 chain, join the centre stitch to the centre stitch of the first increase in the rosette before a corner rosette and to the second increase of the corner rosette together, 1 double where the last was worked, twice alternately 3 chain, joining the centre stitch to the centre stitch of the chain scallop of the ordinary rosette, 1 double in the centre stitch of the next chain scallop of the groundwork, T 7 chain, join the centre stitch to the centre of the first increase of the rosette to which the work was last joined, and also to the second increase of the next rosette, 1 double in the same stitch in which the last was worked, 7 chain scallops of 3 chain and 1 double in the centre stitch of the next chain scallop of the groundwork, joining the 2d stitch of the 2d, 4th, and 6th of the 7 chain scallops to the centre stitch of the scallop of 3 chain of the rosette, fo the 2d increase of which you have already joined, repeat 6 times from T, and then 3 times from *. Then edge the work with two rounds as follows: 1st round. 1 double in the same stitch of the rosette in the hollow of a scallop which has been already joined to another rosette, 3 times alternately 7 chain, 1 double in the centre of the next 7 chain, 7 chain, 1 double in the 2d of the next 7 chain, 7 chain, 1 double in the 6th of the same 7 chain on which 2 double have already been crocheted, then 7 chain, repeat. Allowance must be made at the corners for the extra chain stitches which will be found there. 2d. 11 slip stitch, * 6 times alternately 7 chain, 1 double in the centre of the next 7 chain, then 7 chain and 1 double in the centre stitch of the next chain scallop of this rosette, and the centre stitch of the next chain scallop, but on the next rosette together repeat from *. At the corner rosettes, 1 more scallop of chain. When the work is completed, it is much improved by stretching it out, moistening it with water, and then letting it dry slowly.

ALL HAIL RAVELRY FOR GIVING US A BASE PATTERN. 

Chain 4 or 5 with white and join to form a ring. Round 1: Chain 4, * sc in ring, chain 3; repeat from * until there are 4 loops. Join to 1st chain of beginning chain 4. It should look somewhat like a square. Round 2: Slip stitch in first chain of first loop, slip stitch in same loop, chain 4, sc in same loop, * chain 3, (sc, chain 3, sc) in next loop; repeat from * around. There will be 8 loops total. Join to 1st chain of beginning chain 4. By now you should have something vaguely square-shaped that allows you to keep working. Round 3: Slip stitch in first chain of first loop, slip stitch in same loop, chain 4, sc in same loop, * chain 3, sc in next loop, chain 3, (sc, chain 3, sc) in next loop. By now you should be able to see how this works. To work every subsequent round, slip stitch in first chain of the first loop and into that loop, (chain 4, sc) in same loop. (Chain 3, sc in next loop) across to the next corner. Chain 3, (sc, chain 3, sc) into the corner loop to increase. Chain 3, (sc in next space, chain 3) across to next corner and keep working the same way. Join to 1st chain of beginning chain 4. You will need a safety pin to mark the beginning/end of rounds. The directions call for 52 rounds total for the headscarf itself - your exactly number of rounds may vary to get the size shown in the illustration. The rosettes are worked separately and then joined. 

I have done no testing on the rosettes and cannot comment on them right now.