Accras de Morue (Codfish Fritters)
Tonight, France is taking on Belgium in a neighbours, almost brothers’ game in the World Cup Semi-Final! Of course, I’ll be cheering on Les Bleus, even if the Diables Rouges have been very impressive, and I’ve supported them in every game they played so far. But how great it would be, to play (and win) a World Cup final again, twenty years after that epic victory (3-0) against Brazil! (The Belgians are the ones who ousted Brazil this year, though, so it won’t be easy; but it would be beautiful, it would make a great story: twenty years on, Didier Deschamps, who was in the victorious team, wins again, as France’s coach. (Now, I’m feeling for Thierry Henry, also a member of that magic “Black Blanc Beur” (”Black, White and Brown” celebrating French diversity) Squad, who is now assistant coach to the Belgians!)
Now, a semi-final is too exciting for a big meal, and finger food is a go-to. And these Accras de Morue, a staple in French Caribbean islands, is exciting food to match the intensity of the game. And also take me back to Guadeloupe, where I spent a wonderful fortnight last Summer, indulging in just-fried accras after a hike or a long swim in the turquoise Caribbean Sea. Angelo’s -who’s also a sweet man, and a cheerful soul- were our favourites, and I’d eat them watching rugby, then! Proper game day food, I tell ya!
Ingredients (makes about 40):
1 pound salted cod fillets
3 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
4 large eggs
2 cups buttermilk
2 scallions (white part only)
a small bunch of fresh chives
2 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
1 Scotch bonnet or habanero pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 quart vegetable oil
1 lime, to serve
The day before, place salted cod in a large bowl and cover with cold water. Drain, rinse and cover with cold water, every couple of hours, about four times.
The next day, bring water to the boil in a large saucepan.
In a large bowl, combine flour and baking powder. Give a good stir. Dig a well in the middle, and break in the eggs. Whisk, gradually adding buttermilk, until well-blended and smooth. Cover with cling film, and place batter in the refrigerator, to rest, 1 hour.
Once water is boiling, add de-salted codfish and boil, 5 minutes. Drain and let cool completely.
Finely chop scallions, chives and parsley and combine in a medium bowl.
Put on disposable latex gloves, and halve Scotch bonnet or habanero pepper. Seed it, and chop very finely. Add to the scallion and herb mixture, and flake in cooled codfish. Season with salt. Toss well to combine.
Remove batter from the refrigerator, and stir in codfish mixture. Stir with a wooden spoon until well-blended. Let stand at room temperature, about 20 minutes.
Heat vegetable oil in a large, deep skillet or pot over medium-high heat.
Once the oil is hot, using two tablespoons, gently drop dollops (heaped tablespoon) of the codfish batter into the hot oil. Fry accras, about 5 minutes on either side until golden brown and crispy. Transfer to a plate, ladden with paper towels to absorb excess oil. Repeat until there is no more batter.
Serve Accras de Morue immediately, very hot, with lime wedges and Ti’ Punch or Planters Punch. And enjoy the game!!
Caribbean Feast in Saint-Rose, Basse-Terre, Guadeloupe (August 28th, 2017)