Domaine Tarbouriech
Oyster heaven and a place of rejuvenation and relaxation in the south of France.
My trip to Montpellier included a stay at the stunning Domaine Tarbouriech out in the Marseillan countryside. I had a wander around the pool and the gardens shortly after I arrived where a variety of organic fruit, vegetables and herbs could be found growing for use in the restaurant. I was amazed to see ripe organic citrus fruits growing in December. Clearly a much more temperate climate there in the south of France. The gardener gave me a bunch of herbs to make a tisane, a little detox during my stay. The Domaine Tarbouriech is run by Julie and Flavien Malves, a young and welcoming couple who want guests to see the Domaine Tabouriech more as a family home than a hotel. Flavien gave me a tour of the four magnificent rooms of the converted former manor house where I got to admire the beautiful décor, each room having a unique theme. So much thought, love, care and indeed investment has gone into this place. I stayed in what was originally a barn, now home to eleven stylish rooms mixing stone, local woods (Douglas fir and chestnut), metals and concrete to great effect and a balcony view overlooking the nearby vineyards and the setting sun.
Above: December in the south of France!
Before my evening meal in the restaurant I took advantage of a massage and sauna in the spa. Everything here is seemingly about relaxation and rejuvenation with oysters being the underlying theme: From the hundreds of shells scattered within the gardens, the sculptures and art that decorate the place, the food and the spa. The Domaine Tarbouriech is designed to focus on well-being to such an extent that they’ve also developed their own range of organic cosmetics and food supplements utilising oysters – the “Ostreathérapie” concept as they call it. I got to meet the creative mastermind behind the whole Tarbouriech enterprise and concept – Florent Tarbouriech, a Frenchman with such vision, ethics and passion.
Nicolas Laseurre, head chef, cooked my evening meal - four courses of varied and beautiful flavours. I had high expectations having learned that Nicolas previously worked at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Saint-Germain for four years. I did expect oysters but what came from the kitchen as an appetiser was an oyster in disguise – a ‘vegetarian oyster’ of kiwi fruit with seaweed topped with a thin slice of aubergine to thus resemble an oyster served in a shell. The real oysters were to follow the following day. A starter of porcini soup was then served with a perfectly cooked poached egg garnished with crispy salsify. Delicious. Then came the main course; rump of veal for the with a rich jus served with stuffed cabbage (chou farci) with a delightful light creamy ham filling. The dessert was an elegant and palette cleansing anise granita with caramelised hazelnuts with custard and a light pastry base. No disappointments here, beautiful food.
Tarbouriech Oyster Farm
On the second day of my stay at the Domaine Tarbouriech I visited Le St Barth’, a shellfish-tasting venue located at the Tarbouriech oyster farm at the Étang de Thau lagoon where the Languedoc meets the Mediterranean.
The largest of the oysters I tried were four years old, they were the freshest I’ve ever eaten – directly at the source – served raw with just pepper, lemon, bread and butter and a fine glass of Languedoc Picpoul de Pinet which pairs beautifully with shellfish. I was also given a tour of the oyster farm by Romain Tarbouriech, the third generation, along with his sister, in the family business. Taken out into the lagoon on a barge I got a close-up look at the oyster-culture structures that are fitted with solar panels which power motors and a pulley system that lifts the oysters out of the water thus mimicking the tide – a patented farming process invented by Romain’s father Florent to facilitate the growth and quality of the oysters. I have to say they were as good as any I’ve tasted. Beautiful shells too.
Domaine Tarbouriech – all in all, a tremendous place to relax, rejuvenate and get away from it all. One day I shall return!