Budget Lolita is Reusing Patterns--Patterning Part 2
Part 1
The first thing that I do when I've decided on a pattern to sew is to duplicate the pattern. Why? I like working with sturdier paper, I like saving the tissue paper for later so I can remake this pattern in a different size, and personally I don't like having seam allowance included in my patterns. I like to use my patterns until they're destroyed and when that happens on a pattern duplicate I can just make a new copy. Sometimes you run across patterns where several different patterns are on the same paper, overlapping. In that case, you have to duplicate the pattern or lose the ability to use the other patterns. If you're modifying your pattern, you'll also need to duplicate it first.
Duplicating patterns is super easy.
Materials
Pattern ($6)
Roll of brown craft paper ($1)
Tools
Push pins ($1)
Pinnable surface (Free)
18"-24" ruler ($3)
Binder clips or clothespins ($1)
Coat hanger (free)
Pencil (free)
Optional tools
Hole punch ($1)
French curve or hip curve ($18)
Ponce wheel ($6+shipping)
A ponce (or pounce) wheel looks a lot like a tracing wheel, but more deadly. Instead of trying to apply pressure through the fabric, it is designed to make a row of holes in paper. If you think you could easily draw blood with it, it's a ponce wheel. If you're going to be doing a lot of patterning, this will make your life a lot easier.
French curves and hip curves are both curved rulers meant to help trace steady curves. If you start drafting or draping your own patterns from scratch, you're going to need one. Check places like Staples for when they go on sale.
The pattern I'm using is an Angelic Pretty pattern from the Gothic and Lolita Bible in 2006. It had seam allowance included and is only in one size, making it a good example.
(I should also point out that my understanding of this pattern comes from sewing experience and not in any way from an ability to read Japanese. I'm probably missing an important step from the pattern or something. My apologies.)
Start by laying out a big section of craft paper on your work surface. Tack it down so that it doesn't roll up. Then put the pattern piece you wish to duplicate on top of it. Do not cut the pattern out, just put it down. Pin it down at all of the corners, keeping it very flat.
In my case, since I'm removing the seam allowance from the pattern, I pinned my pattern piece down on the stitching line. If you're keeping the seam allowance, pin it down on the cutting line. Do not put pins anywhere but on the line.
I'm using straight pins here, but it's easier if you use thumbtacks.
Now take a thumbtack and start poking holes all the way along your line, all the way around the pattern. When you're done, pick up the pattern and you'll have a line of holes exactly where your line should be. If you have a ponce wheel, you'll be laughing at how fast this is going for you.
Now trace around the lines using your ruler and either using a french curve for the curves or just eyeballing it.
Then copy the markings from the pattern. I do this by measuring the original pattern and duplicating, instead of by tracing. I find it more accurate, less confusing, and faster.
Label your pattern piece. Once they're all cut out, it's hard to tell what's what.
I do this
What the pattern is for ("AP blouse GLB 2006")
What the specific piece is ("CF" for center front)
Instructions ("Cut 2." Other frequent instructions are "cut 1 on fold" or "cut 2 +2 interfacing)
Make up a notation system that makes sense to you, so you remember things.
Repeat the punching, tracing, and labeling process for all of your pieces. When you're done, cut them out unless you're modifying the pattern.
When you've cut out everything, it'll probably look like a bunch of pieces of paper curled up into tubes.
Take your hole punch and punch a hole in each piece. Then slide the pieces onto the hook of a coat hanger. Weight the opposite end of each piece down with a clothespin or binder clip and hang it up somewhere for a few days.
Couple of days and they'll all be straightened out. Congrats. You've just duplicated your first pattern!
