Dec 19, 2022
I’ve added traction to the ramps but they still need guardrails and the connection method has to change bc apparently Harold can and will disconnect them. For now I’m using rubber bands to hold them in place.
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I’ve added traction to the ramps but they still need guardrails and the connection method has to change bc apparently Harold can and will disconnect them. For now I’m using rubber bands to hold them in place.
What's your opinion on a tub with a UTH attached to a thermostat for a snake like a ball python? Since they aren't really basking snakes and are hidey-hole kind of snakes
I think it’s a fine way to keep a ball python, and so do other folks, such as @wheremyscalesslither (link goes to WMS’s setup howto post).
A well-set up tub is much better than a glass tank, by far.
The same money that you’d spend just buying the glass tank will buy you a much larger tub, and all the other things that you’ll need to set it up: thermostat, heat mat, decor, water dish, hides, substrate.
On that note, buy a large tub. As large as you can fit in your home. They’re so cheap at a home improvement store, and your snake will thank you.
Buy a tall tub, and put in some dowels that span the width, on different heights. Ball pythons climb, and do it well. Climbing will help keep your snake in good body condition. If there’s one thing I regret about my snake setups is how little headroom I afforded my BPs in their AP cages.
The Container Store has two right now that you can get for under 50 bucks.
https://www.containerstore.com/s/sterilite-tree-storage-box/d?productId=11009874
This one will allow for several climbing perches. I bathed Sunny in one of this size, so you can look through his tag and see how big it is.
And here’s the other, legendary tree storage box, not as tall, but quite a bit longer. I kept Sunny in one like this while a new cage was being manufactured and shipped, the linked video also shows the use of lashing straps. (This was an emergency adoption and I did the best I could at the time. I ordered a new cage for him right away -- rather a new cage for Rocky, and Sunny got moved into Rocky’s 8-footer).
https://www.containerstore.com/s/storage/iris-44-gal.-storage-tote-with-wheels/1d?productId=11005991
You can order online for pickup in-store, and I think that is free. They also ship for free if you order over some amount, and you may need more stuff from that store.
BOTH these boxes I own, and BOTH needed straps around them to keep the lids on securely. The longer one, three. The shorter one, two. I personally own a shit-ton of these, from my other hobby, but these here seem to be good too. Just go to a home improvement store and ask for “lashing straps” -- select some that are long enough to go around the bin, and buy several. AND USE THEM always.
Good luck!
WIP of this tortoise enclosure I’m building out of a 55 Gal HDX Storage Tote. I still need to glue strips to the ramps to make them easier to climb and add some sort of railing. I’m going to give him dirt to dig in at the bottom but I haven’t decided wether I’ll add substrate to the upper platforms.
IRIS Holiday Tree Storage Tote (53"L x 21"W x 14"H)
Harold’s new custom made enclosure!!! (2.5′ x 10′)
Simon's current heating arrangement consists of a heating pad under his tank and a regular basking light and infrared basking light set to alternate every 12 hours to simulate a day-night cycle. The heat source at night is necessary to keep the temperature in his enclosure high enough, but I worry that the infrared bulb still produces too much light to properly simulate night time. I've put some cardboard underneath it on the mesh of his tank lid which dims it significantly but may make his tank slightly cooler at night. Does anyone have any suggestions for alternative bulbs to use as heat source at night that won't emit a lot of light or decrease the humidity too much?
Quick Update: Simon came out of shed but the pinkness I noticed on his belly which I initially thought was a precursor to shed has remained and based on the research I've done seems to be a minor burn from prolonged exposure to his UTH without a protective layer of bedding. I've unplugged the UTH until I can get a better configuration put in place and removed all the old bedding and replaced it with paper towels for now to make it easier to ensure he stays clean in order to avoid infection. I added some insulation around his tank so that the CHE can keep him warm enough on its own until I finish sorting this out.
The visible irritation doesn't appear to be getting worse and his behavior and temperament are both normal.
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