I don't like mushrooms. They're sometimes styrafoamy when raw, slimy when cooked, or chewy like clams (without the satisfaction of clam chowder), and generally weird tasting. Not quite meat, not quite vegetable, and definitely not pretty. So I often tell people that I'll eat mushrooms... if I can't tell that they're there. On the other hand, earthy, savory, umami-like flavors are some of the best flavors I can imagine in food, drink, and combinations of the two. So where does that leave me?
Enter mushroom risotto. Specifically, my own home-made mushroom risotto, where I have complete control of the flavors, textures, and accompaniments surrounding these questionable fungi. Through the polite sampling of a Northern Italian acquaintance's mushroom risotto, I learned that there are many things to love about this dish, if they're done the way I like them.
1) Use dried mushrooms to up the earthy/meaty flavor. One of the reasons stovetop beef ramen noodle soup tastes so good is the powdered dried mushrooms in the seasoning packet. Dried porcini mushrooms smell a lot like beef ramen seasoning.
2) Don't use regular, flavorless button mushrooms. Portabellas and shitake mushrooms (for example) have meatier flavors and make it worth the weird texture that is bound to happen when you cook them.
3) Use chicken stock, not veggie stock, and make the risotto al dente. Overcooked risotto is just as slimy as overcooked mushrooms.
4) Add more earthy flavors: minced rosemary and earthy red wine (such as 2009 Field 3 from Botham Vineyards). Toss in toward the end of cooking so the flavors are still fresh. Drink the rest of the wine with dinner.
5) Finish with truffle oil. White truffle oil makes everything sexier. Trust me.
And so once a year, I buy mushrooms on purpose to cook up one of the most comforting and grounding dishes I can make. And I always have at least one guest - I love this dish, but seriously, I'm not getting seconds of anything with mushrooms in it.
