#fillament

[epellucid]

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[t13shoots]

[network-switch]

I made a man! His name is Leonard and he is very interested in CPU architecture and the art of Tomislav Jagnic! (See below for the original file link. I did not make this model. All credit to 8ran, they have a ton of great articulated designs. Click on the words “original file link” if you want the file for the slug specifically.) Print specifications - Sliced using Cura 4.9.0

Resolution: 0.1mm (or 1.0mm, I forget which but just go with whatever the software defaults to and then half that)

Infill: 100% (100 is highly recommended, but not needed. Minimum 20% infill. 100% infill lends a much more realistic weight, but takes about 50% longer to print.)

Support Structures: Yes Adhesion: Yes

Print Filament: Red PLA 1.75mm (LINK HERE) ((I know its amazon, but it’s the least sketchy site I could find for it))

Nozzle Temp: 210c

Bed Temp: 60c

Bed treatment: Kapton Tape (1.6mm high. Not important but added for the sake of completion) PLUS Generic Elmers glue (WATER DISSOLVABLE, VERY IMPORTANT. 1-2 coats, coats meaning average application of glue across the surface of the bed to be printed on. If you’re applying super thick coats in hopes that your print will work and it isn’t, I recommend re-zeroing your bed and washing off the glue coating. If that doesn’t work, increase your nozzle temp from whatever your default is up to 230c, in 5c increments. IE: Nozzle temp = 195c-200c-205c-210c-215c-etc. Make sure you have a good and fresh coating of elmers stick glue (1-2 coats) bed temp at 60c-70c each time you ramp up the nozzle temp, nozzle temp starting at 195 and ramping up to 230 until it works) Re-zeroing your bed: 1 - If your printer has a calibration function just hit that and follow the on screen instructions. (It should have a calibration function unless its home-built or extra, extra bootleg) ((It might not be called “calibration”, just look up “[INSERT NAME OF PRINTER HERE] calibration and/or zeroing guide” and it should get you close enough that you can follow from there)) 2 - If you have a home-built or you can’t find calibration steps in your manual, the same principles apply, except you won’t have a (likely) shitty manual/software to help guide you. No harm done! Steps below still apply, you’ll just have to be a little more careful to not crack the bed (if you have a glass bed) by putting too much pressure on it.

 3 - If your machine does have a calibration function, just grab a regular sheet of A14 paper. (If you’re not sure what kind of paper that is, it’s the normal kind of paper. Same kind that you got in middle school. Printer paper.) Activate the calibration function and it should pull up a menu with at least 5 numbers on it, if not more. Keep clicking, tapping, etc on each number until the printer head (where the plastic comes out) moves. Try to keep the paper under the print head. Wait 10-or-so seconds to make sure it (the print head) is not getting ready to go anywhere else, then stick the paper under it. If you cant fit the paper under it, hit the “Home” button (or whatever your equivalent is) and then put the paper where the print head used to be. Press whatever you pressed previously to send the print head to where it used to be and ensure the paper will be between the print head and the bed. 4 - Once the print head is under the paper, start trying to move the paper. If the paper won’t move, then your bed is too high. If you can move it with no resistance, then your bed is too low. (Most printers have some kind of screw and/or knob under the bed to change the height. They are almost always the ones with springs in between the bed and the screw head. Don’t try to mess with any screws that don’t have springs on them, they are likely there to hold the bed to the heating element or otherwise preform some function other than adjusting the bed. Either way, they won’t help level the bed.) 5 - Adjust the screws at each calibration position until it feels like the paper is contacting the print head but not being restricted by it. It should feel like you’re taking a form from a coworker that has a loose grip on on the form but is too stoned to realize he hasn’t let go of it. Once all positions feel like that, just make sure that you have the correct print head temperature set. (AKA nozzle temp, printer manufactures differ on what they refer to it as) NOTE: Printing temperatures differ by filament type. Please check the spec sheet that comes with most filament rolls. I will post a sheet applicable to most filament types and manufacturers when I update this next, but I wanna talk to my bf rn. NOTE TO SELF: POSTING THIS BC ITS THE MOST EFFECTIVE METHOD OF SAVING THIS POST. I NEED TO COMPLETE THIS POST LATER. NOTE TO ALL OTHERS: THIS POST IS INCOMPLETE. IF YOU ENCOUNTER DIFFICULTIES WITH YOUR PRINTER AFTER FOLLOWING MY STEPS AS OUTLINED SO FAR, FEEL FREE TO MESSAGE ME. I CAN’T PROMISE TO BE OF ANY REAL ASSISTANCE BUT BOY OH MAN YOU SURE WILL GET “ASSISTANCE”. And by assistance I mean I will create a headache for tech support. Not intentionally though. Printer: Sovol SV02

[3dwithus]

PLA - 3D Printing Material - Tips & Tricks: 

http://3dwithus.com/pla

Tower of Pi by Roman Hegglin.

[epellucid]

via

[3dwithus]

Conjure Filament Review: Testing Silk, Matte, Rainbow PLA, Other

Review by Phil Macey 3DPUK TECH Featured designs: Triple G Workshop, Kijaidesign, Stlflix

[cgclarkphoto]

Light bulb -  cg photography

[thornleymarshalldesigns]

Has anyone bought from these @gst3d_uk and are they reliable. Need honest answers please. #3D #3DPrinting #3DPrinter #Fillament #3DPrintingFillament #3DPrintingFillaments #ThornleyMarshallDesigns @thornleymarshalldesigns #Designer #3DDesigner https://www.instagram.com/p/CZRxU2StFui/?utm_medium=tumblr