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The details are in your pocket. How do you prefer the jacket pocket style in your suits – flapped, jetted or patched?

Photo courtesy: tailormadelondon.com

We have discussed 25 Suit Rules All Men Need To Know, now let’s take a look at jacket pocket styles for men’s suits.

You may ask … Why is the pocket styling important?

I’ll tell you why …

As a menswear stylist, I’ve seen a lot of tailors break several menswear rules when it comes to making bespoke suits. For instance, I’ve seen a casual double breasted suit made with a jetted pocket style. I’ve also seen tailors make a formal suit with a patch pocket without considering the nature of the occasion.

One thing I’ve learned after making a lot of suits for several clients is that the pocket style, lapel style, the jacket vent style, all of them matter as much as the choice of suit the client wants. While it’s always important for you to ask your client the question – “Do you have a preference on the pocket style?”, you also need to understand the different pocket style and how best they can be applied.

So today, I am sharing with you the basic jacket pocket styles all men need to know. This article is for my clients, fellow menswear stylists, fashion designers, tailors, image consultants and all dapper gents out there. Let this guide you as you plan to buy or make your next jacket or suit.

PATCH POCKETS

This is the most casual pocket style option. As the name implies, the pockets are made up of a separate piece of cloth sewn onto the outside of the jacket. It is generally considered as a sporty type of pocket and can come with or without a flap. It is mostly seen on informal suit jacket styles like sports jackets, linen suits, summer suits, casual blazers etc. TIP: Do not ever use this type of pocket style for formal suits.

FLAP POCKETS

This is the most common jacket pocket style for men’s suit jackets. They can be used in almost all types of suit jackets. As you can see in the picture above, this pocket style has a flap that covers the access to the pocket. The flap fabric is sewn in along the seam of the jetting in a way so it can be tucked into the pocket or tucked out.

The original idea behind the Flap Pocket was to protect the contents of the pockets from rain and is meant to be tucked in by default to form a jetted/besom pocket. However, these days the flap is usually always left outside except when wearing formal suits.

JETTED or BESOM POCKETS

This is the most formal type of pocket style for men’s suit jackets and contribute to a very sleek and polished appearance. As you can see from the picture above, the jetted pocket has no flap and is almost invisible.

They are usually found on classic Tuxedos and other formal suits used for weddings, races and other social events. Tuxedo jackets sometimes come in flap pockets which should be tucked into the pocket to retain a complete formal look (see pix below).

TIP: If you find a tuxedo which has a flap pocket and a notch lapel style, please don’t buy it. If your stylist insists on making this for you, fire him and hire US :)

ALSO READ: THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A BLAZER, SUIT JACKET & SPORTS COAT

OTHER JACKET POCKET STYLES

TICKET POCKET

As you can see from the picture above, the ticket pocket is narrow and is located just above the right regular pocket and roughly half as wide.

This pocket style was introduced for conveniently storing train tickets around 1860s. These days ticket pockets are usually incorporated in office suits, three piece suits and other informal suit types. For a vintage look, use this pocket style on a classic three piece suit.

The ticket pocket should NOT be incorporated in a black tie or the tuxedo jacket.

HACKING POCKET

There are straight pockets (the normal horizontal ones) and there are hacking pockets (the slanting or diagonal ones). Of course, we don’t have a vertical pocket style for suits (offset besom) – maybe I’ll invent it someday as a jacket pocket style but for now let’s stick to the current jacket pocket styles.

Hacking pockets and English tailoring have a rich history together as their primary purpose on suits was to make the pockets easier to open on horseback while riding. So a flap pocket style, jetted/besom pocket style or a ticket pocket style can be sewn as a hacking pocket.

Tip: As a fashion designer, use this hacking pocket style to make the wearer appear a bit taller or slimmer. For instance when your choice of pocket style is a flap pocket, consider the wearer – if he is on the large size, then use this style to make him appear slimmer and taller.

FINAL THOUGHTS/QUIZ

There you have it. I hope you’ve learnt a lot by reading this today.

As a menswear stylist, let’s say you were discussing with your client – Mr. X who wants a 2 piece single breasted suit for his wedding as against a Tuxedo Jacket with black pants which you initially suggested.

You would agree with me that making a single breasted two-piece suit with notch lapel and patch pocket is not an option – that’s a lethal combination considering the occasion – his wedding (which is considered a formal event).

Rather, as an expert in menswear, you should consider using a peak lapel style with a jetted pocket for him to have that sleek, polished appearance in his two-piece wedding suit.

Hope you agree with me? Alright let’s now test your understanding of this topic, I’ve got a little quiz for you.

If you choose not to use a jetted pocket style for the client Mr. X above, what other appropriate pocket style can you use and why?

Let me have your answer in the comment section below.

PS. We can help you design and make your suit with any pocket style depending on your personal style, preferences or the occasion you need the suit for. Let’s talk more, please check out our menswear services and CONTACT US today. You can also find us on TWITTER, INSTAGRAM, GOOGLE+, PINTEREST and FACEBOOK. Do follow us on any of the channels you frequently use as we continuously inspire you on how to dress well, do well and live well.

Till you hear from me again, Stay Classy!

Yours in Style,

Kobi O. Mbagwu (Mr. Kobi) Founder, MrKoachman.com Connect with me

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Featured Image: naturalgentleman.com

GUIDE TO JACKET POCKET STYLE: FLAP, JETTED OR PATCH The details are in your pocket. How do you prefer the jacket pocket style in your suits – flapped, jetted or patched?

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Free Fake Flap Pocket pattern and Tutorial

Here is a Free pattern with the step by step photo instruction for a fake flap pocket. It has a flap but it does not cover the pocket opening, so I called it “fake”. It is much easier to sew than real flap pocket and adds better look than simple patch pocket.

It’s a perfect easy-to-sew option for chest pockets of the Tosti utility jacket sewing pattern.

Of course, you can use this pattern for any other suitable shirt or jacket/coat patterns. Download the Free Fake Flap Pocket Sewing Pattern here!

how to sew Fake Flap Pocket

< Cut fabric / Interfacing >

1. Cut the parts and mark the markings following the pattern indication. Be careful the photo shows only left side parts, please double them for L/R sides pockets. Press interfacing on the Flap and the pocket opening on the Pocket pieces. The pocket opening place is just under the notch as shown in the pic.

< Connect flap and lining >

1. Place the Flap and the Pocket Lining pieces right sides together. Sew the seamline. 2. Press the seam down.

< Connect pocket and lining >

1. Before connecting these pieces, fold and crease a side edge of the pocket as shown. The folded part will be the gap for turing.

2. Place the Pocket and the Pocket lining pieces right sides together. Sew the outline leaving a gap measuring about 6cm (≈2.5") wide for an opening. *On the upper side of the notches(flap part), put the edge of the flap 1~2mm (1/32”~1/16”) inside like the pic. On the under of the notches, put the edge of the pocket 1~2mm (1/32”~1/16”) inside. Cut the edge.

Turn it right side out through the opening. *On the upper side of the notches, put the seam line 1~2mm (1/32”~1/16”) inside on the Flap to let the inner does not show from the right side. On the under of the notches, put the lining seam line 1~2mm (1/32”~1/16”) inside.

< Shape pocket >

1. Fold and press the Flap on the line between notches. Topstitch the edge of the Flap.

2. Place the pocket on the pocket placement of the bodice. Topstitch the edge. *For the sample in the photo, I use a square fabric piece instead of the bodice for the explanation.

3. Fold and shape the flap. Make short top stitches on both sides of the flap from the rightside.

***** Voila! ******

*********************

Hope the instruction is clear. If you have any questions about the pattern and instruction, please contact me. If you share your photos of your creation from my patterns on your blog or other media, please share with Waffle Pattern’s address and don’t forget the tag #wafflepatterns on the SNSs!

The Utility Jacket Tosti sewing pattern is available here. Also in Etsy shop.