#framing artwork

[framouspicture]

Keep Save The Style Of Your Framing Artwork - Expert Picture Framing

Framing Artwork does much more than enhancing the visual aspect of the artwork or providing an appropriate framework. Framing Artwork may have a significant impact on the viewer's perception. It might allude to the piece of art's inherent value.

[createdbyleahgay]

What is float framing?

I often recommend to people that they float frame the paintings I create as it maximizes the effects of my artwork with the natural ragged edges of the paper, but what does float framing mean?

Showing the edges of the artwork

Float framing is placing the artwork on top of the mount board and allowing the entire piece to be put on display.

Ragged Edges & All

By placing the artwork on display in its entirety it means showing the ragged edges of the watercolour paper. Because I use water colour paper that is specifically designed to be this way I think it enhances the artwork. It blurs the line between the piece being a painting and a textile and allows the natural shadows and lines of the paper to be as much a part of the artwork as the paint and threads.

Its a particularly attractive method of framing artwork created on paper or fabric.

No Hiding

When its all on show there is no hiding bits that haven’t quite worked, and it does mean that the artwork may not be completely square or flat. This adds to the charm and in its self the authenticity of the artwork as a original painting that has been created on paper.

How Do I Get A Painting Float Mounted?

Your local framing shop will offer the service of float mounting for you. It does sometimes cost a little more than standard framing because of the work involved but I think its worth it for the final outcome.

Until Next Time,

Leah

[lynchburgartclub]

Myrick Framing to Speak About Matting and Framing Artwork April 9, 7:00pm at the Lynchburg Art Club Patty Myrick and her husband, owners of Myrick Framing in Appomattox will talk about how to best show your work with mattes and frames.

[dannylennoxbronson]

Tips on preparing your artwork for display

Decisions about mat and frame style and color are really a matter of personal taste, but here are some tips to consider when planning to display your work. And these are all suggestions based on mistakes I have personally made when framing my photographs.

1. Standardize your print, mat and frame style and size. In the long run it will save you money. No matter how established you are, you will likely have pieces in your show that do not sell. If you have standardized your print sizes, matting and framing, you can re-use the mats and frames for new work. [note: it will be easier to remove artwork from its frame if you do not permanently seal the back of the picture. If the picture finds a buyer then the back can be sealed prior to delivery.] 

2. Use archival acid free "heavy" mat boards. 6-ply and even 8-ply mats will give your work a richer feel and the heavy museum boards will offer more protection for your prints. Make mats that open like a book with linen hinging tape and do not seal the mat window shut. 

3. Cut the window openings 1" (aprox. 25 centimeters) larger than the dimensions of your print. It is easy to center them when mounting and the larger window will create a double mat effect.

4. Attach hanging eyelets on left and right sides with a picture wire. (not sawtooth style hangers.) Sawtooth hangers are weak and will not support larger, heavier artwork. They also show above the profile of many frame mouldings distracting attention from the work. 

5. For wood frames always drill the small holes for the hanging eyelets about 1/3 of the way down from the top of the frame. If you don't use a drill you risk cracking the wood and that could result in a picture falling off the wall when the hanger fails. 

Properly displayed artwork will increase the likelihood of it finding a buyer. It is a reflection on the professionalism and integrity of the artist. 

[karadin]

Framing your collectibles - what to remember on a budget

most of the cost of framing is in the frame itself. This is due to the material (usually wood) and the different types of wood, types of detail or finish. Each frame shop orders frame moulding by the 12ft length, each stick of moulding has to be made to match the others so a completed frame looks consistent, hence the cost. Think of framing like furniture for your walls, you pay more for quality materials, but framing will last you decades longer than a couch.

Often galleries/frame shops have a good quality line of frames that they purchase in bulk, so they can lower the price. They might also have frames they make in standard sizes out of leftover stock, which reduces the price. You could always get a wider, more detailed frame for your work at a later date when you have more funds, but the important thing is having your artwork safely conserved and heck, you can hang it up and enjoy it!

what is most important when framing anything of value, from your children’s art to a signed autograph is the conservation quality. You need UV glass to keep the artwork from fading, the glass could be regular or reflection control, but the UV is essential, do not skip on this, particularly with anything with a signature, even with ‘permanent marker’ it isn’t permanent!

the next element is what is behind your artwork, it has to be acid-free, so no cardboard, fiberboard, anything with paper pulp. Acid burn is the yellowing, browning and spotting you see on old prints, paper materials, etc. and it’s caused by the backing. so if you have any pictures in your home with cardboard on the back, go to the craft store and by a sheet of acid free foam core and replace everything

How is your artwork attached to the backing? NEVER USE GLUE, this destroys any value of your collectible. (also why you should not laminate) a process called ‘dry mounting’ is gluing your work to a surface with a heat press. Artwork should be ‘hinged’ with acid-free tape, or use acid-free corners.

think about what is ontop of your artwork, in this case, any mats must be acid free. You don’t want glass to be sitting ontop of your art, if you don’t have mats, there should be a spacer underneath the lip or rabbit of the frame (that holds everything in)  to keep the glass off, as artwork, signatures, can adhere to the glass, given enough time.

Make sure that you have a piece of paper (often butcher/brown paper) on the back of your artwork, this keeps the inside clean and dust free. It’s easy to replace if it is torn by patching, or removing all of the old paper and applying new with double stick tape. (this never touches the art, so it’s not a problem if it’s regular ol paper)

Oh, FYI, never use sawtooth hangers! The little nail on comb looking thing, it can easily be torn off, tipped off the wall, and lends to some bowing at the top of the frame. Always have a wire hangar on the back, screwed into the frame.

If you ever need to ship your artwork, take out the glass, make certain the corners of the frame are reinforced when packing. If glass breaks in shipping, it often scratches whatever is underneath. Stack frames front to front or back to back, to prevent hardware from scratching glass.

Storing artwork - whenever you can have it lying flat, Do Not Store In Cardboard, or put acid free paper around the artwork so it’s not touching the cardboard. When storing artwork in tubes, find the largest width strongest tube possible, as this places less stress on paper fibers (and it’s easier to get in and out)

[ohioartleague]

"Ready to Hang/Framing" Workshop this Saturday!

“Ready to Hang/Framing” Workshop this Saturday!

You can still sign up for the “Ready to Hang/Framing” Professional Workshop! Visit the Ohio Art League Professional Workshop page to pre-register for this or any of our other upcoming workshops!

It’s nearly just as important to properly display and hang your piece of art as the work itself, so discover what it means when submissions ask for ‘ready to hang.’ During this hands on workshop with…

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