Gambino’s: A Reunited Love
LOCATION: SF FINANCAL DISTRICT
Captain Babs on the bridge.
On our maiden voyage, we came across the small Financial District shop known as Gambino’s New York Subs. This mom and pop spot caters to the mainly 9-5 worker bees in San Francisco’s downtown heart. The place is simple and offers a variety of your classic deli sandwiches and salads with simple, yet high quality taste on its side. I walked in expecting standard deli fare and was blown away by a flavor explosion so delicious, I feel bad for any sandwiches that come after this. It left an indelible mark on my soul. One that whispers softly against the waters of the deep, “TUNA...”
I had been to Gambino’s many a morning as it is one of the few places in the area where you can get a tasty bagel sandwich and coffee for under $5. I had always noted with a slight nod of appreciation their variety of vegetarian and pescatarian friendly sandwich options sharing space with the same love as the beloved MBS of many a sandwich afficionado. One day after we had embarked on the quest for the elusive tuna sandwich, my stomach growled in turmoil. It was only a matter of time before the hanger set in. Time was running out. As luck would have it, Gambino’s had no line and offered respite for the weary traveler. I entered seeking in earnest, would they have the tuna salad I so desired?
They did. Called Montauk, which I assume is a reference to the quaint sea village located at the end of Long Island. Within about five to ten minutes, my sandwich, along with a cup of tomato soup, was called and handed to me in a white paper bag, containing the paper-wrapped sandwich, the cup of soup, a spoon, and two napkins.
I thanked the tuna gods for smiling upon me and went along my merry way.
Gambino’s offers the option of a soft roll, an Italian roll, or a wheat roll for their sandwiches. Mine was on a fresh Italian roll. It was a delightful balance of a slight crunch on the outside, with fluffy goodness within. With rolls, the tendency can be that the ratio of bread to sandwich is dissapointingly overpowering. However, Giambino’s clearly knows what they are doing. The roll offered a way to hold onto the sandwich and caught all the goodness inside, without containing too much bread.
I couldn’t tell what kind of tuna it was, but nothing about it stood out in a bad way. The tuna was fresh and I get the feeling it came from an oil-packed can or glass as opposed to water-packed. IMO, this is vastly superior to water-packed cans. It manages to preserve the essence of the tuna and bring out its flavors.
The deli’s own tuna salad was composed of tuna, olive oil, fresh herbs, artichokes, and capers. A very Italian version of the classic tuna salad we hold so near and dear. This salad is also offered by the half pint, which is a wonderful option for those avoiding bread. The capers and artichokes were a welcome touch and provided something a bit different than your standard pickle relish or celery which most places do when they add in ingredients to the tuna salad. The mix itself was well-balanced and though it used olive oil instead of mayo as its binding agent, I found it to be lighter and more refreshing and SUBSTANTIALLY less mushy than most mayo-based mixes.
Now at Gambino’s, you have the choice between an East Coast or West Coast styled sub. East Coast provides your shredded LTO along with olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, and herbs. With West Coast, you get your LTO with mayo, mustard, and pickles. Given that the place was called NEW YORK subs, I opted for East Coast and was pleasantly surprised by how the combo of vinegar and olive oil highlight the flavors of the sandwich and soaked into the bread. It also came with provolone cheese. One subtle aspect that I would be remiss if I did not highlight, was the fact that the sandwich was evenly composed so that from start to finish you received a bit that gave you a bit of the bread, the condiments, and the tuna. It was clear I was dealing with an EXPERT SANDWICH ARTIST
Giambino’s is in the SF Financial District, so there’s not much in terms of space and casual eating experiences that they can really offer, however, I believe their charm comes from recognizing that and keeping it simple and the prices reasonable. In SF, you can walk into some places who will charge you $15 for an “artisanal sandwich”. This is pretentious crap. Artistry comes in all forms, my friends, and simply because they are standard or classic, doesn’t mean you can overlook the details. And here’s what I liked:
A) My to-go bag had exactly what I needed - no more, no less. Now, they didn’t use compostable materials for their utensils, which I would have prefered, but I appreciate that they didn’t give you a small book’s worth of napkins with your order. There’s no need for that.
B) the condiment station - should you choose to adulterate your sandwich - was neatly organized and well stocked.
C) For a quality sandwich, I was in and out of there in no time. They know what they’re doing.
D) Kind and no fuss service. The people who work at Giambino’s are straight forward, but always kind and get you exactly what you need without a lot of fuss. It’s all about the sandwich.
BONUS: They are across the street from a POPOS (Privately Owned Public Open Space), which provides a quiet spot to enjoy your sandwich when the weather is nice.
Still, at the end of the day, Giambino’s is an average hole in the wall deli. I appreciate its simplicity, but would need to leave room for places that offer a nice eat-in experience.
You don’t need to make huge waves in order to impress me. The salad mix with artichokes, capers and olive oil base was delightful and I appreciate all the subtle extras from the to-go bag with no more and no less than what was needed and the option to go East or West Coast. This place meets the mark.
I would be hard-pressed to find a better classic sandwich place that makes a good tuna sandwich - remember, not all delis can do this. Great mix without loading you down with mayo and cheese. Well done, Giambino’s, you’ve left a mark to beat. Thank you for such a wonderful tuna sandwich and I will be back to try it West Coast Style!