These buns are in tandem both nostalgic and modern. Iced buns hold a dear place in my heart. At my secondary school (an intimidating neo-gothic building with matching rules and wooly stockings) we always got an abundant break-time offering and every week there were light buns with pastel coloured icings. I would gorge myself with delight and enjoy every last mouthful and licked digit.
The blue-print for this recipe is the classic Greggs style or in my case school dining room soft finger, with a thick slick of water based icing. However, I’ve really ramped these up with finely ground fennel seeds and the distinguished perfume of pink grapefruit. So basically, a total triumph. The dough itself is easy to make. It is really wet and gains great elasticity. They really live up to memory and are an indulgent after-school offering.
250g strong white bread flour
1 tsp ground fennel seeds
Combine the flour, fennel seeds, sugar, butter, egg, yeast, salt and milk in a large mixing bowl. If you are using a stand mixer, place it on a low motion for 10 minutes. If you are doing the kneading by hand, gradually draw the ingredients together. Now gradually add the water and continue to work the dough until it is really elastic and remains wet. Grease a medium bowl with a tablespoon of vegetable oil and spoon in the sloppy dough. Cover with clingfilm and leave to prove for an hour, or until it has doubled in size.
Line two baking trays with baking parchment. Preheat the oven to 220C. Oil a worktop with the remaining spoon of vegetable oil. Turn out the dough and knock out the air. Divide the dough into 8 or so pieces, shaping into little sausages, stretching and swinging until you get the shape required. Space the buns out as they will double in size. Cover with a cloth and leave to prove again for 15 minutes or so. Place in the oven for 10 minutes. Remove to a cooling rack. To make the icing, combine the icing sugar with the grapefruit zest. A table spoon at a time, add water, being abstemious in your addings: you want the icing to be pretty firm as gravity will always take its course. Spread the thick icing over your buns and serve with a big pot of tea.