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Why Chef Josiah Citrin Adores Seasonal Fall Produce
They say that Southern California doesn’t have seasons, but we’d like to disagree. Turns out we aren’t alone. Chef Josiah Citrin, chef/owner of the famed Melisse restaurant in Santa Monica, CA agrees, seamlessly featuring the autumn season’s produce on his French-inspired menu throughout the year.
We chatted with him about what makes the fall so special, and why he loves integrating pomegranates into his Michelin-starred menus.
What’s your favorite part of fall in Los Angeles?
My favorite part of fall is the cool offshore wind that blows later in the mornings, giving you more time to surf.
Are there any fall fruits or veggies you look forward to seeing at the farmers market this time of year?
I always look forward to the Kabocha squash and pomegranates.
A lot of people are intimidated by autumnal ingredients like gourds and pomegranates. Do you think there's merit in working through the intimidating exterior?
I think there is 100% merit in working through the intimidating exterior. They yield so many wonderful flavors, consistencies and textures. They also bring warmth to your soul.
We loved your halibut with wilted young spinach and POM citrus vinaigrette that you wrote for our POM cookbook. Why is it that you like working with pomegranates as an ingredient during this time of year?
I always love working with ingredients that are available for such a short amount of time. Pomegranates have a sweet and tart flavor with a hint of bitterness which creates well-balanced sauces a nice finishing note to dishes.
Chef Josiah Citrin
Los Angeles
Mélisse
Los Angeles native Chef Josiah Citrin discovered his passion for food from his mother, a caterer, and his grandmothers, both excellent cooks. Citrin moved to Paris after graduating from high school, worked at Vivarois and La Poste for three years, and explored his heritage while learning the rules of traditional French cooking.
He returned to Los Angeles in 1990 working at the city’s finest restaurants—notably Wolfgang Puck’s Chinois on Main and Granita. After two years, he moved to Patina and Pinot Bistro, cooking alongside famed chef and restaurateur Joachim Splichal. Citrin then became chef at Capri in Venice and Jackson’s in West Hollywood.
In 1996, he partnered with Raphael Lunetta to launch JiRaffe, specializing in California French Bistro food. His lifelong dream of opening his own fine dining establishment led him to sell his interest in JiRaffe to Lunetta. In 1999, he opened Mélisse. In 2004, he and Lunetta opened Lemon Moon, a casual New York-style eatery with an eclectic menu.
His recent honors include: Two Stars (Michelin Guide, Los Angeles, 2008, 2009), “No. 1 for Top Food in Los Angeles” and “No. 1 American-French Restaurant for Food in Los Angeles” (Zagat Guide, 2013), Five Stars (Forbes Travel Guide, 2013), Wine Spectator “Best Award of Excellence” (2001–2008), “Top 40
Restaurants” (Gayot.com, since 2006), “Top Ten New Chefs” (Food & Wine, 1997) and “Rising Star Chef” (Restaurant Hospitality Magazine, 1997). He was named one of the Best Chefs of the Year (Los Angeles Magazine, 2012).
Chef Josiah Citrin
Award winning Chef Josiah Citrin of Two Michelin Star restaurant Melisse in Santa Monica, CA.
Chef Josiah Citrin Hosts POM Fall Harvest Dinner At Melisse
Take a look at these behind the scenes shots from our recent POM harvest dinner at Mélisse, where POM Chef Josiah Citrin hosted a small dinner party featuring pomegranates as the main ingredient on the menu.
The food was phenomenal, and really highlighted the season.
Here are some scenes from the acclaimed chef's Santa Monica kitchen.
POM Chef Josiah Citrin on His Thanksgiving Traditions
The LA Time featured one of our favorite chefs in this video on his Thanksgiving traditions. Though Mélisse has earned two Michelin stars, his Thanksgiving dinner is based on the same flavors his mom served when he was growing up. He takes those ideas and gives them the fine dining twist, presenting an elegant yet humble spread.
Grilled New York Steak with POM-Tequila Glaze
This hearty dish from L.A.’s French master Josiah Citrin is sure to warm up your weeknight menu. It's perfect for fall and beyond.
by Josiah Citrin
Melisse
Download Hi-Res PDF
Time To Table
30 to 45 Minutes
Servings
6
Degree of Difficulty
Medium
Ingredients
2 cups juice from POM Wonderful Pomegranates or 2 cups POM Wonderful 100% Pomegranate Juice
3 16-oz. New York steaks
sea salt and fresh cracked black pepper
1/2 cup orange juice
1/4 cup lime juice
1/2 cup tequila
1/4 cup honey
1 tablespoon coriander seeds, toasted and crushed
sliced green onions to garnish
Preparation
POM Reduction: 1. Prepare fresh pomegranate juice, if necessary.* 2. Combine all liquid ingredients and coriander seeds in a heavy duty sauce pot. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer. 3. Let simmer, skimming off any impurities that may rise to the top, until 1 cup remains and the reduction is thick and syrupy but not burned and sticky. Keep warm.
Steaks: 1. Season the steaks with sea salt. Place steaks on the grill, and turn them over every 30 seconds for 6 minutes. 2. After 6 minutes (12 turns), brush the steaks with POM Reduction and continue to cook, turning every 30 seconds for 4 more minutes. Brush the steaks with the reduction every turn. 3. After 10 minutes of total grilling, transfer steaks to a wire rack with a tray underneath and let rest for 5 minutes. 4. After 5 minutes of resting, brush the steaks again and place back on the grill. Cook for another 4 minutes, turning and brushing with the reduction every 30 seconds. 5. Transfer back to the wire rack and let rest for another 5 minutes. At this point the steaks will be medium rare. 6. Continue cooking in the same manner until desired doneness.
To Serve: 1. Slice each steak into 4 pieces, sprinkle with sea salt and fresh cracked peppercorns. 2. Drizzle with sauce and sprinkle with sliced green onions.
*For 2 cups of juice, cut 4–6 large POM Wonderful Pomegranates in half and juice them with a citrus reamer or juicer. Pour the mixture through a cheesecloth-lined strainer or sieve. Set the juice aside.
Josiah Citrin is the chef-owner of Mélisse, the 14-year-old fine dining restaurant where caviar, truffles and purse stools have never gone out of style. Citrin, a Los Angeles native, moved to Paris after graduating from Santa Monica High School and worked at Vivarois and La Poste, eventually returning home to work for Wolfgang Puck and Joachim Splichal. In 1996 he opened JiRaffe and then Mélisse. Lately Citrin has been putting to use the private 12-seat Augustin dining room with a series titled “Something Different in the Augie Room,” a six-course riff on whatever’s inspiring him at the moment, whether an ingredient, technique or historical event.
Chef of the Moment: Melisse's Josiah Citrin (also a POM featured chef), ready for wood pigeon