XL or Free Size Kimono Jackets
In yesterday’s blog we discussed why it’s difficult for fuller figure folks to find vintage Japanese kimono in their size. Today we focus on an easier-to-wear, easier-to-fit alternative to a long kimono robe: the kimono jacket.
There are four styles of kimono jacket that can work for larger sizes. Two of them - the dochugi and the neneko - offer a roomier fit as-is, and two others - the haori and the michiyuki - can be modified to create an XL or free size jacket.
The dochugi crosses over in the front and closes with ties or a “frog” cording on the right side. There are also little fabric ties on the inside that attach the inner crossed panel to the left inside seam. It’s this tie system that can be adjusted for a roomer fit, accommodating up to a size 16, in general.
Dochugi are considered conservative - even “old fashioned” - these days and were more typically worn by older women, so the patterning and colors are usually muted or subtle. Dochugi are not as easy to find as other styles of kimono jacket, so if you find one you like that fits, better grab it!
The translation of neneko is something like “little sleepy time”, as it was originally used by new mothers to carry their babies (on their backs!) into town for shopping or errands. Neneko usually have a telltale black satin or velveteen collar and inner sleeve trim. Winter neneko are padded for warmth, while summer versions may be unlined. All have wide sleeve openings and cross over with inner and outer ties that can be adjusted for a closer or looser fit.
Like the dochugi, the colors and patterns tend to be casual, modest and understated since the original wearers were new mothers tending to household matters. Also like dochugi, neneko are rare compared to other kimono jackets.
At Kyoto Kimono, we modify two different styles of traditional kimono jackets into versions that offer more room for the “non-Japanese sized” kimono lover.
We start with a michiyuki jacket which typically has a square neckline and two front panels that overlap and close with snaps covered with button blanks.There are also inner ties that attach the right panel to the left inner seam to keep the hemline straight. Michiyuki are usually too narrow for most western waists and hips, so the snap closures can easily pull apart when the wearer sits down.
To create our Japanique Jacket, we remove all of the snaps, buttons, and ties and then fold back the top of each of the front panels to create a lapel look. We use fabric glue to attach the lapels and to add the button blanks at each corner for a finished look. This modification creates a kimono jacket that is free size, fitting up to a size 16-18 when worn as an open jacket but still workable on smaller frames as it crosses over and can be belted.
We start with a regular woman’s haori, which is not meant to cross over in the front but to be worn open so others can see the kimono that would be worn underneath. The front and back sides are joined by a gusset piece that tapers up from the hemline to narrow the jacket under the armpit. There is usually enough extra fabric in the side seam selvages to increase the size of the jacket considerably. We unpick those gusset seams and re-sew them as close to the edges as possible. Doing this by hand with a hidden stitch would be the most traditional way to do this but we do it by machine to keep the cost down.
We call this our “Oki Haori” since oki means “big” in Japanese. The resulting size will vary with each jacket but most of our Oki Haori will fit up to a size 18+.
We hope that inspires you consider a kimono jacket as an alternative to a long kimono if the fit is a challenge. To see our current selection of all of the jackets mentioned here, visit our XL Jacket sale page at www.kyotokimono.com.
