Let’s talk about the Litter Box
So here we are, the big bad issue that I see more frequently than any other problem. For one reason or another, your cat isn’t using the litter box. It is a proverbial minefield (and also sometimes a literal one), and it can be incredibly stressful, for both you and the cat.
So I will be outlining a general plan for anyone who may be dealing with this problem, or in case you deal with it in the future. While this is generalized for ease of writing, you can easily modify these solutions to fit more specific needs for each individual situation.
So first thing’s first - if your cat is eliminating outside of a litter box (either urine or feces), it is absolutely necessary for you to take that cat to the vet immediately. The majority of litter box problems stem from a physical ailment or issue that the cat is experiencing, and for your cat’s safety, and for your own sanity, you need to deal with that issue immediately. There are a laundry list of reasons medically why your cat may be eliminating outside of a litter box. It may be something easy to fix, such as a urinary tract infection, or it may be something more serious that may require further testing or additional treatment. No matter what though, your first step in solving a litter box problem MUST be to visit your vet.
Why is this so important? Improper elimination can actually continue after a problem has been treated. The reason is called operant conditioning. While your cat was ill, they grew to associate their litter box with painful elimination, which led to them using something other than the litter box, and while fixing the source of the pain is mandatory in getting them back on their feet, it causes the cat to continue assuming that the litter box was causing them pain. What makes it worse? When a cat is cured of their ailment, they may continue to use other locations outside of their litter box. What are they met with? No pain! In a cat’s mind, the pain stems from that litter box use, but since there is no pain anymore, they’re more encouraged to use things that aren’t their box, such as a bedspread, a sink, a laundry basket, etc. This is why it’s important to find medical attention for the cat immediately. It will give them less time to associate that painful elimination with the litter box, and less time to find other places for them to eliminate.
So the health problems are squared away, but you still have an issue with improper elimination. What can you do? Here are multiple steps you can take. Keep in mind that not one single step will work. You have to provide ALL of the steps in order for the behavior to stop!
1. Cease the issue.
This first step can be difficult. First, you will need to thoroughly clean any and all areas where the cat has been improperly eliminating. I highly recommend using enzymatic cleaners, and they sell them in pet stores. When cats smell their scent in an area, it will encourage them to use the area over and over again. Deep-cleaning carpets, thoroughly washing your bedding, it can be strenuous, but it absolutely has to be done.
Once the areas have been cleaned completely, you’ll need to block access to that area for the time being. Blocking off a bedroom or a bathroom entirely will work just by closing the door, but I understand it’s not always possible. Try putting down a layer of plastic, foil, double-sided tape, a pan of water, or anything else you can think of that will keep the cat off of that area. Even putting a large box over an area so the cat can’t get to it. When a cat does not have access to their preferred areas of elimination, they will find the ideal one. Which leads us to our next step.
2. Attract them to the desired area
My vet once told me “Would you prefer to use a toilet in a sparkly clean bathroom with a heated seat and a warm-water bidet, or a truck stop restroom?” That’s what I ask people when they complain about the upkeep necessary for litter boxes. Nobody likes cleaning a litter box. I don’t like cleaning a litter box. But I do it every single day because I know my cats can’t, but they absolutely would if they could. You must make your litter box as attractive as possible to the cat.
Location - Sometimes your cat may not like where you’ve put your litter box. Take a hint from them. Try and place an additional litter box close to where they were improperly eliminating, as close as you’re able to, that is. Make sure the cat has a safe entry and exit route from the box, too. Cats do not enjoy feeling cornered, especially when they’re prone to attack like while they’re eliminating. Yes, this might require you to put a litter box in a bedroom, or a living room, but there are ways (for a different post, I think) to make litter boxes appear a little less intrusive. And if they’re out in the open, you’re more likely to clean them the recommended amount (at LEAST once per day!) If you’re having a difficult time, you may need to clean twice a day.
Type of box - Some cats don’t like some types of litter boxes. Closed-in boxes, while ideal for the average person who doesn’t like seeing cat-poop may actually increase the level of fear the cat has while using the box. There’s one way in and one way out, perfect for an ambush. It also traps in the smell and leaves feces out to remain wet for longer, which is not ideal for the cat. An open-top litter box with 6-inch sides is ideal. There are mats you can use to handle kicked-up litter, or even giving them a box with higher sides but two entrances by cutting them out is preferable.
I do not recommend automatic litter boxes. If your cat happily uses one, great! My concern mostly comes from the fact that people leave these boxes unattended for several days at a time. If a cat has a health problem, it’s in the poo (usually). That’s our first hint that’s something is wrong, and if you’re only checking the tray every week, you could be missing some vital clues for your cat’s health. If you do have one, just make sure to have a daily check to be sure that your cat is healthy!
Type of litter - This one’s a can of worms, but I’ll say it plain. Let your cat pick your litter. Give them options. Some cats will refuse to use food-based litters (corn and wheat based), others will refuse silicone-based litters. It’s up to your cat. Make sure the cat does not ingest any litter at any time, and if they do, try a new one. I can talk on my soap box about the benefits and downfalls of certain types of litter, but right now your goal is to make sure that your cat is USING their box.
Amount - You’ll probably need to increase the amount of litter boxes in your home. The age old amount of cats + 1 = amount of litter boxes rule is a VERY good rule of thumb, but that’s assuming that none of the cats involved are having litter issues. There could be problems with sharing boxes, or location. Provide more than they need.
Other - Make sure the cat does not share their litter box space with other activities. Cats don’t like to eat where they use the bathroom (a feeling I can thoroughly get behind). They also don’t like to play or be pet in that area, too. We’ll cover that in the next (and final) step. You can even purchase litter attractants online that will help a cat find where they need to go!
3. Transform their problem areas
By this point, you’re probably sick of having to block things off and clean your cats box so many times per day, but we’re almost there, I promise. Your last step is to change the way cats think about their previous problem areas.
Cats, similar to humans, enjoy assigning areas of a house to certain activities. Would you feel weird if you had to suddenly use the bathroom in your kitchen? Or in your living room? Cats have this same sort of avoidance with their litter boxes.
Take those areas where the cats would improperly eliminate before, and transform them into spaces where positive activities take place! Try playing on the bed, for example. Feed them treats near the sink! Offer them food in that corner where they used to go! Very quickly, cats will identify that these areas are for other activities, even brushing and cuddling if they gain positive enrichment from that (each cat is different). They will be inclined to avoid those areas for elimination, and it will strengthen their desire to eliminate in the desired location!
Keep in mind, this process may take a while. I encourage people to try these steps for 30 or even 60 days before they’re entirely successful and the behavior is eradicated. There are other steps needed in regards to spraying or marking, but I will be handling that entirely in a different post, so stay tuned!
Most cats are rehomed or abandoned because of litter box problems. I hope I can help keep cats where they are with their families with these steps.
