Mit drei neuen Varianten der Legend Diver will Longines in diesem Sommer die Tiefen der Meere und die Herzen von
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Mit drei neuen Varianten der Legend Diver will Longines in diesem Sommer die Tiefen der Meere und die Herzen von
2024 wird die Kollektion Longines Legend Diver anlässlich ihres 65-jährigen Bestehens um neue Zifferblätter in Grün, Terrakotta und Anthrazi
Longines is breathing new life into its first diver watch, a 1959 piece that was introduced at a time when water sports were becoming extremely popular. Reliable and elegant, the model would be a great success among diving enthusiasts. The Longines Skin Diver Watch derives its essence from this emblematic timepiece that made an important mark on the company’s history.
In homage to the watchmaking tradition it has carried on for more than 185 years, Longines has chosen to revisit the historical pieces that helped solidify its international reach. Now, the winged hourglass brand is bringing its first diver watch – a 1959 timepiece – back to life.
Longines Skin Diver Watch
The Longines Skin Diver Watch reflects the sleek aesthetic of the original model while offering high-performing, contemporary technical features. This new watch is an enthusiastic tribute to the timelessness of the Saint-Imier watchmaker’s creations and its ability to spotlight history through art and elegance.
The Longines historic collection regularly serves as the brand’s inspiration for the creation of new models, in particular, its Heritage re-editions. Now, Longines is breathing new life into its first diver watch, a 1959 piece that was introduced at a time when water sports were becoming extremely popular. Reliable and elegant, the model would be a great success among diving enthusiasts.
The Longines Skin Diver Watch derives its essence from this emblematic timepiece that made an important mark on the company’s history.
This new creation preserves the spirit and clean lines of the original model while benefiting from the brand’s watchmaking expertise. It features high-performing, contemporary technical characteristics, such as sapphire crystal, a screwed-in crown and back for water resistance up to 300 metres, and a highly reliable automatic L888 calibre, produced exclusively for Longines.
The Longines Skin Diver Watch features the sober aesthetic typical of diver watches. Its 42mm steel case is characterised by its striking unidirectional bezel coated in black PVD and enhanced with markers, including a luminescent triangle, which serves as the main indicator for calculating immersion time. Its grained black dial, topped with domed sapphire crystal, features indexes, Arabic numerals and hands covered in Super LumiNova® to ensure optimal reading of time in line with the demands of the discipline. Like the original model, a stamped logo illustrating a diver adorns the back of this piece. Customers can choose between a black rubber strap with a crisscrossed finish, a Milanese-style steel bracelet or a natural brown leather strap to complete the look of this characterful watch.
The Longines Skin Diver Watch will delight fans of water sports who want to wear a high-performing timepiece but refuse to compromise on elegance.
Longines Skin Diver Watch L2.822.4.56.9
The Longines Skin Diver Watch Ref. L2.822.4.56.9 features the sober aesthetic typical of diver watches. Its 42mm steel case is characterised by its striking unidirectional bezel coated in black PVD and enhanced with markers, including a luminescent triangle, which serves as the main indicator for calculating immersion time. Its grained black dial, topped with domed sapphire crystal, features indexes, Arabic numerals and hands covered in Super LumiNova® to ensure optimal reading of time in line with the demands of the discipline. Like the original model, a stamped logo illustrating a diver adorns the back of this piece. A black rubber strap with a crisscrossed finish completes the look of this characterful watch. Price €2,460, VAT included.
The Longines Skin Diver Watch L2.822.4.56.9
Longines Skin Diver Watch L2.822.4.56.2
The Longines Skin Diver Watch Ref. L2.822.4.56.2 features the sober aesthetic typical of diver watches. Its 42mm steel case is characterised by its striking unidirectional bezel coated in black PVD and enhanced with markers, including a luminescent triangle, which serves as the main indicator for calculating immersion time. Its grained black dial, topped with domed sapphire crystal, features indexes, Arabic numerals and hands covered in Super LumiNova® to ensure optimal reading of time in line with the demands of the discipline. Like the original model, a stamped logo illustrating a diver adorns the back of this piece. A natural brown leather strap completes the look of this characterful watch. Price €2,460, VAT included.
The Longines Skin Diver Watch L2.822.4.56.2
Longines Skin Diver Watch L2.822.4.56.6
The Longines Skin Diver Watch Ref. L2.822.4.56.6 features the sober aesthetic typical of diver watches. Its 42mm steel case is characterised by its striking unidirectional bezel coated in black PVD and enhanced with markers, including a luminescent triangle, which serves as the main indicator for calculating immersion time. Its grained black dial, topped with domed sapphire crystal, features indexes, Arabic numerals and hands covered in Super LumiNova® to ensure optimal reading of time in line with the demands of the discipline. Like the original model, a stamped logo illustrating a diver adorns the back of this piece. A Milanese-style steel bracelet completes the look of this characterful watch. Price €2,460, VAT included.
The Longines Skin Diver Watch L2.822.4.56.6
The Longines Skin Diver Watch Technical Specifications
Reference numbers: L2.822.4.56.2/6/9
Calibre:
Mechanical self-winding movement,
Calibre L888.2 (ETA A31.L01)
11½ lines, 21 jewels, 25’200 vibrations per hours
Power reserve: 64 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds
Case:
Round, stainless steel, diam 42 mm
Unidirectional rotating bezel with black PVD treatment enhanced with indexes, Arabic numerals and a luminescent triangle at 12 o’clock
Screw-down case back and screw-in crown
Embossed diver symbol on the case back
Dial: Domed grained black dial, 8 indices and 4 Arabic numerals with Super-LumiNova®
Hands: Polished rhodium-plated with Super-LumiNova®
Water-resistance: To 30 bar (300 meters)
Crystal: Domed sapphire with several layers of anti-reflective coating on both sides
Strap:
Milanese stainless steel bracelet with triple safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism
Brown leather strap with diving buckle
Black rubber strap with diving buckle
About Longines
Based in Saint-Imier, Switzerland since 1832, the watchmaking company Longines offers expertise based on devotion to tradition, elegance and performance. With generations of experience as official timekeeper of world championships and as partner of international sports federations, Longines has built solid and lasting relationships in the world of sport over the years. Known for the elegance of its timepieces, Longines is a member of Swatch Group S.A., the world’s leading watch manufacturer. With a winged hourglass as its emblem, the brand has outlets in more than 150 countries.
For more information please visit the Longines Website.
News: The Longines Skin Diver Watch Longines is breathing new life into its first diver watch, a 1959 piece that was introduced at a time when water sports were becoming extremely popular.
Longines – Legend Diver Watch, un hymne aux profondeurs
Longines – Legend Diver Watch, un hymne aux profondeurs
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Longines 在古董錶界佔有一席之地是眾所皆知的,以前所生產的經典手錶到現在還是錶迷們所津津樂道的神作,從 40 年代的 30ch、13zn、12.68z 到 60 年代的 Super Compressor 都是拍賣會以及國外古董錶圈子的常客之一。
近幾年,浪琴開啟了復刻的風潮,而其中最成功的例子就是這回阿杜手上的 LLD ,許多人問過我,浪琴值得買嗎?他是 Swatch 集團的誒~So what ? 他們家的復刻系列可是老味十足、品質優良的好物呢!這回就讓我來跟大家說說 LLD 吧~
Super Compressor
在先前的文章中,我在結尾中說過,還有另一種潛水錶存在於世界上,而這種潛水錶有著極為獨特的外型:兩個錶冠,他的名字就是 Super Compressor。
Super Compressor 是錶殼製造商 Ervin Piquerez S.A. (EPSA) 於 1950 ~ 1970 年初所設計製造的一種錶殼,此種錶殼有著潛越深,錶背就會隨著水中壓力的壓擠而達到完全密合的專利設計,而大部分 Super Compressor 的錶背裡都有設計彈簧,因此就算在沒有任何水壓的幫助下,也能達到密封的狀態。如果手錶隨著潛水伕下潛到更深的環境時,更能夠因為水壓而增加其密封的程度,而此種錶殼設計的另一項優點就是能夠延長防水膠圈的使用年限(不像一般的旋入式錶背, O – Ring 時時刻刻都壓得死死的,久了零件便會因為疲乏導致損耗)。
就像剛才所提到的,此種錶型有兩個錶冠,一個在 2 點鐘方位、另一個則位於 4 點鐘,上面的那個錶冠是用來調整計時外圈的,而下面的是用來做時間調整的。
阿杜想買錶
話說那是一個極度悠閒的週日下午,還是學生的我正在想著晚餐要吃什麼之際,便看到阿杜透過 FaceBook 私訊了我…
“ K 哥認為 FC 的錶好嗎?“
這句話勾起了我推他入坑的慾望,反正閒閒沒事,不如多推一個… 在那之後,我向他詢問了預算,對什麼手錶有興趣,等等的問題。就在 2 ~ 3 天的瘋狂洗腦後,阿杜妥協了… 從一開始 2 萬元的預算,提高到 5 萬,好樣子的~跟這種人做朋友最好,我最愛看人花錢了(阿杜對不起)。
就在一切都談妥後,便在回國之前去了趟荷蘭,向 Ace Jeweler 的好友 Dale 購入他現在手上的這枚復刻潛水錶,並前往知名古董錶店 Amsterdam watch company AWCO 購入手工仿舊帶,阿杜真的不簡單,第一枚手錶便決定入手藏家們所愛的仿舊帶,還好我沒讓杜兄失望,這枚手錶一直到現在還是他的最愛!
Longines Legend Diver ( LLD )
LLD 搭配黑色 Nato
LLD 的規格如下:
錶殼尺寸:42mm
錶殼厚度:13mm
錶耳間距:22mm
防水深度:300m
功能:時、分、秒、日期顯示
機心:ETA 2824-2
時間回到 1959 年,浪琴推出了一款名為 Nautilus Skin Diver 的潛水錶(ref. 6921),在這之後浪琴因為潛水運動的發達,決定更進一步推出尺寸較大的潛水錶( 6921 因為產期過短,所以現在非常的罕見),也就是 42mm 的 7042。從外型上來看,現代的 legend diver 跟 7042 是一樣的,但是各位如果仔細看指針以及錶冠,會發現其實是不同的,所以嚴格來講, legend diver 其實是 60 年代末期所製作的 7594 的復刻。
Longines 7042
Nautilus Skin diver (ref.6921)
Longines 7594,借圖於:watchprosite.com
LLD 在 2007 年推出,當年的第一代復刻為沒有日期的版本,在 2009 年無日期的版本停產,取而代之的是多了日期窗的第二代 LLD,浪琴又在 2011~12 年時,再度推出無日期版的 LLD,原因無人而知,我猜是因為古董錶風潮慢慢崛起的原因吧?個人其實較喜歡的是無日期版的 LLD,原因很簡單,因為這版本在視覺上最接近原版!
首先,讓我談談這 42mm 的錶殼尺寸,每位有讀過我文章的朋友以及周遭錶友都知道,因為本人手腕較小再加上我是一名古董控,所以偏好尺寸較小的錶款,但是這枚 LLD 因為錶耳弧度較大、錶耳孔的設計較接近錶耳深處,所以配戴起來較貼附手腕,因此就算手腕小的人也能輕鬆的駕馭它,假設碰上手腕較粗的玩家(阿杜),也能因為其偌大的錶徑帶出較粗獷的工具錶味。此款手錶因為鏡面拋光以及大尺寸的設計,所以不管是搭配 Polo 衫或是西裝都能行,是枚又文又武的好選擇。
42mm 的大尺寸
各位如果有仔細的欣賞這錶的面盤會發現不少的細節藏在裡面,從時標、夜光塗料,乃至於黑漆面盤,都在默默的向錶主暗示著它不過是枚披著新殼的老錶,為什麼這麼說呢?因為黑漆面是 60 年代以前的老盤代表,所謂的 Glossy Gilt dial 更是現今愛好者們所追求的極品。香草色以及淺藍的時標不但讓面盤看起來更繽紛、更讓人又愛又恨,在以往還沒有 Super Luminova 的年代,所有的錶廠都是使用 Tritium 作為夜光的塗料,而這款塗料會因時間、氧化的關係褪成香草色,因此現在看到的老錶時標才會呈現那迷人的色澤,老玩家們多數對現在刻意使用這顏色的這項設計嗤之以鼻,原因就在於不自然,不過對我而言無所謂,這顏色固然人工,但你不得不承認它漂亮,而浪琴老式的 Logo 以及書寫的 Automatic 字體更將復刻精神發揮得淋漓盡致!
淋漓盡致的字體展現
顏色的迷人之處
潛水錶有個特徵,那就是尺寸適中、又有牙齒的錶冠設計,這枚 LLD 也不例外,因此在做時間以及外圈的調整時,操作起來相當便利,以往的 Super Compressor 因為特殊的防水設計,所以不像傳統潛水錶使用旋入式錶冠,反而採用一般的壓入式設計,新版的 LLD 改良了這項缺失,換上防水性能較佳的旋入設計,反而大大提升其防水性能,不過各位也別因為這原因就在水中調整 2 點鐘方位的外圈,旋開來可是會進水的喔!錶冠上面棋盤刻紋的設計不僅為這枚手錶添加了工具錶的風味更忠於原味。
原廠錶扣
棋盤刻紋的錶冠
潛水伕印記
Eta 2824 雖然只是一般的通用機心,但就像我之前所聊過的迷思問題,通用機心有通用機心的好,不但能將手錶以及後續的維修保養價格拉低,更因其耐操的性質使得一般玩家能無後顧之憂的帶著它上山下海,此機心的日期快調功能讓喜愛古董錶的我們能在換錶配戴之際快速得撥日,讓我們能同時享受老錶的外型以及新錶所帶來的便利,而背蓋上面潛水伕的印記不但忠於原版的設計,更替這枚近代復刻增添了些許玩味。
錶帶的選搭
這枚新錶因為老味濃厚,因此搭配仿舊帶是一個很好的選擇,假設各位喜愛 Nato 帶,買幾條黑色、灰色亦或是卡其色的錶帶,都會是很好的搭配選項。
說到 Nato,我最近發現了兩家不錯的錶帶廠,第一家是英國的 Phoenix Strap,這家公司專門替英國軍方製作品質優異的 G10 錶帶,因為品質不是一般 Yahoo 拍賣上 200 元的錶帶能比較的,所以我特別買了 3 個顏色來搭配我的老錶以及軍錶,價格呢?不貴,一條含運費不過才 400 初頭,是很好的一項投資呢!另一家是美國的 Toxic Nato,此錶帶在錶扣以及帆布上所用的心就跟他的名字一樣,非常的毒,買過一次就中毒了,建議各位有空可去逛逛!
焦糖(偏橘)的手工錶帶
焦糖麂皮
原廠所配給的錶帶
軍綠帆布
這回我使用軍綠帆布帶、焦糖皮帶、焦糖麂皮仿舊帶以及阿杜自己跟太空人所購買的黑色 Nato 來試搭 LLD,發現都非常適合!原廠的黑膠帶其實味道就對了,但我們就是喜歡配上不同風味的錶帶來帶出個人風格!
後記
經過這回認真的欣賞這款手錶以及好好的配戴後,發現這枚手錶確實有個魔力,每配戴一次就會有不同的體悟、更會發現它不同細節的美,從一開始所戴上的尺寸衝擊,到習慣後發現的舒適度,再到背蓋印記、面盤黑漆面以及錶冠紋路的設計,這些都是我一點一滴慢慢發現的,如果我剛接觸不久就能漸漸發現這些細節,那錶主是否會隨著相處時間的增加,而慢慢的發掘更多的隱藏細節呢?
Super Compressor : Longines Legend Diver Longines 在古董錶界佔有一席之地是眾所皆知的,以前所生產的經典手錶到現在還是錶迷們所津津樂道的神作,從 40 年代的 30ch、13zn、12.68z 到 60 年代的 Super Compressor 都是拍賣會以及國外古董錶圈子的常客之一。 近幾年,浪琴開啟了復刻的風潮,而其中最成功的例子就是這回阿杜手上的 LLD ,許多人問過我,浪琴值得買嗎?他是 Swatch 集團的誒~So what ?