Well before there was heat, there was hing.
So what was curry like before Columbus? Well, curry didn’t exist.In these cases, I find it useful to consult my Hobson-Jobson, the nineteenth-century dictionary of Anglo-Indian loan words. According to that source, curry comes from the Portuguese word karil (caril) via the Tamil word kari (sauce, relish for rice). In the sixteenth century, this was transliterated into English as caril, but by the 1680s entered English as carrees, perhaps from caris, an Anglicized plural form of the Portuguese.3
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Before spicy came spice: the history of curry before Columbus is a history of spice. And so I wonder: what spices were used? In what quantities?
The best spice to help answer these questions might be asafetida (also spelled asafoetida). Known in Hindi as hīng, it’s the dried resin taken from the root of the Ferula herb, and is used throughout Indian cuisine in nearly all Indian regions. When fried in oil, it adds a lovely umami flavor to any dish, one reminiscent of garlic or onions.










