#marcocerrato

[johnslamson]

One of my favourite associations: cavalry twill and tweed. The two fabrics are designed to withstand the weather but they are classic menswear basics— the middle-ground between hard-wearing essentials and sophisticated textures. @tieyourtiefirenze-blog

[marol1959-blog]

Paris Trunk Show. November 8-9. . We will be back in the City of Lights tomorrow for our regular trunk show, together with Neapolitan bespoke trousers maker, our friend @cerratomarco. . Experience our Zenith Collection, Bruce Boyer Collection, and our fw18 denim and flannel offerings in person. Made-to-measure or bespoke. . Hotel François 1er, 10:30am - 6:30pm. 7 Rue Magellan, Paris. . E-mail [email protected] for appointments. Or follow link in bio. . . #marol #trunkshow #paris #marcocerrato (at Hotel Francois 1er) https://www.instagram.com/p/Bp49YhUnL-v/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=1kmn1js23tpaf

[johnslamson]

Marco Cerrato, trousers made in Napoli

by John Slamson

Whenever sartorial connoisseurs get together, they marvel at lapels and shoulders, at shoes and ties. They dissect padding and patina; wonder at silk and soft tailoring. That’s what sartorial connoisseurs do. And all the while, it is as if the trousers were taken for granted. Well, they are, in a way, since a suit is a two-part unit. But the special craft required to make trousers is quite unique. And they contribute to the general shape of the body in a defining way as their tapering, width, length, pleat, rise and all the variables come into play to create a silhouette.

When we buy ready-to-wear, we accept the cut that was produced with no specific customer in mind. When we order made-to-measure, we expect the trousers to fit our size. But bespoke trousers are completely different. They are designed to fit your body, not your size. They are more comfortable and more stylish. They have a way of dropping down that elongates you.

Marco Cerrato belongs to the great Neapolitan tradition that stems from family ties. A third-generation tailor, Marco started out as a kid, in close proximity to his father who specialised in waistcoats. Tailoring techniques were passed on directly, handed down as a true experience. Which also accounts for Naples still being a hotbed of smart dressers.

Marco defines his house cut as “ice cream cone” trousers, describing the ample shape in the waist that tapers down elegantly for a nice fit that clings to the ankles.

I chose a Caccioppoli cavalry twill in mid- grey. It is the most versatile colour choice, as it can adapt to almost any jacket. It is my fabric of choice for winter as it is more hard-wearing than flannel. The measurements were taken during a trunk show in Paris in June and the first fitting occurred in August. The trousers were already comfortable and very precisely cut. The length, waist and thighs were then adjusted to be perfect. This is the necessary step towards producing a real bespoke piece and relies on the tailor’s eye and experience: the trousers change from all right to just perfect. This level of precision brings a special touch to your trousers as they suddenly become your favourite. The fabric is thick and drapes well; the waistband feels good, both light and supportive.

They have many interesting details. What with side-adjusters, pleats, turn-ups, change pockets, slanted pockets, there are many variations you can bring to trousers. Also, the money pocket is more accessible and more practical than most.

Granted, not everything is hand-finished and some details inside are less than perfect, but

Marco Cerrato’s eye is sharp and he gets the fit right. I was initially of two minds about the trousers: because of some approximate details inside, it dampened my enthusiasm, but then I realised that they were still my go-to trousers, which has to count for something.

I also noticed that I used that piece in combination with many jackets because it never felt over- or under-dressed but always adequately stylish. You could say those trousers are spectacularly sober, to use an oxymoron. As a matter of fact, the art of trouser-making is not about the fancy details — it’s rather the feeling of apposite perfection. And it’s something that is eventually visible in the perfect straight line of the fabric that drops without a glitch.

http://www.sartorialtrips.com/marco-cerrato

[email protected]

[johnslamson]

[johnslamson]

Legendary trouser-maker from Napoli, Marco Cerrato, after a fitting in Paris. 

[marol1959-blog]

Denim con flanella. . Our contrast pinned collar denim shirt paired with pale grey two-pleat flannels by @cerratomarco. . We look forward to greeting you at our upcoming London trunk show at @marksclubmayfair. . E-mail [email protected] for appointments. For bespoke trousers appointments, e-mail [email protected]. . . #marol #marcocerrato #london (at Mayfair)

[marol1959-blog]

Penguins 🐧 with chinos. What else? . Our soft collar, fly-front shirt in printed cotton. Paired with one-pleat cotton garbadine chinos by @cerratomarco. . Discover our new creations in London. @marksclubmayfair March 15-16. . E-mail [email protected] or [email protected] for appointments. . . #marol #marcocerrato #london (at Toronto, Ontario)