#tailoring

[vintagepromotions]

A sewing and tailoring book from Dublin, complete with samples (1833).

[rowzien]

1820s suit I made over last year. The coat in particular was a huge undertaking that lasted several months.

All of these were patterned by me, the coat and trousers from The Tailor's Preceptor by Hadfield.

I made the trousers early in the summer last year and never got around to pictures till now (whoops). They're a cotton I got from Fabric Mart. Mix of hand and machine stitch.

The white waistcoat is a silk shantung and linen I got second hand. Almost entirely stitched by hand (I got lazy on the pocket bags)

During my internship/independent study I studied an original coat from aprox. 1825-1829 in a local museum, took a pattern off of it (counting stitches and all), then altered it to fit me. It was really close circumference wise! Just way too tall. It was entirely hand stitched. I couldn't understate how pleased I am with the whole outfit, but especially the coat, especially in comparison to just how far I've come since my first suit only 4 years prior. The

[imaginal-ai]

"In the Fitting Room" (0001)

[murenger]

[learntherulestobreakthem]

[buttonloops]

You went to a tailor!!! How was it 🙌 what were the considerations?

Hiiiiii!! so I just turned 30, and in preparation for this milestone I have been reflecting on my priorities and going, "dude, you LIVE like this??? you're ALLOWED TO NOT. please. you know you want better."

I currently enjoy a moderate amount of disposable income and no dependents, so 2025 is officially the Year Of Spending Money On Myself.

Being (1) trans (2) in possession of a dumptruck ass, approximately zero of the men's shirts and jackets available in stores fit me. Every single one, from the cheapest to the fanciest, is either too wide in the shoulders or too narrow in the hips. Usually both. The brands targeting butch lesbians are lovely and I am endlessly grateful they exist, but they .... aren't the level of high-quality craft that I yearn for and are often lacking the fine details of high-end menswear.

So.

I booked a consult with a bespoke tailor! I live in a major city, so there are several options downtown, and I picked the one whose vibe I liked best.

Last weekend I rode the train down to the shop, scrutinized many fabric swatches, got measured in great detail, and picked out what features I want for this first order of 3 shirts (button-down collar, how many buttons on the cuffs, pocket or no, etc).

Then the salesgirl emailed me that one of the 3 fabrics I selected is out of stock, so I went back this weekend to scrutinize all the fabric swatches again and decide on a substitute.

In about six weeks I'll go back for a fitting. They'll adjust the pattern based on that and then about two weeks later my 3 shirts will be ready!

For the last few years I have been existing in the tiniest possible sub-micro-capsule wardrobe with zero gradations of formality or comfort or anything. I'm really excited to build up a curated collection of well-made, well-fitting garments that I love and can wear for a long time.

[ghw-archive]

Teddy Girls in 1955 - their subculture centred around a still-bomb-damaged London